(ominous orchestral music) (melancholic orchestral music) - [Benito] This Italy is at
the front with heart and soul. If need be, the first human
wall will be followed tomorrow by a second, then by a third. Our goal is victory
irrespective of the cost. (dramatic orchestral music) - [Anton] Everyday,
you're ready to attack. Everyday, you await
the enemy's storm. Everyday, death screams at
you from hundreds of troops. You hear the cries of the
wounded and see the dead. You, yourself, are barely alive. (melancholic music) - [Commander] The men
are often forced to lie next to the dead and
wounded for several days. The heavy shells tear
open the shallow graves, which are often located
right behind our lines, and hurl rotting corpses
onto emplacements overrun with rats. (melancholic music)
(distant firing) - [Karl] The end, it
seems, is yet to come. The monastery on the Monte Santo has been reduced to rubble. The men who
sacrificed themselves have suffered the same fate as hundreds and
hundred before them. They're all dead. (melancholic music) - [Narrator] On May 23,
1915, less than a year after the outbreak of
the First World War, Italy declared war
on Austria-Hungary. The mountains and
valleys along the Isonzo became the scene of
bloody and costly battles. (melancholic music)
(firing) (speaks in foreign language) - [Translator] The
Austrians conducted the war in a way that
forced the Italians in a very specific direction. And to a certain degree,
they accepted the situation. They fought for
the mountain peaks. And they fought in this
barren Isonzo region without making any progress. By 1917, there'd been 11
battles of the Isonzo, with enormous loss of
life; whereby, as a rule, Italian casualties
were far higher than those of the
Austro-Hungarian forces. Between 1915 and 1917,
the Italians never pushed the Austrian front back
more than 34 kilometers, at a cost of 250,000 dead. - [Narrator] At the
outbreak of hostilities, the ratio of Italy's
military strength to that of Austria-Hungary
was 10 to one. Consequently, the
Italian High Command hoped to advance on
Vienna very quickly, a fatal misjudgment. (melancholic music) The new front ran from the
Dolomites and the Carnic and Julian Alps along
the Isonzo River and down to the Adriatic. (melancholic music) (dramatic music) The upper course of the Soca, as the Isonzo is
known in Slovenia, is characterized by a
rugged mountain landscape, which gradually gives way
to more gentle scenery. Here, there are
traces everywhere of the first major war
of the 20th century. (melancholic music) Today, this mountain
region with its many peaks, branch valleys, and
crystal-clear streams is a popular
destination for hikers and recreational
sport enthusiasts. (water rushing)
(mellow music) But history is ever present. The ruins of emplacements,
forts, and trenches, but above all, the numerous
military cemeteries are a reminder that
half a million men lost their lives here. Remembrance of the
battles of the Isonzo makes the region an
international memorial site. (somber music) The small town of Kobarid,
Caporetto in Italian, is one center of remembrance
of the First World War. In its museum, many of the
dead are no longer anonymous. Names and faces also
show the conflict as an enmeshing of
personal destinies, war as suffering for
hundreds of thousands. Here, visitors from
all over the world, especially school classes
from Slovenia and Italy, yet rarely from Austria,
can experience history, their common history. (somber music) (chattering in foreign language) (speaking in foreign language) - [Translator] Naturally, when
we embarked on the project and introduced
innovations in the museum, we wanted to know what other
parts of Europe had to offer. Back then, we rather
looked up to them. We visited former
battlefields in Italy, in the Dolomites, and
on the western front, the Sommes, Ypres, Verdun,
and similar places. It made us realize
that our region has an exceptional
wealth of wartime relics. On the Vrh nad Peski,
on the Batognica, but also on the
Krn and in Lapena, there are countless
reminders of the hostilities. If you go even farther
up, you'll find trenches, caves, observation posts, arms
bases, and similar things. We've realized that
this mountain region contains more military relics
than anywhere else in Europe. Other areas, of course,
have their vestiges of war, but rarely in such abundance. This motivated us, together with the
Pot Miru Foundation, the name means Walk of Peace, to establish six
museums in the region, and to preserve and reconstruct
these wartime relics as something to
