What's wrong with him? It doesn't work First of all, the CPU temperature is too high. the temperature is high I tried Cinebench once. I use Kraken 280 water cooling. But the temperature hit 100 degrees. What is the CPU? 16000K ??? 13600KF 13600KF That and the memory is 5600, but when I looked at it, it was recognized as 4000. I'm going to check it out, it's a Samsung one. Samsung 5600? / yes Some PCs come here sometimes. But out of all the PCs I occasionally get, this one has the worst breakdown... I think it's because the customer turned it on once. First of all, I checked The board is defective, the graphics card is defective, and the power supply is defective. I am currently testing it and it seems that the CPU is also defective. It cannot fix a defective CPU. If you can get A/S, get A/S, but if A/S is rejected, you have to buy a new one. First of all, I checked and confirmed that the memory was normal. We moved the four memory Olowai memories to our motherboard and tested them, and there was no problem. There is no problem with the memory, but the power, board, graphics card, and CPU are all defective. That is what has been confirmed so far. Another customer is coming in right now while I'm testing. I'll take a closer look at it in the afternoon and call you back. It's that bad, and the CPU is plugged into our motherboard and running, so I think the CPU is also defective. The temperature is quite high at 13600K and 13600K right now. I don't remember what the temperature was when I water-cooled the 13600K. Among the recent videos, should I air-cool the 13600K or should I use water-cooling? At that time, the temperature was 95 degrees or 101 degrees. In the case of 13600K (F), it is said that air cooling is used, so they use air cooling, but is this correct? It's 5600, but I wonder if it's correct to change it back to 4000, because the recognition varies from board to board. Also, it may be more because this is a B board, and the BIOS has been updated to the latest version. I don't know It seems to be a somewhat recent version, and the customer has used 4800. (Try manual RAM oversetting) Depending on the board, some set it to 4800, others set it to 5200, but the one set to 4000 doesn't seem like that at all. I'll reset the bios and set it to the default value. After resetting the defaults, what was the model? I will see if there are any more updates to the B760M PLUS WIFI BIOS. First, I will check the memory. There is another BIOS update version. I tried updating, but there is no solution for the memory recognition part other than updating the BIOS. The only compatibility patch that can support the motherboard to recognize the memory is a bios update. In that case, you have no choice but to change it manually. After updating the bios, it recognized it as 4000, turned it off again, rebooted, and when you went back in, it changed to 4800 or something like that. It recognized it as 4000 only once, and this is the last version. yo. this It's the last one, so try updating it first and be glad if it's adjusted in the BIOS. If it doesn't work, just use 4000 or manually overclock it, but there are a lot of problems right now. It's compatible with the Samsung one, so it's your first time assembling it, isn't it? You've assembled it before too. ? No, no, I brought this assembled. Ah, I bought the finished product. Then why don’t you go to the company there and get it inspected? I bought it with carrots and used them. Ah~~~~ Used carrots can be traded at this level. / Yes. It looks like a new product, but it was listed cheaply. okay Strange, why did they sell this? There is an average price, right? There is a used market price. I bought it for 200 because it was listed cheaply. I don't know the used market price. I didn't trade it for used and got it for 200, but now I've looked at various things on the internet and tested it, and now the memory and CPU temperatures are set too high, so I'm wondering if there's a problem, so I recommend 360 water cooling if possible. It spins when the temperature rises. The fan is quiet other than that sound, so it's okay, but from what I've seen, there doesn't seem to be any major problems with the system. Ugh~~~! 5600 Wait a minute, I told you earlier. Wait a minute. Memory. The customer just said wow. Wow, the reason I did it was I told you at the beginning. When I first log in after updating the bios, it goes up to 4000. Then, if you save it again and go back in, it will be recognized as 5200 or 5600. Even now, after updating to the latest version of the virus, the number was 4000, but I saved it in the bios and went back in, and now it goes up to 5600. It's because of the bios. It's normal for this to happen, so it's resolved, right? But I'm actually anxious 5600 Actually, there are a lot of issues and I am a bit anxious. I was just trying to see what was installed. I mentioned this several times in the video, but if you install Kraken water