6 Rock Climbing Knots you must know! | StoneAgeMan

[Music] welcome to a new not episode where we're gonna be learning some of the essential climbing knots we've got hue mountaineering guru we've got Jonas over here alright let's get started this is the Alpine butterfly we're gonna take a look at the Alpine butterfly for when you want to tie into the middle of a rope there's few situations you want to do that especially when moving across rock phases where you want to see more climbing together you'd have one person on one end of the rope and one person on the other and then one person in the middle you could do that by just tying a figure eight on a bite but a better way to do it is with an Alpine butterfly or lineman's loop you do that by taking a part of the rope normally the middle and you'd make three loops so you go over once and over twice in over a third time and then you'd reach underneath you go around and put it through and then you get a nice little look that looks like that you dress it nice and then you clip on to the other side just like so let me do that for you one more time but a little bit slower over Nev them bring another one then over three palm and another one over pass your knuckles you've got three in a in a row then reach under the fingers and pull that loop through and then he goes around underneath and through then when you pull that tight we end up with is these two bunny ears I miss and two parallel lines come out are they as well and if you put a force on either side then it's equal pressure on either side not only that is it really easy to untie if this force that goes through it you just push that back out through there and you've got just your rope normal again this is the threaded eight knot so I've been climbing for more than 15 years and I've been helping students and beginners in the climbing gym for for quite a long time as well and the one thing that we teach beginners when it comes to climbing and rope handling is the one knot that is really important is the figure eight so that's what we're gonna look at how to do now so let's look at first how to do a single finger eight this is the simple one I'm just gonna hold it the Rope like this pinch it like this take the loose end and wrap it around and then I'm gonna have it come back at me like this you see the hole I'm gonna poke it through the eye like that and that gives me a perfect figure eight what's really great about this knot is that you can easily see that you tied it right it looks like a perfect eight like that this knot is used a lot as a stopper knot when we're climbing we're always tying a single eight at the end of the rope so we don't lay out of the rope basically you want to make sure that when you get to the end of rope you don't like slide out of it and the single eight is also used a lot on sailboats so we use the eight knot to tie ourselves into the harness but to be able to do that we want to make sure that we have enough length of this loose end so usually a big recommendation a lot of people say is that they want to go from be about the throat out to the end of your palm like that this is a pretty good length for tying yourself into a climbing harness so first we're gonna do the single eight let it hang like this come around back to yourself and then poke it through that way we end up with a single eight like this and a pretty pretty long loose end this is what we then in turn take and we thread it through the harness so the harness is set up like this you have a central loop here and you have one part on the lower harness that holds the leg loops and then you have the the waist loop up here you want to thread this loose and through both of these and of course you learn this when you're taking your climbing course at a climbing Center I just want to show you the knot here so now we have the loose end tight like this and the first single figure 8 all the way up to the harness and what you want to do to be able to tie itself in is follow the loose end basically where the rope comes in and hits the harness you want to follow it through all the way back to where it came from so you go like this you parallel it like that you go parallel to the next one you dip it down and the whole time you're making sure that you are going parallel to the first eight knot that you're dead and then you're gonna end up coming up and parallel to the the end of the rope here and that is a threaded eight knot basically super easy to see that you've tied it right it looks like a perfect date but it's doubled in this sense and you tie it into the harness properly and this thing will never come loose this what you do when you're climbing this is when you do when you tie yourself into the end of a rope if you're going up a glacier or a mountain like we are here now perfect not one of the most important knots that you will learn when you start climbing this one it's Kovich in a month area like this where you want to move fast it's good to know that you can you can hitch into an anchor and stay safe so the regular way that you do this is you'd have the rope that's closest to you that you're tied into and when you get to that anchor point first you'd make it a loop with your left hand from go from left to right then you make a loop with your right hand going from right to left then you actually pass them with your right hand coming closer to you so it looks a bit like that when you clip into that then or you'll find this at all tightens up on itself and make sure that you're completely safe when you're at that anchor point if you want to get further away or closer to that anchor point is a handy little bar here that you can use you pull on it and if you pull your end of the rope you get further away if you pull the other end of the rope you get closer to that anchor point if you wanna be even quicker this is a great way of doing it with one hand where you clip into the rope to begin with like you normally would with any quicker or any carabiner then you reach around to the back of the the rope make a loop and pass it straight through and you've got that clove hitch but with one hand this is the Italian hitch if you find yourself in a position where you don't have a belay device to repel or if you want to move quickly and you want to bring your second person up without that belay device then you can use a moving hitch called an Italian hitch or Munter it's very similar it's kind of like a sister hitch to a clove hitch but it moves so you don't to get a mixed up kind of the same way that you tie them with the left hand there with the rope closest to you you make a loop from left to right and then with the