offer our visitors. (mellow music) (plaintive music) - [Narrator] The events
of the First World War are deeply entrenched in
the collective conscience of the inhabitants
of the region. Many had grandfathers
or great grandfathers that had been
conscripted and fought in the Austro-Hungarian army. Some of their reports and
stories have been published. Their tales are still passed on from generation to
generation by word of mouth. (speaks in foreign language) - [Translator] I was born
in one of the villages in this valley, in
Volca, near Tolmin, which lay virtually
at the very center of the fighting in
the First World War. Sadly, I never knew
either of my grandfathers because both died
before I was born. So I never had the chance to
hear any of their stories. Consequently, it's all the
more important for me today, on the one hand, as a historian, but also out of purely
personal interest, to learn about the experiences of our grandfathers
and great grandfathers. It enables me and others to
form a picture of the time, a picture, not only
of political events, but also of the
social situation. It gives us the opportunity to become acquainted with
the customs and traditions, which are being preserved in
this valley for many years. - [Narrator] Like many
people in the region, Mirko Kurincic has
been a keen collector of wartime relics ever
since he was a boy. He likes to show young
visitors like Bostjan Lusnik hidden caves or
military emplacements. He used to find old shells
here even as a child. For a while, the
cave also served as a field hospital for
wounded Austrian soldiers. Relics of the war can
still be found here that should best be left alone. Here, history is alive,
as a very real danger. (chattering in foreign language) (speaking in foreign language) - [Translator] About
three months ago, I came up here by chance, and found a 150-caliber shell. You could tell that
it'd already been fired. I immediately suspected that it might be
a poison gas shell that hadn't burst. Maybe the explosive
had seeped out. But the projectile could still
have been filled with gas. So, I rang up the explosive
ordnance disposal people and they confirmed that
it was indeed a gas shell. (speaking in foreign language) (mellow music) - [Narrator] For many years, the World War Museum in Kobarid has worked closely
with the Pot Miru, Walk of Peace Foundation. Its aim has been to preserve the many mountain emplacements
and supply routes, as well as the former military
facilities in the valley, and to link them as peace
walks, as a monument for the members of the
many European peoples who died here as soldiers, and as a reminder of
the human cost of war. (speaks in foreign language) - [Translator] The
Foundation was set up in 2000 to preserve our cultural
and historical heritage, which is so abundantly present
in the midst of nature, on the mountains
and in the valleys. The aim was to
process it for tourist and research purposes. The results of
this research work are presented here
in the museum. Through the cooperation
between Pot Miru and the museum, an excellent
vehicle has been created for conveying the legacy
of the Isonzo Front to different generations
and target groups. The foundation
cultivates this legacy in the Upper Soca Valley. Six open-air museums
have been established, which, through the Pot
Miru Walk of Peace, are linked to natural sites, tourist information
centers, and museums. We also work
together with several Italian communities,
provinces, and museums. By 2015, we plan to
extend the Walk of Peace from the Alps to the Adriatic. (mellow music) - [Narrator] In the
former Yugoslavia, the First World War generated
hardly any interest. The Second World War held far
more appeal for historians. It was only after
Yugoslavia broke up, and Slovenia became
a sovereign state that they began to focus on
the events of World War I. This made the many decades of
work by private collectors, like Mirko Kurincic,
all the more important. Often not only have they
set up small museums, they had also recorded tales
told by old war veterans as the region's
historical memory. Today, they are able to
pass on their knowledge to the next generation. (speaks in foreign language) - [Translator] On a Sunday,
whenever I had time, I'd visit soldiers who'd
fought in the First World War, and ask them to tell me
what it had been like. Now that I'm older myself, as old as they were in
those days, I reflect. They were touched that I was
curious enough to inquire. Often, they'd just say, "What
do you want me to tell you? "I've told it already. "Those days are long gone. "Let's look to the future." They lacked the
