15. Editing the Veil Nebula

[Music] i know it's been a long time since my last video here in the dedicated astro course and to make up for that i wanted to do a full length workflow like you'd find in my deep space course or my astro post processing course so today i'm going to show you how i created this image of the veil nebula using my dedicated astro camera and narrow band filters all right so the first thing we're going to do is head over to deep sky stacker and we're gonna of course stack our images and i should also mention that this was actually my first time doing dithering with my sky guider pro the asi air app has now the option to do right ascension only for dithering and that's something we're going to be talking about probably in the next video i just need to do a little bit more testing but overall you know at the very least there's some dithering but let's open up our picture files and i took three minute long photos i was shooting a narrow band i did 20 photos of hydrogen alpha i did 20 photos of oxygen i only got about three photos of sulfur because my star tracker died at that point and it was like three in the morning so i just called it a night and because we only got about nine minutes worth of sulfur data and it's narrow band i'm not even going to include it today we're just going to be doing hydrogen alpha and oxygen and i think you'll be surprised by what we can turn that into so i'm going to grab my 20 hydrogen alpha photos these were taken with the asi 1600 pro it's a monochrome camera with the zwo narrow band filters now that they're loaded in i'll hit check all over on the left if i click on one of these we can move the slider up in the upper right and it came out fairly well i took this from my backyard here in utah which has really dark skies but we did have the moon come up but one of the great things with using narrow band filters is that light pollution and moonlight really doesn't interfere when you're using the narrow band images so that's pretty cool all right so that's my hydrogen alpha i also took the next morning my bias and dark frames so i'm going to grab those as well although you could argue if you're dithering you don't really need to take these necessarily but with the sky gutter pro since we're only dithering in right ascension it's not true dithering like i said i still need to do some more tests before i talk about that there we go there's our dark frames i took 20 of them and then we've got our bias frames it's like a hundred of these i didn't bother taking flats because as we've talked about they're kind of a pain to do on the asir and i don't have any even yet to deal with anyway so it's not a concern for me now that we've loaded up everything i've already registered these so it went through and gave every image a score so i'll probably go with the highest score here which is like this image it looks pretty good and i'm going to right click on it and use as reference frame that way when i stack my oxygen photos as well it's going to line up all the stars for me and i don't have to worry about manually lining things which is one of the problems i ran into way back at the start of the course so i've set my reference frame that's a big part of this workflow now i can go over to the left where it says register checked pictures i'm going to uncheck register already just because i've already done this and it's usually a good idea rather than stacking 100 of the pictures maybe do 80 or 90. that way in case one of the photos was blurry and you can catch it it'll get thrown out and it won't ruin your stack in my case i already know it's going to be fine with 100 but i just want to make you guys aware of that and if we go to the advanced tab we want to make sure we always adjust the star detection threshold slider here by default it's usually a 10 and then we can hit compute number of detected stars it's going to analyze the scene i usually like to get a couple hundred just because i can probably see a couple hundred right there so that looks fine to me if you're only finding like 10 stars or you're finding thousands of stars that's not going to work so adjust the star detection threshold the lower the percentage the more it's going to find in terms of stars once you're done with that we'll go to recommended settings and we need to choose all these different settings usually i'm going to do sigma clipping for my light frames if these other hyperlinks aren't green you'll want to click on them so they do turn green for master darks and master bias really that should be all you have to do and you can hit okay so give that a go this is our last chance to look everything over we'll see that i don't have any flat frames not a big deal but i've got my bias my dark frames and my light frames for a total of one hour of hydrogen alpha provided you don't see any red text anywhere besides in this case no flats it should be okay and then of course we'll hit ok and it's going to go through and stack everything together while this is running one thing i want to mention is that you know when you see some of the other guys doing narrow band they're capturing hours and hours and hours of data for each filter usually for me because variety factors i'm usually getting 30 minutes to an hour per filter so it's not a lot of time but you can still get great images in a short window that's the thing you know the more time you're spending out there capturing these photos obviously the better the results but for a lot of us if we can get even just an hour of data we'd still get a pretty good shot and that didn't take too long at all thankfully so once this finish is loading up here it doesn't look like much but that's okay we'll go over to the left and hit save picture to file i know a lot of people tend to work with those auto save images but i don't like dealing with them they're 32-bit files and you can't really do much with them and you have to convert them so you're better off hitting save picture to file over on the left and we'll name this hydrogen alpha whatever you want to name it and save now that we've saved our hydrogen alpha stack we'll go back to register and stacking over on the left and there's better ways of doing