Abandoned Campbell Hausfeld Generators (Part 1) - No Power Output, Obsolete Carburetor Damaged

hey guys welcome back so today we're working on this 5000 watt helzer Feld generator this is powered by a 9 horse Briggs Vanguard engine and was dropped off by a local subscriber Chris he was recently cleaning out a warehouse and came across this machine it was destined for the trash and he didn't want to see that happen so he brought it home with the intention of fixing it you know he said he went through the car it was in pretty bad shape he did get it clean enough to at least run the engine on choke and it was at that point where he realized the generator was not making power so yeah not a good sign more times than not when the generator doesn't make power it is a terminal issue and likely this is a parts machine so we're going to dig into that in a minute and find out exactly what's going on you know I guess worst case if this is a parts machine that's okay so we're going to get three more chances because that was not the only generator in that warehouse so we have a total of four they're all Houser Feld generators powered by 9 horse Briggs Vanguard engine so you know I say we start with the one that Chris already did some work on we'll figure out what the problem is and go from there so now that it's up here on the lift we can get a better look and just kind of give it a once over see if we see any issues here I guess first off this fuel line is not correct it's very close to the exhaust and usually this fuel valve is on the opposite side where the generator is the fuel line should drop down kind of below the head in the exhaust and then up into the carburetor so this tank I would say is on backwards and if you look at these generators you can tell all these tanks are on correct because the fill it's on the generator side and actually if you look at this one you can see the fuel line comes kind of down below the exhaust so that's what I would expect on this machine right here now the heat shield also I don't think it's in the right spot you know that baffle right there should be further back and if you look at the exhaust over here there's actually no heat shield that's just the plastic tank so yeah the heat shield it's also on backwards so we need to correct that looks like we have some random wires right here this is for a solenoid to idle the machine down when there's no load now I don't see anything that that would connect to so maybe this was just an unused feature that came with this engine not sure and as far as the engine goes it looks pretty complete although we are going downhill so yeah I'm thinking we do have a broken engine mount and yeah that one is broken so we will need to deal with that on the generator side it's pretty simple setup there is really no separate control panel it's all right here we have the circuit breakers we got the 240 and the 120 out and I believe this is brushless so I'm going to start there let's get the multimeter out we'll just check the resistance see if there's any red flags and then likely we'll open this up and take a look inside I'm going to start just with a quick and dirty test you know we can test the resistance of leg one and leg two through the outlets now this isn't a perfect test because a lot of times the neutral and the ground they are bonded together so you really can't check for ground faults unless you disconnect all the wires from the stator and test each winding separately but testing like this you can tell a lot you could tell if there's High Resistance or an open circuit or something that doesn't quite seem right anyway to do this you're just going to need a multimeter set to measure resistance in ohms and check the leads first make sure you know the resistance of your leads you know sometimes it can be quite high in my case it's 0.1 so any reading I get you know I can subtract the internal resistance of the leads so I'm going to check leg one and leg two you can do it through here most likely this is leg one and leg two the 240 plug though is a little bit easier to identify what's what the one here with this little tab that is the ground opposites the neutral then you have leg one and leg two so if I put a lead in the neutral we can then test each leg so we'll start with the one here on the left we'll call that leg one and we're at 0 5 ohms which seems reasonable you know I don't know what the resistance should be on this generator but most come in between 0 2 and 0.5 and of course we have 0.1 in these leads so it's actually closer to 3 Ohms on that first leg and the other leg should be the same you know if everything's h Y and it's not we're at 1.2 so yeah that that is a red flag there might be something wrong with the stator which would explain why it's not working now it doesn't mean there's a problem with the stator I mean that resistance could be coming from the outlet it could be coming from the circuit breaker so we do need to get this cover off we will disconnect this panel and we'll test directly to the stator the stator actually looks pretty good I don't see any evidence of overheating none of the lacing is broken so that is definitely a good sign uh this is also a brushless generator there are no brushes here there's no slip Rings uh but we do have a diode right there and there's another one kind of opposite on the bottom so that could be a point of failure uh more commonly though it's the capacitor