A 2MT Backplate For The 80mm Self Centering 4 Jaw Tapping Chuck

right in this video I'm gonna show you how to make this 2mt taper back plate for the Sano 80 millimeter self centering Ford or Chuck and this is the Chuck that I use for a screw tapping shark it's an excellent Chuck you put the screw tap in the jaws on the actual square and this prevents it from spinning in the Chuck and the actual back plate can be made up very easily and quickly using this to empty soft machinable Arbor which you can buy on eBay I think I bought five of these from Kronos for a very good price and then there's this 80 millimeter mild steel disc is a far end it's eight millimeter thick and there's a seller I'm selling these on eBay at the moment using these two items you can easily make this back plate up so in this video you'll see the full process of me making this back plate up on the Chinese mini lathe and several tricks and things that I've learned to use to actually machine large-diameter work like this right so the first thing I do with making this back plate for this 80 millimeter Chuck is to use this disc which I got off of ebay it's listed as a 80 millimeter disc in it's 8 millimeter wide and you can actually see there is a bar end and has come from a machine shop or an engineering factory whatever was on there was parted off and this end is unmarked on the mini lathe the machine end on the actual back face of the jaws and on my lathe I'm using the 1 to 5 millimeter chuck I can't be bothered to actually change it over to the 100 millimeter Chuck by half if I had the 100 millimeter chuck up here I reckon this would probably hold on the front step of the jaws but because I'm using this one I have to hold on the back step and all that means is that I have to take extra care when I'm virtually facing this off that I don't actually crush the tall in the edge of the jaws another thing on the Chinese mini lathe this the cross slide won't come back far enough I could actually move the tool back further in the actual holder here but I'm not gonna do that because I'm going to overcome both problems using the same idea always I have to do is loosen the quick change tool post like that and put it at an angle so that I missed the edge of the jaws and I can face off safely and that's another great thing I like about these DCM to7 o2o4 insert tools because they have these angles and it's a narrow insert you can actually turn it a different angle quite a variety of different angles and it was still cut perfectly so that solved both problems I can get the tool back far enough now plus I can actually get it into the second step without actually crashing on the edge of the doors here and it's what we call in britain killing two birds with one stone and they always check first turn the chart to see that nothing is going to hit before i turn the machine on [Music] and that's cleaned up lovely so now I turn the wheel it round and I've got just enough on this side to actually face this end off and I'm not too worried about this end as long as one in this nicely cleaned up well I'm trying to tidy this end up as well so you can see there there's a bit of a dip there and it hasn't cleaned up quite in the center there but that doesn't matter because this is going to get drilled and bored out I just removed the PIP in the center there so that it doesn't put the center drill off and just to finish skin with this tall [Music] [Music] Elif mean that bought about 25 millimeter in diameter and I've deburred both ends with that scrape at all he just saw and I've actually left that bore a little bit line II and that's for the Loctite six three a so if you want to get a line you finished like that you have slow revs and move the boring bar through quite fast and then come out and come back to redundant as you touch on the way back and that gives a really good finish for Loctite six three eight to harden into so the two mt arbor that i've got with this soft head which i can actually turn down this is twenty eight millimeter and the bore is 25 millimeter so for about three millimeter to take off of this one to actually fit that bore so i put this one in the chuck now holding on roughly about probably about 300 thou on this diameter and actually clock this one in and that's within a thousand so now i've set my stop on the lathe and i want to turn this one down to actually fit that boy and then I'll further to undercut our back so that one now fits nice people the way down and with Loctite 638 you can have about 2,000 see if you want to so this one's gonna go right up hard against that shoulder so now I just mark the diameter and put a couple of grooves in there with the same tall for the Loctite six three a so now I fill those grooves with the Loctite 638 I haven't got a spout on the bottle of the Loctite 68 so I use this stick and then actually put it in there nicely and it doesn't matter how much you put on just make sure it's all covered and this 20 of Loctite 68 in those and grooves all the way around and I do actually put a little bit in the actual war of the other component so now that one can go down over there or twist it as it goes down and just hold that one in place for a few minutes and I'll go off rock solid and you can heat it up a little bit if you want to if it's cold where there just to make that go and all the while I'm doing this I haven't taken the arbor out of the drawers at all so everything remains the same and it's running dead crow so next I face the end of the arbor ah [Music] [Music] and I have actually left the Arbor about 10,000 that play and then I check the depth of the register on the chart and set my stop with the turning toll to actually go down the register on that one is about four millimeter D all as you need to do is go about two millimeter deep so this is the setup I've got my stop set and I've turned the tool post at an angle again so I can actually get out the diameter and now I'm ready to turn that register diameter to fit the ball on the back