this i'm sure but this is just the way i've grown used to doing it so i'm going to click on my first light frame here go one above this one with a little asterisk hold down the shift key and click if you did that correctly they'll all be selected i'm going to right click and remove from list what i'm doing right now is just getting rid of all those hydrogen alpha photos and then i want to uncheck my reference frame but i want to leave it here remember the one with the little asterisk that's going to help us align all the stars across all of our filters so you always want to make sure you keep this one in the stack but unchecked you'll also notice i still have all my dark bias frames in here that's okay i only got rid of the hydrogen alpha light frames except for the reference as we talked about now what i want to do is go back to open picture files and grab my 20 oxygen frames i think i mentioned this but all of these photos were taken with three minute long exposures so they were each three minutes long the gain was like 200 on the camera i was using -10 for the sensor temperature sky guider pro william optic space cat telescope that's what i'm working with so i right clicked and checked all of my new oxygen frames which you see right here and we still have again that hydrogen alpha photo it's not checked but the reference frame is still here that way all the oxygen photos line up to it because things do move pretty substantially over the course of a few hours if you're using the skyguard approach to our adventure all right so there we go now we're going to repeat that process we'll go over to the left register checked pictures again you're probably better off changing this from 100 to maybe 90 or 80 percent but in my case i know they're all sharp i'll leave it a hundred i already know the star detection threshold at 10 is going to work so i'll click on recommended settings and again verify that you have one of these methods selected for your live frames as well as the bias and dark it should all pretty much be set from earlier we'll hit ok we have another hour here and then we'll hit ok and repeat that process once it's finished we'll be in this window we'll hit save picture to file and we would name this one oxygen for example now that we've got our hydrogen alpha and oxygen we can close out of here and move over to adobe photoshop before we head over to photoshop though i want to give you one more look at my final result from earlier this is going to be our target and one of the things i love is when you shoot narrowband you just really pull out all these amazing filaments of the nebula whereas with your stock dslr you can get a little bit of this bright area and of course part of this one and this one but it's just night and day almost when you compare them all right so let's open up photoshop now and you guys already know this process if you've watched through some of the earlier videos although i know it's been a long time so even i myself was a little bit rusty and we're going to do something different today because we only have hydrogen alpha and oxygen we're not going to include the sulfur as i mentioned so let's go to our directory here i've got my h alpha version 2 and my oxygen version 2. all right so the way this works is you're going to choose either one of these to be your base it really doesn't matter i think i'm gonna do oxygen today as my base so this is my base layer i'll go to image mode and right now it's on grayscale which means we can't do anything with the colors so let's change it to rgb color there we go now over in the lower right we have our channels tab and we see we have red green and blue so for this to work properly if you only have the two colors and you're doing the veil nebula anyway i'd recommend leaving oxygen on green and blue color channels and then for the red that's where we're going to grab our hydrogen alpha so you can hit control or command a controller command c that'll select everything and copy it go back to your oxygen tab make sure you're on the red color channel and then we'll hit controller command v to paste that data in that's all there is to it now i can click the eyeball for rgb hit control or command d to get rid of the marching ants all right we're ready to go now just to recap we've got hydrogen alpha data for red and then we're leaving oxygen on green and blue so that's all we've done so far we're gonna go back to our layers tab and now i'm gonna add a levels adjustment for me i have a little window up here for my adjustments so i have it easily accessible once this window comes up you can see we have this little spike way over on the left and that indicates that most of the image is black the way we'll fix that is move the midpoint right until we can start to see part of the nebula around there now due to a bug in photoshop it looks really pixelated right now so the way i work around that is i hit control shift alt e all at the same time or if you're on a mac that's command shift option e and that will fix the glitch with the pixelation now that we've done a basic histogram stretch we'll do one more so i'll go back to my levels and add another one and now we can actually see the two spikes we've got red and blue and i'll repeat that process we'll move the midpoint over to the left and maybe move the black point a little to the right it's starting to turn out pretty good now i'll go back to my adjustments i could even try one more levels although there's not much more i can get out of it so i'm not going to bother at this stage when you can finally see the nebula you've got two options you can either increase the contrast or fix the color cast in my case i'm going to fix the color cast first the easiest way to do that is to add a curves layer and then click on the black eyedropper it's going to be the top one of the three once you click on the black eyedropper you'll see a little eyedropper on the screen find a point in the sky that should be completely black and click on it you got a lot of choices usually so i'm just going to zoom in and say hey you know right over here should be pitch black and i'll click there we go it fixed the color cast the problem i have with the black eyedropper