🛑 How to Build a PC 2023 🛑 Step By Step Ryzen & Intel 🛑 How To Build a Gaming PC 2023

hi welcome back to PC Builder I'm Jason So today we're gonna show you step by step how to build a PC in 2023 including ryzen 7000 ryzen 5000 and Intel builds now I know if this is your first PC in a while or if this is your first PC ever it can seem really really scary and of course we've all been there before so I'm here to tell you that not only is this easier than you think it's going to be to build a PC but most importantly you can do this that's right you got this remember if you get value out of the video give it a like because it makes a real difference to the channel and of course subscribe and click that Bell icon that way you get notified when we release cool content with that let's jump into it first off let's do a parts check now if you need help on what parts to pick check out our PC parts Explain series or if you need specific compatible Hardware we have a lot of build lists and guides on the channel like our ryzen 7601 or our Intel i5 13600k one where we go over all the parts that you need to get we'll leave those playlists linked down in the video description so for parts you should have your CPU a compatible motherboard compatible CPU Cooler compatible Ram a storage device preferably an m.2 nvme ssd1 a graphics card a PC case and a power supply let's do a quick tool check as well well the only tool that you absolutely need is a screwdriver and I do really love this flexible one for about 12 on Amazon so I'll leave a link to it down in the video description there are some other tools that I like to have available for cable management I really like these velcro strips a plastic ties are also okay but Mr bear always tries to eat them and the great thing about these velcro strips is that you can actually open them back up and run more cables or take one out later I also use a pair of small wire clippers to trim the ties but scissors are fine here too a little extra thermal paste is always good to have on hand though most coolers they do come with enough pace for up to two applications if you end up needing a clean thermal paste off components it might be nice to have a little bit of isopropyl alcohol on hand but this usually isn't necessary I also really like these relatively cheap magnetic Parts Trace to keep our screws and such all together and did you look pretty cool I don't typically use an anti-static bracelet but you certainly can if you want and if you have an anti-static mod mat that's great as well but again not necessary as we can build on top of the cardboard motherboard box just don't do anything silly like wear socks on top of carpet that will build up that static charge there is no single right way for how to build a PC but there certainly are a lot of wrong ways I'm going to show you what I feel is the most efficient and easiest way for how to build a PC but if you like doing things a little different then that's fine too Step Zero if your motherboard is going to need a bios update to post with your CPU and you need to use the BIOS flashback feature gigabyte calls this Q flash plus then check your motherboard manual on whether you can do that with the CPU installed or not if you need to do bioslashback right now jump to the end of the video where we go through it in detail and if not let's keep going step one take the motherboard out of the box and if it has a separate i o panel like this then take that out too take the motherboard out of the plastic wrapper and put it on top of the box or on your mod mat for both systems we're going to open the socket by using the lever ryzen 5000 systems or am4 socket with the pins on the chip so this one's easy you just put a little side and downward pressure on the lever arm then swing it up gently ryzen 7000 systems are am5 with depends on the motherboard as are modern Intel systems and they essentially work the same we again put a little downward pressure on the lever to unlatch it then push it very gently to the side and swing up we then lift the socket cover up careful not to touch the inside pins or let anything fall in you can remove the plastic socket cover now if you want or it'll just pop off when we suck at the CPU step two we take out our CPU out of the plastic clam shell we find a little triangle on the CPU and we match it up on the motherboard ideally we want to gently place the CPU directly down with as little side to side motion as possible so we don't damage anything hands we want to use almost no Force whatsoever just letting gravity do the work Verizon 5000 am4 systems would just now gently push the lever down and latch it for ryzen 7000 and modern Intel systems we close the latch cover first then we swing the arm down and latch it if you've left the plastic cover on it'll just pop off during this process hold on to that if you ever want to sell the motherboard separately step three is installing the cooler now make sure you're using the correct mounting instructions and kit provided if using an aftermarket cooler note that if you're using an all-in-one liquid cooler you can install the pump now but I generally prefer to get the mounting hardware installed and put the pump on after it's in the case so we can angle the tubes how we like for the ryzen Box cooler we just unscrew the plastic retention bars and remove them then the CPU Cooler which is already had thermal paste pre-applied just goes right over the top and into the screw