#64 Installing Lift arms and Draft Control

[Music] hi everyone and welcome back to Waterhouse ward well we're getting to the end of it now the last of the three videos I mentioned a couple of videos back so we're going to do now we're going to we need to just put the lift arms back on we've got to get those last two bushes in get to lift arms back on we'll show you how to set up the lift arms it's not it's not a big jobs not difficult but it is something that's worth doing to make sure that they operate properly and then if we get time the last thing we'll do is just to put the draft control spring in and all the associated components if we don't manage to get to get to that today then we'll do that as a separate video but all engines members we hope to finish the transmission case today so follow along and see how we do it okay now before we move on to the actual lift arms I just wanted to quickly talk about all the different parts I also got the lift arms we've actually done a little bit of pre-work just to get started we put the lift arms on we'll show you those in a minute but these are all the other components that we need in order to complete the that might primarily the lift arms and then also the draft control now one of the parts in here was supplied by Anglo this is a six six seven six to eight and it's the spring support the draft spring seat if you want to think of it that way which basically replaces these so if you remember in one of the previous videos our talked about how this has been broken that this came off in two parts and that actually it should be one part just like that so that the place is there so we don't need those anymore the other thing I wanted to talk these other things I already had of the past fall so I didn't need to get those from Anglo but you can see this tin shield that's obviously you know seriously damaged so we're not going to use that we've got a replacement here I've just coated it with a base coat of gray primer obviously just to stop it from rusting and everything so we don't need that anymore and then again the faceplate you can see that's fundamentally different this one has a ridge on it again I've just coated that with a gray primer but on this one that Ridge is completely missing and I believe it should be there so again we're gonna forgo that so that leaves us then with obviously the draft spring which in this case is still perfectly fun and we're going to reuse that no problem the knuckle and again no problem with that I've put a little bit of anti-seize on those threads to make sure that that goes in nice and smoothly and more importantly that it doesn't season it can't come out again later when it needs to be taken out as three new balls for that triangular plate there we then got the end caps for the left arms and I've made the new lock tabs or yeah lock tab plates the old ones the actual little tabs were were pretty much non-existent so and I couldn't find these anyway so I'll ended up having to make them it's just one point two millimeter flat sheet and I will see just cut those out shape them and those will go in on there we've got new bolts for those again two of those were damaged when we were taking the left arm shaft out so completely replaced new ones there and then we've got the felt washer which goes over this or inside there and over the draught arm the drop spring arm and that just helps to seal inside there and stop moisture from getting inside the transmission case so these are still the bolts for the side covers I haven't managed to get the replacements for those yet I think what I'm going to end up having to do is actually cut to basically shorten 1 and 1 inch bolts these are three quarter inch so I'm probably going to lend up shortening the one inch bolts that I do have because nobody seems to have the three quarter inch long bolts ah well these are got from another company called Spalding fasteners so they'd seem that will they carry a quite a wide range and in particular they had the what they call own color so a lot of the ones that you buy today have been zinc coated which is not a bad thing because all season coating helps with correct anti-corrosion but it's not a number one is not original and also it's difficult to get the paint to stick to the zinc without a special treatment so our decided to go for own color which basically means they're just straight metal there's no treatment no real treatment there's a little bit of what the call black trepanning that's happened there but they don't have anything other than that and that means that women paint attracter the paint will stick to hopefully stick nasty to it I have yeah so like I say I've checked for the three-quarter inch three-quarter inch length both these are 7/16 UNC bolts but I don't have the 3/4 inch so I need to do the smallest they're shorts they do is 1 inch which I've got a whole load of but they don't do three calls so we're going to have to shorten the one adjoins okay Russia shall we get on and so the first thing we're going to do is sit the lift arms and show you how to do that is relatively easy and quite straightforward so we'll do there quickly and then we'll get on with the draw of control as you see we've now got we have already installed the lift arms onto the lift shop predominantly just because obviously it's a bit straightforward well it's very straightforward but more bullies but just a bit of hammering really just to get them on but they are