曼谷米其林蚵仔煎名店「蒙哥蠔烙」為何不容錯過？酥脆、軟嫩雙重連續技踢館台式經典！｜科普長知識｜GQ Taiwan

welcome to a beautiful morning in bangkok's Chinatown we are going to be getting an omelette okay welcome to one of my favorite things to eat in all of Bangkok the oyster omelette at n ho this oyster omelet place has been in operation for decades and they're one of the most well awarded oyster places in all of the world for good reason because everything they make is about textural and flavorful Delight they do here a crispy and a soft Chef here currently is making one of the soft versions cooking oysters directly inside of a very soft scramble of an egg just a little bit of aromatics a little bit of oyster sauce to give it that oyster flavor but it's a very very soft scramble that's all about emulsification and technique the starch that gets mix into the egg actually protects the texture of the egg a little bit so even if he's cooking it a little bit longer the final texture is still going to be soft as you plop plop between the two versions this is most similar to what we might call an omelette omelette cuz it's eggs with filling cooked all together into a stir fry so good so excited he's going to cook another one he's mixing starch with the egg a generous amount of oil constantly moving it to get even heat distribution and pushing it all around so that the starch is emulsified into the egg is he making a crispy one I think he's making a crispy one okay so the fun thing and one of the most interesting things about this Thai egg technique is the full caramelization of that egg normally a lot of people like to get their eggs nice and soft it's nice and tender when it's soft but you don't get all the Umami flavors that that egg has to offer so it's a generous amount of oil that's gradually added to the pan you might think to yourself that's a lot of oil in there if you cook that egg properly and you cook it for long enough you get two things number one you get beautiful caramelization you get that Savor and second of all that oil gets pushed out you end up with not a greasy soggy product just something that's wonderfully and deeply flavorful if it's cooked to that brown caramelized color it's going to become light and crispy instead of greasy and Soggy see that brown crispy nugget so beautiful once it comes off the heat as it begins to cool a little bit it's going to develop a crispy alterior some of these nets are bigger some of them are smaller these are going to be nice ooey gooey in the middle a little bit chewy the smaller bits just going to be little bits of crispiness perfectly inconsistent what I'm expecting is nice plump fresh oysters that gets cooked with a little bit of oyster sauce and scallions as I believe he's doing right now aromatics are activated a little bit of that oyster sauce sauce just double down in that oyer flavor the starch goes over the top he's going to mix everything together with a little bit of [Music] water as that starch gelatinizes and as those aromatics activate everything gets pushed around the oysters only have to be cooked ever so lightly because they are so so so fresh and he's just pushing it all around so that the sauce gets emulsified nice and thick oh gosh those are the best SS I ever happened to me there you have it first crispy egg layer on the bottom then oyster sauce over the top that approach not many other people do here in Bangkok all right time to te and we're going to get both the soft version and the crispy version n has been opened for at least 30 years they are one of the most well awarded oyster omelets when I was a kid growing up in Hong Kong we'd come down to Bangkok for vacation and we would eat here Chef here has been cooking oyster omelets for longer than you or I ever will sure you can make a version of this dish at home but it's not going to have the consistency and it certainly is not going to have that skill that he has the oyster alet is not a complicated dish which means that every single component matters the main ingredients in the Oyster omelet are the eggs a little bit of scallion for aromatics and balance the oyster itself oyster sauce is the main seasoning component the soft orsin is more traditionally in chaan back in China so the idea here is they're cooking a very soft scrambled egg that is mounted with a little bit of starch that starch combined with the egg mimics the slippery texture of the oyster that dish is an expression of the purest freshest flavor of the oyster as well as that delicious gooey gooey texture if the Soft oyster omelet is about textural compliments then the crispy version is about textural contrast you have oyster sauce mounted oysters over the top and on the bottom nice nice crispy eggs that are the purest expression of the savoriness that the egg has to offer outside of Thailand I've never seen chefs cook with two spatulas two walk spatulas at that the two spatulas are sort of in a dance he's flipping with one and pushing against with the other pressing them into the oil so that he gets maximum contact between oil and egg it's a lot of movement and it's a lot of paying attention he's not going to step away he's not going to think about anything else if you eating soft tender European eggs I feel like we're really missing out on what that what the egg is supposed to do it's a perfect compliment to the oyster because it's different it's two types of savoriness two types of texture oh okay these oysters are huge like look at them the only sauce in here is the liquid that's coming off of the oyers plus a little bit of oyster sauce that shine means that that oil is emulsified into the sauce this delicious thick sauce is going to mimic the texture of the oyster of the inside and the outside there's no seasoning on this other than oyster sauce I know a lot of chefs will tell you that the raw oyster is one of the perfect things out of the sea but a slightly cooked oyster is also just a perfect marriage between what Nature has to give us and what the chef can do look at the size and the shape of those nuggets and look at how it compares to the oyster it's a yin and yang right it's complimentary I'm going to taste it alone first crispy with a s that's what I'm talking about not only is it crispy on the outside because he's moving it around too much it's craggly to the inside too you get so much surface area right and then you'll find a piece that's slightly bigger have a little bit more goo to them see have coal a little bit of that flour that starch if you eat this alone and you really taste it then you'll find the EG P Anese word for this is Ching some people translate it as Bland but really it's about cleanliness it's about Clarity and it's about subtlety if the ingredients you start off with are already so beautiful and perfect why would you cover it up with all this other stuff in a sense perhaps there's something to be said about this type of tha Chinese cooking is similar to what I look for as a cantones chef this is what the purists believe to be a proper omelette even even in cha now back in China and in Taiwan there are people who argue that the crispy omelet is a little bit sacrilege if you're a purist you're looking for the ingredients to support the beauty of the oyster itself you see this clear starch it's clear because the starch has heated up and cooled down so it's gelatinized what that means is the starch is holding on to the moisture and it's swelling up TI at yum I came into this thinking that the crispy one was the only way to go but there is something very special about the soft doet very very special this is so perfect and the way you're supposed to eat it properly honestly is with the with the sweet and sour sauce every place that makes it oy your omelette whether it's chaan or Taiwan or Thailand we'll serve it with some sort of red sauce like this every recipe that I've been taught is totally different there's chili in there sourness brings it gives it a little bit of freshness the way we might squeeze lemon onto Seafood the chili in it gives you another hint of tingling in your mouth this is everything comes together and the way to eat this with a little bit of white pepper the way that my dad would like it's just a Touch of this to get rid of any hints of gaminess an additional aromatic component T people do love white pepper as a primary seasoning very much like the Chow ancestors I love following the regional differences from Southern China to Taiwan to Thailand what I've learned is that oyster omelets are really about what the chef wants it's always an expression of their style this so happens to be maybe my favorite version in Bangkok the two versions that he offers are so different from each other in philosophy it's a very very special place they been in business for a very long time if you go to Thailand everyone else is also going to tell you to come here but this is I I wouldn't miss this

Channel: GQ Taiwan

Views: 21,537

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Id: UxFc9KeXWXs

Length: 9min 50sec (590 seconds)

Published: Tue Oct 31 2023