World’s Fastest FatBoy PART ONE- Billy Lane How To Customize EVO Harley Indian Larry Choppers Inc

[Music] hey Billy Lane I know what you're thinking uh not a whole lot of style going on here this is a 1999 Harley Davidson Fat Boy the last of the Evo model engine before they went to the twin cam a lot of the other models in 1999 already had the twin cam engine the fat boy still retain the carburated Evo this isn't a badl looking bike I got a really great deal on this thing because Soft Tails aren't popular right now everybody wants DIN and fxrs and Baggers and and the Harley-Davidson soft tail isn't popular right now but when I started customizing and building custom bikes the Harley-Davidson Softtail was it and I love the style of the fat boy it just doesn't look that great in its stock form the Harley-Davidson soft tail of the Evo era has great bones so watch what I do to this thing and take it from this to a really sweet customized Harley-Davidson anybody love to ride first thing I'm going to do let empty the fuel tanks using the flow fast to so great it gets the fuel out of here so quickly reverse the pump and it just starts draining the fuel right out of the tank so fast there wasn't a lot of fuel in here but it just drains it so quickly it's unreal I love this thing I got the fuel out of the tanks I'm going to raise the bike up on the HMC lift these HMC lifts are great if you're looking for a motorcycle lift I highly recommend one I'll show you why is as I'm working on the bike why I like this lift so much but I'm going to raise the bike up I'm going to start to it I'm going to show you how you take a fairly not so pretty Harley-Davidson Fat Boy and make it look really sweet so one of the things I like about this lip so much is it has a really low first setting and a really high last setting so you can really elevate it to any level you want low is great to get the seat and the tanks off and start working up high and then as I want to work underneath the bike I can raise all the way up so it's one of the reasons I love the HMC lift the first thing people change when they buy a Harley-Davidson is they change the handlebars the exhaust pipes and the seat those are the things you usually see change the most and they can really affect the way a bike looks like this seat is probably really comfortable but I cannot stand the way that it looks and it's got to come off the luggage rack on the back is just not for me that's going to come off uh I am going to change the handle bars right now I'm going to strip the tins off the gas tanks and the fenders off of it uh for a couple reasons one I want to get the tanks off cuz I'm going to change the handlebars and what changing the handlebars I'm going to run all the electrical wires from the handlebars through the inside of the handlebar just to clean up the look there all the electrical connections that connect the handlebar controls to the motorcycle or in between the gas tanks so the tanks need to come off anyhow but also Red's just not my color I bought a really nice set of 1997 tins that are black and silver you'll see them as I start to put them on but the black and silver is going to completely change the style and the look of this bike color is as important as anything else when when doing a motorcycle some colors will work with some bikes and some don't work with others to me this burgundy red and black isn't for me um it's in actually really good condition so I'm going to sell it off to somebody who is trying to put together a nice fat boy and this is their color but it's not for me so it's coming off you watch what a difference just taking this Mustang seat off here makes with the way this bike looks I mean that thing like I said I'm sure it's comfortable but it dominated the whole motorcycle the seat just dominated the bite and that's not what you want with something like this you know I'm going to put a minimal seat on it when I put it all back together you're a lot more comfortable ride easier to swing your leg over it look a whole hell of a lot better I got the dash off I'll go ahead and pull both these tanks all right with this with the seat the tanks and the dash all off of the bike I'm going to go ahead and move to the rear fender to get the rear fender off I got to take the rear wheel out I'm going to lower this bike lowering harleydavidson Softtail changes the way it looks in an incredible way so I need to loosen the swing arm bolts anyhow to lower it to get the shocks out so I'm going to go ahead and um pull the wheel out loosen the swing arm up and get the rear fender off and uh and while I'm doing that I'll show you everything I'm doing to make it look better one of the things I want to show you that I love about the HMC lift is it's got this rear Dropout that allows me to get the wheel out without having to Jack the bike up so much super convenient feature about this thing I already unplugged the two gang plugs that go from the motorcycle to the rear fender so the rear fender is ready to come off now go ahead and unbolt it I need all this wiring harness that's on the rear fender for the fender I'm going to replace it with so I'm going to go ahead and take the fender off and strip this stuff