is that it also messes with the contrast so if you go over to the right where it says normal these are blending modes here if you click on normal i recommend putting this to just color at the very bottom of the list above luminosity so if you click on color now that this curve layer is only affecting the color and you can see it did a really nice job of removing that cyan color cast which is probably just because we have oxygen data on green and blue so there we go that was a fast easy effective way to reduce the color cast if things don't look quite right though you can always grab that black eyedropper again and just find another spot to choose from maybe somewhere down over here and then click every time you click it'll give you something a little bit different all things considered though i think that looks pretty good so we've now fixed the color cast with just one click moving on we'll go back to our adjustments and add another curves layer this time we're going to focus on the contrast so you want to make sure you click the hand tool with the two little arrows next to the finger under your curves window once you have the hand tool selected you can pick any portion of the image that you want to edit so for example if i want to make this nebula a little bit brighter i can click on it and drag my mouse upwards if you look over on the right you'll notice it added a point and it brought it up so we've added some light or boosted it you could say now that we've made the image a little bit brighter i don't want the sky to get brighter as well i want that to be darker so i can click somewhere where it should be dark and drag my mouse down and that's how we add contrast to the image that's a really nice change i'd say you could even take things further if you'd like so maybe zoom in down here click and add a point but you got to be careful because look what just happened it added this really weird curve so you got to be careful when you're working with the hand tool in this case i might just drag this point over to merge it with the other one and then manually just bring it up and then i can also grab this point and just drag it down manually i want you to also notice that in the upper right of my curves window there's a flat line which tells me i'm clipping all the data in the highlights whenever you see a flat line so if you notice that you can just click and add a point and then drag that down so there's a nice curve and it's not a flat line that'll prevent you from blowing out the highlights especially at such an early stage and that looks pretty good i'd say let's continue on with our workflow and i'm going to go back to my adjustments and we'll try one more histogram stretch just because there's some nice nebulosity in there i don't want to lose so i'll bring up my midpoint bring down the black point a little bit it was subtle but i think it did a nice job all right so we've already come a long way but we still have quite a ways to go from here i'm going to go to my selective color tool which is going to be bottom row second from the right selective color is one of the best ways to alter the colors in your image especially for deep space work this is something we talk about a lot in my deep space course over on my website but if you click on selective color you can choose reds yellows greens cyans blues etc we've got a lot of red and a lot of cyan so what i'm going to do is zoom in to where i have a lot of cyan click on the cyan color channel under selective color and then just move these sliders left and right while i'm looking at the photo to see which direction i want to take the image and in my case i want to get more of this blue color rather than cyan so i'll adjust my sliders as needed if i think that looks good i'll zoom out and i really like that color shift before is too greenish now it's a lot more blue i could even double click on the name selective color here for my layer where it says selective color one if i double click on that i can name this selective color maybe cyans because it's always a good idea to name your layers here that way you don't get confused if you come back to this in a couple months probably not a bad idea to rename these as well like curves one that was our color correction you get the idea it just helps you stay organized but now that i've done a basic color adjustment with selective color i'll go back to my adjustments and add another selective color this time though i can target maybe the red color channel so i'll zoom in where i've got a lot of reds and move my slider left and right i want to caution you though because it's very easy to overdo it on the colors and the more color saturation you add it's just going to kill the finer detail especially on an object like the veil nebula so you really got to watch and give a close eye when you're doing this just so you don't kill the data there it's just kind of up to you to have fun with it move the sliders around get a color balance that you like all right so we got our reds i'm going to go back add another selective color and we'll target the blues and the cyans one more time because maybe i want to get a little bit more of that blue color out of there i think that looks good and finally we'll try the blue color channel there really wasn't much to begin with but now we are starting to get some more of the true blues out of it yeah all right so we're starting to get a good amount of detail here once you've gotten the image pretty well developed where you've fixed the color cast you fixed the contrast you've gotten the colors looking pretty good now i'd probably hit control shift alt e or command shift option e that's going to create a new layer in this case layer two that has everything we've done up until now combined into one all right so on layer two i'm gonna go to filter camera raw filter now what i'd like to do is fix the grain a lot of people would say fix the grain at the start of the workflow it's probably not a bad idea but for me i usually wait until it's actually an issue and probably is right now so you can see here i only had an hour of oxygen and an hour of hydrogen alpha that's not a lot of time for narrow band and therefore the image is still