we have a 10 microfarad capacitor right here now it should have been secured I think something like like that so most likely this was removed you know Chris did say he tested the capacitor and it tested well you know we will double check that but one thing I'm noticing here if you look at the connections to that capacitor there is a bunch of rust in there and if that is preventing a good connection from the capacitor then that for sure would prevent this from powering up so that very well could be the issue uh also we do have a ground just floating in space here you know most likely it was connected to one of these points so we'll have to figure that out but for now I say we just unplug everything from the stator we'll test each winding make sure it's good that we don't have any shorts to ground and we'll check that capacitor see if it's still at 10 microfarad so we'll just double check this make sure it's discharged which it is yeah pretty Rusty in there and those connectors look nice and clean all right let's see if this stator is any good now we did test it through the outlets and we know it's not blatantly bad but the resistance was off between leg one and leg two and almost 100% of the time leg one and leg two the resistance should be the same or really really close and in this case we had 1.1 1.2 on one of the legs and on the other we had about 0.5 so that's a big discrepancy and also with the control panel on we had a bond between neutral and ground which means you can't test that the insulation is actually good now ideally each winding should be separate there should be no connection to ground nothing cross-connected from leg one leg two or the DPE because everything is isolated at this point now I don't know what the known good values are for this particular generator but most Staters leg one and leg two the resistance comes in at 0.2 to 0.5 ohms so you want to see something in that range and you want to see that leg one and leg two either match or are very close so now we're checking one of the legs we're at0 4.5 seems good check it to ground no connection to ground so the insulation seems to be holding we'll check the other leg and hopefully we see the same resistance and we do so that's good 04.5 we'll check it to ground and no connection to ground so the difference we saw earlier between leg one and leg two that resistance must be coming from the control panel so maybe a bad circuit breaker or maybe not bad but one that has you know a little bit of corrosion on it so we'll check that later you know the main focus is the power head I want to make sure it's good and on the DPE winding usually I see between two sorry between 1 and 2 ohms but this varies a bit between generators and this one's at 2.5 so that seems reasonable we'll check it to ground no connection so that is good and let's just check from the DPE to leg one there should be no connection leg two there should be no connection and there's not on either of those and then just check between leg one one and Lake two we should have no connection and we don't so the stator seems to be healthy you know it passed the low voltage test we have no connections to ground nothing's cross-connected so I don't think we have an issue with the stator you know potentially we do with the rotor but on a brush lless like this it's very hard to test the rotor and I will say I haven't seen one fail yet so that likely is not it but we can't cross it off the list unless we're willing to remove the diodes to test that so for now let's shift over to the capacitor let's test that and make sure it's good the rating on this is 10 microfarad plus or minus 5% and you're never going to see exactly the rated amount but it should be within the tolerance and in this case we are we're at at 9.71 so the capacitor seems to be fine one last test I want to do here is just check the resistance again the DPE winding but this time through these terminals on the capacitor now that'll kind of tell me what the health is of these connections you know given we see some Rust there I want to make sure we get a similar reading which was about 2.5 Ohms on that winding and yeah that is that is what we're seeing so although there's some Rust here it's not really impacting anything and I don't think is the reason why this is not powering up so I'm going to secure this capacitor I'm going to leave the control panel off we'll just probe in right here and I want to get the engine running and just see what's going on as far as the voltage goes I guess the other unknown here was this capacitor floating around when Chris was testing meaning was it not secured because if it was not secured then these terminals potentially could have been shorting out on something and and that would also prevent this from powering up like it should it's got oil should definitely be changed but we do have enough to test with so let's make it earn its oil change so I'm going to get this airbox cut cover off I want to make sure we don't have a critter in here and likely I'm going to leave it off for testing you know we might need to assist this engine running a little bit with some starting fluid and it's kind of hard getting this airbox off with the engine sitting sideways so yeah let's um let's actually deal with the engine mount issue now you know get this machine leveled out before we try to start it ah can't do it tanks in the way so let's pull the tank off now there is