Adam Savage's One Day Builds: Micrometer Gauge Box Set!

hey everybody adam savage here in my cave with a  one day build that is a deep dive in to precision   measurement um but in order to even start to  move forward with this build i want to talk about   measurement in general because through kovid i  have come to a a different and deeper appreciation   and sensitivity to finer and finer measurements  i've been using my machine tools my mill   and my lathe i've been uh purchasing and uh  manufacturing upgrades to both of them and in the   deep dive i've done to builds like the samaritan  uh and my uh my little mini chop saw a base it's just like i said i've become much  more highly attuned to precise measurements   uh and it's actually sort of opened up a whole  new portion of my brain is what it feels like um okay let me start at the beginning this tape  measure is obviously where almost all of us begin   measuring things on any kind of  regular basis this is a carpenter's   uh tape it's 30 feet long measured in 16 of  an inch and you know there came a time when   i was learning carpentry and stuff for  a living in the early 90s where i did   get to a point where i wasn't just  measuring to a line but i was measuring to   a side of the line and that felt really really  significant but recognize that each of the lines   on this tape measure is probably in and of  itself probably about 30 000 of an inch wide what is that that's some like eight sheets  of paper give or take um and that when you're   machining stuff on the mill and the lathe and  mechanically making stuff that fits together   30 000 is effectively a disaster you want to be  working in the sub you know like right around   a thousandth or two and then there is a whole  level of machining uh that goes to an order of   magnitude more sensitive than that i am not there  yet i am now i feel like at about the sensitivity   of a thousandth of an inch and in terms of some  of the things that i make in terms of some of   the things that i make um and i wanted to that's  what today's one day build has to do with and so   i just kind of wanted to give you a tour on this  so where do you go from a tape measure in terms   of precision measurement back in 1991 when i was  working for chico mcmurtry at amorphic robot works   um i went down to fox hardware on uh fourth  street and mission there's a third in mission i   think it's fourth admission anyway i went down  to fox hardware there and i purchased myself   a chinese-made micrometer a dial micrometer like  this this is a brown and sharp this is my favorite   micrometer right now i have two of these uh it's  very reliable i beat the hell out of it it comes   back for more it's still quite accurate um a dial  caliper measures in three different ways oh yeah   i've got my close-up camera here a dial caliper  measures in three different ways it measures an   outside diameter it measures an inside diameter  and it measures a depth but it does all of these   generally what you should understand is that  this gets you in the ballpark but that if you   if real true precision like sub 1000 or 1000  or sub precision this is not even actually   the tool you want to use yes it can get you  there and a great machinist a great machine   operator can totally use this in ways that  would surprise uh surprise the craftsperson but you should recognize that these okay let me  talk about why there's limitations to this   if i wanted to measure the wall thickness of this  piece of aluminum that i've cut off from something   um obviously what i want to do is i want to  measure it like that however i've got a problem if   i grab it in the jaws and try and measure its uh  its wall things right now it says it's point one   two four uh inches thick which it kind of makes  sense i don't think oh it might have been pre-butt   pipe huh at any rate it says it's one it says it's  .125 or an eighth of an inch thick but here's the   issue when you look at the inside where the jaw is  the jaw is square and it's not matching the radius   of the pipe which means there's a tiny little  gap between the corners of the jaw and the radius   of the inside of the pipe there are specific  micrometers meant for measuring the wall thickness   of pipes and their internal jaw is a cylinder that  allows it to touch the inside surface for depth   while this is definitely a a reasonable depth  measuring tool for getting again within a few thou   if you really want to check the depth of blind  holes that you're working for manufacturing there   are depth micrometers um i also have an issue  measuring the outside of a pipe like this which is   again pretty straightforward right i'm grabbing  it on both sides however what you really should   be clear about is that even if you like any tiny  movement this way on the side of the micrometer   is going to give me a slightly different  measurement uh so again these dial calipers   will get you really really really close and  your skill can take you the rest of the way but   for larger and larger outside measurements  uh or for more and more precise outside   measurements you need a more precise measuring  tool and that's where this comes in this is a   many of these things are called micrometers this  is frequently called a micrometer it's an outside   micrometer and it is composed of uh this yoke here  these two hardened steel posts uh and a barrel   with some measuring increments on it and it also  has what's called a ratchet stop so what happens   is when you bring this thing to zero so i'm going  to show you that i'm closing its jaws until it   hits zero and when it does it starts to click  that is called a ratchet stop and the clicking   is well here's the question i have for you if you  are screwing down a screw to measure something   how do you make sure you're using the same amount  of pressure every single time with your fingers   you can't that's where the ratchet stop comes  in you use a gentle turn and once it starts to   ratchet you know that you have reached the same  amount of torsion on the barrel every single time   this is a particularly lovely little zero to one  inch micrometer because it's got a digital readout   most of them uh have a combination between  measuring uh straight up measuring marks   and also a vernier scale to get uh below a  thousandth