ALL my secrets about ENDURANCE

[Music] hi guys today I'm in insbrook training and today's focus is to show you my training it will be an endurance training on roots and you ask me some question on Instagram and I will try to answer uh most of them and they're are about training about my goals and I will show you in the meantime and train a training that I'm doing in these days quite often uh so will be interesting and probably pumpy okay I'm trying to find something to warm up and usually I do two roots for warming up first one could be around 7A second maybe 7B plus and if I don't feel warm maybe I have to do a third one around 7 7 C plus from 8 a is not warm up [Music] anymore [Music] I I try to warm up on a 7A and 7B plus and it's not enough if I feel that I'm not warm I I need another route and I I think I will do a 7c plus here but in the meantime while I'm resting after the 7B plus I can tell you why am I here in insbrook and what are my goals for the future and we actually moved to INB for 6 months is not that far from Arco but we decide to stay here full time with Sara because my goal this year will be the Olympic qualification so I'll try to qualify for the Olympics there will be two competition one in May and one in June and uh the first 10 of this competition we go to Paris in uh the Olympics in Paris for this reason we moved here because there is the one of the best gyms in the world uh especially for roots that's why I'm here right now training on some of the best routs Set uh there are many hard routes but today I'm going to focus on some easier routes because the goal of today is pure endurance so I will lower a bit the grade and do some doubles this is the the training that I will do today my second goal of this year will be to try again and climb silence if I qualify for the Olympics they will be in August and so after the Olympics there will be time for Norway as I did last year and so I will have time in August September maybe until mid October to try again silence the good thing is that I'm training hard now in both bouldering and lead and and this means that I I will maybe be in a good shape for silence that has like a hard Boulder but I need also a lot of endurance and this is why I'm here for both Olympics and silence and maybe in the next fall the third goal could be uh Wen of Dreams uh I will have time maybe after silence uh it depends also on how the two first goals go uh and so yeah that's why I'm training [Music] okay before I start answering your question I would just like to remind you to subscribe to my channel and I was thinking since the Excalibur video just came out I'd like to publish the uncut version of the video so I thought about I can publish it if I reach 100,000 subscriber I'm quite close I think I'm 95,000 so it's just 5,000 more that you need to subscribe and then I will publish the Xcalibur uncut send footage okay let's start with the with your questions uh luati who's asking during pre-competition training do you do a lot of on-site routs or just train endurance uh this is a good question because I can talk about what I'm doing now and what I do closer to the competition so what I do now is uh build some more endurance and the training that I'm doing today is doubles so I will climb two routs in a row usually I select something hard but not on my limit I think I will go the first one around 8B the second one around 80 plus so the second one slightly easier than the first one this is what I do at the beginning of my of my training at the beginning of the year right now there are few months till the the competition so I'm doing this more or less once a week and the other kind of training is more uh onsite routs so similar to what I found in a competition uh which with other routs like 8C plus maybe 9A 8C h8c plus 9A there are many here but I won't try them today just immediately before the competition I would just do like on side routes not this kind of training but since we are far from competition now I will try to build as much endurance as I can with easier routs from dzel any tips tricks for building endurance how do you know it's improving how do you track this uh okay this I think something that I changed from last year is now that I'm keeping track of everything I do uh last year I was just training and then see how it goes this year I'm trying to be a a bit more scientific about this and I'm using uh this watch to keep track of everything is corus watch and this is made for climbers so as a climbing up integrated a climbing activity integrated and is very easy to use for lead training because you just start and then it keep strule all your roots it outo detect when you start with the altitude and outo detect when you go down and you rest so at the end of the training I can see how many routes I did how much longer um I it took to climb one route compared to another and uh it has also headr monitor integrated in the watch but while climbing uh sometimes I don't wear the watch during warmup I wear the watch because I I don't really care but during like harder climb with big volumes I don't wear the watch I just put it in the harness and I have a heart rate monitor in my arms that I'm using like for all the trainings so I can keep track of my heart rate and this is a way to see if I'm improving or not for example if I try the same route now and in one month and check the heart rate if the heart rate is going like is lowering is uh going a bit down it means that I have more endurance for sure there are two ways to keep track of uh my improvements the the first one is if I'm going higher in a route but it also means maybe that I know the route better if I try the same route the second if if my heart rate is lower so I'm keeping track of everything right now I'm at the beginning of the year uh towards the mid the middle of the year I can see better closer to the competition if I improved and so I can change my training due to that at the end of this video I will show you the datas that we collected today so we can see how how it goes and maybe in the next training for the next video we can compare the datas so I hope I answer your questions and uh uh the next set of question I will do after the first set of the double roots I will do right [Music] now [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] all no [Music] fore okay nice okay now I go down and start immediately on a a pass hopefully I won't fall oh [Music] [Music] [Music] sh out okay okay this was much easier and yeah the problem with the 8B was that I was on site so 8B on site could be pretty hard even if it was the first route this is was on side to but was much easier so I think I will try again the 8B maybe change the a plus I need to think about it and try to be a bit more balanced but I feel quite pumped with two roots in a row