A Pair of Forge World Fixer Uppers

hey guys jay here welcome to eons of battle in this video i want to breathe new life back into my forge world tombstockers my first ever forward rolled models and stick around till the end to see a montage of finished models courtesy of the eob complete [Music] community these two tombstockers i bought back in high school and what an exciting time that was i'll always remember the magical day i received two big bags of models and on a side note what other company gets away with selling models by the bag but anyway i labored over these models scouring the interwebs for any tips and hints i could find as i did not want to screw them up i washed these models in a popcorn bowl of soapy water as they were too big for anything else not only was this my first experience with four drilled resin but it was my first experience with resin i started in hard mode i threw myself at these models i cleared my penny schedule as i had never spent so much money all at once on models and i was scared that if i did not just do it i never would have the courage to paint them never feel that my skills matched how cool these models were i cranked these out and was pretty happy with the results i see now the error of my color selecting ways these leggy boys suffer from the same fundamental flaw that all of my old necrons suffered from white light blue and gunmetal are not a very striking color combination and made everything look rather bland and it didn't help that they were on white snowy bases too big old but if you saw our 10 000.1 week army painting challenge video here you know that my necrons have since gotten a sexy rework and i will be painting these guys up to match to fix my tombstockers and reanimate them in all their glory i will be working in four parts i have to rebuild or find some of the broken and missing parts i have to fix up the paint job taking what i did in high school and giving it the full might of my accumulated painting knowledge and experience after that i will be applying approximately two and a half million decals and finally building a pair of awesome bases that really help the models shine these fellows are from forage world and for those of you who might not know forge world is a division of games workshop responsible for making compatible kits with games like 40k ages sigmar and middle earth the wikipedia page for games workshop explains forage world as making complementary specialist resin miniatures and conversion kits and that's a pretty good summary but is it still true forge world is getting more and more expensive without getting more and more better games workshop love them or hate them they are crushing it new products most days it feels like youtube videos product trailers and new games no matter how lukewarm you are on some new release it's probably someone else's model of the year compared to that forge roll is an interesting beast you could say forge world is where 40k goes to get weird with it with models like the necron centipedes chaos flying shrimp eldar ghost soldiers and crew dinosaurs forge world has been supplying 40k with weird and wacky for a while now but maybe its glory days are behind it with models being released with no warning and more frequently being discontinued with no warning questionable rules that make them unfriendly to play and no real synergy with the 40k codexes and on top of all that kit's getting a 15 to 20 mark up here in the states i feel like forgerold has lost its charm and they don't even corner the market with oddities anymore games workshop is getting in on the weird and wacky models lately with the davinci and flying machines robot cowboys flamethrower floating pulpits and uh this it seems like forge world is losing what little ground it had and i assume its days are numbered but that's enough talk of the why of these models now it's time to talk about the how to paint of these models the first step in getting my tomb spiders ready to rock and roll is to fix any parts that are broken or missing unfortunately a couple of parts are missing but luckily i am a hoarder so i have all the extra bits that i was given back when i originally bought them uh there are some things though like this guy's antenna i'm missing and this little fella don't break don't break the brick there we go is missing one of his butt pincers so i'll have to build a new one of those you can glue the old leg on and boom i should have cleaned the mold lines off of that before i glued it on now time to work on number two well my stockers are all cleaned up and now it's time to fix the broken bits or rather rebuild the broken bits i think i'm going to do two antennas i'm just gonna gut this one and then i need to build a butt pincer and i hope i have just the right plastic card ought to do it for the antenna and then for the butt pincer i need something kind of thick or do i glue two of these together well i'll start with the antenna all right i want to build a new antenna so i've got to get rid of the old antennas so here we go yeah one two this came off really easy i thought that'd be a little bit more of a hassle all right time to rebuild them out of plastic to make my antenna i traced what i could