Build an EXTREMELY tiny RC Truck & Obstacle Course - *You Can Drive On!*

[Music] uh hey all and welcome back to another exciting tutorial in this video i'll not only show you how to build and paint this amazing looking truck that you can actually drive around but i'll also show you how to make an awesome obstacle course so you'll have somewhere to drive your vehicle with a bit of a challenge so let's not waste any more time and get started building this great little truck the truck i'm building is the das 87 ifa w50 from tiny4x4.com this kit is great for beginners who are just starting out with tiny rc cars but seasoned professionals will also have fun with a kit like this here's a quick rundown of all the components you'll get in the kit the dc motor rear axle gearbox front axle assembly rims and tires chassis and main body micro switch and power plugs other items you'll need to purchase separately are the electronic speed controller radio receiver and 1.7 g servo all available from tiny 4x4 you'll also need a suitable battery for me this is a 250 milliamp battery that was small enough to fit inside the body of the truck some tiny leds are needed if you plan to add headlights and tail lights and lastly you'll want a compatible radio controller that will work with the receiver all of this can be bought online but there's only one way to ensure your security online while shopping and that's with our sponsor nordvpn hey you're about to miss the turn right over here yeah my phone says take a right here are you sure i mean it doesn't look safe sure it is i have nordvpn it protects me from spies and hackers trying to steal my data whenever i'm online nordvpn is a virtual private network i can surf the web anonymously all of my data is encrypted and my location stays private it's like a cloaking device that protects me wherever i go where did they go they are the best because they have super fast servers in thousands of locations across the globe and as a bonus you get access to geo-blocked content from anywhere in the world want to watch the great model railway challenge but this happens no worries just set your location to the uk and start watching to get nordvpn on a two-year plan with 68 off visit nordvpn.com and to get four months extra for free make sure you use the promo code talent oh that's cool i'll go and check out nordvpn.com and use the promo code towen the chassis and body are 3d printed a common problem with 3d printed parts is warping which is just noticeable on the chassis to straighten it out i simply heat up the chassis near the center and gently apply pressure to bend it back and remove the warping you'll also want to tidy up any 3d printed support marks sometimes you'll have small raised bumps that can be easily sanded you can also smooth out any spots where layer lines from the 3d printing process might be visible before i start assembling the model i give it an undercoat the body gets put aside to get its final paint job later however the chassis gets a base coat of dark black brown color because we are about to start adding the drive components just make sure to scrape away paint from any unwanted areas like this spot where the body presses onto the chassis and also where the rear wheel axle clips onto the chassis let's start by assembling the rear axle gearbox there are only a few steps and it goes together quite quickly before i close the gearbox i add a small drop of oil to ensure nice smooth running gears once that's done it's just a matter of carefully connecting the two halves of the gearbox making sure that all the gears stay in their proper spot as the two halves are pressed together once the screws are screwed on we can attach the motor but first the gearbox needs to be pressed onto the chassis before attaching the motor i solder on some thin wires doing this now will make it easier when it comes to doing the rest of the wiring later the motor itself helps clamp the gearbox to the chassis so once the motor has been attached and the screw inserted it will firmly hold onto the chassis and won't move it's a good idea to test the gearbox now just to make sure that it all works now onto the steering assembly these tiny axles have a slightly larger diameter at the top so when you hammer them into the steering knuckles they will punch all the way through and should move freely without falling back out [Music] the steering knuckle can then be attached to the front beam by gently bending the brass just enough so the nubs on the steering knuckle can slot into the front beam once it's in some pliers are used to press the brass back down so the knuckle won't fall back out the same process is also used to attach the tie bar to the other side of the steering knuckle when doing this just make sure to orientate the steering knuckles properly they have a slight angle on each knuckle and should be angled inwards towards each other now this is a bit of a tricky part we need to attach the front assembly using the brass pin locating the pin so it passes through the chassis and the hole in the front of the beam is a bit of a challenge just go slowly and gently until you start to see the pin moving then you'll know you've got the right spot it's very easy to break the 3d printed chassis so you want to just be very gentle and careful you also want it to pivot freely right now it's much too tight so wedging a knife here will help free up the pin just enough the servo motor is a press fit you'll most likely need to trim off the two screw tabs on each side so that it fits once you've got it fitted the screw is attached as always i give it a test fit and then just to make sure that it doesn't move i added a few drops of glue there's a great little spot for the charging port on the side but you'll need to use a file to get it to fit and the switch is glued right next to it once it's painted black the switch will blend right into the frame now for the wiring this is the most difficult part but luckily on this model there is a big area inside the rear of the