pretty grainy so if i would have gotten two three hours and i wasn't shooting only three minute long exposures this probably would have looked a little bit better it's one of the downsides but like we talked about sometimes you don't have all night to photograph so what we're going to do here in camera raw you've got all these different tabs you can work with we're going to open up the detail tab then we can increase the noise reduction as well as the color noise reduction color noise reduction is going to help out a lot but both of these have drawbacks because if i increase the color noise see how splotchy it is in here that will smooth out all those splotches by increasing the color noise reduction slider if you go too far though you're going to kill the actual color in the photo there's always a fine line here even just doing a little bit of color noise though will generally help you out so find the sweet spot and then after you fix the color noise you'll probably want to add a little bit of noise reduction again don't go too far though because you're going to kill all the data and in my case i'm just going to do a little bit of each there we go the best thing to do of course is just capture more data but in the event you don't you can always use these sliders another nice benefit of camera raw is that you have easy sliders here to work with you can increase the exposure you can increase the contrast or decrease the contrast it's just an easy way for the average person to edit their photos you don't have to learn all these fancy filters and everything else you just move some sliders around and they're pretty self-explanatory so that's one reason i like to use camera raw in my case i might bring up the whites even though it is making the stars a lot larger and more bloated but it's up to you to experiment just try different things you can also adjust the temperature and tin as well if you still add a little bit of a color cast this might be an easy way to neutralize it although there are better options so just give some of these a try if you don't like it you can always revert everything back to start and just focus mainly on your noise reduction and then hit ok that's looking pretty good there so there's our before it was really pretty splotchy in there and after it's a little bit better all right we're nearing the end of the workflow i think but there's a few little things i want to do before we go the first thing is just flipping everything around because right now i would say this is actually upside down so if i click on my crop tool over on the left and we see the bounding box here i can just rotate everything upside down and there we go to me i think that looks much more visually interesting another thing you're going to need to watch out for all the time when you're doing deep space work is that over on your corners you're going to have some rough edges because when the software aligns everything the edges don't look good so i always recommend you can see it looks pretty bad on there when you're cropping things just make sure you crop out those ugly corners and if you go to the top left corner on your crop tool when it's opened up you can do original ratio you can do one of the presets i'd recommend putting it to just ratio though when you click on just ratio it might default to like 16x9 or something if it does you can hit the clear button that'll wipe out whatever's in here and now i'm just going to bring in the corners a little bit to get rid of all that junk because i was also cutting it pretty close in terms of my composition i was at 500 millimeter focal length equivalent with my space cat and asi 1600 so it wasn't the best focal length for this object per se usually one either more or less but still turned out well there we go i've cut out some of the junk around the corners and then i'll just hit the enter key or the check mark up top one thing i should mention though if you look very closely you'll see it says delete cropped pixels and that box is unchecked i'd recommend you do the same by default delete crop pixels will be checked which means every time you crop it you're deleting all the data that got cropped out and that means if you ever want to go back and recrop it you won't be able to because all that data is just gone forever so by turning off that check mark for delete crop pixels you will save the data that way if you want to go back and recrop it later you can so i'd recommend you do that there we go that's looking pretty good i'd say i think the last thing we'll do today is a star reduction and there's a lot of different ways you can do a star reduction one of the more interesting that i've seen is something called star net plus plus which is a plug-in you can install on your computer and run your images through it but for some reason my cpu isn't supported i don't think and i can't get the application to work so we're going to do it the old-fashioned way here in uh photoshop this is kind of like the standard technique there's multiple ways of doing this though but i'll just show you the basic one for this we'll go to select and choose color range and you want to make sure when you're doing this you're on a new layer in this case we're on layer two if you didn't have a layer two and you're like on selective color something this process won't work so if you didn't go to camera raw yet now would be the time to hit ctrl shift alt e or command shift option e you just need a layer here that is everything we've combined everything we've done now up until now combined into one that's really critical so again we're on layer two in this case and then we'll go to select color range once you go to select color range the first thing i like to do is down at the very bottom of this pop-up window you're going to see selection preview it's probably going to be on none change that to grayscale that way you can see the full image now that we're on selection preview grayscale at the very top of the window we've got select sampled colors it always defaults to that but we want to just choose the highlights right because we just want to affect the stars once you have a highlight selected you can move these sliders left and right the one