of an inch in terms of the accuracy   um then this like i said this is  specifically for measuring between   zero and one inch uh with an accuracy of one  ten thousandth of an inch zero zero zero one this is a great tool this is a wonderful  tool and so the way you would use this   is you would uh zero zero zero one this is a  great tool this is a the free spinning of this   barrel is super important to the proper running of  these so you bring this over to it and you would tortion it down and it says look at  that exactly half an inch in diameter   it looks like it's half an  inch plus a couple of tenths yeah four tenths um of a thousand but um yeah   okay so that's how these work that's that's that's  how you would use these and because the anvil here   is wider than the jaws on the micrometer on  my dial calipers it's giving a more accurate   measurement because it prevents me from  tilting or twisting the outside micrometer   and giving myself a false reading these all of  these calipers and micrometers can be calibrated   on the micrometer there's a dial uh adjustment  here so i can turn the dial to change zero to   make sure i'm always starting from zero and uh  commensurately on these there's a a pin hole on   the back that allows you using a special tool to  adjust the zero measurement of these micrometers   why am i going into all this detail  about micrometers and calipers   because as i said at the beginning of this  video something has shifted in my brain   and uh for certain kinds of builds and certain  applications i'm really starting to understand   uh both the need and the benefits of precision  and it's caused me to understand the necessity   for a whole new slate of both tools and precise  tools so i've bought a couple of new lathe chucks   that replace some 30 year old lathe chucks i've  been using because they're way more precise   i bought a three jaw chuck recently that out of  the box was 1 000 actually just slightly less than   1 000 total run out whereas my previous one which  is like again 20 or 30 years old it's about 10 000   of run out which means anytime i pull something  out of it and put something back i'm gonna be off   true round by like two or two and a half sheets  of paper um that's that look that's fine if   you're doing a single set of operations on a piece  that you've clamped but if you need to do second   operations it becomes a it becomes problematic  um so i've established that my brain has been   seeing things in finer increments i am gathering  some newer tools and better measuring equipment   and that is what today's one day build is  about because i recently received a brand   new piece of equipment that i am super psyched  about this right here is my newest measuring   instrument uh and it is a beauty this is a  vintage set of mitutoyo calipers just like um just like this caliper except in this box is  the ability to measure everything from zero   to 12 inches with an accuracy of plus  or minus two ten thousandths of an inch look at that look at the beauty of  that hold on check that out oh yeah   okay so what you've got here is zero to one  one to two two to three three to four forty   five four to six five to six etcetera all the  way up to eleven to twelve and i mean just   look at the beauty of these instruments now i  got this on ebay whoever shipped it to me was   less than careful about shipping it and it  arrived with the plywood falling out and all   of these literally tumbling around in this box i  was mortified i thought that i'd received several   hundred dollars worth of worthless pieces of metal  however the other evening i spent about um 90 no   about three hours all told uh sitting at my dining  room table with a uh uh some mineral spirits and   some light machine oil and some q-tips and  wire brushes and i adjusted and calibrated   all 12 of these micrometers and each one  of them spins beautifully and smoothly   uh the action on them even as old as they are is  magnificent and they are all they were all within   one thou of calibration anyway that speaks to what  excellent tools they are but what is the build   what is the build well the build is  that this box needs some tlc it needs   it needs not only some tlc but i see  the need this it not only needs tlc but   i think it needs some more structure for  these these can still move back and forth   like this and i don't like the idea of as  this box is moving of the barrel here being   right this is going to bump into here  that's that's no good i i don't want that so   first things first i'm going to clean up  these tops pull them out clean them up   then i'm going to add a cradle for all  nine of these handles two four six eight   nine yep uh and then i'm gonna add another  set of cradles for these handles uh and then   i've noticed in this box that i've got all of  this empty space right here and also right here so i'm going to add a couple of expansion drawers  to increase the utility of this beautiful case   along the way i'm going to make sure that all  the joints are solid that all the hardware is   up to snuff uh and uh i believe i'll be using  this tool for the rest of my natural life   so i'm going to build a case that can take  care of it for the rest of my natural life   yeah i'm really excited about this i i literally  just stared at this thing for a whole day i find   it so surpassingly lovely and i can't wait to  give it a box commensurate with its awesomeness   so i think the very first thing that i want  to do is i want to measure out and figure   out this cradle that i'm going to make uh how  big it's going to be what the distance between   each micrometer is because i'm not sure it's  perfectly consistent uh what size hole i'm   going to drill to get it all to work and then i  can pull all of these micrometers out of the box   and start to work on the box itself i'm also  going to add some bracing up here that holds   on to this uh and i am going to be making  one new tool today to support the use of the   micrometers and it's called a micrometer stand  but we'll get to that after i've done uh after   i've after i've done a few things okay um let's  see i need a piece of paper need a piece of paper and give it chamfered sides maybe a little  corner there but this distance is eleven one half   inches um the overall height of the