this part of the rope you make from right to left but instead of crossing them over like you do with the clove hitch you actually make another round trip with the right hand and bring them together so it looks a bit like this and then when you put a carabiner through it what you'll find is that that moves so you clip it through and then if I pull on this side you'll notice that it rolls over on itself which is completely fine that's what it's supposed to do and is supposed to move through so when you pull it from either side there and it'll roll over and it'll move through it's a friction hitch you don't use it a lot don't use it a lot because it puts a lot of heat through the rope and it twists the Rope up but in a in a snip if you need to repel or if you need to bring a second person up without a belay device this is the hitch for you let me do this one more time slowly so the rope is closest to you you go from left to right and make a loop and then with your right hand you go from right to left and make a loop but unlike the clove hitch we'd cross them over you actually make another turn and bring them together just like that so that's what it looks like and then when you put a carabiner through it what you'll see is that you pull it and it rolls over on itself which is what it's supposed to do and they'll run through and I seen the other way that's a moving hitch that you can use to repel what to belay someone so we're doing some some knots that you'd normally come across you normally want to know in an Alpine environment such as this when you're on no but mixed with rock when you want to move quickly and you want to set up anchor systems through the through the rocks just to make sure everyone's safe so when moving through boulder fields are moving across rock faces you set these up and you use these nuts these hitches just to to make sure that you are moving quickly and get back down off the mountain safely so now I want to show you how to use a prusik so there's a couple of ways to do the project I'm gonna show you one that is a little bit looser first this is called the French press ik the project is looked locked on to my carabiner and take it like like this and I'm gonna wrap it around the down end of the rope and I'm gonna wrap it at least three times here actually as many times as you can is good the more the more loops you will get around this the better the friction is gonna be and the better it's gonna pinch the rope when you go down but I'm gonna wrap it too to the point where I have you know about that much left to go I'm gonna take this loose end and I'm gonna clip that on to the kareena as well ACMA there we go I have a screw carabiner here as well as and never use a screw carry in and there's open I'm gonna lock it and then what this does is that it basically pinches the rope when I'm going down so I could potentially just be hanging on in this project and it wouldn't just drop me to the ground and it would you know allow me to go down safely then how I go down with my right hand on the pressing knot and I would move it down and feed it through that way I would be able to lower myself down in a safe way so this is the French prusik I'm gonna show you one that's more of a standard version that is also a little bit tighter and instead of clipping it on I'm gonna hold it like so and then I'm gonna thread the prusik through instead of a round like I did before I'm gonna have the loose ends on either side I'm gonna thread it through like this and I'm gonna do another one so basically I'm I'm looping it over itself but on the inside shrinking the distance here on the inside three turns like this do one more so you end up with a nice-looking wrapper like that the loose end that I was just using to thread to wrap around is the loose end that I'm gonna also clip into the my carabiner like this again like before close the gate and here's my pressing works the exact same way this one is a little bit tighter than the French pressing and it will hold you better even same same procedure going down hand on this pressing not my other hand on the top rope and then we'll basically feed me through like this if I was to fall if there was a rock that hit me in the head knock me unconscious so for any reason I would lose my grip and and let go of the rope it would pinch it and it will basically stop me from falling down to the ground all right thanks everybody for tuning in I wanted to do this video with these guys because they are Mountain experts okay up here all the time more than me sometimes I will do knots this is part of a whole series that we're doing here with Stone Age man stay tuned for more and if you want to follow these guys if you want to follow me it's quite easy you can follow my tracks in the snow or if you like social media you can go to Instagram Facebook Twitter MySpace only I'm on there anymore but look for um James or aunt iris at Auntie rias we do science the outdoors which is why we do a lot of rough stuff in amazing locations like this you want to find out more of the stuff that I do you can either check out the science filmmaking tips YouTube channel that Rob and I run together all kinds of tips and tricks on photography and filmmaking if you want to say I see a lot of my photographs then go to my Instagram which is behind the science and I'm also setting up a YouTube channel with a lot of science content biodiversity a lot of cool stuff so check that out as well link is gonna be down there below when everything is set up so enjoy it and stay tuned for more Stone Age rayon video we're teaching some of these different skills see you in the next one I gotta say it's probably one of the honestly one of the coolest camp sites that I've been to we're up on the Grand Teton we're on the Teton Mountains close to the Grand Teton and business this campsite is called the caves because there's well at least like mini caves that you could sleep in but we won't worry we're gonna get just basically snowed on the silks we pushed a tent in here which was both a good idea and a bad idea the good idea is that we were really protected from the storm that came in last night but the batter it is the snow is melting from up top and dripping down right where we had our heads so we kept kept getting like hit with little water drops all night even though we had a tent closed up because it was it was leaking

Channel: StoneAgeMan

Views: 382,718

Keywords: science untamed science ecogeeks rob nelson ecogeek, ecoarmy, knots, climbing, alpine knots, knot, knot tie, rei, munter hitch, clove hitch, alpine butterfly

Id: _ngG3WTyxpo

Length: 13min 9sec (789 seconds)

Published: Sat Oct 12 2019