ABUSED Z06 CORVETTE NO START NO CLUTCH PART 3 OF 3

hey guys what's up it's eric with advanced level automotive just getting to work early this morning had a dream last night nightmare i was working on this white corvette man this thing had like a burnt up wiring harness rusted up long tube headers oil leaks everywhere just thinking about it scares me man [Music] anyways hey guys what's up welcome back to the channel if you couldn't already tell by the title of the video this is part two of putting the wiring harness in the abused corvette now before we start today's video if you haven't already watched part one make sure you go back and do that and if you're new to the channel make sure you subscribe so if you guys watch part one you know that the last place we left off we got the harness out of the vehicle and we got the long tube headers out today our plan is to repair the wiring harness wrap the headers and try to get it all back together so anyways without further ado let's go ahead and get started all right guys so we're going to start by wrapping the headers if you look over here what i have is just a roll of fiberglass header wrap and i've already pre-soaked this so you can see i soaked it in water it's ready for installation and what we're using are these stainless steel locking ties if you look right here these are the stainless steel locking ties that you want to use for this wrap and what we're going to do is we're going to do a partial wrap of the headers i'm not going to do a full wrap i'm not going to attempt to wrap each of these tubes we're basically going to do a wrap from right over here to right over here and the reason for that well there's a couple reasons number one because we're on a budget this guy is on a budget he's trying to save money wherever he can so for me to have to try to wrap these things individually it's going to take more time it's going to cost more money second and this is a real big reason that we're only going to partially wrap these headers is because if you guys couldn't tell these headers are pretty rusted now the thing about rusted headers is that that's really an indication of the quality of the steel that's used because typically with a good set of expensive headers that are stainless steel they're not going to rust out like this these headers are probably cheap ebay headers and so they've already begun to rust now if we wrap these completely they're going to be a lot more prone to rusting out because the insulation when it gets wet it's going to hold water and if these pipes are already starting to rust just imagine whenever you have this thing fully insulated and the insulation gets wet it's going to trap the moisture between the insulation and these pipes and it's going to cause these things to rust out because you got to remember this header wrap insulation is not waterproof it's going to allow water to penetrate through the fabric and that water is going to sit between the insulation and the tube and that's guaranteed to cause rust problems with these headers so with that being said let's go ahead and get started now this header is off of the driver's side and this is the one that had the oxygen sensor installed and again we're going to have to replace this oxygen sensor because you can see the harness and the connector was completely burned up so well actually check this out the oxygen sensor is not even bolted in tightly it's only in there hand tight take a look at that you can already tell that this thing's been getting water intrusion and it's already starting to rust out so now looking over at these headers you can tell where all of the plastic wiring harness was melting on this uh on these tubes right here let me get some of these crusties out of here oh hey i think i found another socket let me get my magnet in here [Music] there's a bolt in here and there's a socket it's a 10 millimeter socket whoa man this thing's just full of surprises huh let's see if i can get that bolt out of there there we go found a bolt anyway so let's try to scrape off as much of this burnt up plastic that we can get [Music] i'm not too concerned with it i just don't want it to be smelling like burned plastic so i'm gonna try to get as much of this stuff off that i can [Music] and that should be good okay guys like i said the goal is to wrap from about here at the bend of the pipes to right about here right past the oxygen sensor and again we're insulating this because we want to keep this heat from damaging the wiring harness that runs through this area here so let's go ahead and get started now the rule of thumb when you're wrapping is you want to have about a quarter inch of overlay and of course in the bended areas you just want to try to get as close as possible so make sure that when you're wrapping it you want to pull it tight [Music] now we're going to go ahead and end it off right here it's going to slice it okay guys so now that we have the wrap where we want it we're going to go ahead and install this steel tie let's get it on there hand tight now we're going to snip this leave about an inch or so then we're going to take a pair of uh angled needle nose pliers and we're going to grab it from right about there and give it a good twist once we have that first bend we're going to go ahead and flatten that out then we're