thing i  think is going to be three quarters of an inch okay and then there's going to be nine nine  not bad okay so the diameter of each of these   three quarters of an inch is too tight i think  it's more like no three quarters of an inch is   too tight uh one inch i think is actually too  big so uh i'm pretty sure i have a seven eighths and the distance between each of  these things and they'll have a   there'll be a center pivot and  i'll go off of that one i think   but the distance between these is it really  regular actually it probably is really regular   you know what i don't think these marks have been   perfectly made so i think  i'm gonna actually have to um i think i'm gonna actually have to measure this so  let's see here's the way i kind of want to do it there we go okay so here oh actually you know  what i'm gonna end up using this as my as my cradle and then there's the question of what  is the distance at the bottom of these   sit yeah i think that is actually so i think  um see how do i measure how do i measure that   yeah that's about exactly right  so this is 0.33 inches and so   that's going to be this distance right  here 0.33 inches and what we can do is   we can measure 0.33 here and we  can do that special trick i love yeah great so this each one of these right here   describes the bottom of one of my 7 8 cradles  which will hold on to the barrels of one of my   micrometers that's the barrel right there would  fit right in that slot i'm gonna need to this   whole thing needs a little bit of readjustment  so i'm gonna worry about those a little later   all right so i'm gonna be drilling 11 holes  here across this and i want their um i want   the relationship between the forstner bit and  the piece of plywood to be really consistent   so i'm going to clamp in a second piece of plywood  back here as i ray take this piece here and   the nice thing about setting up this backstop  on my drill press to create a solid relationship   between the forstner bit and this piece of  plywood is that as i move this down it is always   going to be drilling the hole at the exact same  distance from this back end because of this fence   so now i need this back end because of this fence   um so so now all i need to do is line  up the center of the forstner bit   with the with that line i've drawn uh and i've got  a piece of wood underneath as the sacrificial lamb   uh to keep from hitting the forstner bit  into the table okay i was just making sure   my drill press table was tied down that's an easy  mistake to make i make it all the time actually i saw a little bit of a slip in the forstner  bit there i'm just gonna give it a tighten   and we're gonna move it to the next one uh occasionally when you drill through the  bottom with a forstner bit you'll end up with   a disc of wood at the bottom of the  bit which will prevent it from actually   entering the next hole so this is something  you have to guard against also don't prevent   it from actually entering the next hole  so this is something you have to guard   against also it don't appear to have been  a little lacks in my drilling all the way all right so now i have one two three four  five six seven eight nine beautiful holes and   what i will then do is cut this on the band  saw to make my actual uh my actual cradle now what you might notice here is that i've cut to  above each of my lines that is because i'm going   to achieve flatness on this using a sander so  in using this disk sander i'm very careful about   making sure that the table is square here to the  platen that the sandpaper sticks to that's really   important because i'm often bringing things  up heat up to this and squareness is what i'm   expecting and thus squareness is what i adjust for  but recently i was actually using uh a combination   square here in this track and i was doing this  operation and that is when i discovered that   this line isn't square to the platen and in the  like eight years i've owned this machine i have   never realized that actually it's been ten ten and  a half years since i bought this so yesterday i   uh this thing sits on a big four inch three inch  column um the arrangement that the motor sits on   sits on the top of this yoke that tightens down  i loosened it up and hammered it and got it   perfectly square but again i spent all this time  assuming that the relationship here was parallel   and that assumption was based on nothing except an  expectation that i had never checked and when it   was mission critical it boned me um that's been  you know part of the journey of owning tools is   realizing the ways in which they can and can't  serve you in the ways in which your expectations   about them can actually lead you into trouble uh  i definitely got into trouble i had to remake a   part because i boned it because these two things  weren't parallel so make no assumptions or you   make an ass out of you and option uh all right  uh this is good it is square all the way around   i'm um gonna figure out the chamfer cut  and then i'm gonna line it in some felt and   get it attached to the yeah well i'm gonna  start the attachment process there we go   okay look at that lovely lovely so much more  positive everyone's so much happier having a   secure and safe place they can live yeah i really  don't think these were super square fascinating   um that is awesome i really like that so i think  that's where this is gonna live it's gonna live   so here's where the depth uh measurement on a  micro on a caliper is really great measure the   depth there lock it and double check it great and  then i'm gonna also measure it here and damn i'm right on the money so that one's mark okay now it's time to deal with  the amount of space we have in here   this is totally trashed and i want to clean  that up i want to replace do i want to replace   the felt here maybe i don't even have to but i  definitely want to add some felt here to this one   uh to put it in and then this guy all right this  guy's got that business and that business and okay pull this out this is some  work i did over the weekend   um and these guys i've just got to pull  this all the way up this is the support   here for the three smallest micrometers and um  they gotta go they gotta go they got to go i'm   also gonna put some rubber feet on this and that  