1986 Range Rover; Will it start? - Edd China's Workshop Diaries

[Music] welcome to the workshop [Music] [Applause] well john's garden fine range rover is certainly taking far longer to get to the mot station than i first imagined but we are inching closer the new fuel lines are in position and once the tank's back in and connected up we might finally get this thing to start [Music] right well here we go this is a good moment we have our fuel tank it's looking and span on the inside and the outside and so it's now basically the last thing to fit onto our range over before we can find out whether we've solved all the leaks on our fuel system so the first thing i want to do is then take out what now basically plugs so that i can put in a brand new fuel tank sender so here it is now on our new sender you can see you've got a little tiny sort of little plastic noggin coming out the top there another one on the bottom and obviously that locates this sender the right way up now i think one might be slightly bigger than the other but you could tell it makes a difference because obviously at the moment that's where the float or the bob can actually go to the bottom of the tank if i was to get it upside down then you can see obviously when you've got half full it would say kind of half full but of course then it would say empty when the tank was full so it's quite important to make sure that it's actually the right way up so i'm just going to pop that in there like so and it's got two little top and a bottom part we have to get into the right place like so so that's good so then the next thing to do is the new fuel pump so i'm just going to take out again what now a mount so nothing more than just a plug or a cap just to fill a hole while i was doing all the cleaning it was a tiny bit leaky and that's basically because of a failed sort of insulated connector if you like so there used to be a little pin that used to come out of there a little spade that of course then was connected off and obviously that had broken off at some point so i guess someone had decided to stick a wire through that which was a bit of a gap i could have welded it up but it was actually fine okay so get rid of that so then we have our brand new fuel pump look at that so this will go very well back inside our tank all those shiny surfaces now going to match nobody's ever going to see them it's one of those things all right so just trying to get the first two in to make sure that the gasket and the fuel pump flange line up nicely with the bolt holes it'd be ashamed to cross thread anything at this stage okay so just double check they're all nice and tight the gasket do its job and seal properly so right that's it so the next stage is to fit this slightly ridiculous bit of pipe here because obviously see this end goes on to the fuel pump here and it goes all the way around to the fuel filter which of course is on the chassis leg there and these bits of foam just stop the pipe from rattling and rubbing against the both the tank but also the chassis okay let's get even more i might even just pop over there i don't think you'd ever get access to this when the tank is in position but just in case you can i'm just going to put it to the side so that should we need to get to it it should be a little bit easier having said that if we had to drill a hole in the floor to get to it then it would be hard right nice so these little champs sort of sit around here somewhere i'm not sure if that goes over the top or underneath yet but that's basically pretty much ready we've already got the filler pipe reattached to the car and we've got the breather pipe also still attached to the car so now i can think about trying to get this into the vehicle it's getting very exciting we're nearly at the point where we can try this again i mustn't forget i have the protective shield to go on the bottom like so again freshly painted just to make it look a little bit tidier and now i want to be a bit clever here i'm now going to pop on a couple of bolts and some washers so let's hope i can do this a bit of a juggle should be a lot easier now i don't have to worry about things like fuel okay first of all gotta get that into that little hole there and then i can use my head as my teachers always said i should obviously it would be just as easy to use some kind of transmission stand or jack some would say even better [Music] uh [Music] right so our brand new fuel lines are now part of the car which is quite wonderful they're connected to a fully refurbished fuel tank and we've got a fuel filter a new pump and a new sender so pretty much there's not much left on the fuel system that i need to change so i'm hoping it's now going to work but you know what i didn't think it was possible but all these nice new looking parts make the car look even worse getting a weird sense of deja vu putting in fresh new fuel into our range rovers fuel tank but hopefully second time lucky maybe sometime soon this thing is going to drive out of here gotta say i'm getting quite excited now we've got our refurbished fuel tank back where it belongs attached to the underside of our range rover we've got some new fuel lines connecting that fuel tank to the engine bay i've also attached or at least reattached my magic button so now the new fuel pump inside the tank is going to have its own dedicated supply just so i can actually test that the new system is going to work and then also to that end i've disconnected the feed pipe here and put it into a bottle so i can see when the fuel comes out not if but when that fuel comes out so when i push this button theoretically we should hear a wire and hear some splashing we have fuel fantastic the next thing i need to do is reconnect that hose to the rest of the fuel injector system and then check to see if any of that is going to leak right so now i push the button again we should hear the pump go the fuel flow around the fuel injection system and back through the return and hopefully there'll be no leaks no fuel on the floor so here we go that's quite good i can't hear any leaks all i can hear is fuel flowing i think we're on to the next stage this is getting very exciting indeed right so what we need now is a bigger battery i think [Music] so now i'm finished with my magic switch i can disconnect those wires and then connect