3 Simple Inventions with Car Alternator

hi guys welcome back to my channel mr electron  and this what you see is a car alternator not   just any car alternator it is a bmw alternator  with the current value of up to 180 amperes   that is why it is so special and how i know that  i'll show you on its label so guys here as you   can see that it's the value alternator and it's  also printed bmw meaning volts and 180 a meaning   amps so it is 14 volts 180 amperes now guys  this alternator stopped working so to be sure   we will have to look into it well guys this one  seems like a perfect fit yeah it's an 8mm   okay got this piece out here you can see  this saying be positive which is the main   output positive terminal of this alternator  well the brushes seem fine i will give you   a close-up that's the roto slip rings and if  you look closely you will see the brushes okay   so guys it's time to do some winding check you  see this this and this these three terminals   these are the wires coming out from this  winding copper winding which is the army   joining okay so let's check the resistances  oh the resistance is quite low it is around   0.2 ohms that's pretty low  let's go for the other one   yeah this one also 0.2 ohms now comes  the far ones again 0.2 ohms so yeah the   alternator is working fine for the  armature at least now that's left   is the rectifier well guys now comes the  part of finding the fault in the alternator   if there is or if there is not so first we  are going to do the self-excitation testing   well guys i'm also going to measure the current of  this high current motor 1.5 hp let's see how much   it draws okay so yeah let's start the setup you can see that the setup has started   and if we measure the current  that this motor is drawing okay   it is drawing a 0.19 amps at around  70 volts that's pretty efficient   well guys this time i'm going to  connect the multimeter terminals   to check if it generates some voltage and if it  is getting self-excited since entire body of the   alternator is negative so i'm going to connect  it to the body of course okay so turning it on   well guys here as you can see that  it is generating around 0.6 volts   dc so all i have to do is increase the rpm of  the alternator and check if it can self excite   you can see that the voltage on the multimeter  is increasing pretty high volts almost one   volt close to one volt that is almost one  volt yeah it should get self excited now   i don't know why isn't it getting self-excited  let's go a little higher and see what happens   that is 1.7 volts still nothing turning  it off well guys finally i will have to   take this part out you see one two three  these three screws let's open them   and let's see what the problem is nice and easy  okay well the brushes as you can see are pretty   good not a single problem well this what you see  these are the slip rings for the router inside   or you can say the field winding let's check  the field winding if it is working or not so   guys for testing the field winding i'm going to  use this 15 volts 3 ampere supply and let's see   if there is a spark when i connect these to  the slip rings or touch it to the slip rings   that would be more appropriate  yeah there is [ __ ] no doubt   so uh the field winding is fine let's make sure  that the mag there is no short token by ensuring   the availability of good magnetic field and  the field coil inside is a really inductive   and as soon as i remove one terminal  it is going to give a good flyback so   there is still hope for it to be let's do it like  this okay yeah good magnetic field is being formed   i can feel it when i rotate uh the rotor  the magnetic field is pretty good which   means the field winding is perfect and the slip  rings are also fine so there is no fault here   well uh let's open this case type thing and  see what is inside maybe the folders in here   uh you see here it seems like uh the  electric cable bus bar system and this entire   uh circuit is filled with  some kind of gel you see   so guys it seems like this three phase  rectifier is fine but there is some problem with   this voltage regulator uh maybe the diodes within  this have stopped working or something like that   so anyways uh there's always a solution or  shortcut to situation like these which is   this so let's remove it this is going to be the  direct positive terminal for this alternator okay   almost out okay finally as you can see this one  is the positive terminal for the brush so i will   have to give a solder over here and extend our  wire or something like that and uh about this   let's just cover it as it was before okay yeah  so guys here i'm going to use this uh red wire   to add to the new brush uh slot or connection  that we just opened that's the positive one   that's done pretty good   so placing everything back as it was before so you get a screwdriver thin as possible   and uh then push the brushes so that it creates  space for the slip rings okay first one done now   the second one yeah second one also done now  all we gotta do is tighten up the screws   yeah it's running smooth so guys for confirmation  let's just check the resistance of the field   winding or the rotor winding for which uh the  positive brush that is feeding the field winding   is this one and the negative is the body  of the alternator yeah the resistance is a   9.4 ohms so the coil is fine once again the  magnetic field check positive will be given   to the red terminal and negative is the  body you see and now we are in business   so let's connect it like this and yeah pretty  good magnetic field has been established   and i remove it it's free to run  okay look closely to the shaft   and it has become hard you see it is asking for  a lot of power to operate and when i remove it   then it will run really smooth so guys the final  check will be completed by finding out if it is   generating electricity or not so yeah this is a  55 watts bike headlamp 12 volts 55 watts so one   terminal here i'm connecting to the