3D Printing an Ultra-Realistic Model of My House – Realistic Scenery Vol.19

[Music] hey olan welcome back to another awesome scenery tutorial sponsored by Skillshare in this video i'll be showing you how to use the latest 3d printing technology to make an amazing replica of your house or anyone's house for that matter so let's not waste any more time and get building [Music] when I say anyone's house what I really mean is anyone who will let you crawl all over the place with a measuring tape and a notepad somehow I don't think the Secret Service is going to let you climb on top of the White House to get accurate dimensions of the chimney just saying to build and design the house you'll need a 3d program like many of my previous videos that use 3d printing you'll have noticed I use Tinkercad quite a lot to build and design my models at first glance it may look quite basic and limiting that as you dig deeper into the program you'll soon discover there's a lot of functionality I mean look at how easy it was to build a brick wall and cut out spaces for the garage door and making a complex shape like the metal screen door was surprisingly easy to do using some of the preloaded shapes and changing the parameters until I got a design that I was happy with if all this looks too daunting to figure out on your own you can always check out the sponsor of this video skill share they are basically an online learning community with thousands of classes some of which include courses like learning the basics of Tinkercad as well as learning some of the more complex 3d design programs like fusion 360 and blender in my quest to build better models 3d printing my own custom models is an important step and eventually I'll need to take my skills to the next level which is why I've started watching classes using fusion 360 right now I'm watching learn fusion 360 in 30 days for complete beginners by Kevin Kennedy they're presented in very easy to follow classes with just the right amount of Meishan making them enjoyable to learn and I really feel like I'm progressing with each new class whether you want to fuel your curiosity creativity or even career skill share is the perfect place to keep you learning and thriving a premium membership gives you unlimited access to as many courses as you desire for less than $10 a month and because Skillshare is sponsoring this video you can sign up using the link in the description below and get a two month free trial once we have the main structure of the house made including the doors and windows I can export them to the 3d printer slicing program you just want to make sure to export it as an STL file the printer I'll be using to create the model is the new Annette and for resin based 3d printer which will be perfect for printing even the very fine details like the screen door and windows with the wall section loaded into the slicer that comes with the 3d printer I make sure to orientate it so that it lies flat on the surface with simple flat shapes like this you can get away without needing support material and have it print directly onto the bottom of the print bed with the model orientated so it fits within the build area I checked the print settings and then press slice it's now ready to be printed for more information about the Annette and for printer and the settings I've been using for printing these house details be sure to check out their review on my website it'll all be there something to be wary of when using the UV resin is that it's toxic in its uncured state so definitely wear your gloves you also don't need to fill the VAT Rider only a small amount of resin is necessary once the printer is set up and the bed level which only takes a couple of minutes I can install the VAT tighten the locking screws and place the cover back on now it's simply a matter of selecting the file you want and starting the print anytime you're printing you want to keep the printer away from direct sunlight because it's the UV light that causes the resin to harden and cure once the print is finished I remove the excess resin from the top of the build plate and then turn it on its side for about five to ten minutes to let the rest of the resin drip away cleanup is relatively easy you'll want to make sure you have plenty of paper towels to collect any drips and to absorb excess resin next the parts are washed in isopropyl alcohol the first bath is the main wash to remove the bulk of the uncured resin and the second bath takes away any remaining residue to speed up the drying process I use the airbrush to help the alcohol evaporate quicker then finally it's placed in the curing chamber for about thirty minutes making sure to turn it a couple of times to help prevent warping because we printed directly onto the base of the print bed there may be a little flashing around the edges this is very easily removed by driving a sharp hobby knife across the edge a small amount of warping is hard to avoid especially with such large thin pieces but to help return them to being perfectly straight I added some bracing using PVC foam board it's surprisingly rigid and easy to cut which makes it great medium for modeling with each piece is cut with a 45 degree angle so they don't interfere with the adjoining wall pieces and then they are glued with fast-setting two-part epoxy I use the epoxy not only to attach the bracing but I also use it to attach the adjoining wall sections to each other before gluing the bracing I give the surface of the resin a rough sanding just to make sure the epoxy gets a nice grip and then using something heavy like these machinist blocks to flatten out the walls as the bracing is attached and as the epoxy cures this next step shows just how accurate the reson 3d printers actually are these two wall sections marry up near perfectly creating a seamless joint and it's like that all the way around the model there is next to no sanding or filing required to meet up the edges which is rare even for commercial kits the base for the house is fashioned using one point five millimeter plywood the house is placed on top and traced so I have a perfect footprint of the house it's a pine wood and because it's only very thin and quite soft it can be cut with a sharp hobby knife and it's even easier to cut with an ultrasonic cutting knife more two-part epoxy is used to glue the house to the base the windows and doors have ultra fine detail and surprisingly the n4 handled them quite well I also found by placing them between two pieces of acrylic as they cure help prevent warping from occurring which would have been quite helpful with the wall sections it wasn't all smooth