cooling, you need to install an app that can control Kraken. It's called Kraken CAM. It's because I didn't install it. From what I have seen, I will try to adjust the temperature that the customer mentioned in this situation. Not everything I say is correct But since you have experience / I will see first. Currently, the maximum temperature at 13600KF idling is 45 degrees, currently it is about 40 degrees. As the customer said, I'll see if it captures 100 degrees when I run CineBench. As soon as I start it, it immediately captures 100 degrees... That's a bit like that. 10600KF Why does it shoot at 100 degrees? You said I need to install the Kraken app. I'll install the app and minimize it in the settings. And this is important. For cooling, I am like that. I set it to performance and the pump can be set to performance or fixed, and the fixed setting is 2900rpm. Performance is usually 2400rpm I'll put it in performance I installed Kraken I'll run it in this state. It's different from before, right? / Yes, it was at 100 degrees as soon as we started, but now we are defending at around 90 degrees. If you want to lower the temperature a little further, set the pump performance to fixed and now it is 2900rpm. This is a lot of thermal paste. That blue thing is a private bracket. Some say that it evens out the pressure on the CPU, and that it controls the temperature better. The 12th generation said something like that. You don't have to do this again in the 13th generation. There are also people who say don't do it. That's personal preference Booting is also faster. It may take a little at first, but it gets faster from then on. Temperature isn't a problem in my opinion, but some people say it's a problem depending on the model. Well... the yield varies depending on the CPU, so if you come across a CPU with a good yield, the temperature and performance are much better, but if you come across a product with a slightly lower yield, the temperature may be a little higher than the others, and things like this can happen. Some people only look for CPUs with good yields. When fixed, the RPM goes up to 2900. The comment said, "I should sell it used. Is there someone who did this?" However, there are not many people who use it with 100% load like Cinebench. And that itself caused the temperature to rise to this level. Intel clocks well too. The current maximum clock is 5,000, but it is currently running at 5,000. Just like the P core and E core, it would have been a little better if 3 rows of liquid cooling had been used. But since this is a 2-row system, you have to think about it before using it, and you must install Kraken CAM. If you don't install it, you can't do it. There are a lot of fun things to do if you install it. If you go into NZXT CAM and look at it, there is a header (water block) in the middle. Here, the CPU temperature appears, the graphics card temperature appears, and you can change things like that. You said that the noise part is quiet, but the basic base is quiet, but if you apply a load like this, it becomes noisy. It's not quiet I have to go back to cool down the heat. There is nothing wrong with the CPU itself. I updated the bios and changed the memory from 4000 to 5600 and that's it. I can't even do a memory test in a short amount of time. But basically, to test that, it usually takes about an hour and a half to two hours. If you don't want to invest that much time now, I think you can just try it out and bring it back later if there are any problems. no problem CPUs these days have their temperatures set high. If it doesn't work, could you tell me the symptoms? Even when other graphics cards are turned on When I turn on the computer, it boots up, but there are many cases where the monitor does not receive a signal. Then, if you turn it off and on again a lot, the monitor may turn on at the same time if you turn it off and on 2 or 3 times. What if I turn it off and on a lot?? Normally, when I booted up, only the main body booted and a KakaoTalk notification came saying that everything was turned on. The screen doesn't come up, but Windows runs. If you turn the console and the monitor on and off at the same time, no. If you just turn the console on and off, they sometimes turn on at the same time. Screen? Yes, once it turns on, it continues again. Yes / I was writing it like that. If it won't turn on once, it won't turn on again. Does that mean the monitor screen won't come on? So, it was a brief holiday at that time. So, someone nearby came by and said, “What do I say about the DP cable that was in the graphics card?” Built-in graphics Yes, when I connected it to the built-in graphics, it booted. I knew there had been a problem with the graphics card for a long time, so I thought it was a graphics card problem and bought a new one. But when I tried to reconnect, it didn't work. Still, it doesn't work, so whatever the conclusion is, The screen doesn't come up, but Windows