armed they're connected to the shop we can hear the shop moving inside there and they currently move very easy put a little bit of grease between the top cover and the left arm itself on both sides just to sort of ease that face now what I want to show you is on the way I've set this up on either side right so you can see here the hope you can see this but their short is just inside there so when I run a finger over there I can feel an edge and it's the same on both sides so what that means is that the shop is ever so slightly shorter and this total length across and the reason for that is when we put these end plates on and we tighten them up basically it's gonna push us lift arm back against the the top cover and that creates a certain amount of tension in this slot here and that sits the let's call it like the friction setting for the lift arms now the ultimate setting is where when you put when you lift the lift arms up and you let them go that they will gently drop under their own weight not that they will fall but that they will slowly drop down you almost like a graceful fall down that's the right tension that's that's the setting that we're looking for we're gonna see how close we can get to that when we bring them up and down why is it clicking so if you remember what's going on on the inside on the connected to the same shop is the lever to push lever and that's has the the piston connecting rod is connected to that and when you move a tap it the piston connecting rod is moving in and out of the piston okay so you don't to do it too much because you might be scoring or damaging the inside of the cylinder so probably better not to do it too much but basically when the when you put pressure on the piston is going to push up against the connecting rod when they go down push the piston back remember when we clip the piston in the cylinder we push the piston all the way to the bottom now that's probably not at normal place right normally it might not probably doesn't go all that well all that far back the reason we did that was to minimize the amount of air in the cylinder right so when we first fire it up its gonna fill with oil rather than there being a whole bunch of air in there like a bubble there'll be a little bit it'll flush itself now it works this way but the point is when you put the piston in the cylinder you push the piston all way to the bottom so that the air gap is as small as possible so again connecting rod is okay so the next job is to put these end plates on now what we're gonna do get a little bit of copper grease shield anti-seize you're just going to put a little bit of anti-seize in' on each of these bolts you don't to get your fingers on this cuz it's them to be able to get off again I just spread that nasty grin threats so I'm a mature skin just is just difficult it's very sticky [Music] okay so a good bit of anti-seize only now what we do is put the block template on two bulbs through Oh [Music] [Music] okay right so both sides are now just finger tight and we can see that the blue top now due to poor too quickly so what we want to do now is you take note of that where that where the nuts are due so you have a look at the flat and basically tighten at one flat on each bolt and the same on the Sun yeah but we're talking in the moment so now they're still falling too quickly right so we're talking just a little bit more [Music] now that you talk rather not at all so we know we need to do [Music] right I'm gonna leave it there obviously it's got new bushes between the storm and the lift cover so I imagine is going to ease up over time and part of me would rather they were taught then loose I wouldn't want it to just fall under their own yep as in fall violently episiotomy Tyrol they were a little bit harder rather a little tired than two groups so now we need to just build over those lock tabs as best we can and cannot go in too close [Music] so we just get a screwdriver now hopefully without moving that bolt we're going to just bend it down to hold that bolt in place and we do the same for the bottom and then we do the same for the other to the other side as well okay move on to the draught and fill them so the first thing that goes on is this triangular plate that sits in there like that now obviously so it has to be stretched over that yeah you don't want to break it but it's a top first but it can he has to go on so you probably help if you twisted it are you getting in front of the camera oh that's it keep going twist twist turn it turn it it's on okay well done okay and push it all the way down the next thing is the spring seat that goes on there and sits inside that not that okay then we get the tin plate here and the three bolts [Music] [Music] okay I decided I wasn't very happy with the way that was sitting so we took it all from what I've done now I've actually pressed this a spring seat into this bottom plate we still got the fiber washer or the felt washer inside there that's now trapped inside and can now go back over the shaft so it might be a little bit difficult to get that on there but we that's better than the way it was sitting before where basically this seat was completely skewed so that's looking I'm happy with that we'll try that now so we'll get this face play the tin shield back on and get these nuts these balls started again [Music] left now sitting a lot straighter than it was before [Music] see let's drop control leave the nest still runs up and