may be the very first thing i do simply because it'll make it easier to move around and  it doesn't have rubber feet and then nice okay now i uh let's just start taking  this thing apart i'm gonna pull the lid off   and pull the hardware off this  piece of hardware's broken oh flathead screws solid slotted sorry i see now that i probably should have  done the base of the hinges first hey okay so good good   good oh what is this box this box lives  in this box but we'll cover this box later okay let's let's clean this up and  commensurately clean this up and then we'll deal well uh i've taken all the hardware off and i  put it into these this sorting container i have   um and i am now going to pour some uh   rust remover all over this i'm going to clean  this all up i'm not going to make everything   super pristine but i do want to get rid  of some of that rust so i covered this uh non-toxic uh rust remover a few weeks ago i  really like this stuff because it's reusable and   non-toxic it doesn't dry out your skin uh so i'm  just gonna leave all these things soaking in this   today and then hopefully by the end of the day  i'll have uh removed enough yeah uh and the sorter   is really nice because it's got three compartments  so i can keep all the self same screws and stuff   together um i'll probably hit this all with a wire  wheel or something like that once i'm finished   but we will see uh i may repaint the side handles  or i may remove all the paint from them entirely   i still haven't decided okay so uh one thing  that happened was i lost my mark for where   this thing lives uh however it's actually  pretty straightforward that it's gonna live   all right okay i guess i gotta put some of  these things back in here just test them out i think technically i only need the front two in  the back two because once they align they align   yeah great all right so now i'm kind of inclined  to not have these rest on the knurling but   actually to rest on the on the the barrel i think  that's is that better or is that worse i mean you don't actually i think the mural is better   again within like a very very i  mean it was pretty much right on uh i think we're gonna glue this in and then  i'm going to nail it again this is not a real   structural join excellent i'm so excited  about this build i really am i'm gonna go   now over here on this one i need the ability to  hold on to these three calipers yeah i need to   hold onto these three calipers from the underside  here okay so i definitely want a cradle i want   three little cradles that's what i need i need  three little cradles oh wait a minute i have them look at that i have the offcuts these these  are the offcuts of the other side of that   cradle over there and i can use these i can yep  yep i'm gonna make this a very shallow cradle now i need to know where these cradles go  so i need that all right uh so for this one   cradle lives here and this is to uh and three all right let's um glue those in formerly the structure for these was part of  the box and built down to the bottom i want   that room so i'm actually going to make uh  three little cradles for these as well so uh the first thing is this okay so the first cradle is this cradle  oh okay i can do this one from the other   side because i've got this uh oh god  i can get rid of that that's great oh yeah you are out of there i will  replace you with something prettier   i'm i'm so psyched with how this box is going  to look when we're all done i'll just clamp this in like that and then i can use it for tracing okay now we're going to clamp this  in above that and go for number two and numero tua yes name the reference spiro is the name of the waiter  oh whoops i'm in my own way   getting out of your own way title of  my self-help book uh okay here we go that looks great so here are my three shapes that's  number one uh so these will sit   underneath the calipers number one number two  and number three i'm gonna cut these all out on   the band so i'm gonna make a little bit finer  marks on these and then uh yeah trim them out um i'm going to attach some felt i'm doing cooking at home kind of thing today  where i'm putting all the tools away as i use them   uh i don't always do that and  frankly it's a problem because uh   i end up with stuff all over the place as  soon as this is done with the bottom then   i'm going to stain this and this and start  to think about putting them back in there   yeah i'm using hot glue to attach the felt  to these little runners here and that's um it's fine the porosity of  the wood and the felt means   the hot glue is a completely fine nearly permanent   solution to getting the felt on here i wouldn't  use it for wide swaths of felt but for this is so yeah i mean you put hot glue on metal it's just  gonna slowly work itself away from it over time   but you put it on wood and those two those  two are gonna want to remain friends forever   um for reels it's not the neatest gluing job but  it's good enough because you're never going to   actually see it it's going to be all underneath  so there's one here comes the second one two yeah now it's time to  use this attachment this will   again use some crazy glue but then also  some tacks so uh let's get the bottom one in   test fit here ah that's great i love  it can't really go anywhere that's wonderful i'm actually so i guess in doing this  by like using crazy glue using ca glue and uh   tacks i'm kind of using the crazy  glue the ca glue as a clamp really uh   oh let's double check that one that's  also great wonderful and then this guy now what i want to do is go in with the nailer   and secure these nice no blow throughs  at same thing here again i'm gonna clear   my hands of the excellent no blow throughs  whatsoever and now that is comfortingly secure so got my little guide piece here which should allow  me to hold these things nicely so that they'll sit   one two and three yeah see that that's what i'm  looking for that's what i wanted that's great   i can now move these away and i can mark this  and actually start staining this whole thing   i really like the old chestnut i love this little  chestnut uh specifically chestnut i like this   wood stain i like how warm it is i think this is  what i'm gonna use oh right i gotta mix this up that's i'm very happy with  all that