confidence to talk. But I was interested, and
so, I encouraged them. And I listened to
what they had to say. (mellow music) (upbeat music) - [Narrator] The
impressive traces which the war left
in the mountains between 1915 and 1918, along the former
southwestern front bordering on Italy, are also a reminder that
at no time before (mumbles) has so much effort
in terms of man and equipment been invested in contesting
literally every peak. (upbeat music) (speaks in foreign language) - [Translator] We see
from the land front the mountain front
on the one side, and the front in the
Isonzo region on the other, that the Austrian
were not prepared for this massive deployment
of troops by the Italians. They had to make every effort to at least put up some
kind of smokescreen. Right through to the 11th hour, the Austrians took
every possible step not to provoke the
Italians in any way. Military measures
were only taken at the very latest
point in time. (somber music) (mellow music) (speaks in foreign language) - [Translator] Life in
the mountains, of course, was exceptionally strenuous. Everything had to be
carried up from the valley. At first, there were no roads, not even mule tracks
of any quality, on which artillery
could be brought up. In this respect, the Austrians
were actually brilliant because their highest mountain
position was on the Ortler. And it's well-known. The Ortler was the highest peak in the Austro-Hungarian empire. All other mountain positions were developed for
artillery as well. First and foremost, the
Austrians built cable ways, whereas the Italians, who
had roughly the same problems to cope with, but usually
over shorter distances, proved to be the best
road builders of all time. (somber music) - [Narrator] With
enormous effort, emplacements were constructed,
and passages and caves many kilometers long,
driven into the mountains. And the work took place
under extreme conditions. (speaks in foreign language) - [Translator] The differences
in altitude here are great. The summit of the
Krn is more than 2,000 meters above the valley. The Austrians had decided to
fortify the defensive line on the mountain ridges,
for strategic reasons. And also because of
a troop shortage. The Italians also believed
that control of the peaks also meant control
of the valleys, and that justified the massive
efforts that were made. (somber music) - [Narrator] Today,
hikers can experience the eventful history
of the Isonzo region and the beauty of the
landscape at the same time. (water current rushing) Remembrance of the war
is to be preserved, but without proving a burden. The Walks of Peace lead to
places of historical interest and to impressive
natural monuments. (mellow music) (speaks in foreign language) - [Translator] At the start
of the tourist season, we always check
the entire length of the Walk of Peace, all the open-air museums, and also other
relics and vestiges. Any measures that are
necessary are then coordinated with the Cultural Heritage
Protection office. We inspect and deal
with any problems, like access made difficult
or more dangerous by heavy downpours. Between April and September, we also have staff
at our disposal who, in cooperation
with the tourist and historical associations, look after the open-air museums. This is done for a
period of six months, because it is very difficult
to work here in winter. - [Narrator] Obviously,
the work Masa Klavora does for Pot Miru involves more than looking after outdoor
museum facilities or organizing
international cooperation. - [Translator] I think that
above all, the older generation, but also with younger
people who work in tourism, for example, and deal
directly with it, must be aware of the importance of these historic events
on the Isonzo front, like the Battle of Kobarid,
Caporetto in Italian. We know that it has
shaped our identity, perhaps even our character. At the same time, it is
a personal consciousness of remembrance that is passed on from generation to generation,
something we are proud of. We of younger years,
however, are less burdened. So, it is easier
for us to look back at history and past
conflicts, also with regard to new future cooperation
with all these peoples. (mellow piano music) - [Narrator] This old
stone house near Trieste is where Roberto Todero lives. Ever since his youth,
he has been interested in La Grande Guerra,
the Great War of his grandfathers
and great grandfathers, as the First World War is
still known in Italy today. In his private museum,
he tries above all to show what everyday life
for the troops was like. (speaks in foreign language) - [Translator] When