positive okay  done and uh this side will be connected as i said   to any part of the alternator since the body of  the alternator is negative yeah so that is also   done now for feeding the rotor or field winding  again the negative will be connected to the body   of the alternator done and positive to the brush  okay done you see and guys here i'm feeding the   field winding or the rotor winding with uh the  laptop charger 15 volts output okay go wow   well this is working pretty good  again and this time a little harder   nice so guys here as you can see that i've  turned off the lights once again okay go   guys this is a large stepper motor brand  vekstar stepping motor five phase with a   dc current per phase of 2.8 amperes oriental made  in japan so guys uh now let's measure the voltage   per phase of the stepper motor ac output okay so  i have pointed the meter towards 200 volts ac mode   now let's connect the phase wires to the  multimeter cables and turn it with hand   you can see the generated voltage is  somewhere around 6 volts or 7 volts ac   rope rotation voltage as high as 73 volts ac   now let's try and glow this bulb with the stepper  motor and you can see that it is glowing brightly   now what i'm going to do is use uh five of these  bridge rectifiers 35 amperes each and connect them   all of them in parallel to increase the overall  output current generated by the stepper motor   now guys all the five phases of the stepper  motor have been connected individually to the   rectifiers and the output of the rectifiers have  been connected in parallel and the final output is   being connected right now you see yeah the final  output has been finally connected now guys it's   time to do the test with this bulb and see how  bright it glows when all the phases are going to   power it so guys the question for today is how  many diodes will be used to make a five-phase   rectifier again how many number of diodes  will be used to make a five-phase rectifier   so   so   do   uh   so   next next level   so   next level   so   hi guys in my previous video you saw me make a  powerful high current three phase rectifier from   two single phase rectifiers 35 amperes each  so today in this video i'm going to test this   rectifier on a car alternator okay which you  have already seen in one of my previous videos   now guys if you look closely on its pack you  will see that three-phase rectifier is missing   and the voltage regulator is also missing and the  brush terminals are out blue and red over here   and since there is no rectifier only three  wires output wires are present this one   this one this one which are the three phase  so to get a dc output we will need to add   a rectifier let's move on to the connection of  the rectifier so take the rectifier and place   it on any of the screws available you see  here there are three screws this one this   one this one so i'm going to choose this  one because the placing is just easier and   no other reason and you can see that i've also  placed this sheet with this hole or board in it   which is going to help me place it rigidly so you  see that it goes like this and i have this nut   now tighten up this one also and now we have  a pretty good physically stable three-phase   rectifier on the body of the alternator just as  another part that is attached to an alternator so   guys let's first remove the final output wires  which are these two the red and the black okay   they are getting in the way of me connecting  the rectifier electrically to the alternator   and here they are removed i'm going to connect  it afterwards so let's electrically connect   all the three together not together to the to  the respective pins for the help of the clips   so the first is the blue one attached to the  first wire of three face second the black one   okay you see that's the black one another  ac done now all that is left is the last   one taking it from below and we have the third  one also connected so guys all the three wires   from the rectifier the three-phase wires from  this custom made rectifier have been connected   to the output wires from the armature winding  of the car alternator which were these three one   two and three okay now comes the part of getting  the output from the rectifier this one is black   okay so negative connected positive and process  and done so guys positive negative both have   been connected and finally we have the two  wires on which the entire generated output   voltage and current will be available  in the form of dc or direct current okay   let's place the alternator like this and we have  a robust setup over here easy to operate and yeah   this piece of the rectifier it has a great quality  that uh it can handle a surge current of up to   400 amperes and a continuous current of up to  50 amperes because of the two rectifiers and   one rectifier has a capability of only up to 35  amps so let's test it without any further delay   now guys you might have already seen this laptop  charger of mine now if you look closely you will   see that it's rated at 12 volts and 5 amperes  which is what i'm going to feed this alternator   with on its rotor winding although the current  is not going to be exactly 5 amperes because the   rotor winding does not need so much current for  excitation it excites even at 1 amps or 1.5 amps   here are the two wires positive for red and black  for negative which will be connected on these two   wires black being the negative will be connected  to the blue first let's connect the red wire okay   red wire has been connected you see now comes the  black but i will connect it afterwards first i   will have to connect a load on these two terminals  or a meter and then do some hand rotation and rope   rotation here as you can see that i have this  car headlamp bulb 55 watts so let's connect it   to the two final output wires of the rectifier  okay as you can see that it has been connected   now guys let's warm the thread on the pulley off  the alternator and then see how bright it glows   