runs and KakaoTalk notifications come and go. If I turn the PC off and on several times, it sometimes comes up. So, I received after-sales service from another nearby repair shop and they said it seemed to be a graphics card problem. I bought a graphics card and plugged it in, but it doesn’t work. Okay, let’s take a look. Even now, I can't do it with a graphics card. Is this P3 or P1? I'm not sure about the case I just received the whole package from a friend, so take your time and consult first. A phone call in the morning that came around 12 o'clock? I have a small number of calls, so I think you might be very busy. / Just give me a moment. He's using a hose I'm using a riser cable right now. Speaking of riser cables, this is a riser cable that is pulled out and plugged into a separate slot on the motherboard. / Yes, this riser cable is also quite bulky. That seems to be the problem as well. If this is the problem, of course the screen won't come up. But there's no room to put it in there, so you have to take it out anyway. You have to disassemble it to plug it into the board. The original case itself is now, what to say, an off case, because it was originally made that way. I just use it at home. Oh, is this for personal use at home? Yes, it will come up So the problem was a defective riser cable? / Yes Riser cable defective. If you are not going to use the riser cable, you should just plug in the graphics card like this. Can I plug it in right here to make room? What if I plug it in? It's tight. Since I'm currently using water cooling like this, what do you think would be better? The customer has to choose that. Since I'm in a hurry right now, I'm just going to stick it on the board like this. But even if you plug it in like this, you can actually attach it if you have a basic bracket, but if you don't, you have to use it like this now, right? It's a bit shaky and dangerous. In that case, you should use a riser. I bought a riser cable and have it now? we are not there now I don't have it because I can't find it. The riser cable also has PCI 3.0 and 4.0, so 2070? Can you just put it here and install it so I can hang it now? It can't be fixed. Is there any other way? Ah, it crashed. Is it because I touched it? Let’s see how long the graphics card is. I think it will be like that in 2070, but... it's a bit long. It's a little long Oh, but it stops moment by moment. But there are some things that freeze. The computer freezes. There are so many causes for this that I can't say anything. First of all, the symptoms mentioned by the customer are that the screen does not open, and this is due to a cable defect due to the riser cable. The article probably didn't leave this out It looks like you didn't know how to remove it, so you couldn't plug it in right away. If you had just plugged it in and checked if it worked, you probably wouldn't have bought the graphics card. The article said the graphics card was defective so I bought it at a discount. That's right, I'll throw him away, and if that doesn't work, I'll have to hit him right on the board. Oh, this one is sweet here too. It also works with this water cooling radiator. Then, you just have to buy it and install it like the original, right? Yes, I have no choice but to do that. It reaches here too It doesn't go in because it touches the water cooling. It doesn't work. About 3cm? It's about 2~3cm short. This thing... I can't move it like this, but I have to buy it, right? This cable... I think I need to buy a riser cable and use it.
(I checked and found that the supported Like cable costs over 100,000 won..ㅠ) What does he have to buy? So what if you want to get bitten? Riser cables. You said there were two. Ah, there are versions 3.0 and 4.0.
(3.0 that supports this is out of stock) This is the bracket... will it fit if I buy a regular one? This is a case... If you look up the case and look at this case, the details will come out, right? I think I need to find the right one and buy it. Because it's the same, but what can be attached to this bracket is slightly different? This is a little different, so I think you should take a look at that, right? Now they come out in a variety of ways. Now the DRAM light is on. This orange light is the DRAM. When I say DRAM, it means it's a memory-related problem. This is what the board tells me. It says there's a RAM-related problem. I will remove memories 1 and 3. Let’s move on now, right? The white ball comes on, there is a memory-related problem, and the DRAM light comes on frequently. Then, there is a problem that occurs when the full bank is turned on. When all four are installed, there is no end to testing or checking. It takes a long time I don't know right now if it's because the bank is full or if it's temporary or something like that. Since memory contact failure usually occurs easily, it may be temporary, or it may be possible to do this and turn it on again. I can't really answer