Abandoned Logging Robot Needs a Christmas Miracle - Part 2

we're back if you haven't seen part one this is probably going to be pretty confusing but this is a prototype remote control log skitting robot that sat in a barn for 10 years we got the engine running but it had a massive fuel leak and some dodgy bare wires so we're going to dial back the sketchiness and see if we can get the engine kind of sorted out and then we will dial up the sketchiness and hack into the wiring system and see if we can get the various hydraulic functions to work I've got some parts straight from the hots Mother Ship there's a fuel filter a return line a supply line and all the various copper washers and seals that we need this stuff is not cheap there's just over $400 here for those basically three parts boy this thing is really crusty stupid rodents the only real leak is up on the top and a couple guys told me that this is a common problem with these engines and the dots engines too and that all you really need to do is chop apart the crimp and then install just some basic rubber hose with a regular hose clamp which seems like a good idea but fortunately I already ordered the parts before I knew that so if we got them we might as well put them on okay there's one uh uh not 17 okay come on there's that one boy it was not long for this world look at that crimp just completely rotted out rodents I hate them there's a clipped off wire I wonder what that was for look like a pretty big one too going into that relay I think okay well we'll get the fuel system sorted out first and then we're going to have to tear into the electrical cuz it's looking pretty shoty I don't know if that's coming out of there really we're going to get all the way there and we still can't get it through because of the bjo fitting there well I don't think anybody really has a good system for doing these return lines but this is amongst the most complicated on I've seen three copper washers and a spacer and one of the copper washers is a different size than the other two okay yeah everybody everybody had their own idea my Oliver tractor that one's super complicated it's got actual te's and compression fittings you got to bend the lines up up in like a figure eight to make them work John Deere had those pot metal te's with the kind of square rubber washers that you had to smash down and they had just straight steel lines between them those work pretty good I guess and then this attaches there okay cool I got to work that grommet back down in there but otherwise I think we're done up here the lines are installed let's go ahead and see if we can get this fuel filter off I think she's been on there a while the rodents they really did a number on on it hope we don't find any more problems related to them a they're so destructive some of you guys might remember I had a Honda Civic in here that we worked on that sat in a pasture for I don't know 5 years or something and the mice got up underneath of the alternator between the alternator and the engine block I believe built a nest and they peed on that thing so much they swelled up the case of the alternator and essentially seized it up okay there's a mechanical lift pump here should be able to just pump that and see if we have any leaks oh I hear it okay I think that's it I can hear it running through the return line back to the tank so we should be good to go but we got to do something with this wiring this is a hot mess so that big wire there is just broken off looks like maybe the terminal broke off I don't know I think it goes into the bottom of this relay I don't know what that does so I'm going have to see if I can find a wiring diagram and we'll see if we can fix that up we got a chewed up wire here and a broken off wire here those both go into this relay socket and the relay itself is also in pretty crusty condition so I'm going to go ahead and replace that with a new relay socket and a new relay I think there's one other wire I saw that was gwed on up by the alternator should be pretty straightforward here of course a smart person would probably disconnect the battery well what's the worst that could happen crusty all right think that'll work now there's one more wire way up yonder I'm going to have to patch up I think I'll just put some liquid electrical tape on that for now and then once we find out that the alternator doesn't work and I have to tear that all apart I'll go ahead and fix it right at that time I think we should be able to fire it up and make sure there's no leaks maybe run it for a few minutes get it slightly warmed up and then we'll change the oil so let's see what happens here the good news is it runs and it's not leaking from the new hose but it's still leaking a lot of fuel somewhere I think somewhere in the injector so we may have to pull this number one cylinder injector out and have a look at it I don't know what's going on and maybe it is still coming from up here well there's your problem so I somehow pinched that copper gasket when I put it back together that'll work should be a pretty easy oil change there's just a valve here with a hose that sticks out the bottom if it'll actually drain there it goes that work now according to the Chart you can put just about any oil you want in this engine but it seems to be happiest with 5w 40 so that's what we'll [Applause] [Applause] use [Applause] I think we've sufficiently dialed back the sketchiness on the engine I'm going to leave the tin work off for right now cuz I want to pressure wash inside here I don't know if the alternator works but it doesn't really matter let's move on to the Hydraulics a lot of the hoses were disconnected I think I've got them all hooked back up or bypassed but the problem is to get the Hydraulics working we have to deal with the electronics that's where it gets kind of complicated trademark drawing time this is an overview of the hydraulic system as I currently understand it and there's a lot going on here the engine Powers four separate hydraulic pumps the first