sailing though to get these prints to work here are some of the failed prints but after some minor tweaks in the design and the print settings I managed to get them printing better than I had hoped for and just like the walls the roof sections were also designed in Tinkercad and 3d printed I found having a strip of paper on the back of the roof when joining two pieces helped reinforce the join making it much stronger and a more reliable bond not to mention it helps stop the roof from being permanently glued to my cutting minute a second footprint of the house is created although this one will be used to help assemble the roof the pitch of the roof sits at 20 degrees so some roof trusses will cut and glued to help attach the roof sections I found them useful for aligning and gluing each separate roof site to the other however after completely assembling the roof and gluing them with the epoxy I found the trusses I had placed we're preventing me from getting the roof to sit flat and evenly so I ended up removing them in the end and gluing the 3d printed roof straight to the plywood with no internal supports after a quick test fit I found the roofs at just a touch too low on the bricks so as styrene spacer was added to get the roof sitting at the height I was after and a bit of superglue was used to glue these down the bricks are my actual house have a very rough texture so to model that I'm using a spray painting technique that involves misting a layer of paint from a distance leaving a speckled finish it tends to work better with thicker paints which is why I'm using Joule luxe metal shield as you can see it really doesn't take much to get quite a nice effect now a light coat of white primer is used the building is very light yellowish beige color so a white primer will work best the exact color I'm using is radome tan which amazingly is a near perfect match I apply multiple thin layers gradually building up the color only a very light weathering effect is applied after painting using some of the dust pigment from the scale-model as supply I apply it quite heavily however a lot is also removed until I get a nice subtle effect the pigment tends to sit in the mortar lines which helps bring out the detail and it's sealed with a very light misting of matte varnish all the windows and doors are painted in a similar fashion by first applying an undercoat of primer and then painting them the desired color most of the window frames were a very dark copper color the airbrush makes painting fast and consistent however there are still some parts that need to be hand painted the windows are designed with quite tight tolerances so there was some sanding required mainly to remove this very small amount of flashing as a result of printing directly onto the surface of the print bed once you've made sure the windows fit I add window glazing using leftover clear plastic packaging the easiest and fastest way of attaching the glazing to each window was to lightly spray the back of each window frame with some spray adhesive and then press the window panels onto the back of each frame it was simple fast and there was no glue spots or smudges on the windows the last bit of detail for each window is curtains these are downloaded from Google Images and then sized accordingly for each window type in Photoshop once printed they're cutout and glued in place with a tiny drop of glue in the corners of the window frames now all we need to do is glue each window in their respective positions to demonstrate the difference between using 3d printed roof sections and styrene I'm constructing the back porch roof using point zero four zero corrugated siding as you will see later once the model is finished you basically can't tell the difference between the styrene roof section and the 3d printed roof which just goes to show how detailed and versatile a 3d printer like this can be something that is much harder to do as accurately in styrene is making the bullnose roof sections for the front veranda once more the roof was designed in Tinkercad and 3d printed this is one example where additional printing supports are needed for the printer work each piece fits perfectly together if you're wondering what the pencil marks are on the roof there were some artifacts in the exported file that I didn't pick up on so instead of reprinting the entire roof section I broke off those small imperfections using a pencil to get in between the corrugations when it came to painting the roof I had to do a bit of experimenting in color mixing until I found a color that is a close match to our faded blue roof believe it or not but I nearly forgot to add the roof capping luckily I noticed in time and quickly added the foil capping and resprayed the roof this is the same heavy duty foil I use whenever I bring out the corrugated iron maker and it's attached with some super glue to get the age to faded look I apply a liberal amount of white pigment from the scale-model as supply and just like the dust pigment I brush most of it off again until I'm left with the look I'm happy with it's a very forgiving pigment so don't worry if you make a mistake because it's quite easy to remove and start over and again like the walls it's sealed with a very light misting of matte varnish when attaching the veranda roof I found turning the house upside down to help me get a much more even join that is level right across the top even the wood lattice was 3d printed with ease each post is cut to the same length I use the micro mark chop it a lot and for jobs like this it's perfect a second footprint using plywood is cut however this time I'm including the area under the verandas this is so I can glue the paving detail that was printed by searching on Google for brick textured tiles you'll find a whole range of textures that can be laid out in an endless pattern making it very easy to cover large areas programs like Photoshop make it very easy to do once it's glued and dry the excess is removed now we can start planning out the actual scene finally one of my favorite bases to use is extruded polystyrene its rigid enough for small dioramas like this and it's easy to carve in shape it also sounds surprisingly well just avoid breathing in any of the dust once the position has been marked out I roughen the surface of the foam this helps the glue bond better with the foam the glue I'm using to fix this piece of plywood down is polyurethane glue it's extremely strong and bonds very well with the foam and wood also you only need a very thin layer as the glue expands as occurs to feel small gaps so be sure to weigh it down as it cures a bit of landscaping is done with