thing i'd caution you on here is that if you move them too far to select more stars you're going to pull in the nebula which you don't want really what you're trying to do here is get it so that only the stars are selected not the nebula itself and it's hard to do but trying to get it the best you can something like that should be okay if you got it looking pretty good we'll hit okay and now the screen is going to freak out because you've got marching ants everywhere which means all the stars are selected so i'd recommend you zoom in over the nebula either one in this case i'll probably go over here and if you look closely you're going to see that there's a little bounding box around all really some of the stars we need to expand this so it actually encompasses the entire star to do that we'll go back up to select modify and choose expand once you go to select modify expand it's going to come up with this window here normally i do two pixels but you might want to try three it just depends on your focal length and the star size and everything else so i'm gonna try three today and hit okay there we go it's now encompassing the entire star that's what we want to see finally we need to feather the selection a little bit and there's a lot of ways you can do this but usually the easiest way is to go back up to select modify and feather from here normally the radius is going to be half of what you just did in this case it'd be like 1.5 i don't know if you really have to get that technical with it but like they say usually half the value of your expansion we just did in the previous step so what have you got to do there now we have a nice selection around our stars the only thing left is to apply filter and you'll notice here like it started to select parts of my nebula which i don't want so you could even just get rid of those areas right now although i probably wouldn't recommend doing it that way but you could if you wanted to do that i would select the lasso tool over on the left three down and with the lasso tool selected if you hold down the alt or option key it should change to a little minus sign next to the lasso see that uh anyway with the alder option key held down you can just click and drag a circle around these little areas and remove them so they're not selected this is one way to do this i'd probably just use a layer mask though later on but i wanted to show you something new today so again i'm just going to erase all these areas in the nebula that should not have been selected that way it doesn't get screwed up here in a minute and it will get screwed up so you want to be careful it's especially important with nebula where you have a lot of detail like you see here so that's good enough i just wanted to show you this technique using the alder option key with the lasso tool to draw out the areas you don't want so once you've gotten all that fig fixed up now we need to apply the filter that's going to remove our stars i recommended this stage you hit control or command h to hide the marching ants that we can actually see what's going on everything's still selected you just don't have the crazy flashing after you've hit controller command h zoom back in to your nebula because this is we're going to see the most problems finally we're ready to apply our filter there's a lot of filters you could use but the most common is filter other minimum when you click on filter other minimum it's going to bring up this window here first thing we normally do is change the preserve from squareness to roundness that way it's obviously making stars round and then you adjust the radius here this is going to depend entirely on the lens you're using the focal length the amount of chromatic aberration etc so there's no set number here usually the higher you go the more the stars are going to disappear but you're going to reach a point where if you go too far you're going to get ugly dark splotches everywhere you can kind of see them down over here so again your goal is to find the highest number without it turning really ugly in this case i can push it further than i normally could you know if i'm using a one of my telephoto lenses i can sometimes get up to two if i'm using a wide angle lens and doing milky way i can sometimes get up to 0.8 so that's kind of your general range i would say is like 0.5 to 2 for your pixels in this case i'm going to go higher than normal with two and then we'll hit ok now what i want you to do is just scan over the image especially the nebula and make sure you don't see any ugly dark splotchy areas if things look good and in my case they do remember everything is actually still selected so if you were to hit control or command h you'd bring back all the marching ants so this is a really vital step we have to remember to deselect everything now so go to select deselect or control or command d there we go we've now done our star reduction and if we do a before and after that had a pretty profound impact before the stars were just very distracting and you couldn't even see a lot of the stuff in the middle and after you really start to see the beautiful nebulosity there that was hidden by all those bright stars now would be the time though where i'd probably add layer mask and paint some of these things out but that brings up a problem because i got sloppy for example if i were to add a layer mask on layer 2 and use a black paintbrush to paint out the nebula look what happens it's bringing back not only the stars which is what we'd expect but it's making the image more grainy because layer two is where we did our noise reduction so it's always a good idea to separate your layers so this would be like my noise reduction layer then i'd have a layer on top of that for star reduction in this case it's all combined into one so my layer mask technique isn't going to work that's something you just have to spend a lot of time in photoshop to really understand what's going on and again today i screwed up so it does happen the workaround for that would honestly just be to go on your history tab click above the minimum that will essentially undo filter and then from there i could create a new layer but i also have to like deselect everything so it's