of the four drill antenna and drew on the rest with a pencil i gave it my best guess as my forge rolled part was a twisted mess but i carefully cut out my new antenna with many long shallow cuts of an exacto knife go slow if you press too hard you'll have a difficult time keeping your cut straight i sanded the antenna smooth with my nail file working slowly it would be so easy to put the pedal to the floor and bend the tiny piece of plastic or worse yet snap it now that i had one antenna it was easy to make a second i traced it and then performed all the same operations to cut it out and smooth it i added some more plastic onto my antenna at the base this added bulk will help give them a little more texture some more tech gubbins i trimmed it with my hobby nippers and used a knife and nail file to get it just right i sanded the top smooth and then trimmed a bit of the antenna away to make it look like a long strand was coming out of a metal follicle so now the only thing left is to build one butt pincer and then these guys will be ready to repaint to make the butt pincer i did a very similar activity tracing the shape off the four drill part that looked the best then carefully cutting it out it could be a good idea to make a few and then pick the best one but i yellowed it once the shape was cut i went in with a lot of filing some dremeling and hobby knifing to get it ready for showtime [Music] i pinned the puny pincer in place and had a complete model for the first time in years the only thing left is a couple of antenna all right gentle the new antenna are amazing and wow what a difference having them actually complete and looking good ah so excited and i'm so glad the building is done so now i get to do the fun part which is painting it is really interesting to look back and see all of the different things i did back in the day it kind of brings me back to those moments when i was washing these in the sink putting them all together putting the paint on trying out things with my old ebay airbrush and all those memories are coming back with the models done it was time to paint i love painting so much and it helps when the models are this cool i'm gonna be painting these the same way i did my necron reanimator from in dummatus and even though i painting i'm painting white i'm gonna be using black primer this is the first paint going on there since high school i'll forever be covering up my old paint job but i think i can do better now as of this moment there's no going back the triwizard tournament has begun wow it's kind of trippy to see models that i've owned for pretty much my entire wargaming career now uh re-primed black but they're ready for step two which is to bring them back up to white and to do that i'm going to use some formula p3 which is just gray some fenrisian gray which is a light blue gray and then some pure white and that should make them shine i have mostly given up priming models in any color other than black i just find that it often is counterproductive when i prime with white and gray it just doesn't get the shadows and crevices as dark as i want them to be and i hate to have to go back and darken them manually it feels like a waste of time so i've got my tombstockers base coated and i want the carapace to be black and i would hate to do it with a brush it's one of my least favorite things to base coat with a brush so since i've got it i got an airbrush but i also don't want to mask the entire model so it's time airbrush now this technique would work with any card magic the gathering star wars collectible card game yu-gi-oh now if you use a limited edition or foil card it will actually mask much better but i'm just going to use a a common this trick of using old magic cards to mask areas worked a treat it was a bit risky for the card jokes aside it was risky that i might miss and get paint somewhere that i didn't want it but that was a risk i was willing to take it let me work fast especially on this model that would have been near impossible to mask with putty tape or masking fluid and hopefully that saved me enough time so that i can now edge highlight every single one of these little carapaces to give my necrons an otherworldly glow i like to edge highlight all the black armor with red trim which i then further accent with orange and spots of yellow at each corner what helps me edge hallett is a brush with long bristles it holds more paint juice while giving me plenty of brush edge to run along my models well it made some good progress on my tombstockers and now i think they're going to need a stripe for me to put all my decals on now on my old color scheme i used silver which didn't stand out that much from the white but for this i am using some vallejo liquid copper it's really important to put a gloss coat or a matte varnish over your your liquid golds because they're alcohol-based and they have real metal pigments and i actually do have some models in the past that i applied this paint last so that it would still have the richest luster but it actually has oxidized over time so definitely need to put a varnish over this but i'm gonna put a little this on a model and it should look really striking really oh come on come on now