that looks great i'm just being thorough now i have one little  misalignment which is in the box the box this   is uh actually a little too close so  i need to open it up just a little bit now create these little i need to create  three little notches here i'm gonna use a   jigsaw here because i'm kind of going  through some of the yeah i've got a metal   blade on the jigsaw and that helps because  i'm gonna go through some of the staples   nice all right it is a moment of  truth to do some preliminary assembly   uh so that i can figure out these  drawers here uh but first and foremost   this business put this guy in again  even on the top of the stain this um   the ca glue really nice positive join  and we're gonna add i'm gonna try hey that worked try another one i think that also worked let's try one more  get my hand away from there there we go it's not going anywhere and that looks good   terrific so here's where these guys now live  and then this guy lives in the middle here so now the question is how big  is the drawer i get to make   we're going to cover this face with tape so that  i can mark it and then do some cutting and then   let's pull this out do some  final finishing on this thing the height is here i'll mark that  here on this front as long as it's   yeah because that's that high  it looks like i can come in   a specific amount from each side and so i shall  and i think oh right i want to clear the dovetails   and i want to clear the dovetails by a  little bit sorry finger joints not dovetails   um what if we go to exactly one inch in i think  that's a totally reasonable thing to do so you   know i'm just like gathering i'm i'm lining up  these measurements as i come to each one of them   i'm i'm still trying to figure out the overall  shape of this guy um and i'm just creeping up on   it i don't know all the answers but each time i  know what kind of answer i want i'm going for it all right uh so i i needed two 12-inch  drawer slides to make these drawers   and i just throw it over to our local  hardware store that's five minutes away   and they only have 14 and above which is annoying  so my assistant's heading over to center hardware   to pick me up some 12 inch drawer slides in the  meantime what i've got to do is figure out the   yeah the leftmost extent of this one  which is probably like there uh and   start cutting out these drawers so i'm  gonna do that while we're getting some slides this one can go all the way back  because these are all on the line   this one can't quite because these are in  the way but oh look at that okay cool so   hmm got these two seven inch slides which  actually will work really great here so   the question is how far back does the store go  and it's not that far so yeah i think that's it   one drawer two drawers come all the  way to the bottom no i don't want it   to come all the way to the bottom i  wanted to come like half an inch up so now your question i'm sure is how the heck are  you gonna cut into there and the answer is coming   here is how i plan to do this  it's uh it's gonna be tricky and   it's gonna be tricky but we're gonna do it let's see here yeah it's just this is just  gonna be methodical and slow and i'm gonna   do each one as it comes um i switched out the  tightening knob to the bottom so that i could um   not have stuff in my way up here as i'm  trying to design so i have eight lines to cut there we go all right one cut down now normally i do this on a jigsaw because i  like doing the breakthrough cut on a jigsaw   but i want a really thin curve on this i want to  remove as little material as possible because i'm   going to use the wood that i'm cutting  out as the drawer fronts for my drawers   that's why i'm taking such care on this cut   normally i wouldn't care so much but the mod i  want to make is to i want to add a sh i want to   add these drawers but i don't want to change  the look of this box i want to hold on to its beautiful aesthetic there we go this wood is so old and dry i can actually cut   using this this saw i'm using is a japanese  saw it's a flush cut saw and it's meant to cut it is meant to cut on the pull but the wood  is so old and soft i can cut out a push   in this phase all i'm doing  is just sort of scraping out   the bottom of this very thin curved channel  i've made with the saw and i'm just waiting to   kind of break through i'm trying to avoid that  so i don't chip my teeth on that i am through okay last vertical cut is in i think i  might be able to do these two cuts at once that was tough i got some work to do to  clean all this up but there's my two drawers okay so now the next step is to build the drawers um yeah the next step is to build the drawers into  here uh i need to square up the sides of these   i'll just square them all up and make them look  pretty good my oh oh okay so that's problematic   this piece of wood just split on me the old  versions of these boxes were made out of um sorry the newer versions of these boxes  are made out of plywood but these old ones   i'm going to hit that with some crazy glue it'll   eventually be glued to a drawer front so  i'm not that concerned about it um yeah wonderful yeah i'm always nervous about my  tolerances my back yeah but i don't need to   be that's totally great okay so i've  got some drawer slides here let's see because now it's time to decide upon  the the size of these uh drawers okay so let's go down to about there oh it's all going to be the 7 inchers i think great and i will endeavor to build the  drawers not building these with floating   bottoms because i need them mounted on  the bottom of the door slots uh okay so beauty one drawer down uh nice okay one drawer is good i love it  and the other drawer is getting its slides okay uh i think i can pull all of these and i'm  actually almost ready for final assembly i mean   it's gonna take about an hour and a half  for final assembly but we're almost there let's see let's see how quickly  we can get all this done so yous can uh witness what i'm doing  here all right here's what i'm gonna do uh   let's see um right first things foremost you're  gonna put in these little stuffy stops which   will just stop the back of the it'll stop  the drawer front from going past the line huh so so so   well it's the following morning and i am  very very happy with how