73-87 C10 Coilover Suspension Install -- Full

[Music] we've got our 87 c10 back in the shop today and we used it to develop the street grip system and now we're going to use it to develop the coilover system so we're putting on in one of the very first kits here today we do have access to a lift for this truck but since we have to start by taking the bed off it's going to be just as easy to remove the bed on the floor and do the rear suspension on the ground you know me I'll go ahead and start on doing the taillight wiring harness and all that good stuff yes yeah I'll get the bed bolts started here on these trucks there's eight bed bolts and their carriage bolts so that you really don't have to hold the top unless your bed is in rough shape could you apply some pressure to this rear carrier bolt there those are terrible I doubt it's been apart since 87 though so I'm checking to see if there's any extra ground straps that ground the bed to the chassis and we do need to we do need to actually take them off when you're removing one of these beds you always want to make sure everything's disc disconnected a couple of guys probably four is going to take for a short bed they'll get that bed right off now that we've got the bed off first thing to do on the instructions is to remove the existing brake line bracket now because this has been our Rd truck for other projects this truck already has a street grip system on it so some of the brackets are going to be a little bit different but we're going to point that out as we go so this bracket needs to come off we're gonna remove these two rivets on this brake line bracket and I like to I like to split this handle this rivet with a die grinder first and makes peeling it off with the air chisel a lot easier I'm gonna cut this bracket because there's a really good chance that we're not gonna have to separate this brake line from the rubber hose during this install I'm gonna start working on the C notch on the passenger's side John's gonna remove what's left of the street grip system on the driver's side I can go ahead and loosen this right you won't need it to locate anything correct you are correct even though this truck has the street grip system on it already the brackets that you're gonna be removing are in the same location they're just gonna look a little bit different this rear leaf spring hanger while we are gonna remove it on our truck it is not interfere with anything on the fore link so if you were in a time crunch you would not have to remove it for any reason when you're putting these C notches in there's a hole a factory hole in the frame to reference off of and I've got that marked on this frame with an arrow and I just lined up the rest of them using the template mark them and then I always hold up the C notch before I do any cutting to verify I like to start with a pilot hole for the half inch holes in the corners of the C notch that way you don't have to strain yourself or your drill now that those holes are drilled I can mark where I need to cut just to make sure I'm going to hold this C notch up here one more time before I do any cutting I'm removing this brake line mounting tab here because we're gonna need to cut through this area to not the C knotch before we cut these C notches in I'm gonna support this rear frame just as a precaution it's not going to sag but it's a good idea there are a lot of different ways to cut out these C notches but in our case this cuts are pretty straight so I used a cut-off wheel but a plasma cutter or die grinder would work also now that I got this notch cut out I I test fit it once I knew it was good put a little paint on these edges to keep it from rusting behind the knotch these see notches fit tight so it does take a little persuasion to get them into place there's a little hardware for that and I'll start bolting out should be in that box it's open on the floor index hole 2 7/16 John and I are gonna trade places now he's gonna put all the bolts in and drill the holes for the C notch on the passenger side and I'm gonna go over to the driver side and start doing some cutting it's always a good idea to put the bolts in on the side of the C notch to make sure that it is fully tight against the frame before you start drilling the holes in the top there are a lot of holes to drill on these but all the bolts we use is why it's so strong [Music] after the C notches and then installed the upper crossmember can be installed crossmembers located using the three holes at the top of the C notch depending on your exhaust and everything else you got going on back there this spare tire mount may have to be repositioned temporarily to get that crossmember in as you're putting this crossmember in here there's several different layers of material and a couple different bolts and a lot of things going on it'd be really easy to get this brake line pinched behind something so make sure that that's out of the way when you start tightening your bolts up for the crossmember while we were worried about pinching the line back here we ended up with this rubber line on top of this crossmember and it needs to be on the bottom side so we're going to take the brake line apart and fix that the next step is to knock off these front spring I hangers and to do that we got to take these rivets out so we'll do the same thing again and split the heads with a die grinder before we use the air chisel to knock them off if your trucks got dual tanks like this one does when you're using your die grinder or other device to get these rivet heads off you're gonna be pretty close to the gas tank so use precaution okay these front brackets utilize holes that are already in the frame so there isn't any doubt on where it goes there are a quite a few bolts again on this piece but that's what gives it its strength now once that's done we're gonna get to these lower brackets make sure you stick to the instructions close on this part the lower bracket is an integral part so that's why we supply torque spec these for length bars are already preset even though they're adjustable we set them at the shop before you ever get your parts the good thing about a four-link is that it's going to keep a pretty constant painting angle throughout the suspension travel unlike a leaf spring when it can wrap under hard acceleration our four-link is pretty beefy so you're not going to have any problems if you still want to use your truck as a truck now that we got all four of our four link bars attached we're going to go ahead and put the pan or bar on and then attach the rear coil overs a pan our bar that we