off of it so I made a little handdrawn schematic for the back looking at the back of my plug where all the wires go so you know I can look at the manual and the manual will tell me where everything goes but that shows me a lot of stuff I don't really need at this moment so all I really do is just make a little handdrawn schematic and I can pop the pins out of these gang plug then I can pull the wires through the fender strut change the fender reconnect all the wires based on my schematic and and everything's going to work like it [Music] should I bought this set of 1997 Harley Fatboy paint it's original paint really beautiful I love the colors the black and the silver it's not perfect but it's really nice it's going to make a huge difference in the bike just the color alone is going to make a huge difference but then other things I'm going to do to it you'll see with the color really kind of make the bike shine here's the collection of everything out I'm going to change on the fat boy cosmetically start with the board cutting to swing arm these are from the late 1990s early 2000s really rare they were using them in Miami I used this on my bad boy a couple of years ago this one needs a little bit of a hand polish but beautiful B aluminum swing arm got the laa barebone solo seat with the basket weave 110th Anniversary Harley-Davidson derby cover the gas cap medallions which I I love these they remind me of the '90s so much old prototype double barrel shotgun Chopper Inc inspection cover for the primary Avon grips you got to have those change the hleb bar something everybody changes on bikes these PM brakes front and rear are new I got a six piston for the front and the four piston for the rear but I got them really cheap I think a couple hundred bucks a piece from a buddy of mine then I got the front and rear lowering kit of course there's the factory fat boy paint from 1997 just love that silver and black with the gold what a look this thing's going to look amazing amazing with these parts on it I'm going take this front fender off this is a Softtail shock absorber underneath the five-speed gearbox there's a bolt here on the rear that I have to take out that attaches it to the swing arm and a bolt here on the front have to take out that attaches the shock to the frame I'll take those two bolts out on each side of the bike get both the shocks out I'll go and put the lowering kit in them I got the Harley-Davidson soft tail shock absorber in the strong way pneumatic press here what I'm going to do is I'm going to use the press to compress the shock I get this little retaining clip out of the shock and I can pull the shock apart and I'm going to remove this link and add this adjustable shock Ling this is the lowering kit for the rear of the soft tail so I'll remove this link install this link reassemble everything then these links are adjustable by extending this link I effectively lengthen the shock that allows that allows the swing arm to Pivot upward which lowers the motorcycle so this is how the lowering kit works this pneumatic press is really awesome I do is push the button and let the air do the work for me and let's use a small screwdriver and a hooked scribe and pull this clip out then when I release the pressure from the Press I can take the shock apart take this link off add the lowering link reassemble it and I got a lowered Harley-Davidson soft tail so I loosen the jam nut with a 1 and 1/16 inch wrench and put a 1in wrench on the shock there's a Softtail shock with the original link removed and here's the aftermarket lowering kit extended link that I'm going to install and here's a side-by-side comparison of the shock cores uh here's the original shock core with the original link here's your other shock core with the extended link and the one I'm going to add so I'm going to put this extended link now on this shot core I'll reassemble them reinstall and I've got a lowered soft tail now both shot cores have the extensions installed now I'll go back to the strongway Press reassemble everything and they're ready to go in the bike install my core back into the cam put it in the press and I'm going to rec compress the assembly let's go ahead and Pop That retainer ring back in there pressure pressure off right shocks are ready to go back in I always put a little anti-seize lubricant on the bolt shoulder where it rides in the shock just to keep them from squealing high strength thread sealer on the threads and I'm install that in the shock before I put the shock up in the bike goes up in from the bottom get that bolt started you can see right under the gear box a little bit difficult to see because of everything that's in the way but she's in there I'll tighten these bolts down swap the swing arm out and this job's done okay this is the stock Harley-Davidson soft tail swing arm it's intended to make the Harley-Davidson soft tail frame look like a hard tail with a triangular rear section I'm going to remove the stock Harley-Davidson Softtail swing arm and install a build aluminum boy cottington swing arm from the 1990s late 1990s early 2000s uh I did one of my Harley-Davidson Bad Boy a couple years ago I'll put the link below you can go back and watch