kind of a pain this is why you really want to make sure that you're doing this thing in a logical methodical process and again that's something we really focus on in my astrophotography post-processing course and the deep space course each one of those has like 15 to 20 hours worth of content and we really get you comfortable using photoshop that way you can do some amazing things with your astro images either way though today i'm just going to leave it and i'm glad i showed you the lasso tool because if you screw this up as well you know you could just click above minimum and continue to use that lasso tool and say hey you know let me get rid of this area and that looks pretty good so we'll go now down here we have all this area that was getting selected by mistake so i'll just use the alt or option key hold that down drag a circle around there we go i'm deselecting the nebula that way it's not going to destroy the detail in there this is probably the best workaround right now considering i put two things on one layer which as we discussed is not a good idea anyway i'm not going to waste your time this is just a demo today so there we go now that i've removed more of the nebula from the frame i need to apply my minimum filter again so i'm going to filter other minimum it remembers the value there we go and then i'll hit ctrl or command d and we've now done our star reduction and so i'll remember for future reference i'll double click on layer 2 and i'll do noise plus star reduction again ideally you would separate these up into separate layers but today i made a mistake and i don't want to waste your time undoing it all right this is looking pretty darn good i'd say we're almost near our reference image this one's a lot more blue looks a lot more nebulous and the reason that one looks so much more nebulous is because i did one more star reduction let me show you that and then i think we'll call it a day i'm going to hit ctrl shift alt e that's going to create a new layer again that's command shift option if you're on a mac and i'll double click on layer 2 and name this dust and scratches it's always good to name your layers and again separate these in the separate ones but from here let's zoom into our nebula again and we'll go to filter noise dust and scratches when you go to filter noise dust and scratches it's going to pull up another window the way this one works you want to start with your radius on one your threshold on zero then you move the radius one pixel at a time until all of the junk or the noise or the hot pixels whatever they are are smoothed out so in my case two it's not really doing it by three though i think now they're more or less reduced you want to keep this number as low as possible then you increase the threshold to bring back some of the detail but you don't want to bring back these weird little halos around the stars so there's a fine line here i'd probably leave this in this case lower than normal at about 12 to 15. and then we'll hit ok now if we zoom out let's take a look there's our before it's just kind of it's still kind of noisy and after it's much more smoothed out it almost looks like a painting now and that's kind of the effect i was going for i might have lost some of the finer details here and that is one of the downsides of using dust and scratches that all these really fine filaments are going to get destroyed in that process and that's why i don't necessarily recommend doing this but in my case from back here nobody's ever going to know and i like to look compared to that so i made a sacrifice a sacrificed quality for the overall aesthetic of the image knowing that i'm not going to print this out if somebody wants to get it printed out i'm not going to let them because i know if they look at it on their wall up close it's going to look like trash but on instagram or on facebook or just the internet in general it looks pretty good so you can of course choose not to do this that's fine with me but you understand my reasoning now at least and why i did it the only thing left is to add in the curves layer click on the hand tool maybe make the maybe a little bit brighter sky a little bit darker yeah and it looks pretty cool and i think we'll call it a day right there all right so i'm pretty happy with that it could definitely be a little bit better we talked about some of the choices i made and why they might not work that well for you and why you probably don't want to do them but at the very least from back here i think that looks like an awesome photo and i'm happy with it really that's all that matters is that you had fun making the image and you like the final look of it the last thing i want to mention is that we've been staring at this photo for so long we're used to the color balance so i'd recommend before you post this online give your eyes a break go do something else come back look at your tiff file again and you might notice that hey up here it's kind of too red right that's something you might not have noticed if you've just been staring at it so again give the image some time away from it come back and then from here you can do any kind of final color adjustments which i'm not going to get into but it's all i got for you today if you want to learn even more about photo editing and how to take these images you can either subscribe to my youtube channel here or if you want hours and hours of content you can check out my courses over on my website i'm currently in the process of updating the star adventure full course with all new tutorials i've gone back i've redone the sky guider pro course and then after i complete the star adventure course updates i'm going to be updating my deep space course as well these are always going to be free updates so if you buy the course you'll get an email with all the latest content and it's one of the best ways to learn so if you liked the video today and recommend checking those out to learn even more about capturing your own amazing images of the night sky [Music] you

Channel: Peter Zelinka

Views: 10,987

Keywords: astrophotography, dedicated astro camera, photoshop, edit, astro

Id: _7xox1w5htM

Length: 39min 36sec (2376 seconds)

Published: Mon Aug 10 2020