this question about the memory part. What I can tell you is that the reason why the DRAM light comes on is because of a memory-related problem. When using it in standby, sometimes that orange light comes on and the DRAM light comes on, so it is a problem. Since you don't know this, you probably didn't catch it. But now, because I just told you about it, when you use it and the orange light comes on, you have to look at where the light comes from and make sure it comes on there. When I zoom in like this, it doesn't work again. Now it doesn't work again because of memory. Conversely, should I now take out numbers 2 and 4? I left out numbers 1 and 3 earlier, right? Now I'm taking out numbers 2 and 4 and the light keeps coming on. In this way, we have no choice but to test and infer one by one. Now, there is a possibility that there is a problem with memory 1 and 3, or a problem with slots 1 and 3. But in cases like this, it’s difficult to pinpoint exactly how. That's because both the board and the board have been discontinued, so board after-sales service has ended. It's quite old.. Yes, it's over. First, move memory number 13 to number 24. Please stay next to me for a little while. Yes, it's okay. It's okay to take your time. There is a high possibility that there is a problem with the memory. Yes? I'll try turning it off again. I'll take out the memory again... and put it back in. If this doesn't work like before, you have to remove these two memories. In this case, there is no answer It's coming up now. Um... I don't know whether the person who purchased the memory purchased it as a set of 4 quads or two sets of 2. But I don't recommend using a set because you can use the characteristics. It may not work out well, and from what I saw, if you leaked it, you said you got it from somewhere else, right? is not it? Right? If I make an analogy like this, there are traces that you have had trouble with memory in the past. because This is a gaming memory, so the material itself is made of steel as you can see here. You mean sharp, right? Look at the hose, isn't it dug up a lot? I took it off and put it back on a lot, so you can guess it. It's not nearly severed like this, but it's a lot of damage. This means that the memory was continuously removed and inserted and the memory was brushed against it. So, there is this much scar. What does that mean? It means that it was not recognized well. So, if it still doesn't work, you can just unplug it and plug it back in. It's all like that Otherwise I wouldn't be able to get hurt like this. I've already plugged in all 4, so I'll try turning them on again. It's the same, right? There is another way to solve it I'm going to try it, go to the BIOS website, check if there's a newer version, and try updating the BIOS. This may be resolved by updating the motherboard bios. So this continues. There is no end. As you said earlier, you can't say that you can do this within a short period of time. It takes a long time. I don't know if you will leave it to us or not, but if you do, we will download the BIOS, update it, cross-test it again, and so on. There are quite a few cases where memory problems that work or not work can be resolved after updating the ROM BIOS. There is a problem with this and we need to replace it. Since it cannot be installed, we have to buy it. If we want to plug it in directly, we cannot plug it in at all because the gap between it and the graphics card is not right. If we want to install the graphics card, we have to replace it and now the motherboard. It works fine if I plug it directly into Even now, if you plug it in, it comes up just fine, so let's move on now. Windows will come up. Basically, you have to plug it in 2 or 4 times. This is my first time seeing the MI8 case. I have only heard about it, and there is a case called MI8. It's good value for money. Yes, I'll give it a try. So are you saying these fans are all LED fans? Yes, yes, all four are LED fans. But the LED doesn't come on? I spoke to your store, and at first we had a conversation by sending pictures and things like that. yes They talked about not being able to find the cause, huh? Are you coming in? uh? Are you coming in again now? Yes, they say this came in and it didn’t come in. Let’s take a look at this. Then I guess it's a bad contact, because it comes in shaking as it moves. The reason why this happened was that the computer did not turn on at first. It's not turned on? yes Then I left it on for about 3 minutes. At that time, it came up like this. The computer was ok. Then, there was a symptom that the fan kept not running. What if it was a fan? There was a symptom that the light did not come on. Oh, LED lights? Right now, I would have probably connected the 5V RGB here. That's right, I connected it here. It's coming in just fine... Shall we take a look behind the scenes? This is what the MI8 case looks like Have I seen it? No, I don't think I saw