a little bit of fuel in the tank I'm not sure how old it is so I'm going to drain that out first then we'll get the tank off okay yeah I misread this one a bit I thought this engine mount the original one was broken and now that it's off I can see it's not actually broken but it is collapsed so it did need to be replaced and now that I have a bit of Leverage I was just double-checking the other mounts and the one right here although it initially looked good you know if you look right here when I lift up you can see that one is actually just hanging on by a thread so that one has to be replaced as well and even down here on the power head side we are missing some hardware and if I lift up you can see that also has issues so for now we'll just get this one replaced so we'll at least have the engine held in place you know this one we can Circle back on if we can get this generator head to make Power just going to drain the carb real quick yeah I'm not sure how recently it was that Chris tried running this so the fuel in there could be less than fresh and in this case nothing's coming out so either the drain is clogged or it's empty and I'm thinking that drain is clogged there we go little bit of fuel it's a good thing I did that a lot of what came out is water you can kind of see the water line down there I'd say about 50% of this is water and there is a bunch of debris so I'm going to connect up a temporary fuel supply just let it run through flush out the bowl a bit and then we'll try to start it all oh wow that carb not doing so well the needle and seat they are not playing nice and it's flooding out severely so yeah this carb needs to be gone through you I do have a clone carb for this engine so I'm thinking we can Circle back to this later we'll put the Clone on I've never tried a clone carb on a Vanguard so I'm not sure if it's going to run the engine too well but it should run it better than this so let's get this one off throw on the clone and then I think we'll be [Music] [Music] ready for for before I get this joke bracket back on I'm going to remove this piece right here this generator doesn't have anything that can use this this is essentially an electromagnet so when it's energized it'll hold the throttle in the idle position but yeah on this machine it serves no purpose you know the wires are damaged anyway so we'll just get it off of the bracket but not with that battery for I already got an issue here with the Clone carb there's something wrong with the choke linkage you know I can't get it to open and close so I'm going to take this back off take a closer look at what's going on seems okay now not sure what it was it's actually the alignment of the airbox if it's a little bit off it hangs up the choke so the opening or the choke plate must be a little larger than the OEM one I think we're pretty much ready to go I have fueled up the carb and the needle's holding nice and steady so at least the Clone has that going for it and I have rigged up a plug connected to one of the legs goes into this power strip we have the multimeter connected a light connected although it's turned off I'm not going to turn it on immediately unless I see voltage you know my concern is we have a residual magnetism issue and if that light's turned on it's not going to help anything now assuming we don't have voltage which I'm not expecting to then I'm going to try to use the drill to flash the field and with any luck that'll bring power back to this machine all right let's give this a try choke on ignition on [Applause] [Music] well that was very interesting I guess first off the engine itself sounds good uh the carburetor not running the engine so well it's running the engine way too rich so that carb is I think ultimately going to get returned it is not suitable for this machine so we will have to repair the OEM Muni which is actually a discontinued part now as far as the power output goes it was kind of an odd result you know initially I think I was seeing about 7 volts on the multimeter uh the light bulb was not on so I was getting ready to flash the field or at least attempt it with the drill and when I pulled the trigger down on the drill I noticed the light bulb glowing a bit now I'm not sure if it immediately started glowing or after I spun the drill once or twice whatever it was it was glowing dimly and the drill was spinning slowly so I tried a heavier load of 750 watts and then, 1500 watts and what I found is that when I put that load on the light got brighter you know the heater was getting warm although the fan wasn't spinning very fast so it's really interesting what's going on here I guess my initial thought is maybe that capacitor is bad or maybe it's the wrong rating you know 10 microfarad it is pretty small most generators that I've worked on have at least 40 so I'm going to pull the endcap off one of these other machines see what's in there for a capacitor and hopefully it's more than what we have on this machine [Music] it's hard to tell this one's Pretty Dirty but this capacitor does look larger so it gives me a bit of hope that maybe theong capacitor is in the other machine so let me cut these zip ties or actually maybe I can just unplug it and rotate it this capacitor is pretty Rusty too may not be in good condition but if we have the value we need and that might be good enough and in this case it's 25 microfarad so that is quite a bit different than 10 so I