one is a hydrostatic pump that powers the right side track motor and it's controlled by a proportional electric solenoid so proportional basically means variable or analog if you like the more current we jam into that solenoid the faster the track motor will Spin and the faster the machine will move in a given Direction there's a second identical hydrostatic pump here for the left side track motor and it's controlled the same way between those is a third hydrostatic pump that powers the winch and instead of a proportional solenoid it actually has this tiny little hydraulic cylinder that moves a control lever and I'm not sure why they did that there's also another tiny hydraulic cylinder that controls the throttle at the back is a fixed displacement vein pump or gear pump and it Powers all of the other hydraulic functions the blade the arm the grapple and those functions are controlled by onoff Electric solenoids in a bank here and then kind of spread throughout the chassis so one for the throttle winch the freeze spool which which I believe I called the brake in the last video it's actually a freeze spool there's one that's not used as far as I can tell blade arm and grapple the grapple also has an accumulator so it's basically a it stores pressure so that when the grapple is clamped onto a log and you let off on the Hydraulics it will maintain its clamping force on the log yeah so what we have to do is hack into the controls and fire these solenoids and see if we can get this thing to work and if we can get it to work then we'll build an actual remote all right I don't know why but I just really don't want to hack this machine up it's going to be like that movie Armageddon where Bruce Willis and his buddies start tearing apart this multi-million dollar NASA space rover throwing Parts out of it pretty soon there's like a small block Chevy crankshaft on the workbench first of all you got the flow system all reversed that's right well that's because your cans are all wrong Mr Wizard oh well if we want it to work it's got to be done all right it's done now now the sketchy part I'm going to put power to the solenoids manually one at a time and we'll just see if we can make it move in an effort to not die I'm going to use this remote starter switch and kind of stay at a safe distance see if we can hear it clicking yeah okay so let's fire it up and see what happens all right it's not working well Shucks I had this delusion that I could Cobble together a remote and drive this thing around and kind of show it off and put a nice bow on it for Christmas that is not going to happen the good news is the engine fires right up it doesn't leak and it purrs like a two-cylinder kitten the other good news is the tracks seem to work they're pretty crusty and crunchy but they do they do turn the bad news is none of the other Hydraulics work and I don't know exactly why I don't have a schematic I kind of made my own schematic and if I'm looking at it right there is no way that the Hydraulics can work the way that they're currently configured it probably looks like gibberish to most of you don't feel bad this is very confusing I I barely understand it myself as it's drawn I don't think this system can possibly work and in practice it doesn't work none of the circuits fed by this pump work I get a little bit of flow but they will not build pressure and I don't know if I've got something hooked up wrong or if this is designed wrong or if something's broken or if my brain is broken and I'm thinking about this all wrong but I don't see how this can work so there is a fixed displacement gear pump that feeds a parallel manifold and there are five electric solenoid valves four of them are closed Center this one here for all intents and purposes is a closed Center valve this one is not used the ports are blocked off this one for the grapple has an accumulator this one for the freeze pool has one port blocked off this is a single acting cylinder basically but everything else is just regular hydraulic cylinders standard stuff but what's weird is that this valve here for the blade is a tandem Center so any anytime that this is in the neutral position the pressure can go right through this bypass and back to the tank so with this in the neutral position none of these circuits can possibly build pressure but what's weird is that this one doesn't work either if I actuate this valve the blade will not go up it will not build pressure so I don't know how this is supposed to work they're mixing closed center and open Center valves and I would expect this to be set up as open Center so these should all be tandem Center and the pressure should go through each valve in series but they have them set up in parallel which is how you would do it if it was closed Center so I don't know how that can work there's no load sensing valve unless they're just deadheading it and running it past the relief valve all the time but that I don't think that would be the case that'd be pretty pretty inefficient so I don't I don't know this is this is very strange as far as I can tell none of this stuff has been monkeyed with I mean the solenoid valves are all in their original positions the plumbing is in the correct positions I don't know this is beyond my abilities I think luckily there's a lot of really smart people who watch these videos I don't know exactly why but they do and they help me and that's what I need I need somebody who knows more about Hydraulics than me to to tell me what's going on here yeah I really thought the controls was going to be the the Big Challenge and I more or less figured that out I didn't expect the Hydraulics to be a stumbling block I thought we could just tap into them and make this thing work sadly that is not the case but that's okay I'm out of time thanks for watching Merry Christmas and we'll be back with part three

Channel: Watch Wes Work

Views: 126,385

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Id: ao11T0jtOuU

Length: 22min 1sec (1321 seconds)

Published: Sun Dec 24 2023