really there we go there she goes there you're gonna want some alcohol preferably 99 but 91 i found gets the job done and i like these hard pallets that have little round cups in them so what i do is i fill up one cup and then i put a few drops in another one then i use a pipette to take the liquid copper out of the bottle i never put a brush or anything in this because i don't want to expose the entire batch of paint to water or oxygen or anything that could hurt it and then this is alcohol-based paint so i find it really likes to wick in your paintbrush so you want your decent but disposable synthetic you'll probably get a few uses out of it but it does tend to really do a number on brushes so don't use your you know kalinski sable brushes for this so i'm painting stripes with this copper and i'm gonna get kind of one shot at it because uh it's gonna be annoying to fix it so paint inside the lines paint inside the lines do not screw up the copper color because it'll be a pain in the butt oop well okay cool that stripe's just going to be a little fatter than the other ones but i think i think i'm liking what this is doing especially once the decals are on there i think this is going to look tip top i always find that these vallejo liquid gold paints are perfect one and dones but are tricky to highlight further i did my best by giving the top of each stripe a bit of silver in the middle and on each panel i gave a blob of gold this made the copper stripe a bit more interesting to look at i think the copper turned out great and i think the next step is going to be doing an oil wash i slapped the oil onto the model and immediately thought to myself oh no this might have been a mistake this model is so many little nooks and crannies not only did it take forever to brush the oil on but the crazy number of legs made it near impossible to get the oil off well it wouldn't be a painting project if something didn't go unexpected um the oil looks all right i think the rough surface of the four drilled resin it's holding a little bit more wash than i would like it to but it still looks alright but i think on this second one i'm gonna give it a give it a bath of good old-fashioned known oil and we'll see which one looks better my thought process was the null oil was much lighter and would give me a less dramatic effect it would not hide the subtle transitions i made for myself with the airbrush but well the oil and the null and oil are completely dry and i don't know if either of them were particularly successful the oil probably did a better job of washing but unfortunately from handling it getting my brush into every nook and cranny the handling did force me to rub off a little bit of paint which isn't catastrophic it's a little disappointing but i can always add more paint it's hard to completely ruin a paint job and then with the null oil it did not darken my model up as much and i do kind of like how it turned out but it's still going to need a little bit of white highlighting to get it exactly where i wanted and it left a couple of coffee stains on my carapace paneling i think maybe a selective wash in each joint would have been the smartest thing to do but too late now but i can totally go in with some white paint and brighten everything right back up to where i want it to be no harm done i thinned down some white paint with a drop of matte medium and slowly brought back up my white necron color scheme even though my wash was a bit of a step backward it was a good learning experience washes work wonders on models that are nice and smooth but can get trapped in all the wrong places on grainy models now back on track i broke out the airbrush and red ink i did a simple airbrush osl object source lighting on all the necron glowy energy bits then i broke back out the pokemon cards for one last masking job and gave all my necron gas weapons a spatter painting of orange and yellow with the airbrush well the paint job on these tombstockers is finally finished and they are looking spectacular now before we deep dive on decals i want to take a moment to talk about the eob patreon if you enjoy our videos the best way to support us is by becoming a member of our patreon over there you'll get access to some behind the scenes voting on what models i paint live here on youtube extra live streams every week and more now let's tackle those troublesome decals decals one of my all-time favorite hobby tools they look great they can save you hours and hours of free handing and they're super easy but it's really easy to screw them up as well decals really are harder than they look i have seen games workshop do a poor job of it as you can see on this monolith they look cloudy and bad the artist either let the decal soak too long and the adhesive washed away or the textured surface on the model let air get trapped underneath the plastic sheet of the decal decals may be challenging but nothing a bit of experience can't solve whenever i'm applying decals i like to add a gloss varnish underneath to really help make sure that the decal can get a good seal on top of the model you want as flat and shiny a surface as possible i cut out the decal i wanted and one thing i find helpful particularly