think that's our issue on the other machine most likely let's see if this rusted out capacitor is any good 24 microfarad so yeah despite the rest on the terminals this capacitor actually should work so let me cut it out we'll plug it into the other machine and try again all right let's try this again pretty much the same setup as before the only difference is we do have a space heater on standby and this time the lights on and of course we have a different capacit are in there rated at 25 microfarad [Applause] amazing the difference the correct part makes now that I was suspicious of going into this this generator unfortunately I couldn't find any documentation on it no user manual no service manual so if I hadn't have had these others that were the same model I would not have known that the wrong part was in there but now that we have the right part it's making power that light came on right away we were at about 121 volts 62 Hertz and I was able to load it up to 1500 watts without issue so this machine definitely a Survivor you know the engine the generator are both good the carb yeah we need to go through that OEM carb and get that running better because this carb it's way too rich I do not want to leave it on this machine so let's let's get the carb opened up see if we can save it actually change a plan let's get the oil changed it's definitely earned it it's perfect so how bad do you think it's going to be it looks halfway decent from the outside and the bolt doesn't look bad on really bad carbs this would be severely rusted and the fact that we could get the drain out is a good sign too A lot of times when these car are really bad that screw just breaks off and yeah actually looks pretty good and I can see why we were flooding over it was acting like there was no needle and that's because the needle is in the bottom of the bowl and unfortunately this carb is shot this arm is broken and you got to be careful when removing the float those can break uh which is too bad I don't think this carb is going to be usable now because of that yeah so definitely shot let me check my stash I don't think I have any Muni carbs for a Vanguard but I might so let me dig around see what I can come up with it's really too bad that this is broken because the inside actually looks to be an excellent condition so what I'm going to try real quick here is well to see if this jet fits in the Clone carb and I'd say the odds of that are low even though it's a clone there are differences I mean take this bow nut for example OEM is 12 mm that one looks like 10 and you know is this jet exactly the same as far as the threads go and just the shape of it because what I'm thinking is if it is we can maybe move the Jets over from the OEM to the Clone to get it to run correct and they actually look compatible let's see if it's the same thread yeah actually it is the same thread so let's just double check it real quick I want to see what the Clone jet size was for the pilot jet uh versus the OEM and we'll do the same for the main jet the largest Micro drill bit on the OEM that fits is a 79 so I assume the Clone will be larger yeah 79 is quite loose so is a [Music] 78 77 76 wow 75 74 73 72 71 yeah so that is a big difference the way these micro drill bits work the smaller the number the larger the drill bit the OEM jet was a 79 and the Clone one same pilot jet 71 not even remotely close so using the OEM pilot jet will certainly make it more lean you I will say though the muni jetting is always very lean it's actually hard to get it to not surge you know so this may need to be drilled out which is fine you know once it's too big like this one you can't put that material back so let's check the main Jets see if they're compatible and I'm going to go out on a limb here and say they're not because this Main Jet has a tiny thread and a lot of times the Clones won't copy something this small they might use like a Honda Style Main Jet where it's up the center instead of the side and if they did use one on the side chances are it's not going to be the same thread so let's take a [Music] look and yeah this one has the main jet up the center so we can't swap the main Jets but we can at least check this one see how it compares to the original yeah I'm guessing it's going to be smaller actually that is a tiny jet just like the original threads may even be the same let's double check I am impressed so I take back what I said about this clone yes the jetting is off but at least they matched the threads on the OEM carb you know why they didn't match the jetting I don't know all right let's check the main jet on the OEM see where it's at you I'm guessing it's going to be somewhere in the 60 kind of the mid-60s so we'll start with 67 which fits fine that one does not fit so the largest one that fits on the main jet is a 68 for the OEM so let's try the Clone and it does look smaller yeah 6 68 does not fit actually a 69 fits and I was wrong the OEM is a 66 so yeah at least these are a little bit closer but I can say with Fair certainty that if I switch to the OEM pilot jet the Clone carb is not going to run rich it's probably going to run lean so I'm thinking let's use the OEM pilot jet and the Clone Main Jet and actually this one had an o-ring on it which we might want to transfer over all right let's try it out all right let's give us a try OEM pilot jet clone Main Jet we are fueled up and ready to go that was it it