body where we can easily fit all the components i'm definitely no expert on soldering so i'll leave you with a pictorial view of how everything is wired together to help prevent a glowing truck body i paint a couple of layers of black and silver paint around the front headlight interior then each led is glued into the body with some tacky glue the rear taillights are also glued in however there's no hole for them so you'll need to drill out some small holes for them to fit into again they get a test and a quick drive i couldn't resist now for painting i won't spend too much time on this because colour choice is really up to you there's no right or wrong way to paint this model however there are a few tips you might find helpful like using blue tack as a paint mask to fill in odd shapes even on a small model like this it had its fair share of masking once the base colour was down i painted on some rust chipping with vallejo rust and a fine tip brush streaking effects are added with mig oil brusher and some enamel thinners working in a downward stroke to simulate dirt and grime streaking down from the rain in the end i felt like the rust chipping was a little heavy so i went back over the model with the base color and redid the rust chipping this time not so heavy there's even room for a driver in this model something not often seen in these tiny cars because they are often really tight on space with all the electronics to really make the model pop we'll need some windows these were laser cut on the laser cutter after taking a photo of each window i used photoshop to trace the shape of the window and exported that drawing as an svg file that way i could import the svg file into the beam studio app and scale it accordingly the window itself is thin clear styrene stuck onto a piece of scrap acrylic the black marker helps the star invisible so i know exactly where to position the file to be cut once i know where to position the cut i simply adjust the settings appropriate for the material and cut as you can see for small jobs like this it's very fast now the windows are attached the front windshield has a slight curve which can be added by bending the clear plastic to match the curvature a bead of tacky glue is more than enough to hold the windows in place and it looks 100 times better with the windows now all those wires can be carefully pushed into the body even though there's a lot of room in this model it can still be a little tricky plus you don't want any wires shorting or breaking off so you want to be as gentle as you can be to help stop light leaks from their rear taillights i use some black plasticine to cover the back of each tail light now the chassis gets a bit of weathering painting over the switch and also adding some rust chipping using a sponge this time dust effects are also added with some light dust from the scale modeler supply the same dust is applied to the wheels giving them a nice weathered look using my finger to wipe away any excess pigment now for the tail lights white tail lights are a bit strange so to make them red a small drop of red paint is applied now they look much better the wheels are pressed onto the axles you may need a drop of glue one of the rear wheels for me was a little bit loose and lastly some extra detail is added using the elfen 3d printer this printer has turned out to be extremely useful i use it on almost every project so i definitely recommend something like this if you build lots of models or even just a few it has been a real game changer for me i ended up printing an exhaust an air intake and some tiny mirrors once the parts are cleaned and removed from the supports they are primed and painted and glued onto the model when it comes to charging the model you'll need a charger that is capable of charging a single cell lipo most hobby chargers will be capable and your local hobby shop will surely be able to help answer any questions you have the truck looks really great and is perfect for anyone just starting out building rc vehicles now that we've finished building the truck we can start on the scenery as with all my dioramas they start off with a bottle i mean a uh a solid base nothing too fancy just a wooden frame glued and clamped and stapled together the core is made using extruded polystyrene cut to fit nice and snug inside the wooden frame it gets fixed permanently into the frame with a bead of polyurethane glue the track plan is traced onto the base however as you're about to see i should have just drawn the track plane directly onto the foam i used for the road bed surface because basically doing it the way i initially did it i had to draw the track plan twice nevertheless before committing to the final layout i give the cars a test just to make sure they can actually get around the tight curves [Music] and here's where i had to transfer the track onto my second piece of foam once happy with the course i cut away the excess foam and cut the course into its separate sections before positioning it onto the baseboard to have the road change in elevation some risers made using scrap foam are cut i need to be mindful of the maximum gradient the truck can handle so i test it a few times before gluing the foam into place too steep and the truck tends to tip on its rear and it has no useful steering a little bit lower and it should be just right the easiest way to glue the road and the risers would be to use a hot glue gun however a good spray adhesive also works but you may need some additional pins using the spray adhesive to help hold the foam down now i just work my way along the course adding risers and pins as i go the sections that cross the planned river are cut and to remove foam to create the riverbed i'm using a hot wire foam cutter routing tool [Music] to fill in the terrain and create the contours i used a roll of craft paper but if you have got any old newspapers lying around that would work perfectly as well the rolls of paper are torn away and scrunched up gradually filling out the scene