the fuel pump to the wiring room that comes with the car now you may notice there are a few little loose ends here we've got actually a bit of the terminal that used to be attached to the original fuel sender so that obviously needs to be sorted out and then this one hasn't got a terminal at all so i'll fix that connect everything back up and then hopefully this should work from the ignition now that is a bit of a shame but it is also slightly inevitable rather than revealing a nice bit of shiny copper color copper we've got this sort of black oxide version because obviously over time it's been a lot of time the wires here the moist of the air's got to that skin and actually formed this oxide layer now the problem with that is you will get a sort of electrical connection but it won't be very good one there may be some added resistance and the thing is on with this sender the fuel sender obviously that works on resistance and therefore this is going to mean that there's going to be an inaccurate reading for one thing but also be just nice to get a really really good connection now a number of ways of fixing this problem one is you could just get some plumber's flux and you could just heat up the wire dip it into that rub it around and you should get rid of most of that oxide but it is a bit messy you could try and have a go with a little bit of sandpaper but the wires are quite small and you may remove them all together another thing is you keep cutting the wire further and further back up the loom to try and find some clean copper but then you may end up with not enough loom to connect everything together so rather like the tank i think i might go for a chemical solution now this is a two stage process the first one being some vinegar so just and then the next stage is a bit of salt now it's normally about a cup of vinegar to about a tablespoon of salt but obviously this is a smaller container than a cup and i'm just going to just dissolve that sodium chloride into our acid here now what you can do is you can add a lot more salt to the ratio and end up with a paste that can be useful for other things but this should be just right for our wires i probably do so then it really is a simple as i'm popping our wires into our solution and sort of jiggle them around a little bit it's going to take a bit of time it's minutes rather than hours i'll just leave them there for a second or perhaps some minutes maybe i can make a cup of tea as always thank you very much for watching i'm glad you're enjoying it and thank you for your questions and comments now the first thing i like to talk about is actually try and clear up a little bit of confusion about the subscription button now for many of us a subscription used to mean a commitment to a regular payment for some kind of service or whatever maybe a magazine or something now actually on youtube a subscription is really just kind of like a vote of confidence it's just telling youtube the kind of stuff you like to watch and therefore they can give you more of that kind of stuff but for us it really helps us out because it also tells youtube that people like this kind of content i'll then tell the world it should be rather wonderful but also it helps me because you're telling youtube that you like my videos and therefore they'll suggest them to other people so they can watch them and enjoy them too so the first thing is do remember to push subscribe but once you've clicked subscribe the next thing you need to do is click the bell because that means you'll get notifications every time i put up a video well let's get on with some questions i got one here from shazad he's got a 2017 citroen c4 grand picasso with a bit of a problem with his sat now basically he could be in the middle of heathrow airport and his car thinks he's in the middle of nowhere which is obviously not ideal if you're trying to navigate somewhere now the first thing to be aware of is that should you happen to flatten your battery or disconnect it then actually the gps might forget where it is or what it's doing so what you need to do then is drive it around for about 20 miles or so so it can kind of get its bearings and its little brain will then work out exactly where it is and therefore where you are now going by all the error messages you attach to your email it does all point towards the gps receiver or aerial now also having a quick google search it looks like pretty much every grand picasso has a problem with this so it might even be a bit of a design flaw now the gps receiver lives with the radio aerial on the back of your roof and i suspect that there's a little rubber seal that stops all the rain and weather and whatever from getting inside into that important electronics now if you're lucky you might better find a good second hand part on the internet but actually for less than 85 pounds you should be able to buy a replacement part from citroen themselves and it might even come with a brand new rubber seal so at least that way you know where you are with this problem so good luck with that now i've got another question here from tim johnston now he's just been rebuilding his triumph stag three liter v8 engine and he wants some of the best way to make sure that he's bled the coolant system of all the air that might be in there now in the past i have been known to either jack a car up put it on axle stands or even park it on a slope to try and get the bleed screw to end up being the highest point in the coolant system but either way before you even turn on the engine you should try and make sure the radiator is as full to the brim as possible then you can turn your attention to the header tank or the fluid reservoir now many classic cars like the spitfire can be fitted with a kind of removable header tank that has an extra long hose that goes into the coolant system and that way you can then lift that up and make that the highest point of the cooling system and obviously you want to make sure that the engine is up to temperature the thermostat is open also the heater controls mean that's fully open so the air has nowhere to hide but if that doesn't even work another thing you might want to think about is actually fitting a swirl pot now as the name suggests it's a pot that allows the water to swirl so the coolant would come in from the engine and actually