down the center of course is important as well so the next thing that's a fun right now as I said I've seen a couple of times now it's not possible to set this so okay let me explain right so there this there is a setting that's required here for the amount of shall we call it play in the system in the draft control system before it actually engages the hydraulics so what you don't want is you don't want this to be basically affecting the hydraulics until it needs to so when the implement is operating normally there should be no effect from the draft control on the hydraulic control system but equally as soon as a that the draw of control is required in other words for example if you're flying the player becomes stuck hits a rock hits a big root or whatever you want the draw of control to react quickly you don't want to you know you don't want it to be sloppy because it needs to lift the place as quickly as possible so that the tractor doesn't get stuck and you don't tip it so there's a Sheree caller the tolerance between how tight you would need you want this to be in other words how much pressure is actually placing so the more you tighten this the more it's pulling that lever inside the top cover out basically towards this knuckle and obviously the more is pulling the more it's beginning to act on the control valve in the pump so what Ferguson say now it you do have to have an implement on there hydraulics or on the three-point hitch rather and then what you do is you take a feeler gauge and what they say is that you want a gap between the spring and this flange on the on the knuckle now it's they're not a hundred percent specific about what that gap needs to be but what I'm gonna do I wouldn't use a tenth our gap now that's the tenth our feeler gauge it's a little bit random because this face is in 100% smooth but you see I can't get it in this are but I can get it in this side and that means that everything's not 100% lined up but essentially what we would what we'll do for now is we'll just take that back half a turn and hopefully so we've got now it's very loose on the side and it's still too tart on this side it's not a 100% precise again you're dealing with a spring which doesn't have a hundred percent flat face and obviously this flange the face on this flange is not a hundred percent either but essentially what we're gonna do and leave it there for now so we know that we've got probably about fifteen thousand decide and well nothing on this side but once we get this all connected up and we've got an implement on the machine sorry on the tractor connected up and you've got the weight of the implement on the hydraulic system what you want to do is adjust that knuckle so for that reason we're not going to be connecting the back end with about the back hitch to the knuckle we're going to leave it we will put when we want to do whenever I do the test we'll just put a bar through there so it is connected but it's not the final connection we'll let it take up the weight and then we want to basically judge roughly tenth or gap between this flange and the spring and that's how you would set up the draw of control so for now we're gonna leave it just like that I don't know whether that's right or wrong it's close it's you know it's kind of there or there abouts but that's essentially what we'll be looking for when we get the tractor going and when we get everything set up um why didn't we kill how many terms it was when we were taking it off well because we completely replaced a whole bunch of stuff in here right so either you doesn't matter what the setting was it it will be different now right also we didn't know the state of their shaft or this knuckle we may have had to have replace them so until you get it off you don't know so there's little point it's a good idea but there's not very much point in remove it sorry encountering it to how it was because a lot of stuff will have changed between then and now yes okay yep great okay I got the easy one right sides in this side is [Music] and it probably just needs a little bit of here we go just lift it you see all the you can okay so other than putting the side covers onto the transmission housing which we're not going to do today as I said we need to get those bowls or today so we're going to leave it there we're going to call the transmission housing done and say the SOB company to go on one other thing that does need to be done is we still need to sort out this quadrant we'll do that as a separate video we're not 100% ready to do that yet I've still got some cleaning to do on the lever I'm not happy with how that's come out so I want to have another go at there but we'll do that as a separate video because it's actually quite an interesting setup there as well with the friction discs and all of that that needs to go in there as well so we're going to call it there for today thank you very much again to Anglo AG reports for supplying the parts where our restoration or for sponsoring the channel please visit their website at www.petland.com so from Oscar ah thank you very much and goodbye you

Channel: Waterhouse Forde

Views: 6,666

Keywords: TED20, Ferguson, Waterhouse Forde, Tractor restoration, Tractor, Restoration, Grey Fergie, TE20, TVO, Tractor Vapourising Oil, Vintage Tractor, Classic Tractor, Fergie, Anglo, Anglo Agriparts, Lift Arms, Draft Control, Draft Spring

Id: it2943IxQRI

Length: 27min 18sec (1638 seconds)

Published: Thu Nov 14 2019