to help the paper stay where you want it you can use some of the spray adhesive to help hold it down all of this will be covered with plaster soon so you don't need it to be too precise to further refine the terrain contouring the area is covered with sculpted modelling mix this stuff is perfect for this type of application simply add water until it's a thick consistency that can still hold its shape it's very similar to the more common sculptor mold and is really easy to use you can just slap it on and push it around filling in the scene and molding it into hills and mounts it also does a great job of holding its shape so it's perfect for steep hills it can also hold its shape on small overhangs like this to create tunnels and caves as the plaster starts to set i continue to smooth it out especially on the sections of road because i want them to be nice and smooth the hillsides don't matter as much but i do tend to keep everything nice and smooth so i can go in later and add more texture to specific locations as desired a few rock molds here and there also look great to help liven up the scene if you're not happy with the look don't be afraid to hack into the scene and make changes the span between these two hills was much too close but it was easy enough to chop away what i didn't like and patch it up with some more plaster i make sure to add some undulations to the road surface as well just to make the drive a little bit more challenging the dremel makes light work of the fascia so now the front of the river will be visible to the viewer to build the bridges i used a variety of wooden materials pieces of strip wood and even some small icy pole sticks the micro mark chop it got a lot of use building these bridges this tool has definitely had its fair share of use i don't use any specific techniques for the wooden bridges just some basic techniques and tachycraft glue to assemble the structure i didn't even pre-draw any templates i just had an idea in my head of what i wanted the bridge to look like and i just started cutting and gluing once each section was built i'd test fit and cut it into the terrain if required and then basically construct the bridge in place this actually worked quite well especially for fitting the bridge into uneven terrain a small amount of sanding was done just to make the run over the bridge a little smoother some extra detail is added to make the bridge look nice and also to help keep the wheels from running off the edge the lower bridge over the water is just a bunch of twigs from the backyard but they certainly look effective to help the bridges blend in some dark brown is painted over almost a wash consistency and once dry the entire bridge is dry brushed with some off-white to give it an aged look the fastest and easiest way i know to paint rocks first some grey second a black acrylic wash liberally applied over the top and dabbed with a paper towel to remove excess and finally a dry brush with some off-white three steps and they look awesome the rest of the area is painted with an earthy brown to hide any remaining white trying my best to be careful around the nice rocks we just painted the dirt texturing is made using an actual dirt mixed one to one with beige colored grout in this case it was davco tumbleweed colour i mix three grades fine medium and coarse because there are a lot of steep surfaces on this model i'll need to paint some diluted mod podge mat over the surface before applying the dirt texturing just to make sure that the grout will stick i started with the river and covered the riverbed with lots of the coarse stones first followed by a sprinkling of fine dirt texture this process is repeated across the surface of the model until all the brown painted areas are covered with the dirt texture once it's all covered any excess from the rock surfaces is dusted away with a soft brush to fix all this down i'm using my scenic glue mixture one part mod podge mat three parts water and a few drops of dish soap along with the isopropyl alcohol to help the glue soak into the dirt spraying both bottles at the same time seem to work quite well and this is continued until the entire model is covered with glue you want to make sure you apply plenty of glue to ensure that the dirt is fully soaked especially along the river surface because there is quite a thick layer of dirt along the river the bridges can be glued down in place now the riverbed needs a bit of colour i plan to cover it in quite a murky brown colour so all i really need to do is show a bit of depth basically a medium brown is applied followed by darker layers of brown and black towards the center of the river i really soak the area heavily so all the colours blend together with a smooth gradient using the airbrush as i've done in previous videos could also work well in this case once all that is dried i give the surface a dry brush with some off-white to bring out some of the surface detail now the log bridge can be added and permanently glued down a bit more blending of the bridges can be done with some of the medium dirt texture and then to highlight the road a lighter dirt and grout mixture is added along the road surface once that's done a second misting of alcohol and glue is applied to fix the dirt in place now for my favorite detail the water this is deep cast clear epoxy from aa composites in australia along with some murky water tint from woodland scenics this stuff is perfect for doing rivers like this i first make sure to seal up the ends of the river so the epoxy doesn't spill out onto the floor now i can start mixing it's mixed in a ratio of two to one this stuff has a long working time so there's no rush to finish it's a slow curing resin which is why it's good for doing large deep pores once the two parts are combined i mix for about five minutes it will go cloudy initially but as the resin mixes together it will gradually clear up next i add the water tint until i get the color i like i also ended up adding a couple of drops of blue to give