so I think was really good work and it's it it is okay to fall as soon as you start again and climb to the top or even like one or two quick thrs below the top is it okay if you fall in the middle you just go and continue the climbing like if anything happen Okay Okay after the first set I'm resting 15 minutes which is not long especially if you're like super pumped to recover well I think you need more time but in this specific training it's good to rest not fully rest and so I have like few minutes to answer your uh uh other question there are a lot so thank you very much for answering no for no see thank you very much for your question I'll answer if do you have more question you can ask in the comments here I'll try to answer uh with a comment uh in the meantime uh Julian uh 17 hbr asks uh how often do you train endurance in the week uh so in this period of the year I'm training uh twice a week urance and three or four times power and so as I said one time I will do this kind of training and one time more uh like specific routes onite routes and harder routes I think it is better to focus uh a bit more on power like three power and two endurance because you always need power anyway uh in like even in like wrong routes if there's like a move that is hard you will always need power and you don't always need endurance uh just if you're trying like Roots long routs but if you're just ping for sure you don't need this kind of endurance you need like power endurance which is another aspect that I train one or two times per week one question related to this is from from silverin is can you train endurance and Power in the same session uh normally I would say no because it's better to uh separate things but uh for some specific case like training for the Olympics for example that will there will be bouldering and Lead climbing in the same day in the same competition I think it could be useful to do a mixed training between uh Boulders and Lead so power and endurance in the same training I will do first some power training because it's much more useful to train power when you're rested when you have a a lot of power and you can use all all of it if you're pumped and not well rested then train power is not very useful for this reason it's better maybe if you can train in the same session like in the morning and in the afternoon I would do one power sens in the morning and some endurance in the afternoon but usually I try to split the trainings so I can focus on just one aspect of training at a time any specific endurance training besides climbing you would recommend uh I mostly do everything on the wall but there's one specific training uh in on the hangboard where you hang for 7 second and rest for 3 second this for 2 or 3 minutes I think I did a video or I can do a specific video about this so you will get pumped on the hangboard with this training I think could be useful if you don't have a climbing wall or even a boering wall uh you just have a hangboard maybe you are on holiday or you are at home and you don't want to go to the gym because you already trained during the other days of the week one once per week this training can be done this this is in italan I can translate from Antonio otana he ask that is just a small he has just a small board to train if he can train Endurance on a small board and the answer is yes you you can even train Endurance on a hangboard so on a ball board you can focus on circuits uh I think if you can train on would be better because it's similar to what you find on the Rock but uh I often do circuits on a wall on like a spray wall full of holes try to set some like many moves from 30 to 50 and try to emulate what climbing is so set a circuit and try to send it there are some differences between this and Lead climbing and yeah but uh I think it's almost time to get prepared I can explain it after my next [Music] session [Music] [Music] o [Music] okay [Music] yes [Music] [Music] w okay okay it this was hard before the last set I was talking about training Endurance on a small wall like on a buing wall or a spray wall and this is something that I usually do I do circuits I set for example one circuit about about 30 to 50 moves I try the single moves and see if it's possible and then I try I start trying it and depending on what I want to try maybe outside or some for some competition I try to set the circuit as similar as possible on what I'm going to do for my goal on circuits you climb usually much faster than on routes for example a 30 moves route it could take around maybe 5 to 6 minutes but a 30 move circuit it would take like 2 minutes so it's much faster one thing I can you can do is to do some uh POS circuit so every move you stop for 3 seconds and do the next move then stop 3 second and do the next move in this way it is more similar to what you do on rock climbing or even on like indoor routs because when you climb and you go up and you need to clip there is like more time uh while you are stuck in a in in a position you you're stopped in a position and with circuit you could do this training I did one training like this in my highlighted story on Instagram you can check there are a lot of information about this training it is very useful and uh it is very very pumpy so if you don't have a lead route like here in insbrook you have just uh you just have a small wall even a very small wall you can do this up and down and it's like very pumpy and very good for endurance Bry senix is asking how important do you think pure endurance is for competition uh I I think like 30 years ago was just pure endurance uh Now The Roots in competition are changing uh there are many more components like big volumes jumps even some tricky moves sometimes or powerful moves so right now it is important for sure especially for the last part of the route because usually the the last part of the route is like pure endurance maybe some smaller holes where you're super pumped so if you have like a good endurance it is it would be very important for competition but now it it is much more complex in my opinion for a route would be better to have maybe 70% endurance 30% power maybe from my experience so you you have to have enough power to do the moves uh in a way that that it doesn't take too much from you and you can do some even harder or weirder moves that you can find now in some competition routes you will never find a Super H like a a day move AA Boulder move in a route in a workup route for sure endurance I think is is still the main component for competition climbing and and that's why I'm still competing because I this is my strength endurance this one is not related to endurance training but Thomas Cole ask me asked me how can I get over uh fear of falling okay this is something more related about U to rock climbing or climbing even