going to do the same thing again we're going to grab it from here and we're going to twist it pulling this thing tight pinch off that end and now this thing is firmly secured all right guys so our wrap for this side is complete again we're not looking for perfection here this is not a race car application we're just trying to protect the wiring harness the wiring harness runs through this area here we just want to prevent the heat that's coming from this header from ruining the harness so now that we got this one done let's go ahead and do the other side all right so here we have the wiring harness now before we can install this into the vehicle there's a few things we have to do number one we're gonna have to install this connector to the harness which is the main connector that goes uh near the engine computer i've already gone ahead and cut the other one off and i peeled back this uh tubing so that i can gain access to the wires and the same thing on the harness here so we have the wires exposed we're going to need to solder these together that's the first step and there's a few other connectors the oxygen sensor connector and a couple of other things so let's go ahead and get started [Music] [Music] okay guys i know you just watched that in time lapse so it didn't seem like a long time but uh let me tell you this took a lot longer than i thought it was going to take i think i might have underestimated how many wires were actually in this harness so soldering them together might not have been the best approach because right now my lower back is really killing me but uh yeah anyways i probably should have just used some insulated butt connectors there's probably a good like 20 wires in this harness so anyways just took me a little longer than i expected but uh we got this done let me go ahead and tape this back together put the wire loom on it and uh change a couple of the other connectors and we'll get ready for installation [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] all right so we have the wiring harness prepared and ready to go back into the vehicle uh but before we can install it we're gonna need to do something about this wiring harness here because if you guys recall this is actually a separate wiring harness from the one we're replacing so this thing we don't have time to find another wiring harness and looking at this i think we can actually just repair it because if we peel back some of this corrugated tube we can see that we do have the wire colors and if we look in here looks like there's only four wires which is not too uh not too bad and we can see the colors of the individual wires you know before they turn into this burnt up crustiness and the other end of the harness is up on this side let's see if we can get a visual of it move this out of the way so if we follow this up you can see the other part of the wiring harness up here it's kind of jammed in between the uh transmission bell housing and the firewall but if you look in there we can see some wire colors so i guess what i'm going to try to do is i'm going to cut this section of wire out here and we're going to uh wire this back together just matching up the colors so yeah let's go ahead and get started all right so we're going to start by chopping off this end of the wiring harness like that and let's see if we can pull this through i think i can actually pull this harness out of the side here just like that this thing's pretty badly burned but i think we can salvage it let's open up this harness the wire's kind of melted to the plastic here so we're gonna have to just cut it right here like that and see if we can expose our wiring there we go okay so here's our other four wires so now what i'm going to do is i'm going to use some 16 gauge wire because that's what this wire looks like it's size to so we got some 16 gauge wire here and we are going to use this wire to reattach this wiring harness so let's get started [Music] [Applause] [Music] okay guys so one of the issues i'm running into is that this wiring harness here on this end no matter how many times i try to peel back the insulation or strip the wire this wire is so dry rotted that every time i try to attempt to strip it it actually just breaks off so i think what i'm going to have to do is i'm going to have to cut the wiring harness over here closer toward the front away from where the exhaust manifold was and start the rewiring from there because it looks like pretty much all of the wiring that was running uh near the exhaust manifold is pretty much all dry rotted so i can't even strip this wire i've tried several different wire strippers that i have and none of them seem to work the wire just breaks off so yeah anyways that's why i pulled the harness through right here i'm gonna have to cut it somewhere here toward the front hopefully we can find some good fresh wire and then we'll start the harness from over here and reattach it up there [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Music] okay so we now have the wiring harness reattached and what i went ahead and i did was not only did it i wrap it in electrical tape i also put a new corrugated tube of insulation over the wiring harness and as you can see i used a tie strap we're gonna be strapping this up against the frame here and hopefully we can keep this away