someone visits a museum for the first time,
things like bombs, shells, rifles,
weapons as a whole, create a deep
impression, because war is usually associated
with weapons. But a soldier going
into the field has to take with him from home a whole range of things,
which will perhaps not be provided by the army. There are letters
written by soldiers, in which they ask for a
needle to be sent to them. A needle is important. Without it, you can't
sew on a button, and without buttons, braces
won't hold up trousers. Or something might need mending. I remember one
soldier who wrote home asking for a piece of material. The lining of his
pocket was torn, so he couldn't keep cigarettes or pencils in it anymore. Indeed, it's the
personal effects that bring us closest of all to the soldiers of
the First World War. - [Narrator] The interest
in history is great, but people long since moved away from the glorification
of the fallen, which is still practiced
by officialdom even today. Instead, they want answers
to the question of why so many human lives were
sacrificed on both sides. (speaks in foreign language) - [Translator] Explaining
the modern-day attitude by the countries
involved in the war that took place a century
ago is a complex issue. Initially, for example,
the First World War has been a constant topic
over the last hundred years. It has never been forgotten. But there is a major
difference between the state, which officially
places the focus on remembrance of the
heroes of the war, and young researchers,
who are a step removed from classic historical
research, and are exploring the hidden and unknown
aspects of the conflict. This is important. Research interest is also great in neighboring
Slovenia and Austria, and also in more
distant countries, which used to be behind
the Iron Curtain. There, this kind of
commemorative research into the First World War has only recently begun
to gain a foothold. (mellow piano music) - [Narrator] Roberto Todero's
comprehensive collection also contains numerous gems,
like propaganda brochures designed primarily to portray,
and thus justify the war as an inevitable
heroic struggle. Time and again, this
committed collector also puts together exhibitions to be seen in Italy,
Slovenia, or Austria. (mellow piano music) Pictorial representations
from the war also highlight the
multinational composition of the Austro-Hungarian army. (mellow piano music) (somber music) One of the most fiercely
contested mountain crests in the hinterland of
the town of Gorizia, Gorica in Slovenian,
was the Monte Santo, known today as Sveta Gora. Its monastery was
reduced to rubble by the Italian artillery. The Austrian positions
were bombarded from the Monte
Sabotino opposite. Time and again, the Italians tried to storm the mountains, often for days on end. The slopes were strewn
with rotting corpses. In the sixth Battle of
the Isonzo in August 1916, the Italians finally
managed to take the Austrian
bridgehead at Gorizia. It is there in
particular that today, numerous monuments
still bear witness to La Grande Guerra,
the Great War. (somber music) Roberto Todero's
favorite research area is the Karst landscape
between Gorizia and Trieste, which, in
Austro-Hungarian times, belonged to the
Austrian Littoral and bordered on the
Duchy of Carniola, Krajina in Slovenian. Here on the high
plateau of Toberdo, and on the Monte Hermada,
for two and a half years, the Austrians and the Italians
repeatedly fought battles that were particularly costly. (speaks in foreign language) - [Translator] In
the First World War, the Karst Plateau was regarded as an exceptionally
horrific battlefield. Because the ground
was so hard to work, digging trenches called
for major sacrifices and took a lot of time. Men from all over Europe
fought in the Karst, something the
visitors who come here have to be made aware of. Anyone hiking in the Karst
will constantly come across traces of the First World War. Even though many will
not automatically be recognizable as such. The simple stone walls served to demarcate
farmers' properties. But many of them were also used as cover during the war. So, they are the remains
of trenches and shelters. Only maps of the time indicate which walls separate properties and which close off trenches. (somber music) - [Narrator] The Karst has
far more vegetation today than during the First World War. It is only through the
efforts of Roberto Todero that many former
emplacements and caves have been rediscovered
and researched. Even as a teenager, he used
to come here with friends to look for relics
of the Great War. (somber music) (speaks in foreign language) - [Translator] I've
