A BAD Resole Job on These Crockett & Jones Chukka Boots | We Refurbish Them Correctly

[Music] ladies and gentlemen welcome back today we have a pair of chukka boots from Crockett & Jones that we are gonna resell for a customer who brought him in she brought him in to have them resold for her husband and one of the things that we noticed that they had been resold before and the resale was pretty much a botched job it was a 360 well and the stitching was just all over the place not even on the welt some of it was sanded off on the sides and it wasn't just in a few places it was like pretty much but she's halfway around the shoe and so I was kind of surprised that me another cobbler would actually do that I hand it back and then take money for it and so this kind of brings down another subject that at this on this channel we really want to promote the idea of buying shoes that are made to be recraft at higher quality and you can then develop a relationship with a cobbler whether it's your local cobbler or you know metal off service we really want you to focus on getting a shoe that can be handed over to not really just a cobbler but also a cobbler who is qualified so while there are a lot of good mom-and-pop cobblers out there you have to also do your research and ask around who other people recommend and sometimes you know it's kind of a gamble but you do want to you know develop a relationship with somebody that you trust with your shoes that are made to be resold because a lot of these are gonna be higher in higher quality made shoes so on that note let's try to save these Crockett & Jones all right so here's a little closer look at what's going on you probably weren't able to see this much on the turntable but here is the welt and you see the stitches are literally in the block they're not even on the well all the way around the other boot is actually even worse than this it's kind of all the way around and you can see it's got a storm well a midsole and the outsole here so let me explain real quick why this happened the well only has so much of a lip for the machine to stitch new stitches on and when it's coming out of the factory they've stitched it they've sanded it and then the the next cobbler you know he sands it before he stitches it and he sanded a little too much off the toe around the hill and a lot of times this is work can be kind of short and there wasn't much of a lip left to do it also if they don't pull out the previous stitches then it also takes up some of that room for you can't the stitch can't create a clean hole through there so that's another good reason why you want your cobbler to remove those old stitches now what the cobbler should have done is either replace the welt or now I don't recommend this unless it's like a last case emergency and always talk to the customer if they don't want to replace the welt then you could always turn it into a black stitch shoe and stitch it from the inside but I don't recommend that just because it's just replaced the well that's usually the best way but that's kind of a last-ditch emergency option so let's get started it's got used a lot of glue in this say this wasn't even stitched for those asking about shanks would shank and sometimes people wonder they see little things of plastic like what's all this plastic in here during the making process they will put it in the shrink wrap the whole butt or shoe well let's get the last minute they put it in the shrink wrap plastic they've just to protect it from getting dirty and then they stitch the well time and after they're done they get a fine knife and cut that plastic off so that's just three remainder of that here's the court cork was just glued to the Dickens to this midsole so when they came off all the cork went with it it makes it easier for me actually cuz I got to replace it and I'll have to dig it out alright so let's take this well off so they'll not the welts all these stitches are just the inner part of the stitching that held on so we'll just pull all these out and it'll expose our hulls for we'll reuse those holes to put the new well done alright so we've got the welt off all the strings are pulled out cavity we're gonna put a little bit of glue up underneath this shank just to make sure that it's a it's down tight and we've already got the new storm welts died and we're gonna start stitching that now it's kind of a long process so you probably won't see all of it but you'll see enough of it and you'll get the gist of it come on all right so we've got a new well-toned got all the corked out removed the shank that's a new glue in here and we're gonna put this on and then recore kit and then we will get from there a lot of people ask about pork you can actually use sheet pork like this a lot of the spoke shoemakers still use sheet cork a lot of stuff you used to seeing in there that's just mass-produced shoes that comes out in a big hopper and then they hot iron it flat but it's the same as genuine cork all right so we have put the new cork into the Academy in the bed sanded smooth and put our first coat of glue on we're gonna put a midsole on top of this and then after that we're gonna put some Baker so leather this is out off demonsaw England it is the last oak bark Pitt tan tannery in Britain and most of the shoes coming out of Northampton England are using some Baker so this is some very very good good leather and so if any of you guys have English made shoes when I'm resold this is a good choice for you let's go so this is the midsole and we've already roughed up both sides just so the glue can get down in there and after this we'll put our L so on all right so this is the midsole and it's exactly what it sounds like it goes midway between the welt the and the outsole and it's just another layer some she used a lot most use don't have a midsole it's strictly the sole is on top of the welt and the cork and off she goes but some have an extra layer in and some actually have a thinner oak mark and it's actually a double stacked so it comes in different thicknesses but this is the same thickness as the original so we're put some glue on this and then we'll put our biker leather on top of this [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] so we're gonna channel this and unlike some Crockett & Jones this one actually comes with a open channel instead of a closed Channel and so you can actually see the exposed stitches now for my understanding and for any of you guys out there or ladies that know the answer to this make sure you leave it in the comments I think it's their hand great or their the hand grade is has a closed channel the bench grade does not have all the bells and whistles like that so I've got a pair of Crockett & Jones that were actually a contract but they were a [ __ ] grade contract and they had a closed Channel but that may be because they were a contract so if you know the answer to that or can confirm that then let us know so simply