from the exhaust manifold and uh the insulation here along with the header wrap or the insulation on the headers will prevent the heat from damaging the wiring so let's go ahead and move on to the next step now it's time for the wiring harness to go in [Music] now it's time to reinstall the computer [Music] all right so moving back underneath the vehicle now over here on the driver's side before i install the header i think what i'm going to go ahead and do is install the clutch pedal and the master cylinder because we are going to have to bleed this clutch pedal and in order to bleed the clutch pedal if you've ever worked on one of these corvettes the bleeder screw for the clutch is located up here above the bell housing let me try to show you where it's located i have this little screwdriver to kind of point out the bleeder screw and it's way up in there that little silver piece up there that's the nut for the bleeder screw so i'm pretty sure that once i put the long tube header on there i'm not going to have any room to reach my hand in there to uh open up the bleeder screw so i think it's a probably a good idea for us to move over to installing the clutch so that we can have the clutch working before we put the long tube header on now the other thing i wanted to do was i wanted to go ahead and remove the starter motor and the reason i want to do that is because this vehicle is a no start now we really haven't diagnosed the no start issue we just are replacing the wiring harness as step one what i don't want to happen is for us to put everything back together only to find out that it's a faulty starter and the thing about the starter is if you remember it's buried underneath that long tube header so i don't want to put the header on put the vehicle back together only to find out that the starter is bad for me to have to pull the header back off so i'm gonna go ahead and pull the starter motor off well i actually already did i have it over there on the bench and we're gonna go ahead and test it so let's go ahead and get started all right guys so over here on the table we have the starter motor out of the vehicle and what i have is my jump pack hooked up so we have the positive lead over here this is connected to the b plus terminal on the back of the starter solenoid and then we have the ground terminal here which is hooked up to the body of the starter what i have here is a little jumper wire and this is also attached to the battery positive what i'm going to do is i'm going to touch this to the switching post of the starter solenoid so when i touch this we should hear the starter engage if you watch over here you'll see the gear shoot out and it should spin so as long as the starter motor is working the gear should shoot out and it should spin so i'm going to go ahead and touch it one more time one more time one more time as you can see the starter motor is working it's in good condition let's go ahead and get it put back into the vehicle and let's get started putting the clutch pedal in okay guys so moving over to the driver's side i went ahead and i took the wheel off and there's a little plastic cover that goes right here when you remove that plastic cover it gives you access to the clutch master cylinder which is located right up here and if you guys take a look at it i'm pretty sure my theory was correct in saying that the reason this master cylinder ended up bending the rod was because i don't think it was installed correctly so if you look over here where the uh kind of nut piece is on the front of the master cylinder you're supposed to push it into the bracket and turn it clockwise to lock it into place i don't think it was locked into place properly and so you can see where it actually came out let me zoom in on that you guys can see a little bit more detail yeah you can see that the clutch master cylinder is not fully engaged into the bracket and it almost looks like you can tell where these scrape marks are it looks like that's where it finally gave way and it came out so i'm thinking that's what happened this wasn't installed properly and it finally slipped out and whenever somebody went to go push the pedal and they pushed it hard enough this thing jammed up against the bracket ended up bending the rod and cracking the bracket so anyways let's go ahead and remove this thing there's a little pin right here that we're going to need to drive out using a punch and that's going to remove this line right here and then we'll be able to pull this out so let's go ahead and do that all right guys so i'm underneath the dash and uh getting ready to pull this clutch pedal out there really isn't a whole lot of room down here for me to film so i'm not even gonna try uh i'm almost done getting the last bolt out and i'm just gonna pull this pedal assembly out i'm sorry if i really can't film it but man it's a really tight spot down here and my back is starting to hurt so let me go ahead and hurry up and get this thing out all right so i've got this thing unbolted i'm gonna try to get this thing out oh man again a really tight spot there we go got it out all right so over here on the table we have the old clutch pedal and the bracket out of the vehicle and as you can see it's got a big old crack in it and it's in pretty bad shape so this is going to get replaced with