that video if you want to see me installing it on the bad boy but I found another one got it from my friend Steve Dominguez I'm going to put it on this bike the brake caliper that's on here will go with the swing arm and I have a Performance Machine build brake to go on the boy swing arm so I'm going to disconnect this brake line now get the swing arm out of the bike and install the boy cottington swing arm and pull this brake line back get it up and out of the way for now all right now I'm going to go ahead and pull these two uh swing on paper bolts just one on this side of the bike one on the other side of the bike I'm going to pull them out and uh the swing arm is already released from the shock so I should be able to pull this thing out pretty easy this is the boy cottington Billet swing arm uh it's got really beautiful milling machine work done to it um it doesn't look great now it's kind of white and oxidized I'll go ahead and polish it once I get on the bike cuz it's just easier uh I've tried to polish them before when they're loose and they just you know it's it's um you can't really get into it and rub into it hard because it's wants to move around on you so once I get it mounted on the bike I'll go ahead and polish it in the bike and clean it up and make it look really nice plus installing it I'm going to get my dirty hands all over it any anyhow all right there's the board cic and build aluminum polish swing arm installed on the Soft Hill with the lowering kit right now I'm going to go ahead and set up this rear brake I have a Performance Machine new rear brake I'm going to go ahead and install it and set it up on the swing on first make sure everything fits and then get the rear wheel back in this bike okay I'm starting to get the wheel back in the bike I've got the brake caliper set up it's need a little issue with uh the brake anchor uh and all the actual spacing so I'm working through through all that right now I have the brake anchor for the Boyd cottington swing arm to hold that PM brake caliber so I'm having a machine one out of a big chunk of aluminum block uh so this is going to basically be a t-shape it'll be cut across the bottom here I'm going to bring this level down to this side and this is going to be a protruding kind of a sliding ledge that's going to hold the brake anchor from rolling around when you hit the brakes so you'll see when it gets done you'll get a better idea of what it's going but I'm having to cut it in the milling machine now okay so there's a top side of it machine I got to flip it over now I'm going to cut most of this material off and even this side out with this side but um you can kind of get a general idea what I'm making here well well nothing goes is plan right uh the brake bracket for this pm CER this is supposed to be for a soft tail but it must be for a later soft tail they had a wider rear tire and a wider swing arm so it's not fitting in my frame this section will fit up top I got a machine it on the bottom here I've marked it with a sharpie where I need to machine it but it's way too thick here and I was having to spread the swing arm even to get it in and it's not a good move so I'm going to get this down to where it's 500,000 thick a half of an inch thick still be plenty strong I'm going to remove the rest of this material off of this and then flip it over machine the bottom side out it should slip right in everything should fit and I can get the back end done right there's the caliper all machined down you can see I took all this material off this came straight across here this came all the way back here so I took quite a bit of material off of it it should fit in the swing arm now I can get this thing finally installed and buttoned up I had to do a little relief here for it to clear the swing arm and the brake anchor but it's all going to work I relieved the bracket here so it'll slip back in behind the swing arm uh relieved it all up in here so that everything can move over toward the cam side of the bike the thickness of this bracket was pushing the wheel over to the left side of the bike it just wasn't going to let it fit so I took all that material out of there now it's going to fit in here just right this is where I machined down that bracket I took a lot of material off of it everything fits in there now nice my wheel spins freely I hook up the brake line bleed it I can move on to the the front about a day and a half of wrangling with the rear end of this thing I got the rear fender on it I got the void swing arm on it the PM breake the brakes bled it's lowered everything in the back is done all the electrical wiring harnesses are reconnected so I'm going to move to the front of the motorcycle always blows me away when I take something apart how loose a lot of the stuff is that you know should be really tight like the front axle clamp on this front end was really loose um just didn't spend her time with it [Music] okay there's a drain screw in the back here where you drain the fork fluid from I'm not even going to pull that out I do it a different way I take the screw that goes in the bottom of the fork damper out and the flu will run right out through the bottom of the fork and there's