always been interested in the history of
the First World War. That's perhaps because
my grandfathers and other relatives
fought on opposing fronts. So, whenever we had
celebrations at home, stories were often told from
both sides of the front. Perhaps my interest
also stems from the fact that I learned German at school, and thus began to focus more on this side of history, which had attracted
less attention. In Italy, up until
a few years ago, if you bought a history
book on the First World War, you'd read the
Italians are coming, and the Italians are attacking. And on the other side
were the Austrians. It was interesting
to investigate and find out precisely
who these Austrians were, because the Austrians
of those days were not only the
Austrians of today, but troops came from
all parts of the empire, from the Hungarian,
the Slav part, Slav in the widest sense. In other words,
the Czech Republic, and Slovenia, Croatia,
the Serbian minority, Bosnia, and Rovinia
farther to the east. All those people
came to our region and were sacrificed
here for the war. (somber music) - [Narrator] Thus, the
Austrian troops were drawn from all over the
multi-ethnic empire. Every nation was represented, but in death, they
were all the same. In the memoirs of a
Bosnian Muslim officer called Matablacevich, we read that the foul stench
pervaded the air. Italians, Slavs, Magias and
Germans lay in the pile, one on top of the other,
their corpses bloated and blackened by the fierce sun. (somber music) (speaks in foreign language) - [Translator] During
the last two battles, the third line of defense
was on the Monte Hermada. The first lay only about
one a half kilometers in front of it. Today, it takes about an hour
to walk from one to the other. The Monte Hermada was the
last Austro-Hungarian fortress before Trieste. Historians spoke about Hermada
fortress even in those days. The Hermada was compared
with the fortress because its interior
consisted of hundreds, if not thousands of
natural and manmade caves, which served as camps and
hiding places for the troops. (somber music) (mellow music) - [Narrator] Numerous
monuments were erected to the fallen, even while
the war was still raging. Their death were glorified
as exemplary sacrifices for the emperor, the
king, and the fatherland. The fascist monument
to Italy's fallen in Redipuglia on the
edge of the Karst is probably the biggest of these
stone tributes to the dead. (melancholic music) And even in the most
remote branch valleys, there are military cemeteries, cared for today by various
private associations and public institutions in
Slovenia, Italy and Austria. Over the years, they have become international
commemorative sites. (speaks in foreign language) - [Translator] We
show respect for those who fell in the First World War by bearing witness
to their sacrifice, through monuments, and by
observing the special days on which the dead of
the war are remembered. The soldiers who died
in the First World War deserve a place where
they can rest in peace and be remembered. It's important for
there to be places where the families
of those who fell can lay flowers for
their dead relatives, or light a candle. These monuments, therefore,
mean a great deal, especially to those
family members who don't know where
their great grandfather, or their grandfather
died, or disappeared in the First World War. But these monuments
should not glorify war. They should be an
exaltation to peace. (melancholic music) - [Narrator] Some of the
relics along the former front are extremely
well-preserved, like the old Austrian fortress of
Kluze, north of Bovec. Built in the 1880s,
it was designed to deny enemy forces
access to the cradle pass. (melancholic music) Standing on the
Javorca in Tolmin at the end of a
remote branch valley in the middle of the Julian Alps is the Memorial Church
of the Holy Spirit. It was built in 1916
by Austrian soldiers in line with plans drawn up by Viennese art-nouveau
architect Remigius Geyling. Emblazoned on the
outside of the nave are the coats of arms of
the 12 Austrian crown lands, along with those of the
cities of Rijeka and Trieste. (bell pealing) It was a long time before
the hopes for peace of those who built this
little church were fulfilled. But even today,
visitors still remember the victims of the
First World War. (firing)
(dramatic music) The elongated Kolovrat
Bridge south of Kobarid, Caporetto in Italian,
was one of the theaters of the 12th and final
battle of the Isonzo. Today, the World War
Museum also offers visitors guided walks to the