this unit it is a used unit but it's in pretty good shape so we're going to go ahead and replace it with this we have the old clutch master cylinder that we took out of the vehicle and as you can see this rod is completely bent so we're going to replace it with this unit that came with this so you can see the rod is straight it's in good shape so yeah let's go ahead and get this thing back into the vehicle all right guys so i've got the clutch pedal bracket installed that was not easy to do i'm sorry i was not able to film that um my back is really killing me but yeah i got that thing in now it's time to put the master cylinder in all right so moving back to the driver's side wheel well again i've got the clutch master cylinder this is the new one that's going in i'm gonna slide the rod through the hole hopefully you guys can see that i'm just gonna try to jimmy this thing in there whoop that wasn't supposed to come down let me just kind of shove that up there i'm going to try to get the master cylinder into the hole and then we're going to do is we're going to push it into the bracket let me try to get a good position with the camera angle here all right so i'm going to go ahead and uh push the master cylinder into the hole let me find the correct spot right there it's fitting flush now i'm going to turn it clockwise to lock it into place make sure it's fully seated now it's time to connect the clutch line then we're going to go inside the vehicle then we're going to connect the rod and then we're going to bleed the system okay guys so we now have the clutch master cylinder rod connected try to give you a visual right up there as you can see i'm going to go ahead and push the clutch pedal and now we're nice and straight no binding up so we're ready to bleed this thing [Music] all right guys let me apologize if i'm jumping ahead here uh so i got the clutch pedal installed and the clutch master cylinder installed i was able to bleed the system i wasn't able to catch it on camera because honestly i had trouble trying to get someone to come and help me bleed the system again i work by myself so i needed a second person to get inside the vehicle it was hard enough trying to get a person to come through and the person that i did have they only had a few minutes to spare so they came through i was able to bleed the system i just wasn't able to catch it on camera so anyways we got the clutch bled the clutch pedal feels great um i already showed you guys that i installed the header on the passenger side and uh let me show you guys so again we have the header here and you can see it's nicely wrapped i really like the way this came out and as you can see i was able to suspend the wiring and the clip for the oxygen sensor as you can see it's attached to the frame there nice and clear away from the heat of the header or at least a direct key from the header so anyways i got this side installed and i know i didn't catch it on camera but i also got the other side installed so um if you look over here we have this header again i'm real happy with the way this came out because um i was able to suspend the wiring hopefully i can focus in on that it's really hard to see so i was able to suspend the wiring and make sure it was clear and away from the direct contact of the header and where the wiring travels it's right where the installation of the header wrap is at so i think that's going to do a real good job of keeping the heat from destroying that wiring harness that we repaired also we put some extra insulation on those wires so i think we should be good to go next up we're going to go ahead and uh drop the vehicle move up to the top of the engine and start installing the intake manifold now before we can even think about putting the intake manifold back on we're going to need to vacuum the top end of the engine [Music] [Music] all right guys moving to the top of the engine i've already got the uh surface prepped for the intake manifold so you can see we did a nice light scuffing and uh made sure to vacuum and blow off any uh residual dirt was really dirty under here and i try to get most of this dirt off of here but a lot of it's just real caked so use a lot of degreaser try to clean it up as much as i could but yeah so we're ready to get the intake manifold on all of the connectors are connected behind the engine there and the ground straps are bolted in we've got one over here on the side of the cylinder head and there's a ground strap on the back side of that cylinder head everything's prepped and ready to go we're going to go ahead and put the intake manifold in i've got the new gaskets installed so let's go ahead and get this back on the engine [Music] all right guys i know i've said this before but let me apologize for skipping ahead here the car is done it's ready to go customers on his way to come pick it up and uh yeah we got this thing up and running i'm just gonna go take it through the car wash clean it up a little bit but the car is ready to go now the reason i'm skipping ahead here is because i ran into a lot of little issues and again i knew i was going to run into a lot of issues with this thing we talked about it being an onion vehicle where it was going to have layers and layers of problems and let me tell you this thing had plenty of layers to deal with so let