holes now we just make sure that each screw hole is seated and not screwed in yet once we do that we apply a turn or so on each screw in a cross wise pattern to ensure equal mounting pressure and we just keep going until the screws don't turn anymore using a medium amount of torque we want it snug but we do not want to over tighten it as that can damage the CPU to install a mid-range cooler follow the instruction manual for the cooler and just note that many will include their own back plate especially for Intel motherboards and keep an eye out for compatibility with am5 where the back plate can't be removed see our 7600x build guide for more on that when we apply thermal paste ourselves I typically do it in an X with four small dots of paste in between like this you can also use the spreader or an old credit card and spread the paste yourself just remember using a little too much paste is fine using not enough is not so err on the side of just using slightly too much without going overboard we then follow a similar system of seeding the screws then tightening up in an alternating pattern a little bit at a time to ensure even mounting pressure if the fan looks like it might overhang the ram then we wait to install it until we get the Ram in otherwise just go ahead and install the fan and using the clips remember to use a medium amount of force in a steady application no sudden jerks are overpowering anything then we can tidy up the cable hide it under the fan or even against the vrm and connect it to the motherboard CPU fan slot for an all-in-one liquid cooler just make sure to follow the instructions as to where to plug the cables in to which headers on the motherboard and for a deeper dive including positioning and do's and don'ts for liquid cooling check out our best practice liquid cooling guide step 4 installing the ram now this is the same whether using ddr4 or ddr5 you're going to want to open the ram brackets this is almost always slots 2 and 4 if using a two stick kit and all of them if you're using a four Stick kit always double check your motherboard manual just in case note that some Ram brackets have two clips While others like most assist boards have just one then making sure to line up the slot in the ram stick with the socket we push down and firmly apply medium pressure again until we hear that click noise remember to apply the force in a steady motion and not a sudden movement or you can damage the mother board generally if you feel like you have to force something that means there's another issue going on that needs to be solved step five now we want to install our m.2 storage if you're using a pcie Gen 4 drive and you have an AMD b550 motherboard or you're using an older z590 or b560 Intel motherboard with 11th generation Intel CPU then refer to your motherboard manual as to Which m.2 slot to use for Intel 12th gen ryzen 5000 on an x570 motherboard or ryzen 7000 it just doesn't matter if your motherboard has an m.2 heat spreader remove it by unlatching or unscrewing it note that some boards will come with an m.2 standoff and screw already in the motherboard and someone will come with it in the box and you'll need to install it if your motherboard has a bottom heat spreader it's not that common but newer high-end boards are now coming with them just make sure to remove the plastic film covering on the bottom once that's ready take your m.2 at about a 45 degree angle go ahead and just push the connector end into the slot until you can't see it anymore then swing it down gently and latch or screw it into place do not remove the sticker on the drive as it's actually a heat sprayer itself if you use a motherboard heat shield just peel the film off the heat pad then place it over the drive and screw it into place note that some m.2 drives come with their own heatsink and it will avoid the warranty if you remove it so consider where you want to put them if using motherboards with a large cover for multiple m.2 drives Now we move to prep the case start by taking off both side panels This is the Choose Your Own Adventure part and where I do any fan installs or swap outs if I wanted to if you aren't using a hard drive then I'd also consider removing the hard drive cage if that's possible and there's a PSU shroud if it's a cheaper case with no PSU shroud then I'd leave it in to hide the cables if you're using an all-in-one liquid cooler and feel you can install the radiator in the case and still have enough room to get the motherboard in you can do that otherwise wait until the motherboard's in the important thing is to make sure that the motherboard stand-ups are screwed into the right place on the case most ATX case cases come with them pre-installed for a full-size ATX board so if you're using a Micro ATX or for some reason an ITX board in them follow the instructions to unscrew the ones that need to be moved this is the part where a small pair of pliers can come in handy if you do need to move the standoffs and you're having trouble hand screwing them in you can just put a screw in them and use a screwdriver then use the pliers to hold it in place while you back out the screw if your motherboard came with a separate i o Shield then go ahead and attach it to the case from the inside pushing towards the outside until it's fully in place just make sure to orient it the right way step 7 let's get the motherboard in that's what you're thinking right wrong before you do get your PSU out