going through the top of the swirl pot it would swirl around causing a bit of a vortex the water will drop to the bottom because it's slightly heavier and it will drop back out into the coolant system but that allows the air to kind of escape from the water and then it goes to another pipe back into the expansion bottle so that way it'll effectively self-bleed all the time you're driving along and that might be the best way to ensure that your coolant system will be air free forever more got another question here from robert who's got a 1943 willis jeep and he's actually quite interested in having his car actually stop when he operates the brake pedal so he's asked about the high performance friction material we used on wheeler dealers on that brilliant volvo pv544 very catchy name now that friction material was so good it actually made the volvo's drum brakes perform like discs and i was so impressed i decided to use it on our 1916 peaking to paris rally cadillac in fact because neither cadillac's actually have any brakes on the front axle it's vitally important that the rear axle brakes work rather well particularly if you're going to be driving across mongolia the thought of doing that without any brakes is quite terrifying so i modified the brakes on the 1916 axle but actually we borrowed that from the 1918 car so now it's back in the uk the brakes on this vehicle are the upgraded ones and what's really interesting about the brakes on the cadillac is it's got like a what looks like a normal drum brake system and it's got shoes on the inside but it's also these kind of bands on the outside and both of those have been replaced with this special high performance material so hopefully it'll stop on a dime as the saying goes now the people who made this for us are a company based in orange county in california and they're called racebreaks.com right let's see how those wires are doing even from the distance this is looking good give it more of a jiggle oh look at that i'm just gonna wipe off all the excess liquid but that is amazing so you can see we've now got lovely bright copper and no longer any of the copper oxide so that's great but the thing is of course that this is this chemical reaction is going to continue to sort of eat away at the copper if i don't block it so that's the second part of the process and that involves a little bit of bicarb and water right so for this just need water not even that much to be honest and then a little bit of bicarbonate of soda again just dissolve that and then this alkali is then going to basically block the acid and it's just going to stop the chemical reaction so our copper will be good to go to transfer some electrons around it'll be lovely so now i'll just pop that back in there jiggle it around a bit make sure it's nice and stirred i might leave it for a sip and then should be ready to go in a second right that should be more than enough oh this is looking fantastic so just just again dry these off well now that's dry and neutralized you can see quite clearly that's lovely fresh copper ready to make a great electrical connection it's a really handy trick right so now we are ready for some crimps i'm just going to twist that up pop that little chap on there like so saying the other two these two of the earth so they actually gonna get wound together so now it's time to disconnect the wires for my switch reconnect it to the loom and then pop these chaps into the sender it's a bit deadly and a bit closer [Music] we are tantalizingly close i'm going to turn on the ignition i was kind of hoping to hear the fuel pump just go on for a little burst because on most modern fuel injection vehicles that's what you would hear but bearing in mind that this is quite an early fuel injection car it might work a bit differently there is a way i can check to see if the pump is all connected up and all the wiring is in place and everything's working i know we checked the fuse a long time ago but it was all ready to go so if i get into the engine bay it's a little trick i can do while leaving the ignition on right so on a range rover particularly this model there's obviously this device here the airflow meter which obviously measures the amount of airflow going through the air filter in to the engine now if i just undo these jubilee clips so i'll just open this up a little bit take that out of the way and you can see inside you've got the air mass meter and you can see this little door in there if i now operate this with a screwdriver you can hear the fuel pump going on and off so that means that all of our wiring for our fuel pump all of that circuitry is working a treat and if that's working that means that we are right there i reckon if we crank it over the fuel pump's going to run and with any luck we might actually have this thing jump into life it's getting almost too much to bear let's pop it back together again and see what happens next okay so this is the moment we have been waiting for for a long time ignition on here we go oh no kind of we kind of nearly went just give it a bit of gas perhaps it sounds like it's got a little bit of a spark but i don't know obviously we know the fuel's flowing that's really quite puzzling right see if we do have a spark i've just disconnected an ht lead and then put in just a spark plug that i've got lying around and then it's connecting obviously always touching the metal work of the engine so it should have a nice enough earth so the idea is now if i crank over the engine i should be able to see the spark and that way we'll at least confirm whether we do or don't have a spark this is turning out to be a bit of a quandary we've definitely got loads of spark which is good and we know that when we operate our little door here the fuel pump works so we've got fuel and we've got spark we should definitely have bangs even if i've wobbled the dizzy and actually maybe not put it back in the right position so the sparks aren't happening quite when they're supposed to we still get some kind of bang we still get some kind of sign of life and there's nothing at the moment now what i'm wondering is we know that the fuel pump works on the button for sure but i haven't actually tested the fuel pump now it's reinstalled as part of the car so even though we can hear it actually spinning up don't know for sure that it's