a sharp knife and because I'll be adding it dirt texture directly to the phone without a layer of plaster I make sure to sand any harsh edges in the foam as they will potentially show through after adding the ground textures the foam can now be painted an earth coloured paint mainly to hide any areas that are only lightly covered in the ground texture thus hiding the unrealistic yellow underneath when applying the paint I make sure to be very careful in not getting it on the paving a cement driveway is added with strips of plywood painted a cement color and then dry brushed with some off-white to add an aged weathered effect if you've seen any of my previous videos you will have seen me use natural dried sifted dirt and beige colored grout mixture the paved area is masked with a failed attempt at doing the paved patio that was conveniently left out at least that piece of plywood is going to good use it was actually just the printed brick paving that was not dark enough and it was proving difficult trying to remove the paper once it was glued to the plywood using the stocking to help apply the dirt texture makes it much easier to get a good even coverage the dirt layer is fixed with isopropyl alcohol to dab in the area and then mist it with my cynically mixture made using one part Mod Podge three parts water and a few drops of dish soap I used three different static crosses although they were all of the two millimeter variety some mini nature late fall and early fall as well as some woodland Scenic's light green were all mixed together to give a nice variety of color and to match the dry weather we've been experiencing lately with the static grasshopper ready to go some woodland Scenic's static tack is used to glue the grass onto the diorama it drives reasonably quick so I only work in small sections at a time I continue working around the model until I get the desired coverage it always amazes me how much of a different static grass makes to the look of the scene gluing in the house down now helps me decide where the trees and bushes best fit into the scene I try to avoid using too much glue when gluing the house just in case at some point I want to remove it later do you use on another diorama the fence is also added now it was constructed using 0.75 millimeter plywood cut into strips and then cut to the approximate height of a fence in hecho scale the easiest way I've found to construct a fence is to lightly spray a piece of paper with spray adhesive and then line all the fence palings onto the paper then add the stringers and your fence is ready to be installed don't worry if a couple of palings come off it could actually make a nice effect having one or two missing or you can just glue them back on the fence posts are aligned in space with the ruler and glued directly into the foam the rest of the fence is glued onto the posts it takes quite a while to make a long fence but it certainly looks good once it's complete before I get too much further into the scenery I'll quickly show you how to make amazing solar panels the panel pictures were downloaded from Google and sized in Photoshop so they are correct for hecho scale the printed panels are then glued onto some leftover clear packaging I use the aerosol can to help press down and roll out excess glue and help remove bubbles once that's dry each panel is cut out and pressed into the frame that was 3d printed earlier on the aina and for all the dimensions are made to fit together nice and snug now a drop of glue is applied to the back of each panel to make sure they don't fall out to fix the solar panels to the roof some small point seven five millimeter spaces are added and painted black now glue is added to those spaces and the panels are fixed into position and we can't forget the aerial these trees are placed and glued with some halma super tack glue having more trees is generally better than not having enough oh and did I mention I had to mow the lawn it seems there are quite a lot of unwanted four and five millimeter fibers quite evenly scattered across my lawn but my beard trimmer took care of that I did leave some areas behind because it was a nice effect in the right spots the rest of the scenery textures were added like my blended and sifted leaf texture some woodland Scenic's coarse turf and some yellow flowers once you're happy all that gets sealed in place with alcohol and scenic glue just be sure to mask the house to avoid getting glue over any of the walls and windows for a bit of an extra effect I'm adding an LED to the interior however I don't want every window to be illuminated so using a piece of black foam sheet I cut out sections to mask some of the windows the LED will need to poke through the base which was quite easy to do with a sharp knife given that the base is only made up of quite thin plywood and foam an ice cream stick is attached to the inside to give the LED a place to mount onto the edges of the diorama are framed with some PVC foam board after the glue has had time to dry excess is trimmed away a regular hobby knife will work however as you can see using an ultrasonic knife makes this job all that much easier now we're almost finished the edges need to be painted and I use black to help create a vignette which draws the focus of the viewer to the center of the diorama and finally once all that's done the LED has to be installed and we can attach the roof only a small amount of glue was used to hold the roof just in case we need to remove it again to replace the LED at some point and we're finished it's amazing what level of detail can be achieved with a tool like a 3d printer next time I'll have to create a complete model that also shows the interior along with all the furnishings also don't forget if you want to learn more about 3d printing or anything else for that matter you can check out the sponsor of the videos skill share and if you like the video and want to help support the channel I have a patreon page with patron perks that you might like to check out Cheers and thanks for watching

Channel: Luke Towan

Views: 673,558

Keywords: Realistic scenery, diorama, realistic diorama, 3D printing, how to build a diorama, how to build a model, build realistic models, 3D printed model, realistic model railroad, boulder creek railroad, luke towan, how to build scale models, woodland scenic, model railroad, model railroad scenery, using static grass, how to use static grass, Anet N4, Anet N4 3D printer, Anycubic Photon, how to make scenery, model scenery

Id: MYJzMUFeE20

Length: 24min 0sec (1440 seconds)

Published: Sat Sep 21 2019

Reddit Comments

[u/mcfuddlebutt]

This dude amazes me