3D Printing new Seraphon for 2020 | Airbrush Army Painting

[Laughter] have you seen this guy what the steak a dog yeah they say go mom look at him he's hilarious we're gonna lose - I'm putting three of those in the new Seraphin army dude dude wow look at his face he looks like he's cross train that I just dance - what'd he want - his picture I mean yeah okay fair play but like that's all there is available like I can't just conjure new models out of thin air oh oh yeah so what do you think I should make anything anything with this [Applause] [Music] what's up my movers and shakers this is Dave and this once again is mspaint and we're back a little bit earlier than expected with this project but this is the first entry into the new Seraphin army that I've been working on momma Dee exactly she is built from a D&D Tarasque model [Music] the total war Warhammer to how der assets from the Lizardman army and of course the stink riders donated by lost kingdom miniatures that I doubt in the last video along with a few spare knickknacks that I had lying around from like the multiple start collecting boxes for Seraphin I bought and just as I warning this is his solid seven out of ten on the mspaint fiddly scale so like with all my stuff to take it just as far as you want or you feel you're comfortable with but this one is it is pretty tricky but it is something I just wanted to make well hell I still can apologies in advance because my huge cranium dome is absolutely in the way for some of this video but any up sections where the stuff is obscured I'll put a list on the screen or I'll say exactly what I'm doing usually it's just paint recipes and you can kind of figure out the rest of yourself common sense like but other than that I'm just gonna dive straight into it assembly is fairly straightforward I'm gonna clip off or a garbage that you get when you 3d print stuff these are just the support structures it's necessary and I'm gonna get as clean a surface as possible I printed these fairly awkwardly to prevent support being on as few visible surfaces as possible when a support is attached to a resin model it tends to leave little dimples on the print itself where the supports have been broken off there's a few here and there that I've left over but I'll be running some milliput over most of them to smooth them out and it works for the most part did leave a couple on the dinosaurs armour plating because I thought well it kind of looks like dents from attacks and that's kind of how I'm going to justify it maybe justify my laziness I found that having left the resin pieces to cure for a few weeks that they change shape slightly in places and drastically in others and I needed a little carving here and there to slot them into place properly that this is a this is a common problem in UV 3d printing in there the more time that the print has out in the Sun or in natural light the more it constricts to its maximum so there's always gonna be some shrinkage and that's just kind of standard I guess at this stage the how there was definitely more of a bore like to assemble a even looking at images on the original files page I had all the bits printed off and I was just like what the am I supposed to do with this is this that does that go there is this here I don't know and I couldn't really figure out where everything went so I'd pretty much just eyeballed it it looks fine in the end result the skinks from lost kingdom miniatures were an absolute breeze to assemble but because I scaled these down a little bit in the software to match my other skinks they came out more fragile than probably was intended by the manufacturer I [Music] managed to break one of their arms and thankfully I scaled them just to the right size that I know old Games Workshop spear arm did fit them but these are still very nice called multi-part skin kits and offer more diversity than the original first-party ones using standard grade milliput here which is the green and the white two-part epoxy my usual method is to cram every nook and cranny and big nook and cranny in this case push it in as far as it will go that's gonna make the model more secure more rigid in the future when it cures and then after this stage I take a stiff wet brush and kind of mash mush and just pulverize the material until it's pretty much flat with the rest of the surface [Music] it's easy at this stage to look at it and think oh that's gonna be garbage that ain't gonna work and then you can just think hours and hours and hours of time into just a pointless venture and never make a judgement on this until you've hit with a primer which you know some people see the primer as like oh it's over we've moved on we can't go back you can absolutely add more you can hack it out if you really want to do that but most importantly you can just add more to this no problem I've added some 3d printed post these were part of the how the kit I don't know exactly what they're supposed to be and I've also used some of the clip top support scraps these are gonna be for the posts for the vine as the vine ropes to bind the powder to the body or at least cosmetically so and because I clipped off the Tarasque s-- top armor plate spikes I'm gonna hide this somewhat with some classic 90s Lizardman shields which still look pretty funky and a couple of solar shields that are gonna be put in there it's gonna look a little bit like armor plating but mostly is there to cover all my er of sins [Music] onto the cotton now considering I am dreading the day that I have to do the rigging on my Black Sea ships this was a bit of a primer for that because this is awful this this is awfully fiddly awful during the whole process just awful awful awful but with amazing results the render is always beautiful on this stuff I loop these over the posts with some glue and wrap it round make it nice and thick and then go underneath the dinosaur loop it round the opposite post secure the glue again loop it under repeat the process under over and over sort of thing you get the idea and just haphazardly kind of make this work it was absolutely here that my big fat head got in the way and ruin everything on what is supposed to be my best video yet I'll figure out for the second one when I do a t-rex t-rex is about in stegosaurs anyway nestled just common knowledge bigger badder sexier so here is the actual recipe for the skinks that I did I use