a really easy way I show you I pump the flute out versus letting it drain what I do is I just pull the the slider down and then go back up you get like a hydraulic pump so I don't know what they did but this fork oil is really dirty and then I just take a hook scribe and I pull these seal retainer Clips out to get the slider off the fork leg once you get the seal hand clip out you just slide down go ahead and pull these Fork tube caps out and there's a pinch bolt underneath this tin here and you loosen up with a wrench but you can get the pinch bolt loose without taking the whole tin off and having to pull the headlight off which saves you a bunch of time so I got that pinch bolt in the bottom Triple Tree loosened I take this Fork tube cap out I can slide this tube right out of the front end of the bike there you go to get the fork tube cap out sometimes they can be in there really tight I hold the fork tube between a set of V blocks in my Welding Table with this clamp going to be careful not to hold it down where the seal rides cuz if it spins and you gouge that fork tube gouge the hard Chrome in it when the seal goes over that gouge it's going to tear the seal and create a leak so you want to always hold it up near the top where it's clamped in the triple tree but I get these out and I've got a method I use cuz it's going to be spring loaded with pressure I always wear a heavy welding glove on my one hand and turn the wrench with the other hand and let the spring pressure shoot the cap there you go let it shoot it back out into my hand it's not a lot of pressure but it can hurt you if you have your face in front of it to give you a black eye so pull my spring out then just turn the tube upside down and let the rebound damper come out the rebound damper is what you're going to change to lower the bike the damper on the right is the one that came out of the motorcycle the one on the left is the one that's the lower kit that I'm going to put in the motorcycle this is going to lower the front of the Bike 2 to 2 and 1/2 in you see by the length of it that it's going to do that so I put this so I just reinstall this in the motorcycle with the rebound spring and I'm good to go going go ahead and put that right back in the tube so here's the fork tube with the original rebound damper in it and here's the fork tube with the lower and kit rebound damper in it you can see how much shorter it is I just put the spring back back in here here's my little home trick I teach you if you don't have a fully equipped Harley Shop with a press or all the right tooling to do this job the way they would do it in the manual is I use my welding glove to just apply some force and I turn the wrench till the threads grab there you go it reassembly is pretty straight straightforward you're just going to hold your your tube upside down and you want to make sure you put this cup on the bottom of the rebound damper tube you're just going to slide your seal up and you're bushing up and just slide your tube back down over it put your rebound damper two bolt back in the bottom I didn't used to have a tool for this so I used to knock these down with a little small punch and a hammer which you got to be really careful but I made this tool years go out of stainless steel tubing um cuz I couldn't afford to buy the tool you just knock it down in there and that'll knock your bushing back down into the slider then you put the seal back on the same way it came [Music] off and knock it down with the driver till it seats and you slide your retainer ring in there and that's it and that's your lowered Fork assembly um I can visually see how much shorter it is but uh bison looks so much better with that ride height taken out of it I got the lower legs painted I'm going to go ahead and Slide the lower legs back up into the triple trees now and just put these fork caps in temporarily I got to put fork oil in the top of it and I do it in through these caps but I'm going to go ahead and do that later when uh I have the handlebars off just because it's easier to get to them with the handlebars off so I'm going to go ahead and tighten up these pink bolts that hold these sliders [Music] here's something I'm really excited about handmade pie cut stainless steel exhaust two in one this thing is going to sound amazing especially once I get the horsepower up on it with all the engine upgrades even stock Evo through a pipe like this sounds really good I can't wait to hear it run these are the stock Harley-Davidson Fatboy handlebars not a bad looking Ben but let me show you what I'm going to replace them with okay I got these bars set up here against the the fat boy handlebars you can see the difference in the bend this is like a 1930 Speedway Motorcycle Racing Bend they call it a Speedster Bend these are the kind of handlebar Bend will be in a Harley-Davidson Springer front fork from the 30s and 1940s but I'm going to go ahead and install These Bars it should really change the look of the bike it's a subtle change but a bunch of subtle changes make a huge change collectively so I'm going to go ahead and drill These hamle Bars all these elect wires for the hand controls and the turn signals through the hammer bars