was just the pilot jet the Clone pilot jet was just way too large you know this time the engine ran nice and smooth without a load and last time we ran this with the Clone jet in there the engine was shaking it was sputtering and that's a sign of incomplete combustion too much fuel not enough air and if given time that'll carbon up the engine and cause problems and of course it's going to pollute so yeah it's kind of surprising because they did a very good job cloning that carburetor and to get the jetting as wrong as they did kind of makes you wonder how that could have happened anyway we're almost done I'd say with this machine we just got to clean it up get the airbox back on secure the stator you know as far as the capacitor goes I'm going to leave that one in there we'll just order up a new one for the machine we stole it from and then lastly we'll get the control panel installed but before I do that let's just test it see if we can't figure out where that extra resistance is coming from for let's just double check the resistance of each of the wires coming from the control panel over to the connector now last time we tested when this was connected to the generator we saw higher resistance I believe on these two wires here so we'll double check those real quick right now we're on the neutral so we need to find that down here now this should be a very low resistance connection you around 0.1.2 and that's exactly where we are so there's no issue there let's try this one so 3.4 that one's a little higher not much though I mean we're we're pretty close let's just double check over here let's see what that's at .1 Point 2.1 that is a good connection and you know to test all four wires actually we're going to have to test over here so let's just do the same test I want to make sure I test both neutrals on this one we only have one neutral wire or maybe they're combined so that is a high connection a high resistance connection that's what we were seeing before and let's see is it this wire is that the equivalent over here yeah it is so we have a low connection from this Outlet to that outlet but from here to the input it's a high resistance connection so you I'm thinking it is the circuit breaker so this bottom one is looks like the red wire which goes over to here and then it jumpers over to here so it goes from this connector to the circuit breaker to that outlet to this Outlet so the issue is between here and this outlet and of course what do we have in the middle we have a circuit breaker so let's test actually let's just double check which connector it was all right so it's the one here on the bottom right so we'll test from there to the output side of the circuit breaker and that's a nice low connection so circuit breaker actually isn't the problem it must be this Outlet or more likely this connection here this screw on the side looks pretty rusted up so I'm thinking that might be our problem but let's just probe it from the back side here see what we get nice low connection and that that jumpers over to here let's check that and nice low connection so actually there's nothing wrong with the wiring cuz we can go from one end all the way to the other we have a nice low connection so if anything the issue is more likely some corrosion or just a bad spot on this plug so let's just try it again maybe we can find a better spot and yeah now we have a good connection so I think that's all it is these terminals in here they probably haven't been used in a while and I think just plugging stuff in and unplugging it it's going to clean that clean that up real well so yeah now we're a little higher let's try it one more time a lot higher and now we're again so yeah I'm not too worried about that those contacts they should clean themselves up just with a little bit of use I'm going to try to add a zip tie somehow to these wires I'm just worried that you know if they go in there and hit the rotor that that'll be the end of this generator so maybe a zip tie kind of through the vent here just making sure this stays kind of out of the way for for I think we're at the point where we can roll this one off the lift and grab another one and bring it up on now the one here on the end we are still waiting for a capacitor on it's going to be a couple more days so we'll pass on that one for now and the one right next to it it's actually missing the carburetor or I should say it's uninstalled you know Chris did include it it's right here in the box but after looking it over I can see that we have the same issue here the little leg on the left is broken off so we do need to order another clone carb and swap these OEM Jets into to it so I'll get that ordered up so we'll skip that one as well and that just leaves this other one here in the corner you know it seems to be complete so I say we get that one up on the lift and take a closer [Music] look this one seems to be in much better shape it's dirty but less rust less aluminum oxide uh the engine mounts seem to be good and we're not missing any hardware I think the only thing we're actually missing here is a fuel line and that is not a big deal to get installed so before I get the engine running I do think I want to pop this cover off I want to make sure we have the same 25 microfarad capacitor we'll test it real quick make sure it's good and quickly validate the condition of the generator head and assume everything checks out which I think