okay this much should be fine one more time  okay now keep watching the bulb over here   oh you see now let's turn off the lights and  see how good it is this time this guy's finding   thread once again although the pulley gets  really tight when i pull it if the pulley had   been bigger uh then the pulling part would be a  little bit easier and the pulp would have cloned   even better but let's do it now ah yeah it  is good this way also now guys here as you   can see that i have the multimeter so uh let's  point it towards dc voltage measurement mode   okay and this is the heatsink that i'm  using it that i'm using as support okay   multimeter has been connected well guys it seems  that the multimeter should be closer and the   alternator should be on the other side because  it's not clear yeah and now it is visible okay   so let's wound the thread and see how much voltage  it indicates now guys i am measuring the maximum   voltage possible that this alternator is going to  generate okay and why am i doing that because i   have removed the voltage regulator or you can say  that i've bypassed the voltage regulator so the   alternator is free to generate as much voltage as  possible depending upon the rpm i give here okay   the voltage regulator limits the output voltage to  12.5 or maybe 13 volts but there is no limit now   i have added separate rectifiers okay so  let's round the thread and see what happens   okay so guys keep watching the display screen  here okay go as you saw it was around 17.5 volts   dc now guys this is a very good multimeter with  600 amps current display and all but there is one   problem is the super fast display okay you see  that i have to rotate and then it takes little   time to display the exact voltage which is not the  case with this cheap one although it does not have   so many functions and uh easiness but still its  spontaneous time instantaneous time is really good   so let's disconnect this multimeter and switch  it with the other one and then do the same test   okay so multimeter has been connected once  again winding thread let's move it aside   keep watching the display screen okay go you  saw that it was somewhere around 19.5 volts   now guys you have already  seen the voltage now let's   point it towards the current measurement mode 10  amperes okay and move our pointer like this   okay keep watching the display screen  guys okay 7.5 amperes that was pretty good   although uh the pulley is very small it  was really hard for me to pull the thread   and 12 7 84 so the maximum power that i am  producing over here is 84 watts if we consider   only 12 volts then it is 84 watts but if we  consider 20 volts because of no voltage regulator   then this power is going to increase from 84 to  20 into 7.5 so a 7014 140 and uh like 0.5 extra   so you see that how removing the voltage  regulator actually increases the overall   output power of a car alternator you can use  a stable buck converter to reduce the voltage   output voltage from 20 to 12 volts just as  in solar panels and you can get more power   output from the same alternator let's give it  one more try go you saw 9.54 amperes almost   10 amperes that is the maximum capability of this  multimeter to read otherwise it is going to get   damaged i mean the shunt resistance inside it  now guys i have this really big 250 watts bulb   okay you see 24 volts and 250 watts star light  so let's connect this and see how bright it glows   or even if it is possible for this alternator  to glow this just by hand rotation okay so   the bulb has been safely connected complete the  thread winding part done okay connection made   okay keep watching the bulb over here okay oh it was really difficult the tungsten filament   is really thick yeah and it is hot now guys let's  try it once again in full close-up you see okay   yeah that's the max i can do now guys here as  you can see that i have connected a very powerful   large dc motor permanent magnet dc motor to the  car alternator with the help of this belt okay   and the rating of this dc motor is 1.5 hp  rpm 4000 volts 180 7.5 amperes and field   permanent magnet and you see that here i have this  rectifier installed and no voltage regulator and   i want to see what is the maximum voltage i can  achieve if i bypass the voltage regulator meaning   no voltage regulator at all okay so let's connect  the dc motor supply to this motor controller   okay so let's turn on the supply now okay go   and now let's connect the final excitation  terminal from the laptop charger   so guys the output voltage as you can  see is around 8 volts only 8 volts dc   let's increase it by increasing the  rpm of the dc motor of course   you see i've increased the speed of the dc motor  voltage has increased to 9.46 let's go more   we have reached around 12 volts and crossing almost 15 volts   and close to 17 volts let's go even higher   17.18 volts you see that the voltage  regulator fixes the output voltage   of the alternator to around 13 volts and  we have gained around 18 volts more   90 20 volts guys 20 volts let's go more   20 to 23 volts a 12 volts alternator is producing  24 volts almost and we are doing almost full   here and the belt can break at any time okay  let's reach 24 volts and see what happens   here we are we are reaching 26 volts so let's turn  it off that was seriously a great experiment guys   so you see that if we bypass the voltage  regulator if we remove the voltage regulator   from car alternator we can go to much higher volts  than to what it is designed for so guys i hope   you liked or enjoyed this video please hit like  and don't forget to share and subscribe see you   in the next one with more wonderful videos  related to alternatives and dc motors okay   hit that subscribe button and 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Channel: The Professor

Views: 730,664

Keywords: 3 simple inventions, 12v, 110v, car alternator, alternator, motor, stepper motor

Id: j5JoE2Z_WRk

Length: 34min 56sec (2096 seconds)

Published: Thu Mar 24 2022