on game's workshop decals is to cut away all of the decal that i don't need i took a ruler and carefully cut away everything except the decal these strips look to be the perfect size to go on top of my tombstocker's copper stripes i trimmed them down so i had just what i needed and the best way i have found to hydrate my decals is to set them on the sponge of my wet palette or in my case a paper towel and let it soak up the water it should only take about 30 seconds to get fully hydrated and the second you can feel the decal slipping and sliding on top of the paper it's ready to apply i coated the area with some micro sole decal medium and i let the decal stick itself to the model and then pulled away the paper i had a few seconds to poke it into place and then left it alone to dry i actually find applying decals very satisfying it takes some work but it also looks great and it doesn't take that long either decals are challenging but i would advise anyone to give it a shot you'll probably mess up frequently like i did but after a few dozen or a few hundred you'll become a natural eventually you will become a decal surgeon and be able to get those decals right where you want them the only thing left is to slather on a few more coats of gloss varnish what this is going to do is it's going to break up that plasticky edge that super flat plastic edge of the decal i usually keep applying layers until i just cannot spot the edge of the decal anymore ah gw should do a plastic kit of these they need to bring them back the paint job might be done but i'm not quite done yet the next step is rebuilding wow that kicked off a lot of debris the next step is gonna be fixing up their bases the first thing to do is going to be removing the grass tufts from before but i'm going to be applying all the new stuff just right on top of the old bases i want to add a little extra height so come on now does not want to let go that's probably as clean as it's gonna get i wanted to try out using tinfoil to make some elevations and it seemed to work great i tried gluing it down with some super glue which did not work then i switched to tacky glue which also did not work this was a learning experience i smash it into shape with everything around me remember every tool can be a hammer the tin foil is amazing stuff i'm really liking how it's building up some simple shapes really easily and it's incredibly light but i'm not thinking the tacky glue or super glue is going to be the thing that sticks it down i also think i'm just going to have an easier time of it if i do remove the old the old base completely i think hot glue is actually going to be the thing to use which is crazy i don't use hot glue for a lot of wargaming projects but sometimes it is the absolute best thing for the job i am so happy with how the tin foil looks but i think it still needs a little something and that something is birch bark birch bark works wonders to be scale rock and uh and like stone it's really good for making nice nice natural elevations i applied some bark with hot glue making one raised part for each base i love how organic this part of the process is i just let my creativity flow and future me will bring it all together once i was happy with my bark i took some more tin foil and used it to blend my old tinfoil hills into the birch bark rocks one of my favorite methods for quickly filling in some spots on the base is kitty litter super glue baking soda so i've got this giant rock that's got a lot of surface area in the front so i just pour on some kitty litter now you want to use fresh kitty litter but use will work in a pinch and i just drip on some super glue and the super glue just like cat pee will bond the kitty litter together and it'll create a nice hard shell and boom just like that i have filled in that huge space in front of the rock and if you want to dry a little bit faster you can sprinkle on some baking soda which is an activator for the cyanoacrylite super glue and will help it to dry pretty much instantaneously now it's time to apply some sand i started by coating my bases with a layer of wood glue so for applying sand i always like to work heaviest to lightest in terms of grit so i'm going to put on a few flakes of slate and then i'm going to go to my medium pebbles and then i'm going to go to my fine grain sand and so now that i've applied my bigger parts i can now fill everything up with the fine grain sands with my bases dry and looking pretty slick it is time to paint them and you know what i don't think i need a primer i won't tell if you don't but i'm just going to give them a coat of some vallejo dark sand like i do all of my necron bases is a primer important sure is it gonna matter i don't think so once about two coats of this have dried and there's a nice varnish on top i think it'll all be fine it took about two thin coats to get my bases looking properly yellow then it was time to apply some weathering pigments i really like how this red pigment changes the look of my yellow earth and gives it a natural yet otherworldly finish i spread it down thickly in the recesses and kept it off of the raised areas giving a modeled yellow red look my necrons are right at home on this