it will we'll move on and get that engine running yeah someone's been in here because we are missing the capacitor the ground wire is in a different spot which is fine it looks like it broke off right there so yeah this is not going to run without a capacitor so let me pull the end cover off the other generator and see what we have in there this one is a different model so there a reasonable chance the capacitor is different as well nope no capacitor in here this one is brush so I'm just going to steal the capacitor from the generator we just finished for now it's actually the next day you I decided not to pull that capacitor out you know this machine I just put it together and I kind of want to leave it that way plus the capacitor I ordered for that one is going to arrive later today so you I think in this case we will just wait for the correct part and you know I kind of misspoke earlier when I said there wasn't a capacitor in here I mean there is one you know it is the wrong rating and even if it was the right rating that capacitor is polarity sensitive and is never going to work in a brushless generator so that one is out you know I think it's best just to wait and I guess while we're waiting I'm going to get that carburetor off I'm sure it needs to be gone through so we'll get that squared away and then once the capacitor arrives we'll get that plugged in and give this thing a try I was worried there for a second I thought this might not be a Muni you know it looked a little different to me than the other one we pulled off but it is a Muni although interestingly enough the the word Muni is only on one side or maybe it is under here and I just can't see it you know either way I think that is good news because you know I might end up putting a clone on this one and I did order actually two more clone carbs just anticipating that these are going to be pretty bad and one of them has shown up so yeah we got a little bit of dust and this one actually isn't that bad uh the ears aren't broken you know this throughway to the emulsion tube seems to be clear Main Jet looks clogged you know but otherwise this is in pretty good shape it should clean up so let me see if I can get this pin out without breaking anything there there we go looks like the emotion tube is removable I'll try to get that out there we go Motion tube looks to be in pretty good shape and lastly we have the pilot jet and that is coming out yeah so this carb I actually think is viable we just need to clean it up and yeah that that pilot jet looks clogged so let's go through everything make sure it's clear and then we'll put it in the ultrasonic and put it back on the machine this car may have actually run the pilot jet was not clogged and neither was the main jet that we did have a lot of debris so that likely would have clogged things up pretty quickly I'm just using some Dawn dish detergent not as effective as the Harbor Freight Degreaser but that Degreaser has a new recipe and it's now corrosive to aluminum granted it does still work well on a lot of carbs but some it reacts very poorly to so we'll start just with the Dawn and if that doesn't cut it we'll try the Harbor Freight to greaser it's cleaning up pretty well I mean the inside was fairly clean to begin with except right there and it has cleaned off here we're just left with some corrosion you know that said I going to give it another 5 or 10 minutes just to make sure it cleaned up pretty well uh but I did notice the O-ring here is broken so I'm going to get that out we'll try to steal one from the other carb the one that has the broken arm and with any luck we can just swap it out yeah yeah that one's correct too all right well we got one more parts card let's take a look in there got it e let's try it out that theoretically this engine should run and I really want to hear it run before cleaning it up anymore you know that said the day has come and gone and unfortunately the capacitor never showed up you know that said I do have capacitors the problem is they're not 25 microfarad but I do have one rated at 20 and another one rated at 30 so I'm thinking we give the 20 a try you know that should be enough to excite the field and get the power to come on so let me get this one installed we'll put some fuel in the carb and try to start it being that this this capacitor is a little undersized the generator voltage will be low but it should be a lot better than that 10 microfarad on that other generator so I'm expecting the light to turn on you know the voltage I wouldn't be surprised if it was at least close to 100 volts the only other thing of concern here is that this capacitor only has a rating for 300 volts and usually I see ratings higher than that on these you know that said I don't I don't think it's going to see 300 volts so I think we'll be okay let's check the oil real quick yeah oil's actually fairly clean and it's right to the full Mark so it should be safe to start all right we are full right to there and the needle and seat seem to be working so we're off to a good start so we've got a few things here on standby I've got the light turned on uh we have the space heater a voltmeter in case things don't power up and of course the kilowatt so let's give the cord a pull and see what we get that was pretty good I mean the engine started right up it sounds good and we're making power so I would say we are just about there you know as far as the