spinning the right way so i think i'll just crack off that fuel line again pop it into a bottle and operate it from here and then let's see if we are getting some fuel okay so here goes i can hear the pump spinning away merrily but there's no fuel coming out so that is our problem so it's kind of good news at least i know what's going on there's obviously something to do with the wiring at the other end [Music] well let's have a look at this connector here so if i just unplug it it's actually quite a good seal so i've got this one here which is obviously the one that goes all the way up into the fuel tank that's our new cable there and this is the original sort of socket if you like that was part of the car now obviously the rest of it goes to the sender so there's a common earth so that's got to be correct and then there's also the feed wire here which then would normally take the 12 volts which would then make the pump work now what's interesting is when i was playing around with my switch i actually wired up as i'd imagined so i just figured that probably the brown was probably positive and the blue was probably negative and in fact the pump then ran backwards so i strongly suspect that if we swap those wires over we might have some joy so if i now just plug in my wire so put this one into the blue one there so now so this blue one here normally connects to the black one so if i now actually connect it to the other side so i'll put it to the what would normally be the feed and then do the same on the other side to swap this one over as well and then just pop that into the other one so theoretically what was positive is now negative and vice versa so with any luck our pump should now actually produce fuel into the engine bay right let's try again fantastic so there we go mystery solved so all i have to do now is make that fix permanent [Music] right now to make this fix permanent what i need to do is somehow is swap those wires over now to do that i could either have a look at obviously the wire that's going all the way into the fuel pump or i could have a look at the stuff that's attached to the car now if i use the original cable as an idea if i just take off these other wires i don't need those anymore now if i just hold that up now the original wire would have been black and then the new wire is blue and then the original wire would have been white and the new wire is brown so interestingly the wiring on both the old pump and the new pump are the same so that's fine so then it rather suggests that perhaps it's possible that in the factory even though the cables correct that actually maybe how they were connected up onto the pump itself somehow somebody got it wrong and mixed them up now as far as the wiring on the car and also the sender obviously we know that two of those wires were both earths they were already connected together in a broken contact so i'm pretty confident that that's actually correct and obviously the white wire with the green tracer is almost certainly going to be positive so i think the car is fine i think it's this that's the problem but rather than kind of cut the wires and just solder them or use some crimps maybe to swap them over i could perhaps just pull the pins out and then swap their positions and pop them back together again so here goes okay so the first thing you need to do is a little rubber bung on the back of the connector here so now i've got my blue going to the right hand side my brow again to the left i'm now going to try and do with any luck if i just get a little bradley thing if i can do this i'm going to try and pull the wires out of the thing at the same time as kind of wiggling them round now what i'm going to try and do there's going to be two either brass or copper connectors in there and they're going to have two little pins that sort of stick out of there this pressed bit of metal that's been rolled into a tube and then that's been shoved into this plastic holder so those little kind of ears hold them in place what i'm hoping is if i can kind of wiggle it around i might just be able to disturb one or the other or both okay there's one ah okay got it right now before i forget which was which is i'm gonna put my brown wire where the blue wire used to be and then the blue wire where the brown wire used to be the only thing i can see as an issue with that is going to be our little grommet but i think we should be able to wiggle it around enough just get that last little bit in there look at that fantastic so we've now got our connectors back in our little plug and the wires although they're now kind of wrong for the wire they are now correct for the fuel pump which means i can just pop that little dust cover back in reconnect it and then we should be good to go and our pump should produce fuel all the way into the engine bay right there we go job done [Music] well surely we are now there we've got our refurbished fuel tank we've got our new fuel lines we've got our new fuel pump actually delivering fuel into the engine bay we've got a spark when i crank over this engine she should just fire into life but that is a job for today ignition on here we go [Music] well that is fantastic john is not wrong it runs beautifully i know i shouldn't rev it too much but come on this is just really what a moment after all that's happened about we now have a working range rover oh yes it's taken far too many months to get john's garden fine range rover to actually run but now it is running i'm sure he's going to be stoked for one thing but also it now means i can drive it out of the workshop and as promised to an mot station but not before i've checked all the fluids and given it a thorough clean and all of that is a job for another day you

Channel: Edd China

Views: 876,072

Keywords: How to fix a rusty fuel tank, Range Rover, 1986 Range Rover, Rust Treatment, Rust Converter, Rust Remover, Ansell Gloves, Milwaukee Tools, discovery, ed china, edd china, edd china wheeler dealers, edd china’s garage revival, edd china’s workshop diaries, garage revival, outspan orange, practical classics, velocity, wheeler dealers, wheeler dealers edd china, wheeler dealers s13, workshop, workshop diaries, fuel tank, rust, ed china workshop diaries, will it start, top tips

Id: LzxeK6yp4hQ

Length: 30min 34sec (1834 seconds)

Published: Fri Jul 16 2021