this is all going   it is time i think to start attaching the oh wait  wait wait okay i have one more thing um this is   the box of standards okay when you i keep saying  okay i'm like joe pesci and lethal weapon two okay   okay okay when you have micrometers like  this um you want to be able to calibrate them   and frequently sets like this come with what is  called standards and that is a set of calibration   rods so picking one up at random this is the five  inch rod and it's meant to calibrate the five inch   the five inch uh caliper and if i hold it in here  and tighten in the calendar caliper yep i'm about   two tenths off of uh zero there and the standards  they travel with the calipers this also is a   box that says mitutoyo it's just gorgeous and it  lives right there look at that right right okay so   uh i don't think this box needs very much i  may add some furniture polish just to kind of   gussy it up but i think the next step for me is  to start to put on the hardware and put on the   hinges and get the lid going i have to get some  padding in the inside of the lid i have to get   some padding on the inside of the lid to come down  and cover over these so they don't move around a   lot and also have some padding on these and you  can see the old marks for where the padding went   i'm going to be replicating that with  some wrap felt wrapped plywood and foam   and then i have a big plan for something that  goes right here that's really exciting and weird uh and then i have uh another plan for the top  of this case and then uh reattaching the hardware   yeah it's a full day it's another full day it's  a two-day build so why did i build the studio i guess that would work okay we'll try that   um we'll try that and then there's these  guys right this is maybe almost the same okay so now i want to wrap these guys in felt do  i okay wait no they're all the right height and i   know that they're all the right height because the  box fits on top what i can see is that these come   within an eighth of an inch of the top and the  box lid goes down and that means with the felt   it should be absolutely perfect so  uh all i need to really do is well i you know what yeah i am going to try it that way  and if i have to cut that back a little bit i will   we're just going to do a quick test i'm going  to do it using a little bit of this double stick sorry the order of operations are  that if i get the size of this wrong   after i've wrapped it and felt then i  have to unwrap it and redo it so i have to   figure out his exact right  persuasion now as opposed to later there we go okay that's where it goes that's awesome and i'm just gonna  mark that so i don't lose it   and if this sits here like this it doesn't seem no it doesn't seem to inhibit it okay great great great do we've been making great progress uh  the lid is finished i've got the um   i've got the padded pieces that are foam and  wood that hold the micrometers in position uh it   grids beautifully on top of everything it's now i  think time for me to start to attach some hardware   excuse me hardware and that means it's also  time to manufacture a couple of things one is   a pair of brass knobs for pulling on these  drawers and then there's one other thing   which i i'm not going to tell you about just  yet because it's another part of this build   we still have a few miles to go before we sleep  uh yeah there's still some still some to go   but it's coming along great i'm i'm having a great  time with this build uh so um what that means is   it's time to look at our hardware and that means  pulling out the hardware we've been soaking in the   rust remover and i'm going to put  on some rubber gloves for this   because yeah these will be messy um i'm excited  uh this rust remover is fantastic all right   i've poured out a bunch of the rust inhibitor  um so the first things i want to attack are   the hinges oh my god look at these  these are brand new that's incredible so   we get the hinges and we have the clasps and one  of these is bent and needs a little bit of love   but oh my gosh these are all  going to look brand spanking new oh yeah this is awesome yeah this uh will include  a link to this rust inhibitor uh i linked to it in   a tool tip a while back and i really like it oh my  gosh they all look brand new this is fabulous just   vigorous wiping with a cloth is removing all of  this black that's great there's these little brass   uh washers that go over these and um one for each  screw and i saved them all i don't want to lose   anything and that's all the corners and edges and  these are all screwed in i may actually toss some   thin crazy glue in the holes each time i do one  of these so that i have a little more gription   on the um on the screws because many of them  were actually like super loose here are all the   little tiny flathead screws and i think i have  them all we will see uh so hinges are up first well the oh i have two more  the hardware's all back   the new hardware is in uh i have  drawer liners yes i have drawer liners   very nice felt drawer liners but now now what i  need is um the ability to open these drawers i   need drawer pulls i uh i didn't have any and i  was going to make some uh drawer pulls so that   i could open these drawers yep oh oh i also have  i also have some little label holders yes these   little label holders which i'll put at the top  of each drawer yeah that'll be really neat um what's funny is after putting all the  hardware back i have like a few extra screws   isn't that funny i mean uh all the  hardware has all the screws in it   i think they came from the fake feet that  or the feet that had worn out in there   okay so uh next thing i'm gonna do is to machine  some drawer pulls out of brass and put these guys   in and then we still have a couple more little  do-dads to uh to install all right so what i'm   gonna do is i'm actually gonna make a couple  of ring pulls so i'm gonna turn a pair of   ring-ish type pieces out of this i'm gonna use my  new 2j collet chuck which i'm very excited about   2j collets are great because they get  very big and they grab very securely yeah foreign there we go okay now i want to uh drill out the middle of that so all right there we go great lovely that is very happy nice turns out  my index finger 7 8. okay second