or just the four plus four pin EPS cable if that's modular run that cable through the top rear hole or multiple cables if your motherboard requires more than one EPS cable and then to lay the case flat now connect those cables to the motherboard like this in large cases this isn't really that necessary but in many cases you will struggle to get them connected afterwards if you don't now pay attention to whether your PC case has the PSU get installed through the side or through the back so you can route the cable properly step eight now that those EPS cables are connected let's get that motherboard in with a case laying flat lift the board gently by the cooler line it up with the i o shield and the holes some cases have a metal pin in the middle standoff rather than a screw and if so just slot it into that hole if not use a screw in the middle front hole and screw it in most but not all of the way now go around and screw the other screws in most of the way but not all the way until they're all in and then tighten them down using a medium amount of torque you might need to push the motherboard slightly one way or the other to line holes up and I usually take care of the most problematic screws first the ones that don't want to line up which are often at the back step 9 tilt the case upright and get the PSU in place now some cases have an external bracket for this that you can then slide the PSU through the back in most cases you just shove the PSU into this side panel then towards the back but first let's unfurl the cables we need keeping the others tied up if it's not a modular PSU for modular psus figure out which cables you need and just get them plugged in now because it's a real bear to do it once it's installed don't forget the pcie cables for the graphics card if we're using cable extensions keep the cables spooled up and just connect the extensions we need to those cables remember cable extensions plug into the cables the PSU came with and those cables then plug into the PSU because while they're standardized on the motherboard side they are not standard on the PSU side so let's not blow anything up most PC cases have a vent for the PSU fan on the bottom so when installing the PSU make sure to face the PSU fan towards the vent usually at the bottom of the case slide it in screw it down four screws and we're good there's a number of different ways to Route the GPU pcie cables oftentimes you'll see them come up from the bottom or from the where the PSU shroud is I often like to go from the side and over the top of the GP you not to obscure the front of the GPU and I typically just make sure that the cables themselves don't touch the GPU when it's fully seated step 10 let's get things connected and routed there's usually fine main cable runs to Route three top to bottom on the left side in the middle and far right and two horizontal ones on the top and on the bottom if you have a fan or RGB Hub it's a good time to figure out where you want to put it now's a good time to Route the 24 pin motherboard power cable if it's a 20 plus 4 style connector that needs to be pushed together make sure you're doing that right as there are often a plastic piece that somewhat holds it together and if done improperly it will not allow it to seat the same goes for other connectors like the pcie six plus two pin and the four plus four EPS motherboard power cable I personally like to Route the PSU cables first as they're the big beefy ones and then stack smaller fan and other cables on top of it don't invest too much time in Cable Management just yet as we want to make sure the system actually posts before we really tie everything down the PC case itself has several Romaine cables that we need to connect the HC audio cable to the bottom rear of the motherboard the front panel USB type A connectors usually to the USB 3 header or if there are additional USB 2.0 ports to one of the 2.0 headers you'll notice these all have one pin closed off so Orient them properly before pushing them gently but firmly into the motherboard if you have a front panel USB type c this is the time to connect it if you have a header on your motherboard fan cables should get plugged into either a Fan Hub or directly into the motherboard fan header you can use a pwm fan splitter cable if needed and each fan connection should support up to 5 fans argb and RGB cables can often be Daisy Chained and then plugged into the motherboard while we're at it we should install any two and a half inch ssds or hard drives which will require a SATA cable that most motherboards come with and a PSU Santa power cable that the PSU should come with make sure to Route the SATA data and power cables as well finally the power button and other pin outs go in consult your motherboard manual but generally the one that really needs to get plugged in is the case power button and the positive terminal usually goes first either on the left or top with a negative one placed to the right or below it gigabyte motherboards come with a plastic pin out holder thing that I wish every motherboard came with you just push the pins into the Right Slots then connect them all at once Step 11 if you've got a graphics card now is the time to install it at the top pcie slot as well as install any other add-in cards like Wi-Fi we just need to unscrew any rear panel guards usually only on nicer cases on the cheaper ones you're gonna have to bend them out then remove the screws and the cover