it a hint of a blue reflection it's also a good idea to have some paper towels isopropyl alcohol and a hot glue gun ready to go to clean up any leaks and plug them if needed now i just take my time and gradually fill up the river with the resin it's quite mesmerizing watching the river come to life in this step if you need to you can use a stick to push the resin around if required however it will fill in all the gaps as it finds its own level over time and speaking of level you want to ensure your workbench is level before pouring after about 10 minutes you can pop the surface bubbles with a butane torch but just try to avoid setting the bridge on fire [Music] now it's left for about 24 hours after it's set we can remove the dam pieces peel away any excess hot glue and trim down the lip right on the edge of the river i create a mask for the river using some mod podge gloss i still need to do a lot of scenery and glue spraying so to protect the surface i paint over a thick layer of mod podge once the last bit of gluing is done i can come back and peel this layer of mod podge away now for static grass i'll be using a range of grass from war world scenics along with the woodland scenic static king and some spray adhesive to start with a mixture of two millimeter grass is applied first this is a general covering and layers will be built up on top of this the spray adhesive is carefully applied in the desired areas in the past i've generally used mod podge to fix the grass down however i wanted to give this method a try after seeing it done by luke over at geek gaming scenics and i gotta say it worked quite well not to mention it was fast once that layer is down excess is removed with a vacuum that has a stocking over the end to collect the loose fibers a second layer of two millimeter beige is added next and again excess is vacuumed away i continue to add various shades and lengths of static grass gradually building up the depth and color i also tease certain areas a little to give the grass a more rough filled look more ground texture is added using ground leaves and some various foams from woodland scenics the ground leaves are definitely one of my favorite textures to use just like the dirt you'll need to apply some mod podge lightly diluted with some water on the hills and slopes so the texturing material sticks and doesn't just slide down to the bottom i apply these textures right across the surface of the model building it up more in certain areas and lighter in others doing my best to get them to stick to the slopes the various foams add color and a hint of weeds and low-lying shrubs before gluing any unwanted textured material is dusted away from the road surface and just like the dirt textures these two get glued down by misting over isopropyl alcohol and some of the scenic glue mixture don't forget to soak up excess glue especially from the rock surfaces because they can start to become shiny road tyre markings are created using yellow ochre pastel ground down to a fine dust using a nice soft brush it is lightly applied along each of the wheel tracks it is then dusted and feathered out so that it blends in with the rest of the scenery now we can remove the river mask by peeling it up i didn't give the mask quite enough time to fully dry however those spots that didn't dry can be wiped up with a damp paper towel now it's time for some ripples this will really transform the river into something that looks amazing mod podge gloss is again painted over in a thin coat next the airbrush is used to blow the wet mod podge creating those nice river riffles it also removes any bubbles from the mod podge as well i only work in small sections at a time because the mod podge can tend to dry quite fast and don't forget to wipe away any spills while it's still wet the suspension bridge uses the same icy pole sticks as the bridge i built earlier each plank gets cut to size and weathered using some leather dye diluted in isopropyl alcohol after the planks have a light soaking in the dye they are left to dry and then dry brushed with some off-white to bring out the wood grain texture to support the planks across the gap i'm simply gluing some wool thread you'll need to seal the ends of the thread with some super glue this will make it much easier to glue them into the holes we just drilled a small amount of tacky glue is used to initially attach the thread and then once they are in some more glue is applied to make sure they hold tight now all we need to do is apply a drop of glue along the thread and drop in each of the planks until the span has been covered and of course we need to give it a test the last bit of scenery to add are the trees and bushes i used a lot of woodland scenics finely foliage and briar patch on this model i also used a bunch of trees that were made using a combination of small twigs from the garden covered with poly fibre and ground foam as well as some that have finely foliage attached to the branches the last job that needs to be done is to paint the edges black to help frame the model and we're done this model was so much fun to build and it now gives me somewhere to drive my rc vehicles you could even make a few of these models and connect them together so you can drive across some different scenes don't forget to subscribe right here and check out more awesome content like this video here there are heaps of new tips tricks and ideas you'll be able to apply to your own modelling projects and really take your skills to a whole new level cheers and thanks for watching

Channel: Luke Towan

Views: 868,251

Keywords: r/c truck, tiny radio controlled car, how to build model railroad scenery, how to build scenery, building realistic scenery, building realistic scenery from scratch, model railroad scenery, model railroad, realistic forest tutorial, how to model a grass field, luke towan, boulder creek railroad, realistic scenery, woodland scenics, HO scale vehicles

Id: s0d3XTtiwYE

Length: 29min 2sec (1742 seconds)

Published: Tue Dec 15 2020