ring   this by the way is a lathe file i  learned about it on this old tony   uh specifically made for not overloading  and being used for lathe and i love it all right let's make the little brass holders  that hold these on my new drawers uh for this   operation i've got some k s brass and  i'm simply going to bend it with a loop   and then two holes on either side but i'm  going to do loop first and i'm going to do it   using these jewelers uh pliers yeah i think i'm  gonna use this ring so it goes like this we'll do yep yeah i like that i like that okay so then okay they're not perfect but they'll do just great   now i want to i want to trim and fix these and  just kind of gussy them up a little bit i'm   going to do that a little bit of belt sander and  then i drill a couple holes all right these are   cleaned up nicely and i'm going to drill some  holes for screws i'm gonna center punch them excellent i know this looks kind of hand-hewn  but to be honest that's actually what i want i want it to feel like a craftsperson has taken   care of it because the craftsperson  has taken care of it the witness marks of the problem-solving are part and parcel of the  biography of this box okay now we can open these   i'm so happy um i have a couple things  i need to do um i need to open that   i'll need to get some grip chain for that um so when you use let's see let's say you're  using a 12 inch mic and you want to use the   12 inch standard actually it's an 11 inch standard  and you want to measure the 11 to 12 inch mic   at the bottom you see the problem i'm running  into here what what this is this is one of   the issues with micrometers like this is that  it's like almost like a three-handed operation   and there's the standard and as i  suspected yeah i'm one thou out but   i haven't calibrated these because i i need a  piece of equipment for this i need a mic stand no   not a microphone stand a micrometer stand um and  i actually have some pieces to put one together   i have the base of an old lamp that  i like i have pieces of a dremel vise   and the dremel vise okay so the dremel vise  this head of the dremel vise this part which   handles the the ball at the bottom of that vise  clamps onto this little uh thing i've remade this   i've remade this out of brass  there you go and it actually fits in an interference fit i made  it about three thousandths over   into there so i'm going to jam that in there and  then i'm going to turn this into my mic stand if i did this all correctly that clamps to this  and also to this okay so loosen yeah it spins   that's great oh it feels just as right oh it's  nice and positive so now here's how this works   i open this up i put my mic in there and now  now i can run the standard i can hold it on   the standard and i can calibrate everything  that is my mic stand my micrometer stand   i had no idea it would go that fast i  thought they'd be a bit more fiddling but   everything else has a home in this box  where will this slip okay well that's   where this next step comes in we're doing  some final assembly standards live here oh my god i'm so ex i just love   i love stuff like this it fills me with such  relaxation delicious delicious feeling so   you're wondering and if you lied where the  hell could a mic stand live inside this box this is so great that's wonderful this is a nice protected home  for these guys so where does the mic stand live   i had this idea yep ah yep that's it see in my  idea a mic stand lives here right see that if i get this right then i  could just put two bolts here that come through   i could i could put one bolt here on  one bolt here and a single nut over here does it clear and that clears so i kind of want to just  drill a hole there a quarter inch hole and i'll mark this one see i'm  just gonna have a countersunk   up there uh i'm gonna do a little slicey  slice here so that i don't pull up the felt except this wing nut i'm going to give  it a washer just to give it some extra   support here because i don't  want it moving around too much oh i'm so happy i am so happy yeah that's great that is really great what's going to live in these drawers you  wonder well some of my other microphones   we are almost there we're almost at the finish  point um you've probably been wondering what i   plan to store in these drawers and the answer is  some of my other micrometers i have a whole bunch   uh and this is what happens when you have machine  tools you end up collecting a lot of everything um   and i don't want them in separate locations so see  i've got a few extras i've got two of these sentex   digitals kind of mechanical digitals and then i've  got this one to two i can live there oh i've got a   depth micrometer i didn't even know that okay that  lifts there um we'll also keep the wrenches there   because i like having everything in a single  location all the wrenches all the wrenches   ah that needs work that's the original one  zero to one inch that came with this but   it's still really rough i still need to work on  that okay i'm actually going to keep that in there excellent and these are all vernier gauges i  don't really think they're more like yeah i   think i picked these up at garage sales and stuff  before i even knew what the hell this pepper's for   ah and a two to three i'll put that in there too   and now my micrometers all have a  good specific point one more thing i know i'm steve jobs uh i have one more thing  which is the one more thing is that i want to   label these guys uh they are labeled down here  as to which one they are but the labels have   long since worn away uh from excessive use when  i when i first got these they were super dirty   i spent a lot of time cleaning them up i think  i said that at the beginning of this i'd like   to put a little little label on all of these  necks so that i could see which one goes where   at a glance and i the only white marker i  have are these uh these i've talked about   these before these are the uh kugels correction  pen i love these things but they're not thin and   so i reached out to sarah parke uh you would know  sarah as the space archaeologist uh her twitter   handles indie from space sarah is literally a  space archaeologist uh she uses technology and   her own brilliance and crowdsourcing loveliness to  find heretofore unfound