I would normally take the blinkers off of the bike but I'm leaving them on because I've always liked when you ride at night I've always lik the way the orange running lights illuminate the motorcycle at night so I'm going to go ahead and leave them on there I can always take them off if I don't like them but I'm going to go ahead and show you how I drill These Bars run all the cables through and how this little subtle change of the handle bars makes a huge difference in the motorcycle here's my handlebars I'm going to drill in the middle on the bottom where my cables are going to come out and I'm also going to drill right here in these dimples this is where the hand control goes over normally The dimple is there here to make a relief for the wire but I'm actually going to drill in here so that all my wires can go through the middle and they'll come out right here in the middle between the handlebar risers going to use a piece of animal hide to keep the handlebars from getting scratched in the visce if you're against animal hide cancel me now but that's how I hold these without scratching them up then I start with a center drill uh just to I usually make what I usually do is drill three holes in the bottom handlebar and then hog them out with a die grinder with a porting bit I can use my milling machine but I know a lot of people at home watching this don't have a milling machine so I'm going to go ahead and use the three hole method you can see how simple this is and how good it works I just put a hole right in the middle and I go to either side of it and dra us two more [Music] holes nothing has to be exact then I'll just go ahead and enlarge these holes and hog them out with a die grinder I'm going to drill these to a half inch but if your dad taught you anything at all about being a man when you're growing up you start with a smaller drill bit first and then you move up that way you don't kill your big drill bits so I'm going to start with a smaller bit here drill these holes out and then move to a bigger bit [Music] here's the halfin [Music] [Music] bit okay there's my three holes I'll go with my die grinder open this up I'll debur it and smooth these edges out a little bit so the wires don't shape as they come through and I can drill the other holes I can drill the other holes at the releas I'm ready to pull my wires through [Music] start running these wires this job kind of takes a long time uh if you want some really good details on how I do it go back and click the link below and watch the video world's baddest bad boy I redid All The Handlebar wiring on my 1995 bad boy I show you in detail how I do it so you can go back and watch that video and see how I do this but I'll run through it real quick with you here just might skip some of the details so it's not redundant that's how my bars are going to sit I go ahead and put them in upside down for now so I can feed all my wiring through I'm most of the way through getting these handlebars on you see I got all the wires run through the handlebars now uh this is the the turn signal blinker wires going through the bar everything else is already through the bars you can see where I hogged out the center of that bar everything's coming through there one each for each hand control and then one each for each uh turn signal blinker unit so they're all in there I'm about ready to wrap this up I just got to pull this one this last one up through the handlebar get it up underneath this clamp get all the wiring pulled through reinstall these pins in the Doge plug plug everything back in change the carburetor put the tanks back on hook up the lines hook put some fuel in it and I should be ready to ride okay this is something I'm real particular about so when I set a bike up you know I sit on the seat put my feet up on the footboards like I'm riding and I I uh get my hands on the handlebars and I get myself to where I'm really comfortable want to make sure I can get my mirrors adjusted right but I I also really care about where my levers are so like when I'm looking at the bike my line of eyesight over the top of the grip I can just barely see the lever on either side I like going to be super comfortable you don't want to have it up the levers up too high or too low you have to reach for them so should be a really natural especially if you're in an emergency situation where you have to break hard or shift fast and be able to grab the clutch you want to be able to go from your grip right to your lever is really easy so something I always set up so I sit on the bike and I check everything and I make all my adjustments on the bike and then what I do is you know see I got to tighten everything up this one's a little a little low I'll tighten everything up and then when I'm done I'll go back and take each bolt out one at a time and lock tight it you know you want a little bit of blue Loctite on these so they don't come loose you don't lose a bolt while you're riding somewhere but I do that at the last minute make sure everything's where I want it because if you just move the bars of hair everything goes out of alignment your mirrors go out of alignment your levers are out of alignment so I'll go back and reset everything