of the chart and it's all still running dick because I haven't taken it out from the truck at oh I've resented this end here and you'll see that I centered it when I was actually facing it off because it's much easier to face off into a small Hall than facing it off and then pushing the PIP at the end so now I can actually put the tailstock centre in there to give it more support when I'm doing the turning and I actually look at the back of the chuck and see roughly how far I've got to go down on the diameter but if you want to you can actually get something a disc or something that and size and then hold it on the front of this some disc here and go around it to give a rough guide of where you've got to go to and that's because you don't want to get to this stage and then actually make an error on this register and ruin the whole thing [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] and that one's bang on so now I'll let the stop in about 10,000 I'll just skim down the shoulder and that's the turning finished and because I'm only using this tail stock back plate with the 80 millimeter Chuck in the tail stock there's no need to do anymore to actually hold this flange on the arbor if you're going to use it in like a spindle and use it so you can actually turn with there it would actually be best to TIG weld around that diameter there on the front there and if you remember I said that it was about ten thousand you can use a tool like this it's a ball bearing in the end they're set in the end of a piece of mild steel and you can actually use this to actually swage that diameter on the actual r bar over by pressing it on the front with the spindle turning and this is a tool that I made up specifically for this type of thing so I touch on the join of that Arbor and the actual flange and then push the tool in quite hard on that face and it will actually swage that 10 towel over and you don't have to do that if you can just use it for the tapping track and now all those I have to do is get the drill holes in position for actually screwing the Chuck on to this back play and the saloon 80 millimeter for draw self centering chucks only have the screw thread on the back of the Chuck they don't live right the way through like on some chucks most of the chucks are like this now so you have to use transfer screws to actually transfer the inden onto the back plate ready for drilling and you can actually make these transfer screws very easily all it is is a grub screw and then an allen key that actually fits that grub screw you grind a piece off on the corner of our grinding wheel and do it to a point and then you screw the grub screw into the chart down to where it is nearly flush with the back face here and then drop that piece of pointed allen key in the hole there and then you can see from the side here that the points are protruding about one millimeter from the end face here you have to screw it down as as far as you can so this diameter the register diameter actually goes into the ball a little bit and you also have to feel to see whether those points are equally protruding from the back if they're not you can actually tip it like that so you have to find where it's nice and level like that one is now and then you put this into the bore and give it a whack on the top here with a copper mount and I have found the real dead accurate way of some actually grinding those pieces of allen key because these some six millimeter thread here and the yelling key is quite small what that is but the cutoff piece of allen key in a long grub screw like this one here and then just pretend this swarf figure 10 here is the wheel you put it onto the grinding wheel right there and spin it right there until it's a perfect point and surprising how accurate you can actually get those pieces and like I say with the six millimeter ones it's best to use a magnet to retrieve that piece so I can drop that one back in now incidentally I've made the eight millimeter set as well for the other size home chucks put that on the back and this is a thick aluminium plate table top here which I hold in my voice so you hold the back plate on the top like that nice and firmly and give it one quick tap for the copper mallet on the back there you can put a piece of wood on the back there if you want to but this won't harm it and then you have the three indents to drill for the through bore for the six millimeter screws or Allen bolts and that's a dead accurate method of actually getting the screw holes in the correct positions so that's the drilling finished and as I did was actually hold it in the vise like that and drilled through with a pilot drill then a six millimeter drill and in the finish off a clearance of seven millimeter and it is actually spot-on like I say from using those transfer screws the transfer screws are kept in there I picked these with my transfer punches ready for next time and I actually like this one much better than the original one that I made this one's much thicker here so on the mini lathes where room is limited this one is much thinner and allows me much more clearance on the tailstock and then I use stainless steel Allen bolt six millimeter and these were an inch long but I've cut them down to 18 millimeter long so you want the maximum amount of threads going through into the Chuck without it actually bottoming out and I think that's just about maximum and that's the job finished you

Channel: Steve Jordan

Views: 44,136

Rating: 4.8455391 out of 5

Keywords: sanou chuck, sanou self centering 4 jaw chuck, screw tapping, mini lathe thread cutting, mini lathe screw tapping, amadeal mini lathe, harbour freight mini lathe, clarke mini lathe, warco mini lathe, mini lathe screwcutting, mini lathe screw-cutting, screw tapping chuck, tapping chuck, thread tapping chuck, making a mini lathe backplate, mini lathe back plate, mini lathe upgrade, chinese mini lathe thread cutting

Id: y55_HZ24jWM

Length: 34min 38sec (2078 seconds)

Published: Fri Dec 21 2018