it... Oh, I need to unscrew this thing. When I first ordered it, it wasn't provided without a fan. This fan? Oh, there was no fan? So, I told you, did you send it by courier? Yes, did your customer install it? Yeah, I'm a little embarrassed. I bought it with the computer assembled, so it's okay if I make a mistake. Does it come without a fan? Is there a model for this case with or without a fan? It's a model that doesn't exist, but this fan is giving it as a service for an event. Ah... I forgot about the event. It was plugged in well, but the first time it didn't light up, I tried plugging it in one by one. Yes, I removed all of these, did one of that, one of this, and one of this, but even then the light didn't come on, but now the light is coming on again. Well.. it doesn't work.. what should I do? So, I looked up the blog and found out that I need to install the hub originally. It was written again as if it could be done. No, not that. There is no need to add herbs I'm going to use an individual switch, remove it, and use a separate external individual switch to change it by pressing it like this. Then, I don't know, but I'm going to connect it to the 5V RGB of the motherboard anyway, so there's no need for a controller. This and.. what is it.. it seems like the color of the fan can also be changed. Yes, yes, Gigabyte, called Gigabyte A620M, now uses an application called GCC. The computer doesn't turn on, so there are a lot of reasons for that, but when I looked at it, it was connected well, so I think the RGB wouldn't be output from the motherboard. So I tried installing this app or something, but there was no response. When I saw it, I thought it was a temporary error. As I've said many times in the video, you can have a hard time with RGB linking programs. There are times when they don't eat well. There are times when errors occur, and I'm trying to install GCC to see if that's the case. I'll put it on and take a look. The case is neat. There aren't many videos on YouTube. Have you finished setting up the drivers? Did you take it from there? I came here after doing everything. Oh, that’s why you came? I think I need to install the motherboard RGB tool. Should I install two? Let's change it now. We're changing RGB fusion here. From RGFusion here I don't know either. Let's see. It's fixed, so the white case is the best. It's white and it's 5V RGB. And fix it and make it white You do something so simple... like this. I did not install this program I downloaded and downloaded Gigabyte RGB using Google. Right now, I do everything here using Gigabyte Control Center, an app called GCC. I also do driver settings here and RGB integration here. You can do it like this The white comes out beautifully and brightly. Personally, I'm curious. Is there a way to change the color of the graphics card light? I think the graphics card will provide an RGB interlocking cable? That 5V? Yes, you need to connect that to 5V. There's another one similar to this. In the box, yes, I need to connect it. Didn't you bring it? No, it's in the car, but if I bring it with me and plug it in, won't there be nowhere to plug it in underneath? No, no. If you look here, first of all, insert the terminal here. Yes, right? Just plug it in here and there is a 5V header. We already connected the 4 system fans like this. I'm left last Here, take off the cover I'm inserting it here. So can I bring it now? Bring it All galaxies are like this. You have to connect this way. High-end graphics cards have a Y shape. One is for the graphics card, and the other is for the support brackets that are provided there. There are also pretty ones. That's the way it is. He sleeps straight It looks much prettier if you pull it out straight like this. It's less messy and neater. Well, one more thing I would like to ask is that the fan position is a little more in front and the middle is like this. Would it be okay if it were like this? It doesn't matter. I think it happened because of interference. But I don't think it's necessary to upload this? When we talk about memory interference, it literally refers to when the memory is fanned and interference occurs, but since this is the size of a spinach, there is no interference. You can take it down. In fact, the height isn't right, so I guess it's up to the company to see if there's a reason to do it this way. Well, the assembler will do it this way. Probably when I saw it, there was this heat sink heat pipe. I think the assembler did it this way to match the height here. Now, everyone who assembles it has a different style. In my case, I match the height of this heat sink to the height of this fan. This person, this person, this person, this person, I think he was probably trying to match the height of the heat pipe. Each assembler is slightly different. Since the style is different, I don't usually show it off like this. I'll give it a try This is now the default setting LED on the motherboard