indoor but uh lead climbing I think having fear is normal in climbing it is part of like human behavior or part of human instinct so we cannot like completely cancel and delete the fear we just need a way to uh put it in uh put it away just forget about fear my secret my trick is to focus on the goal so for example I set the goal is to climb a route is to top the route if you are focused and you want to send the rout you don't have fear the fear comes when you maybe just trying the moves you go over the bolt and you're you're afraid of falling because you you're focus on falling and not on the goal the goal could be also going to the next quick throw uh climb the next few meters you can have intermediate goals that let you um put uh fear away and almost forget about fear if you focus on what you're doing on climbing on the moves and on the goals this is a trick and yeah there are still maybe one or two question but I have uh more time after my next set okay now I decided to change route at least the first route uh because like the 8 black 8B I already did it I want to change a bit it will be on site and will be this red 8B I don't know if I will do it but uh I want to change and uh I think this could be a good one CU seems like uh and do on space [Music] one [Music] [Music] f [Music] [Music] yeah [Music] [Music] no ah oh B okay I decide that this route was really good for endurance so I try this again instead of trying an NA plus even if I didn't do it I hopefully can do it on my second go in a in a row will be very [Music] hard [Music] [Music] yeah [Music] [Music] I think last question before the last set uh yeah I decided to do one more set because uh I think four was better than three and the last question is uh I think the there are more people asking for this and like we can take Dane Napier question uh he asked or she asked I don't know uh is it better to do four for four Boulders or two in a row routes uh so this is two in a row routs what I'm doing now another type of endurance training could be to do four Boulders in a row which is uh similar because you do something in a row but it's different so in that case I believe you train more uh cardio you train more uh your uh like body endurance and not your forearms endurance uh it is not something that I do very often I do sometimes uh you do like one Boer then another one then another one then another one in a row then rest few minutes for a few sets and yeah I would recommend this training uh I think maybe once a week to build a more uh complex like whole body endurance um more about your cardio endurance I don't like running I don't like do any cardio so once I think every month I do this kind of training uh but I think for Pure endurance like the one you need on routs it is better to do multiple routes or uh even circuits uh with this question I think I I am almost finished I do the last set try hard decide where to start and then will talk about uh uh keeping track of my training and we will show I will show you uh the datas that we collected today okay [Applause] sh [Music] [Music] [Music] oh [Applause] [Music] okay it's over at the end I did uh I tried eight routs uh like in couples and I think it's a pretty good training uh I was pretty pump at the end of the 80 plus the problem here was that I didn't watch it before and and I was on site and maybe I could have done it if I knew it but uh yeah I didn't know it now just check on my watch just okay we can see well what are the datas about these routs and the Heart bit and we can compare it to the next training when I will do it will be interesting so I'm opening the corus up now and let's check okay the activities okay eight Roots here it say it is in Italian but because I'm using it in Italian but it's easy to translate okay this is today training I did eight routs uh okay it says that I climb 163 M which is cool and I climb for 32 M this is interesting because sometimes you just see how much do we climb like do we train like it I don't know it it was for 1 hour and it should be written here one second no problem okay uh time of the training is 1 hour and 54 but I didn't train for 1 hour and 54 I actually climbed for 32 minutes uh the max grade is 8B and I did 8 Falls and okay I fall like the highest fall was for 5 m and uh 5 m and 60 cm and my average uh heart bit was uh more or less 100 108 and8 so okay now here we can see the roots that I did if we open this chart we can see the root uh out to detect when I start and when I go down and at the end end of each route I need to put the the grade of the route that I just climbed so you can see I did first 8B + 8B 8+ on the third was 8B and 8 and the last one was 8B 8+ we can also open here the hard bit you can see it aligns to the to the roots that I did I think the highest that I reach was here in the second set we can check it was you can see here in the right 169 Okay the third set was maybe the easiest for me and then the last set was again quite High 160 yeah not on my limit because they were like not root at my limit I'm curious to try to show you the on rots like at my limit like XT plus 98 I did some in the past days I will maybe do another videos if you want uh I was showing the like the hardest route and now here you can see okay the altitude and the heartbeat I was like most of the time for 1 hour and 32 minutes uh below 128 heartbit and I was at like working on endurance you can see here endurance resisten uh okay and uh this is interesting to see also every route that I did if you was onite if it was red point I need to add it manually after the route and I'm many Falls did I do on each route so I did two falls in the first and then one and one and then I didn't fall in the 78b which was quite nice and here I can say it was quite hard maybe not at the Max uh uh like the hardest thing but it was hard and I can add not here um you can see I can write endurance training outside side this is pretty much all I'm curious to compare it to the next training I will uh register another training and I think I can put this datas in a l in a link below you can uh you can download them and check it out and see I'm I have no secrets so these these were all my secrets about my endurance training so you can even watch my my heartbeat and and everything and I don't remember if I mentioned coros is uh in collaboration with this video and so thank you coros for this collaboration and uh thank you guys for watching these videos remember to subscribe to my channel uh to watch the uncut video of Excalibur and see you on the next videos and on the next [Music] training

Channel: Stefano Ghisolfi

Views: 80,538

Keywords: climbing, climb, change, 9b+, flatanger, norway, klettern, escalade, escalar, grimper, 9c, silence

Id: xlQ2OreHL60

Length: 36min 55sec (2215 seconds)

Published: Mon Mar 04 2024