carb goes yeah it's not perfect without a load there is a surge so we're running a little bit lean so I'm thinking one or two things here I guess if we add the airbox back on that might Rich things up enough to get rid of that surge so I'm going to try that first and if that doesn't work I think we need to pull the pilot jet and drill it out a size for well surprisingly that was it just adding that air filter created enough drag on the air flow to Rich things up just enough to get rid of that Surge and now it's running pretty well so I think we're going to be okay I don't think we need to drill that jet out but we will keep an eye on it anyway at this point I think it's time to get the oil changed uh we'll get it cleaned up and when the capacitor arrives we'll get it installed and finish it up let's just check the oil level that is pretty much perfect right at the full mark the new capacitor showed up today actually two of them and another clone carburetor so let's finish this up and get this installed and something I should have done on the other generator was pop this cover off because the rotor bolt is right in the center and there's a lot of wires here that you don't want touching that bolt so it kind of gives you a little window to look in yeah and I think you can see we are clear none of the wires are touching that bolt so I'll put the cap back on I am going to just double check the other one uh to make sure I was just cleaning up the tank and I noticed on the bushing here we do have a hairline crack so if it's not leaking now it's going to be really soon so we need to get that replaced well that was easy got the tank reinstalled and all cleaned up and I also made up a new fuel line but I'm going to leave it off and I probably should have left it off on the other machine because I am going to use the test tank to test these machines so this one I would say is ready so we now have two that are theoretically fixed so I I say we get them outside and put them to the test see if they can still pull 5,000 [Applause] Watts well it's a pretty cold day it's windy so I apologize if there's wind noise and there's a chance of snow squalls so this could get interesting anyway I've got this machine hooked up to the load Bank this is the first one we fixed the one with the Clone carb and the OEM pilot jet So the plan is just to get it started we'll let it warm up we'll double check the outputs and then I want to bring the load up to the max of 5,000 Watts make sure that clone carb is up to the task so we're starting off at 247 volts at 63 Hertz and the THD 4.4% so not too bad on the side wave and it was a lot of glare so I'll take a picture and put that up on the screen all right let's try bringing a load on to 2500 watts we'll start with 2,000 add another five and surprisingly the THD did not move much we're at 4.7% voltage pretty close to 240 volts and the Hertz 60.2 so yeah that's actually pretty [Applause] good all right now we'll go for the gold so I'm going to take off this 500 we'll swap it for a 2,000 no issues 4500 5,000 it's holding 58 Hertz 58.2 voltage is at 200 23 volts and the THD not bad 5.5% [Applause] [Applause] thankfully it's a nice cold day so this cools off really fast [Applause] all right this one performed really well it started first pull THD was surprisingly load under a full load it went from 4% no load to 5.5% so yeah very clean and the carb what can I say the Clone it's doing a good job with the OEM pilot jet so let's get this unplugged we'll move it out of the way and swap it with the other [Applause] all right let's see how this one does it is the same model machine really the only difference is the fact that we have an oem carb and we have a brand new capacitor on here [Music] that's a slight surge in that OEM carb every once in a while anyway we're starting at about 4.9% THD the voltage 251 volts and the Hertz 62.3 the sine wave looks about the same as the other machine anyway let's bring on a half load see how it does we start with 2,000 Watts 2500 engine speed is fine at 61.2 Hertz we're at 251 volts and the THD 5% pretty impressive all right let's bring it up to the max 4,000 wats 4500 5,000 voltage is fine at 229 volts THD is at 5.5% just like the other and the Herz 58.6 yeah like the other one it's not too bad [Music] all right guys I think that's pretty much a wrap it is starting to snow and the wind is picking up quite a bit anyway the second machine did just as well as the first you know in the end these didn't need a whole lot other than the proper capacitors and carbs that could run the engine properly and in the end we have two very good running machines with clean output anyway I'm going to wrap the video here you know next week we'll tackle the other two and hopefully make out as well so I hope this video help someone thanks for [Music] watching w

Channel: James Condon

Views: 130,827

Keywords: 9hp, Alternator, Bogging, Briggs and Stratton, Briggs, Brushless, Capacitor, Carburetor, Clogged Carburetor, Clone Carburetor, Engine Mount, Fixed, Flash the Field, Generator, Hertz, How To, How-To, Insulation Test, Leaking Fuel, Leaking Gasoline, Load Test, Low THD, Low Voltage, Microfarad, Mikuni, No Output, No Power, Repair, Resistance Test, Rich, Running Rich, Small Engine, THD, Total Harmonic Distortion, Troubleshooting, Vanguard, Will No Run, Won't Start

Id: oFW3E7By2Ng

Length: 88min 33sec (5313 seconds)

Published: Thu Jan 25 2024