BIOS, and since the user has adjusted it arbitrarily due to the application, the color changes as Windows runs and the application automatically runs. This is a normal change, right? This is different from what I did when I first booted and turned it off. Why are you like this? You can say that, but the normal color is automatically changed to white. Because earlier we input 5V RGB as white. And since I connected it to that, of course it's white. Don't worry too much, this RGB app is prone to errors. All right I know white is the prettiest. This is the prettiest You can write him like this Do you have any other questions? It turns off after use? Yes, but now it doesn't turn on properly. Is it not turning on? It used to turn on, but now it doesn't turn on. If it doesn't turn on, does that mean it's not turning on? Or is it that the screen doesn't come up? I'll give it a try I guess the switch is a little bad? Does it turn on when you press it several times? ah. The switch is a bit bad. But doing it like this? Yes, it suddenly turns on and turns off, but when I connect a gaming mechanical keyboard, it says it turns off when I connect the USB. I called an installation engineer, is he an after-sales service engineer? I called the AS manager and he tried everything one by one. Nothing else turns off, but when I put on a mechanical keyboard, it turns off. I said the keyboard was the problem, so I bought a new keyboard, but that also turned off. So, if I plug in something other than the keyboard, does it turn off? The mouse doesn't turn off How many hours? How many hours? So does the mechanical keyboard turn off when plugged in? I tried 2 and they turned off. First, let's see if it turns off or not. Removed it is now a keyboard. Where should I plug this? Here.. here and here and anywhere.. it doesn’t seem to work here at all.. it won’t work here. Maybe.. I’ll put it in the back. Wait.. Oh, it's not recognized? It doesn't work here at all... Wait a minute... Aside from turning it off, it doesn't work. The USB 3.0 terminal doesn't seem to be plugged in properly, but it feels like it's plugged in at an angle. Did the technician open the inside and try to pull it out? Those are the two USB 3.0 ports in front of here. Even if you just look at this, it’s slanted. It's falling out. It has to be plugged in first. That way, when I test it, I have to plug it in and test something. Well... I plugged it in. Would you like to try plugging in the USB? What happens? Oh, I'm leaving. If the USB is shorted, it won't turn on. You have to completely unplug and plug in the power. Yes, that's right I have to turn it off and on. I just have to wait a moment and then turn it on. Try turning it on again If you don't do this and wait and turn it on, I'll turn it on a little later. Let's plug it in with our cable, you know what I mean? This turns on, but turns off right away. If I turn it on the next day, it works again. It shuts off as soon as it starts, as if it had just been shut down. If you do it as soon as the light comes on, it may be a power failure. When I watched the YouTube video at that time, I saw that he had similar symptoms to me. What was it? It was a power failure. Ah... I think it's a power failure? I called after seeing that. It's not coming in right now. It's not coming in. If you turn it on five times, it should come in all five times. / Ah... it's not coming in. I think it's the power supply. Could it be that power has something to do with USB? First of all, anything can be related. Let me try changing the power. The power has now been changed back to ours. Try turning it on. It will turn on. Now I'm going to plug in the USB. Now then, let’s plug it in. Oh, it won’t turn off. It eats the keyboard too Start button Go up, go down, eat well, right? The power is bad, so sometimes customers talk about it. The power turns on, but why is the power bad? If you say it like that, it's really hard to answer. Just because power is applied does not mean the power is normal. If you study about power, it's very complicated, but it's actually really complicated, right? Voltage has to come out well, 3.3V, 12V, and 5V have to come out well, and it has to give a good signal, and it has to hold up well until the maximum pitch is reached. If that doesn't work, it goes out. It turns off when I'm playing a game. It reboots. There's a keyboard that comes with this when you first buy it. When I just use it, it just works, but the light comes on, and the headset also lights up. That goes off too It has to be 5V or something like that and the USB has 5 volts. The important thing is that if you input it 10 times on a simple tester, it should turn on 10 times. Is it malfunctioning or normal? But if you turn it on 10 times and it turns on 2 or 3 times and doesn't turn on the remaining 7 times, then it's a power failure. It needs to be turned on first. Should we try plugging this in even after a power failure? You