this for pretty much all myself on my shades by a proxy GOG warband or pretty much just this method is quick easy and painless so from them white then use a one-to-one mix of khuwaylid green koala qualia green shade and water just water cover the whole thing in this weekend me then I used green ink on the hard scales at the AMA play in the the fins on their heads anything that is on their back essentially we're going light to dark work it up then I use Vallejo dark aluminium on some of the bangles some of the weapons I use Valley a hot liquid gold on some of the other trimmings and especially on the shield lining I used contrast flush Terra's red on the fields themselves Vallejo liquid copper on the weapon tips rock a flesh on any bone decoration and any of the creatures flaws rhinox hide on the bows especially the leather bindings where I assumed they were and I used xandrie dust on their little belts GW ones don't but these guys had lone cloths and I used Avalons sunset and covered it with Fugen orange wash let's break up some of the dark aluminium sepia ink detonate brass the finishing touches I add a mixture of different kinds of inks on the feathers and Moot green for the eyes after some experimentation I decided what works best with this color scheme is army painter soft tone over the entire thing and that's it nice and simple they took maybe an hour to do get yourself a hairdryer 45 minutes now Gary [Music] now I'm remembering back to something that I was doing on my dredge sorry and proxy not cheeping out I do have a dread story and I just wanted to run too and it was the dread sorry I'm proxy that was built around the Lord of the Rings warmer look this was before the Facebook Seraphin community just bent over and took a massive on it and basically said intergalactic space frogs that imagine all of their friends can't be friends with elephants or Jaguars or any other aesthetically contextually appropriate jungle creatures because that's unrealistic space frogs was I ivory ivory now the ivory on this guy was kind of wide looked at in pictures like it it's a light bone color with a hint of red in there and also it's kind of gone black at the tips I have no idea whether this is something that happens after the fact where it's been taken off but it looked really pretty and I wanted to take the idea glossary up real nice so I'm gonna apply it to this as well I'm first coating everything in raqqa flesh which does turn out to be a bad idea not the color itself but the order in which I did things so I then start again and airbrush the entire thing with a really dark grey this is a thorough sight gray from Vallejo then I almost zenithal highlight the rock our flesh on top of it this gives a nice bit of under shading to the immune of the underneath of the armour plates it means I don't need to go in later with a dark wash and painstakingly try and create the illusion of life this is done in [Music] then drybrush back from the edges with pure black this is to get that weird effect that is on ivory made sure to get all the imperfections all the little ridges to bring out the detail this model was so much more than I could see before I Drive washed it then I add right and flush shade just to add a little bit of what feels like blood circulating through those parts after faffing around with the airbrush for maybe a couple of hours and finally getting stuff right I wasn't really in the mood to airbrush the skin tones so I just slapped on some army paint a soft tongue well okay I that worked that's working fine okay the areas where I overrun with the airbrush that did leave a nice natural gradient of raqqa flesh and dark grey so you have a little bit there almost deliberate looking intent I have because the wash brings it all together so nicely and naturally the only part of this model that people are genuinely asking me about online is how I did the skin tone i drybrush the extreme ridges of the armour plating with rock white really no need to do this I was just kind of testing out and then it was kind of on there at that point so I just finished it it looked probably alright without it [Music] the shields underneath were just painted with corn red and then I mixed that with an orange and then used that as a basic highlight that's very very simple step on to the first of our gold tones this is Vallejo liquid gold I don't know what the stuff is I don't know what it's made of but it destroys paintbrushes and it smells a little bit funky use the cheek brush and slap it up next up I'm using copper from the same liquid metal series this is the bulk of the howdah and also the jungle throne [Music] now the areas on top deck that I wanted to have a really popping candy in color I first started with dark aluminium from Vallejo not bright enough I then went to light aluminium from Vallejo which is so white that it is almost not a metallic I think I will step down for the next time I try this and use a silver or steel from there series I also made sure to hit any jewels or decorative reliefs with this painful I tried applying inks to the flat surfaces numerous times and there's always brushstrokes and it never looks quite right and it's thicker in places another and eventually run back to the airbrush because I can't I did the doll deflator airbrushing out an even coat blue and red absolutely no problem is she didn't look great later on and since everything is going to be kind of earthy colors fairly muted and brought down with a shade later I figured I would use contrasting colors here the red and the blue to really draw attention to the top deck what's going on and when the skins are on their layer it's going to be busy is gonna draw the eye up to the top which is really cool and of course just touch up the gold afterwards I'm not sure if workshop still make these or not but these are technical paints like way stone green I think they're called salt stone blue they're absolutely awesome for this kind of thing we just take a little bit straight out the pot and you dab it on the metallic area that you want to be a gemstone it's great next I'm going to my metallic paints from green stuff world this is Caesar red I think and something something green it's like a turquoise II till maybe I'm using these to block paint large areas where I can't be bothered to go in with the airbrush again event I do [Music] lowest level of the house is being