provide is also preset but once you get your truck down on the ground that ride ID you probably want to double check the distance between your wheel and tire on the outside of your bed just to make sure these two coil overs don't really care which way they're mounted but on this particular truck we find it a lot easier to adjust the shocks with the knobs facing up so I like to turn the shock knob all the way in and then back it out till it's in the middle and that is a really good place to start with the adjustment to clear these C notches there is a little cutting to be done on one of the bed supports the instructions are pretty clear and it tells you exactly how many inches over to measure so we're going to go ahead and cut that out just like we did when we cut the C notches in I'm gonna clean up these edges and spray a little paint on there so rust doesn't start immediately now that we're done with that we're gonna put the bed back on and start putting the bed bolts in I'm gonna use a little anti-seize on these bolts just in case I ever needed to take the bed off again it really takes two people to get these bed bolt holes lined up now that we got that rear finished we're gonna move the truck over to the lift to do the front suspension it's gonna make it a lot easier for us to do to make this go a little bit quicker I'm gonna work on the driver side and John's going to work on the passenger's side I started by removing this tie rod end so that I could pivot the spindle independent of what he's trying to work on there to make it a lot easier for me to get the caliper off go forward so we can take the caliper off and hang it up so with a it's not break lines not under tension while we're working just like the street grip system the spindle that we provide in the kit here will allow you to use your stock brakes provided that they are the heavy duty version I'm gonna move on to removing these shocks they are already Ridetech shocks from our street grip system they're gonna come off the exact same way as your stock shocks will the new coil over system we're installing won't be using this shock stud on the frame so you can remove it if you like always use a spring compressor our truck has the straight grip kit on it so we have short Springs on her and they're gonna drop right out but your stock Springs are gonna be a lot longer and they're a lot more tension so always use a spring compressor I'm gonna take these alignment shims out and save save them normally you would just take this spindle off with the upper armor with the lower arm on this truck we had already done our D work and had a straight grip spend along there and that drop spindle is the same drop spindle we use on the coilover kit so we're gonna reuse that spindle these lower control arms are mounted with u-bolts so they're really the only thing you need to do is take off the four nuts and it drops right out now that we've got the control arms off there is a brace between the crossmember and the frame that needs to be removed and I've marked the rivets that need to be taken off these braces not only use rivets they also have bolts on the frame rail that hold them on once you've got this piece removed be sure to knock the remainder of your rivets through the frame crossmember because that is how your template is going to line up for cutting the hole for the coil over we provide templates for both sides driver and passenger so after you've got your rivets knock through all you need to do is line up the holes mark the center for cutting out for your coil over just like the C notches there are many ways to cut these holes we did have a plasma cutter available so that's what we used the top of this crossmember needs to be completely flat for our new bracket to mount correctly there may be a little trimming that needs to be done after your initial cut our bracket has a capturing area for the head of the bolt that when you push it down in there you don't have to hold it from the backside of the frame rail so it's a nice addition our kit does include all the hardware necessary we don't skimp on that at all and the bags of hardware are labeled so you don't just have a pile of bolts to start with on these lower control arm cross shafts there are two sets of holes that line up with these pins make sure to go by the instructions and take a measurement on yours so that the lower control arms get installed correctly once you have those pins lined up on the lower cross shaft you can install the nuts on your u-bolts and tighten everything up we're gonna take off the street grip sway bar your stock bar will be very similar and come off the same way our upper arms use our castor Slug cross shaft there's a couple of different ways to put these on so go by the instructions to make a decision on what's right for you these are really precise and they fit tight so make sure the castor slugs are seated in the cross shaft before you tighten up your net I went ahead and put these alignment shims back in that I had taken out on the stock arms this will get us close enough until we get it properly lined now we're going to put in our coilover starting with the upper mount see we're gonna put the spindle back on always make sure to use the correct Cotter keys I always like to use new cotter pins no matter how good a shape the old ones are this kit does allow the use of your stock breaks so that's what we're going to be putting back on but our spindle will allow most aftermarket brake systems to be installed also it's always a good idea to grease these ball joints even though they're new the front sway bar uses these Delrin liners for the bushings it drastically reduces diction and any kind of noises that you would normally hear with polyurethane bushings we're using our posi links for end links on this sway bar it along with the bushings that are Delrin on the sway bar bushings that we use the DOE and liners on this kit really reduces this kitchen and binding that a conventional suspension system with that now that we've got this system installed we're gonna take some measurements to check ride height because this is a call over system you can adjust your preload and your Springs to change the ride height somewhat so you'll want to custom tailor that to whatever suits you depending on tire package [Music] [Applause] [Music] you

Channel: ridetechtv

Views: 1,138,432

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Keywords: c10, c-10, pickup, chevrolet, suspension, coilover, coil-over, square body, square fender, ridetech

Id: m3v4nPwe6-8

Length: 16min 48sec (1008 seconds)

Published: Wed Oct 11 2017