former Italian positions with commentary in a
choice of six languages. - West, Kobarid, to the
mountains (mumbles). - [Narrator] The 12th
battle on the Isonzo was a large-scale
counteroffensive by united Austro-Hungarian
and German forces, with the aim of pushing
back the Italian army behind the former Austrian
imperial border in Friuli. (mellow music) - So, as you see, the
concentration of fire was extremely high, because
speaking statistically, the second army was
almost 700,000 of soldiers from the sector Bolec. Not far from here, just
15 meters or maybe 20, to the left, there's an
honor machine gun position. That means,
statistically speaking, each 15, 20 meters in each rink, there was one
machine gun position. (somber music) - [Narrator] The assembly
of man and equipment on each side was staggering. 41 Italian divisions
faced 34 German and Austro-Hungarian divisions. German Supreme Command
had long ridiculed their Austrian
allies on the Isonzo for waging what it described as an Austro-Hungarian
private war. But in autumn 1917,
it became clear that an Italian breakthrough
in the southwest was merely a question of time. (speaks in foreign language) - [Translator] After the
11th battle of the Isonzo, the Austro-Hungarian
troops were finished. They were completely exhausted, and had hardly any ordnance left for waging a further offensive. Yet, it was at that moment that Germany offered to
help out with troops. Emperor Karl would
have preferred Austro-Hungarian troops to
be detached in the east, and used to strengthen
the southwest front. But the Germans had
rejected the idea. "This time, we'll send our
own troops," they said. In the end, and entire army
was dispatched, the 14th. It had a totally different
approach to warfare. And in particular, far better
weaponry than the Austrians. In addition, there
were also weapons, which up to that point, had
not been used on any front, and to a certain extent,
were tested here: new types of poison gas. The offensive was prepared
with extreme thoroughness, and proved successful
within around 48 hours. In particular, the
use of poison gas under the defile of Zaga
played a decisive role. (somber music) - [Narrator] In Austro-German
remembrance literature of the period between
the two world wars, the 12th battle of the
Isonzo is mystified as the miracle of Caporetto. The use of poison gas is
rather left unmentioned. In all, 900 metal tubes fired
gas canisters at the enemy. (somber music) Bombardment of the
Italian positions with poison gas grenades began at 2:00 a.m.
on October 23rd and lasted for several hours. The night was calm,
and the poisonous but odorless diphosgene
gas drifted silently into the walkways,
trenches, and caves, surprising many Italian
troops as they slept. (somber music) (dramatic music) Emperor Karl and the Austrian and German High
Command were satisfied. One hill after
another was taken. Finally, the last Italian
line of defense was overrun. (dramatic music) (speaks in foreign language) - [Translator] The moment the
Italians began to pull back, the enemy mounted
a renewed attack. As a result, withdrawal
by the second and third Italian armies turned into a complete rout. What had been hoped would
prove to be a local success, achieved with the help
of combined forces, proved to be a
breakthrough battle, which far exceeded
the planned objective. Austro-German forces
took the Isonzo, crossed the Tagliamento,
and reached the Piave. A short time later, the
Piave was also crossed, and Austro-Hungarian
troops stood before Venice. After so many years of
war, that's probably why people spoke afterwards
of a miracle. (melancholic music) - [Narrator] For
propaganda purposes, the last Austrian Emperor Karl had himself filmed in the
retaken town of Gorizia. But the German
empire soon withdrew its troops from Italy. They were needed on the
western and eastern fronts. The German and the
Austrian emperors still hoped they'd be
able to win the war, but in 1917, the United
States of America entered the conflict, and the mass slaughter continued for yet another year. Finally in 1918, Austria-Hungary laid down its arms. The war was over. The Habsburg Monarchy history
and the Isonzo region, which had been defeated
with at such as a high cost fell to Italy. (dramatic orchestral music) What have remained
are the traces which the First World War
has left in the landscape and in the consciousness
of people here. But what has also remained
is the joint remembrance of the hundreds of thousands
of dead on the Isonzo, and the hope that
a human tragedy of such massive proportions will never be repeated. (dramatic orchestral music)