said it earlier. Where is it behind? Even if I plugged it in anywhere, it turned off. Oh yeah The power is an Antec one. It's an Antec one. It's a 750W power unit and it's semi-modular. It has the basic cables in it and you can plug in a graphics card or something else in a modular way. Now I've finished replacing the power. I'm going to turn it on now. I've roughly finished the selection process. The original Galaxy graphics card makes a noise when you turn it on for the first time. And it's quiet. The graphics card was RTX 2060 Super to be exact. Yes, it works, right? yes it works Another thing you're curious about is that we can provide after-sales service for the power supply, but it will take a few days. Can something like this be sold used? It can be sold second-hand. It depends on how much you pay, but it is possible to sell it. Check out customer power prices at places like Carrot or Joongongnara. You can look at the market price and sell accordingly. I'll finish it. Then, please write down the address later. Yes, I understand. I see it's from Juyeon Tech, right? Is it a finished product? Or is it just the case? That can't be right, right? I think I bought it from LG LG? Where is LG? Home Shopping? I think I went to Hi-Mart and bought it. Oh, Hi-Mart? When I checked the computer, it said Juyeon Tech. Yes, first of all, what is your main symptom? What's going on? Just no signal on monitor Ah, there is no signal on the screen.. Does the monitor suddenly stay the same? It's been like that since I moved. I use it where I work. I took it out and moved it somewhere else and tried to use it as a personal work computer, but when I tried to move it, it didn't work. They say I removed the memory, but I installed the memory incorrectly. It's floating in the air I didn't plug it in properly. And when you first connected the monitor to the computer, where did you plug the terminal? You can't plug it here first and then plug it there. I knew it was wrong, so I plugged it in at the bottom, and that was after the memory was removed. It felt like it had the Juyeon Tech name brand, but now it has changed to a fully assembled PC. I bought it 2 years ago, so the gap between the memory motherboard and the top pen on top is too narrow. Yes, it's difficult to move the memory to the side. I thought it wasn't moving now. At first, no, it's because the space is too small. They say it's causing interference. Why did you choose a case like this? Still, the memory is 16GB from SK Heines. You don't know when to assemble it. It's difficult because you don't know after assembling it and trying to attach and detach it later. Shall we try turning it on? First of all, I removed the memory, so I think this might be a problem. What I see now is that the memory contact is bad. Is it possible to purchase additional RAM here? Additional memory is available, but we only have Samsung memory. We don't like mixing memory for price, so if we can, it's better to plug in Samsung if it has 16GB, but I'm not sure if it's okay to plug in Samsung because it's currently plugged in to SK Highness. You brought a monitor, so you don't have to connect it, right? If you want, I'll do it. The first customer moved this PC and plugged it into something else, and when he moved it and connected it, he clearly plugged the monitor on top. That screen doesn't come up At first, I plugged it in wrong, but after plugging it all in, the screen didn't work. I tried to figure out why it didn't work and I was told to try plugging in the graphics card memory. I took it out and plugged it in, but I took it out and plugged it in incorrectly, right? Yes, so now it doesn't work if you plug it in from the bottom or it doesn't work if you plug it in from the top. it wasn't a big problem And it looks good when I put it on the desk. I couldn't see anything when I looked at it from the floor, but space is important. It's common for workspaces to be connected incorrectly to monitors. So, in Juyeon's case, there's a blue one, right? Yes, this is the RGB DVI terminal. It's blocked off with a cover so you don't connect it here. But what's unfortunate is that if the HDMI had been blocked, the customer wouldn't have plugged it in, but it's just a rubber thing now, right? I'm glad you didn't plug it in. Unless it's a broken part, the specs aren't bad. It's an I7, 10700, 16GB of memory, and it's currently going back and forth between 78 and 79 degrees at idle, up to 79 degrees, so it protects at around 80 degrees. From what I've seen, if it protects up to 85 degrees, you'll be fine. Fortunately, it's fine. I installed one 16GB memory and it was recognized well. It's because the RAM is mixed. I'm testing 16GB of Hynix and 16GB of Samsung TM5 memory. I'll do a little test with this and then finish. Yes, unless it's a special case, we'll ship it. Please sit down for a moment. 20 minutes? Still, 20 minutes is short, but in fact, only test for about 20 minutes.