um archaeological digs and   for her bonafides uh you know how the whole  indiana jones movie is about finding tennis   sarah found tanis yeah okay so i reached  out to sarah and i was like sarah   what do archaeologists label their stuff  with because i know that it's like a nice   fine paint pen and it's not a  sharpie i don't think it's a sharpie   i don't think it's alcohol based what  what do they use and she said they use staedtler pens staedtler pens so i bought a set  now these are rapidographs um oh we're going to   get into it i'm going to open these up um but  because i don't want to label these dark i want   it to be seen right because i like my i like  my i like my white out labels here that you can   see from across the room um so i bought some  white ink for these staedtler pens and we're   gonna see if i can't make some labels in light  colored ink that will be the finish of this guy   all right so um what is a rapidograph  or a pitograph is a type of drafting pen it's a type of drafting pen that's meant to  feed ink out towards where you need the ink old drafting pens used a capillary action and  some very finely sharpened points like an oh   like a kind of a metal version of a quill pen to  bring ink out so you could do fine drafting where   pedographs do this by using it's actually like um  it's like this okay so uh the tip of our pitograph   here is the ink this is the inkwell and  it connects up to the body of the pen uh and comes out a very fine point now this is the   tip of the pen this is where  the ink comes out but in here is this little carrier with a tiny  little hair coming out of it and as you   as you draw that hair helps capillary  the ink out of the tip but also um   it helps keep that tick unclogged um i know about  rapidographs because uh they are the pens used by   animators to draw black lines on clear acetate  uh since time immemorial and my father was an   animator and so i grew up with rapidographs i grew  up cleaning my my dad's pedographs for him uh they   come in many different thicknesses i'm gonna  try the thickest one and see if it works here   um that's an o25 that's an oh seven oh three five  i bet that's an o5 yeah okay so i'm going to try   the 07 which has got a pretty yeah so you can see  its face it's tipped you can see his tip there and   yeah you can see now you probably can't in this  camera but there's a little tiny hole up there   um and the ink just goes in  here you just fill this with ink   hey that sound i'll actually i think i can even  pull this out and show it to you let me see here   one of these isn't one of these  a wrench on the bottom of the pen   is a wrench with which to remove the tip  and when the tip comes out you'll see oh right sorry i forgot there's  this little capper on the back and there you can see there's that tiny hair  i was talking about that tiny little wire   and that wire helps both keep this clean and  it helps capillary the ink out to the front   and so then you put this back tighten it up with  the back of the pen so now we're going to fill   this ink reservoir with white ink and see if i  can't make some nice archaeologist level marks   on my micrometers i'm really excited about this  i really really really really really really want   this to work oh look at that they've got these  like staging zones for your prints this is awesome there's my white ink put the other two   all right now that goes in here and then that  goes in the pen body i should be able to draw   right on the leather here so that the shaking it  back and forth is helping bring the ink to the tip oh oh it's not quite flowing but  it's early days yet all right it is   actually working let me see if i can do  a micrometer this is a three to four okay   i will label them by their  high end mark so this is four hey that's totally working i love it   look at that okay we're breaking out the whole  set we're gonna we're actually gonna do them all   do   i'm going back over some of  these once they're dry to kind of   get a little more visibility out  of them and it's working great this white ink is not as thin or free-flowing  as black ink that's for sure it's pretty good   ah there it works beautifully i'm gonna  label both sides of each one of these   oh no i guess i could just label  that side okay this is a 4-2-5   um i will clean that pen out because you don't  want to leave a repetitograph with ink in it   indefinitely um no i can't really take this ink  and put it in the rapidograph i think it might   it could even easily mess it totally up  but here we go i'm gonna give this my name there she is savage micrometer set 0 to 12 inches i don't feel like i quite deserve  this set just yet i gotta open it   that no time better than the  present for doing such a thing um thank you for joining me for this very precise that's it thank you for joining me  for this very precise one day build i found it thrilling i hope you  found it as exciting as i did   uh and i will see you guys next time you so thank you for watching that entire video  if you'd like to support us further you   can head over to the tested store links are in  the comments below and you can buy things like   our demerit badges you've heard of merit badges  these are the opposite this one here is for   measuring once and cutting twice we went back  and forth whether to measure once and curse twice   because that also happens we went with the cut  twice and this is one of my all-time favorites   this is when you accidentally release  the mysterious blue smoke that makes   all electronics work and then they no longer  work you can't release that smoke head over   to our store get yourself some demerit  batches and we will see you next time

Channel: Adam Savage’s Tested

Views: 2,002,929

Keywords: adam savage, adam savage tested, one day builds, one day build adam savage, one day build box, adam savage box, adam savage one day build, adam savage one day build box, micrometer, precision measurement tools, precision measurement using mechanical devices, adam savage builds, adam savage builds a box, tested one day builds, adam savage shop infrastructure, adam savage shop storage, micrometer box, adam savage tools, repairing tool box, tool box restoration, micrometer gauge

Id: 5NH1-3NBcOk

Length: 88min 31sec (5311 seconds)

Published: Sat Feb 27 2021