A Week Training With a Pro Climber Ft. Jim Pope

when it comes to training I really don't think there is some kind of secret thing which makes you way better or anything I think it is just being consistent with it over a long period of time [Music] last year I managed to qualify for the Olympic qualification series by coming top 50 in the World Cups so this year my main goal really is to train for those OCS events which will be held in May and June and they'll be where the last spots allocated for the Olympics so that's kind of the main goal at the minute I've sort of like made my room as just a bit of a geeky climbing like collector's Den now gave me this signed by Johnny Ben Moon Jerry Ron it's pretty cool I've always really like climbing history and just like all things climbing really I'm a bit obsessed so I'm kind of always scouring eBay old books or magazines or posters or like literally anything I got some old campus rungs dotted around this is Aiden's birthday present our father doing his thing it's nice to just come up here and chill out in between bits of of work or something just like flick through some old magazines read some articles and that's actually how I started a lot of my training when I was a kid I used to just read all these magazine articles from like Malcolm Smith and stuff and then just do that training when I was like 13 years old or [Music] something I think I'm quite used to a high training volume so for me the average week is Six Days on and one day off competitions tend to be Saturday Sunday so I'll usually rest on Friday so that I'm kind of ready to go for Saturday and then I just mimic that in training however as it gets a bit closer to competitions I tend to have a little bit more rest so this week I've had rest day on Tuesday so I had 3 days on one day off two days on one day off and that's a lot nicer for having more skin and less muscle soreness so that you can kind of get more out of each session where the emphasis is more on quality rather than quantity or training some energy systems or something because the oqs is combined event of both lead and Boulder my training is quite different now whereas I used to kind of train for a boulder season and then a lead season now it's a lot more concurrent so I'm training both of them together every week will consist of a couple of endurance sessions couple of strength sessions and then some kind of play sessions where I'll be working more on like movement Saturday I was doing hard circuits trying to make them as hard as I can and aiming for like 40 to 50 moves I guess trying to just mimic what it's like on a hard lead route that we might come across in a world cup so not many resting points kind of quite Relentless in terms of just hard move after hard move I'll make up a circuit and I might try that circuit for two or three [Music] sessions and then once it feels learnt and I'm kind of just moving through it like too fast then I'll try and set another one to work on cuz I definitely think you can kind of learn the circuit too much and then rather than actually getting fitter sometimes you've just refined it and you just kind of flow for it so well that it's not actually that beneficial for training anymore so I like to try and keep the circuits kind of new every couple sessions so pumped doing circuits it's like not I don't know you know when you see people on routes it looks like they just never pump like does it feel like this for everyone I think I've always been quite relaxed with my Approach To Everything really like I'm not super strict on myself when it comes to like eating or drinking but equally I still like want to perform well so I don't like overdo it some close friends of ours at Porta Pizza had just opened their new restaurant so we went there one day and had like pizza and a few beers and stuff I think it's important to still have that like social interaction not just training like in the gym all the time but to get out see mates that aren't just climbers and kind of do other things for me that's like really important just to keep like a healthy balance with it all I'd much rather be kind of climbing still when I'm 80 and still loving it rather than like go all in and just kind of burn out and lose lose passion for it normally I do like to eat healthy but the only footage we've got is like just me scanning pizza and bacon [Music] [Applause] [Music] Sunday was a hard Splat session so that's kind of like a hardboard session I guess but we do it on the Splat instead of on the board so it's on the holds that you'd be on in a competition and you're not kind of just on small holds and pinches you're on a lot of like big slopers or there's volumes or there's just a lot more like variety to it and it's kind of like just making up as hard borders as possible in a variety of different styles that would be like the hard climbs you'd come up against in a bold World Cup round the other week I set like a comp Sim in the comp room for a bunch of the GB guys so I'm going to start by warming up on [Music] [Music] those for me that's probably one of the most fun sessions of the week just getting to try really hard on fun CLS [Music] that session on the spray wall is usually quite a social session it's nice to kind of try Boulders with each other have Boulders set by other people with moves that you might not set yourself so it's kind of nice to bounce off of each other and you definitely feel that climbing there [Music] there's not too much structure to that session I just tend to go for as long as I can both in terms of skin and once the level drops below a point where I'm not really getting anywhere on folders that are an accurate level that's when I'll kind of tend to stop that and then go and do my conditioning that day I was just doing really heavy Pull-Ups so heavier than I can do for rep and then I'm kind of holding the top position to just strengthen that kind of end point I was doing it with plus 65 kilos which has been too hard for me to lift like that was more than my one rep max however that session was actually the first time where I've done well maybe not quite done but like .95 of a rep of like getting 65 kilos up so that was cool definitely saw some like improvements with [Music] that definitely this year I outdoor climbing has been put on the back seat a little bit but if it kind of fits in around my training in a way that it's not going to interfere with it too much I'll try and get out a little bit if I can just because I think it helps with like my general well-being and just like psych for doing the training as well them is a kind of high ball of rep it has a stand start and a Sit start and both of them kind of use this old bolt head it's literally just a small iron