orange alien world getting right down to the end i'm going to paint the rim of the base and i'm not painting it black but i'm going to paint it gray anybody who thinks that you have to paint the edge of the base black can fight me i get that the the idea of the black base rim is like well we've all picked black as the color that we ignore doesn't break immersion for our little plastic toy soldiers that we play with honestly the basing that works perfectly in every situation is clear bases so but not very many people are a big fan of clear bases and to take any base from good to great it needs some grass tufts i think grass tufts are the perfect way to add some nice pizzazz to an otherwise maybe bland or just less interesting base i find that the with at least with gamer grass the self adhesion is pretty good but if you find that they're not quite sticking a drop of super glue works great and if you find that a tuft is too big you can just go ahead and chop it in half or in thirds or in quarters with your hobby knife and spread it out evenly across the base if you're someone who doesn't love basing i would say grass tufts are your ticket to awesome bases with no effort i love tufts and the more the merrier my orange alien planet is looking much more lively with a bunch of foliage and that's not an earth bush that's an alien bush finally it was time to glue down my models i applied a nice drop of superglue to each leg i don't know if this is the best solution but it is certainly a solution with my stalker super glued onto the base we'll see how good that super glue holds up to time it seems like it's on there pretty good now but i might need to insert some sort of a rod up into the body but it's time to apply a nice coat of matte varnish and call these fellas done these guys look fantastic bigger than spiders and leggier than wraiths i'm gonna call them the twins and i hope to get them in many many games of 40k their rules are okay for 90 points you get a nine wound monster with four to eight shots of strength five ap minus one and six punches of strength seven ap minus two they could do some moderate damage with their weapon skill ballistic skill four but wait weapon skill ballista skill four no way no way trumpf yes even though they are one of the biggest and strongest of the canaptec arachnid constructs they are just as clumsy only landing attacks fifty percent of the time but so what i didn't buy these guys because they were competitive i bought them because they are sweet and there's no denying them that so what if a lowly necron warrior is a better swordsman these guys are massive monsters and i'm sure they will strike fear into the hearts of my opponents i am so happy to have my flagship forge rolled models for my necron army perfect they had been languishing in mediocrity for so long but now they look glorious alongside the rest of the necron forces they would make a great addition to any necron list but particularly i'm excited to field a oops all canoptec list for my necrons and they just look so glorious my necron army now has a wonderful centerpiece and i can't wait to take it in many many games of 40k well that's all for this video i hope you enjoyed watching me resurrect some forge filled models as much as i loved doing it maybe it's time to go give one of your old models a little tlc and with that said now it's time for eob complete we put out a challenge to our community to send us before and after photos of their recently finished models to be immortalized in our videos if you want to join in the fun you can submit a before and after photo of your painted mini to our discord server which you can find in the description below or you can post it to instagram with the hashtag eob complete without further ado let's look at and get inspired by what the folks have finished this week some flesh terrors by will paints things a dreadnought by rick painting models a putrid blight king by kevin muhammad some blood bowl markers by the watcher in the dark 85 some b1 battle droids by just young a you a plague terminator by just add humans 40k whip diary some chaos space reigns by color selassie some space wolf terminators by lawrence bostock the silent king by dr dead man a terminator by zilch follower some phase two clone troopers by wolf pack a necron psychomancer by marvelous miniature terrain a rebel force ghost by the happy heretic a castle by orange a chaos captain by td a primaris hell blaster by vega wusky a pox walker by brugga taloda an old school chaos warrior by mommy negan a night lord terminator by argyris and a kermit with a chainsaw by arnold de ganz congratulations to everyone for a job well done it's no small feat to get paint on minis and you all should feel really proud nothing gets the hobby juices flowing like finishing a project and we thank you for sharing your work motivating us and the hobby community to paint our plastic thanks for sharing

Channel: EonsOfBattle

Views: 102,238

Keywords: eonsofbattle, eons, of, battle, warhammer, warhammer 40k, warhammer 4000, 40k, video, game, play, fun, paint, learn, tutorial, diorama, painting, design, base, basing

Id: gL2P8bLRhto

Length: 27min 14sec (1634 seconds)

Published: Wed Apr 21 2021