me go ahead and give you guys an overview so after installing the wiring harness the vehicle still did not start up so went into the vehicle tried to crank it nothing happened initially i suspected the neutral safety switch if you guys remember from the first video uh somebody had rigged it up and uh put a tie strap around it uh so i kind of went straight for that because when i hooked up the scan tool the data pin was showing that whenever i put the uh key into the crank position it was going into the crank position there was no security codes or anything like that so i went to the neutral safety switch that's located uh inside underneath the dash and what i found was that there was no power getting to the neutral safety switch or sometimes called the clutch safety switch so i looked up the wiring diagram i mean we could probably go through the wiring diagram together but essentially there's a fuse on the passenger side there's a fuse box that's actually located in like the foot well so it's kind of a weird place to put a fuse box but there's a fuse box there and what i found was that it had a blown fuse now the funny thing about it is that the customer actually said that he took the vehicle uh to another shop initially uh for the same problem and what they actually did was they ran a wire all the way from the fuse box on the passenger side across to the neutral safety switch and they tapped it into the neutral safety switch now i don't know why they ran that wire to the neutral safety switch when all it had was a blown fuse so needless to say i went ahead and i yanked all that wiring out that they rigged up repaired the wiring on the neutral safety switch connector and put a new fuse into the fuse box and this thing started right up now once i got the vehicle running it was running pretty much like crap so uh after this thing was running there was a lot of things that we had to deal with i had to replace the ignition wires and then there was a lot of other things that i had to deal with some vacuum leaks from some vacuum hoses and also uh figuring out how to route some of this wiring because uh apparently this motor is not the original motor that's in the vehicle actually this motor came out of a pickup truck it's a 6.0 engine so it's an iron block so this engine isn't even the original engine from the vehicle so anyways i ran into some weird issues like the coil connector right here this wiring harness was really really long and so the way it was left before was that it was kind of laying in the area of the header wrap now this harness does not need to be this excessively long it only goes from right here to right here so when i looked into it it looked like they had extended the wiring for that so anyways i ended up having to tuck that up in a way because on the other side it had already started cooking from the header having contact to it so anyways once i got that taken care of um we also had check engine light on that had multiple codes of course we had heater circuit codes so i was able i was able to fix those by replacing the heater circuit fuse also i ran into some throttle position sensor codes which we were able to fix by replacing the throttle position sensor i mean really honestly the list goes on and on i mean a lot of this stuff was left really loose it wasn't even bolted into place so i ended up having to uh find some hardware to bolt this stuff into place because this cooling tank was just hanging there i mean the car is just really kind of pieced together so i mean the car is not in great shape but you know it's good enough now that it runs so let's go ahead and start this thing up let you guys take a listen all right so we're inside the vehicle i got the key in my hand right here i'm gonna go ahead and push down on the clutch and uh start this thing up and if you guys notice no check engine light so little by little i was able to get rid of pretty much all the codes that were present and uh now we're code free so let me take you guys underneath the hood all right so moving under the hood first thing you'll probably notice is how choppy the idle is turns out this engine's got a camshaft performance camshaft installed so it idles real choppy that's just the way it is now the customer did tell me that the last mechanic uh told him that he had removed the tune that he had installed into the computer and put the factory tune back on i'm not really sure why he did that so the vehicle is going to need to go to a performance shop to get the computer tuned that's not my area of expertise i don't do that here he's going to have to take it to a performance shop so that they can uh get the tune right and have this thing running top notch so oh one of the other things i forgot to mention was this fuel line is going to need to get replaced this line actually doesn't even look like it's factory it's kind of rigged up but this line starts to leak if you hold it in a certain position and so i really didn't like that we're having to order that fuel line so that we can get it replaced but other than that this car is pretty much ready to go [Music] huh [Music] so you

Channel: ADVANCED LEVEL AUTO

Views: 6,864

Rating: 4.9364238 out of 5

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Id: EJDjZBEO0yI

Length: 37min 31sec (2251 seconds)

Published: Sat Nov 28 2020