for the rear slots typically beginning at the second slot and going down push down the slot retention button on the main pcie slot to open it up carefully line up the card from the front and press down from the front to back making sure the metal bracket at the back of the card doesn't get stuck on the case you should hear a click of the pcie retention bracket snapping into place and then be able to screw in the card in the back if you're having issues make sure the metal bracket on the back of the GPU isn't getting stuck on the case pcie slots this happens a lot it should want to go in with gravity plus a little firm but steady pressure now let's plug in the pcie power cables we previously routed for the GPU if your GPU is a beefier one then I would also use an anti-sag bracket or stand making sure that it does not impede any of the GPU fans from spinning alright let's see if we post connect a monitor using HDMI DisplayPort can be a little weird on first post so I always recommend HDMI make sure if you're using a GPU that the cable is plugged into the GPU not the motherboard plug in the power supply to the wall turn the PSU button on and press the case power button if you have debug lights or a postcode readout pay close attention to that just in case you have an issue give it a minute or so as sometimes the board will need to power cycle a couple of times if you don't get a post make sure the board doesn't need a bios update for boards with a bios flashback feature you can just let's go ahead and Flash it which we'll go through next if that doesn't work then check all your connections again when you get that post you can either proceed ahead to setup or just power it down and finish up the build to finish up the build tidy up the cable management oh tidy honestly it's up to you I mostly focus on what you can see from the front side I'm personally an advocate of minimal rear panel Cable Management because you're the only person who will likely ever see it and it's very likely this will be the last time you look at it but if you feel the need to hyper manage all the cables then go for it I just focus on making sure it's a clean looking build on the front side and there's nothing too loose in the back before we jump into the BIOS flashback or setup phases remember if you've gotten value out of the video please do take a moment right now and give it a like on the video don't forget to subscribe and click that Bell icon that way you get notified when we release cool content like the after you build setup guide that's coming soon which will be linked right here when it's out there we're going to go through the bio setup Windows installation drivers and more if you do need to flash your bios on your motherboard in order to have your CPU post it's very easy to do but your motherboard must have the bio slash back feature again gigabyte calls this Q flash plus your motherboard will have a button typically on the back I O panel but it can often be on the board itself consult your manual for where it's located if any of my instructions differ from those of the manufacturer for your board then do what they tell you instead you need a USB drive that's between 8 and 32 gigabytes but no larger than that as it needs to be formatted as FAT32 and 32 gigabytes is the max file size for that hence the name using Windows on another computer format the drive is FAT32 in the file manager and you can name the volume whatever you want download the BIOS that you need from the manufacturer's motherboard support page hopefully the newest one sometimes you do need to update the BIOS in steps so just double check you can jump from your bios directly to the newest one extract the BIOS onto the USB drive then right click the BIOS file on the thumb drive in file explorer and rename it based on who makes the motherboard for gigabyte rename it as gigabyte dot bin for ASRock rename it as creative.rom for MSI and rename it as msi.rom Asus has a file utility to rename the BIOS file so just go ahead and run that from the USB drive now let's flash your bios on your motherboard make sure the USB drive is put into the correct port for the BIOS flashback and that the EPS power cables in the upper left hand corner of the motherboard are connected along with the 24-pin motherboard power connector on the right side of the motherboard make sure the PSU is plugged in and it's turned on push and hold the BIOS flashback button until you see an LED start flashing on the motherboard now leave the board alone until the motherboard light is done flashing typically anywhere from one minute up to eight minutes once it's done flashing wait another 20 seconds then you can power off your PSU and build the PC if you haven't done so already once built power on the PC using the PC case button if we have any trouble posting after updating the bios follow your motherboard instructions on how to clear the CMOS typically either pushing a button on the board or using a screwdriver to bridge two CMOS pins on the motherboard now your PC might reboot several times and continue the update of the bios so just leave it alone until it finishes and you're done don't forget to subscribe and click the Bell icon to get notified when we release cool content like the after you build setup guide coming soon which will be linked right here when it's out

Channel: PC Builder

Views: 454,482

Keywords:

Id: qkr07CutHrU

Length: 19min 22sec (1162 seconds)

Published: Sat Feb 04 2023