bolt that's just kind of like protruding from The Rock and it's just enough to kind of get you to the next hold and then there's a useful footh hold for the rest of it I don't know it's quite novel like you don't usually get to experience that sort of thing on a [Music] climb and then the ett for your left hand although it's really good is just so polished and the feet are super polished as well and if you go in summer there's always hundreds of probably thousands of ants just walking up theet like all day long so we've kind of hypothesized that maybe theet is polished from just thousands of years of ant travel it's the only it's the only possible option [Music] [Music] [Music] nice oh it's cool climbs well that's been a wish list for a while as well just pop it on 7c quite a nice circuit like some of them are a bit softer some are a bit harder it's a nice like batch of maybe 20 Boulders that if you're feeling good you can fire through them and then go on to the harder grade yeah good mileage session [Music] this board's quite different to my home board in that here like there's not really any small holds so you always doing like bigger more explosive moves so it's nice to do like sessions at home and then sessions here and they'll work like totally different things [Music] alongside all my climbing I also work as a coach and then do like little bits of root setting or just kind of any random odd job I can get really so I try and Slot that in around my training where I can either on a rest day or like before or after when I was in secondary school I did like a little bit of music tech I could never play any instruments but really enjoyed using software to like create music and then when I moved to Sheffield I got a bit more into like mixing and me and my old housemate put on a few nights together in Sheffield and then only recently I've like got back into trying to like make some little bits of music and stuff um so yeah like dug out my old MPC and um it's funny like listening back to loads of things I made when I was younger some friends of mine had asked me to record a mix for their little mix Series so I went and did that in the morning and it's nice to kind of have time where you do something totally unassociated with climbing for me it's nice to just like switch off and then I always feel myself pretty like eager to get back climbing I'm always like at the end of a rest day really Keen to like get back in the gym or get back to training this was probably the session that I hate the most I really never want to get up and do it I was just trying to think of any creative way of changing it but in the end I just got it done but I basically just do time on and time off and just stick to a cycle and just repeat that for lots and lots of sets so it's pretty like boring and arduous and it kind of destroys your skin but I think that's the kind of like good ground work that you need to just kind of raise that like Fitness level alongside all my climbing I try and do like a couple runs a week and these are never like very long or very hard it's just like 20 minute 20 to 30 minutes going pretty slow and it's more just for like you know a bit of like background training and just I I enjoy doing it it's nice to like get out of the house and get some fresh air and um just like make me feel good so I just have that in there on the side as well and I think it accompanies the lead training quite well for a bit of like Baseline endurance and just like general recovery Thursday was the last training day of the week that was play [Music] session I pullups you ion you filmed in this week every day when I'm warming up I've done done a bunch of them play will just be going and doing more hard climbing but it's on a little bit more of an emphasis of just just like messing around with different [Music] moves trying variations on a climb maybe you've like done a slab in your soft shoes try and do it in your hard shoes like see how it feels we went over to Depo armley all the boulders there were new for me I hadn't been on any of them so it was like a good place to just do a big volume of climbing and get lots of like Moves In The Bank [Music] I still got so much to learn with this kind of like for most I'd say most well for so many of the climers that do the World Cups this type of B is just like an easy flag but for me it's like 40 minute [Music] Siege come on [Music] [Music] [Music] and I just had a little bit more conditioning again just some more pull-ups these were a bit more more of a focus on power so one kind of near maximal pullup for like Recruitment and then I take the weight off and do three really fast reps to try and work on my [Music] [Music] power and then I just had a little few like sort of accessory conditioning exercises to go alongside it quite High Reps but quite low intensity and just kind of knack you [Music] out that last one was almost like dropped on my head when it comes to training I really don't think there is some kind of secret thing which makes you way better or anything I think is just being consistent with it over a long period of time and a lot of my training is very simple not really any crazy exercises it's just like simple things but doing them really well and I think most of the quality comes from the on the- wall stuff you're doing having the right attitude towards your training when you're at the wall is where you can get the most out of it being quite open to looking at what you did well in a climb and why it was good or what didn't go so well and how you can improve prove it for your next try thinking like that about each attempt is really valuable I think once you learn to drive and you've been driving a car say you've been driving for 5 years or something you don't necessarily get better at driving because when you get in the car you just switch off and kind of tick along and autopilot I think when you're in the climbing wall a lot of people maybe think the same they like turn up and they're like right I'm here I'm climbing therefore I should be getting better but you need to have that kind of active thought process about what can I be doing to get better or what can I improve on or why did my foot slip off that hold or like why couldn't I hold on to that pinch and changing all these little things and thinking about that I think that's where you can get the most out of each session by kind of having a lot more analytical look at it [Music]

Channel: WEDGE CLIMBING

Views: 37,659

Keywords: bouldering, climbing, rock climbing, training for climbing, indoor climbing, outdoor climbing, training, board climbing, endurance training, jim pope, gritstone bouldering

Id: YX6NicPSTEE

Length: 17min 19sec (1039 seconds)

Published: Mon May 06 2024