painted gray I don't know what material it is but it is it is gray material it's gonna be gray holes and totems have been painted with dark aluminium on this model which you know if you don't know by now this is my absolute go to paint so easy to tint it different colors different shades make it into different materials later on check out the speed painting tutorial that I did last week because that is two hours of just using this material to istrict its best its full potential is great [Music] she is looking pretty pissed I would absolutely be pissed off if this thing was on my back as well it is hideous and gaudy and she could be on drag race with this picked out any wood or log parts on the how to with goth or brown it's a nice light brown I don't want to be highlighting this to flight so I'm just gonna bring it down with a shade that's how I like to do things when I'm gonna rush I've used an off-white paint for the vines I'm going to contrast these later on nice and simple you don't need to cover them all it makes it more interesting if you don't trust me while this was drying I did hit the dark aluminium areas with some CPR inks in places just to break it up and give it a brass coppery look moving back to the vines I used Agora students contrast paint again you don't need to get this everywhere this is gonna be darker in some places anyway where you didn't hit it with the off-white just slather on and the end result that I got from various airbrush layers various paints here in it it just looks pretty interesting like very jungle vines probably would it's your fault we all frog ye oh oh hey didn't see you there my name's Tony and I'm here to talk to you about the mspaint patreon right now you can join patreon for as little as 3 bucks a month and you can get all kinds of benefits like joining the MS paints II walk family village on Facebook you can vote on current projects and upcoming projects see work in progress pictures and also get little tips and tricks on message dinners directly image paints is aiming to be the premium platform for people who want to enjoy the Hobby despite their there's no needs if you can't do that just give us a like and subscribe on the youtubes and also give us a following on a facebook all right Tony I thank you for telling in a bottle time it's our me paint a soft tone and this stuff along with strong tone is just what can awesome and based on what you're doing it over it's hard to tell what it's actually gonna do sometimes which makes it a little bit spicy I was a little bit scared putting this on but I did all of the copper and gold with this the entire howdah got paid with this stuff some metals I left but as I didn't I'll leave it up to your discretion but gold mixed with gloss on this stuff adds a really nice non metallic metal effect almost now I've neglected some parts of the creature is kind of forgot that they were there like the mouth needed doing so I ran back and I went in there with a purple ink not the best idea I should have gone in with maybe a purple contrast or really watered this down because I lost a lot of detail in there there's more detail in this mouth than I could ever paint in my skill level so I should have just gone in with something really light and let natural primer color bring those up I worked a little bit of this up into the gums and the sides of the mouth and then I touched up the teeth with rock our flesh again rock our flesh she's just an awesome kind of cool tone that's a little bit different from the regular bone colors and again I use it as a basis for ivory stuff do the claws of the creature in this as well again we're gonna go with Brighton flash shade just to add a little bit more tone and life and blood into these areas not like blood gore blood but like blood that is flowing through parts of the body sort of thing [Music] and you can bring these up with just something that's slightly off-white [Music] I'm aware I won't be drybrushing any of the metallics I think there's so much going on with this model that trying to make everything pop with dry brushes and highlights will absolutely be disgusting I think that'd be even more gaudy and hideous than it is so I'm just gonna edge highlight a couple of areas on the how to just to draw attention and nice pretty much it [Music] anywhere that I used the light aluminium and then the inks and any of the technical paints from his workshop I'm adding a little bit of gloss varnish to how the final varnish affects the end product is similar to think about if you're using specifically matte paints you have to think well why did I get those paints why am I using them and then if I'm going to end on a satin varnish what is the point and there's also paints I use for their technical properties like green stuff world Quicksilver with their brand of inks over the top and if I use a matte varnish or a satin varnish I completely nullify the point of doing that so it's something that you need to kind of think about and it can be easy to get some nice cheap effects out of this from a distance I've got models that look like nonmetallic metal and I've spent days painting them when really it's just gloss varnish and I did the base off camera once I've refined that process and made something more interesting looking I will be doing a seraph on jungle base tutorial and I stuck the skink crew on some of them wouldn't fit very well so I put them on the base just kind of like it's a nice little almost kings of war idea that you've got a little diorama base just moving forward it looks really cool there she is mama Pia Grande she's turned out better than I thought she would given this maybe three to four different printed kits in here and there's also just bit skip back from my spares box I think she's pretty awesome [Music] Oh

Channel: MS_Paints

Views: 27,107

Keywords: warhammer, skink, saurus, stegadon, battletome, battle report, painting, 3d printer, lost kingdom miniatures, anycubic photon, elegoo mars, miniatures, lizardmen, terrain, wargames terrain, deadzone, mantic, age of sigmar, seraphon, dinosaur toys, dinosaur model kit, tabletop games, tabletop scenery, miniature painting, airbrushing warhammer, airbrush, airbrush warhammer, warhammer disability, painting with disability, multiple sclerosis story, living with ms, seraphon battle report

Id: C5ocPovjIYE

Length: 24min 15sec (1455 seconds)

Published: Fri May 08 2020