when it goes to the machine sometimes the little metal that just kind of pushes up crazy little lip then we can do it with our burnishing stick alright so for those who haven't seen some of our other videos we use this oak dowel and just kind of slick the leather kind of some smooths out some of the imperfections feels like glass application I like to do it when there's a little bit of moisture left in the soul as we wet it from the stitching process so this is just an alcohol burner and anytime you're doing fudge wills or punking wheels or any type of decorative even your irons your heel irons and your edge irons it's just best to heat them up and it looks cleaner [Music] okay so we are actually replacing his Hill blocks the originals were fine they were stacked leather but they were just a little because I put on any new well and haven't sanded down the original hill block was just a tiny bit thinner just a matter of millimeters and I didn't want to sand it down that much so I just put on a fresh one and it'll it'll fit just fine all right so we have got our block stone got a new top lip stone we press those and we're gonna trim this excess and sand them down and put some tacks in there some coloring and then we'll get to the uppers all right so I'm gonna start working on the uppers of these Crockett & Jones they were in pretty rough shape I could have just used a saddle soap and tried to clean them up some and put some cream on there and that would have done a really good job and gotten these back to looking much better I don't think you've done a whole lot of conditioning on these leather shoes because I've already taken acetone and you know wiped over these shoes just to try to pull off a lot of the dirt and the excess cream and pigment and whatnot and hardly anything came off on my rag so that shows just how worn out these leather uppers were but what we're gonna do like I said I've already put a stone on them already sanded down some of the spots that were really rough up here on the toes just a really high grit sandpaper I know you probably wanted to see me do that but there's really not much to it like I said it's just very light sandpaper just lightly sanding it and it smoothes a lot of that down so now what I'm going to do is put a lot of the colors back or color back into this upper and then condition the shoes really well put another shoe cream on them and just go from there and make these look much better so let's get to it all right so what I'm going to do now is just put the leather dye on here we use fiebing's dye we've got it in these little bottles here but that's because we also use a spray gun a lot of times and we'll go back and do some of that but that's we're using the tan color [Applause] [Applause] all right so these boots have the dye on them or should I say the dye is dried now what we're going to do is just put some conditioner on there some shoe creams maybe a little wax coat or two of wax or on the boot as well as on the toes and just make these look a little better on the uppers and that should be about it as you can see as I'm doing this that it kind of darkens the leather in some spots but that's no biggie because all that's doing is just sucking in all that moisture from the conditioner and once it has absorbed all of that absorbed all of it then it'll dry and go back to its normal color so you ever see or shoot do that don't panic again it usually only does that when your shoes or your boots are really dry and they haven't been conditioned in a while so here's what they're looking like after dyeing them and just putting on some random a - or you can see the color and just the moisture is back in that boot I think what I'm going to go with is the cognac color in the modality or cream or the plum adir cream and put a little bit more color into it so let's see how this looks [Music] again we get a lot of questions asking you know if you should use a Dawber like this one or whether you should use a rag or whatnot as you've seen if you watch any of our other videos we really mix it up sometimes I'll use a table or sometimes I'll just use an old rag it's really it's really up to you so whatever floats your boat all right so we've gotten the cream onto the shoes we buffed them off now what I'm going to do is add a little bit of the dark brown wax to the toes and maybe the hill area and just bring out a little bit of a patina look on the toes in the back and that should just about wrap these boots up and then we'll show you the final product all right so that wraps up this reso love this pair of Crockett & Jones honking boots again this is just the the reason why you want to buy a high-quality well-made shoe because even though there are things that were completely blown out especially the weld after the last race so it can be read can be taken off and and and haven't you put back on and you you know when you midsole and you port new hill blocks I mean a well-made shoe can be deconstructed and then put back together so a little rundown of what we did to this one we did put a new storm well done replace the midsole with an actual veg tan actually the other one wants veg tan as well as the hill blocks were were stacked veget and as well but like I said they were just a little bit narrower than the new well that we had to sand down and kind of it was a few millimeters off so we we went ahead and just replace this with some new ones we put the British tan Baker up mark Pitt tan soles on those so again if you do have British made shoes this might be something that you want to look at for your shoes when they get resold and then we put some 8 millimeter combination Hills on there and then just finished it off with some brass tagging this one did have the open channel so we've left it the way the original wants and then the uppers weren't just gosh horrible shape and a lot of that was actually just due to the guy wearing it very hard for its work and so we went ahead and just stripped that down and put some new kind of blend of some colors on it to try to get it back to the original color or as close to it as we can but that's it there's the end result the before the after hope you like this if you do like it make sure you subscribe to the to our channel and hit the like button also make sure you're hitting that bell because we're having new videos come out all the time and then you'll get those poppin straight up onto your feed saying that there's and you went out so until next time y'all have a good one [Music]

Channel: Trenton & Heath

Views: 833,195

Keywords: #crockettandjones, #chukkaboots, #refurbishment, #shoerefurbishment, #leatherchukkas, #shoerepair, #bootrepair, #shoecobbler, #saphircream, #saphirrenovateur, #fixit, #shoehack, #badtogood, #craftsman, #shoeartisan, #asmr, #unintentionalasmr, #bootresole, #mensboots, #jrleather, #jrsoles, #bakerleather, #relaxingvideos, #howto

Id: pMrKC9JCDM8

Length: 30min 25sec (1825 seconds)

Published: Sat Jan 11 2020