make sure I'm really happy with it all and uh then I'll tighten everything up at the last minute one of my last things after I test ride it I make sure I'm really happy and comfortable riding it because you know I like to r i ride every day so uh I want to make sure I'm comfortable I'm just going to push all my wires back through my Doge plug grommet I made myself a schematic of where the wires go in the back of the grommet into the plug I show you more of this again go back and look at the world's baddest bad boy video I show you in detail how I do this so there's my wires which match my schematic and I just pulled a gromet back and then just put you push your wires back into the Doge plug just push the the gra it back in the back in here's the SNS intake manifold and I just wanted to point out I didn't point it out before but the the uh let take manifold flanges have a f and a r on them for the front rear cylinder you got to pay attention to that because it's really hard to get in there uh get them to line up I don't think they will line up if you don't use the front and the rear properly I don't think those studs are equidistant from the center of the of the uh intake spigot bore so just always notice the F and the r on these whether it's Harley-Davidson they're marked or aftermarket or SNS you know they all have the fnr on them I'm going go ahead and install the SNS and manifold so you need for any carburetor you need a carburetor support there's one that should go from this case stud right to this bottom bolt I don't have it right now so one thing I don't have but I'm going to put this on cuz I don't this is my ride I don't have any Wheels any way to get around right now so I'm going to put this together without it then I'm going to go buy one from my local shop here and I'll install it but I don't recommend if it was my customers I'd never let it leave without it um even though the intake manifold holds the carburetor pretty good and the carburetor is not very heavy uh you definitely want to support the weight of your carburetor with support so I just want to point that out so you don't think I'm being sloppy I'm just I don't have it in my hand right now so I'm not using it but I am going to put one on there I use these long Ballin tea handles to do my intakes you see how it's coming in here at an angle they're really convenient I'm going right through that fuel hose grommet in the top motor mount but I come in from the other side of the bike this is the best way to get SNS carburetor on and off especially if you're working on one you know half the time when they have a problem it's because these bolts have come loose so I just grab these right away and get up in there first thing I do is check the tightness of the carburetor always exciting times putting a stead of gas tanks on a bike you know you're getting ready to be done you get to see what it's really going to look like uh put ring it fire it up so I'm finally at that point with the fat boy I'm going to go ahead and put this I got the left tank on I'm going to put this right tank on hook up the fuel lines and um you know be ready to rock and roll this thing I'm real excited about this and one of the things that really makes a huge difference in this motorcycle is the seat I had that big Mustang seat on it with the back rest and the huge pead and the luggage rack and the back rest for the passenger it's just a lot and this this little seat fits on here really nice and kind of really shows you the lines of the bike because the soft heel mimics a rigid frame the line of the frame should come right down with the swing arm and this seat kind of shows you that the seat that was on it was so big and bulky it flattened out the top of the bike and made it almost look like a mountain range versus now you have the gas tank Swip down and the seat goes back over the over the rear fender and you get a little bit of a feminine Contour there so think you can start to see now as I do this this comes together so I just added fork oil and uh put the fork tube cap in it and um there's only a couple more things I got to do I got to add Fuel and um just check a couple things real quick and I'm ready to run this thing and I can't even wait to hear it run with that pipe and see it on the ground all lowered and looking like it needs to be looking [Music] all right I got the 1999 Harley-Davidson Fatboy to a point where I'm really happy with it I just rode it a few minutes ago Run's awesome you can hear how it sounds the thing sounds really awesome with the stainless steel exhaust just really happy with it came out I mean compare this thing how it looks now to how it looked when I started the video shows you that you don't have to do a whole lot to make a really cool looking customized motorcycle you don't have to go full custom to make something like I've been doing for years you can actually customize the stockart of DAV and make it look really good I didn't do a whole lot here let me recap what I did do I lowered the suspension front rear I painted the lower legs black because they were real chalky from the oxidation from the salt I changed the handlebars and I put the Avon grips on it it got to have the avine grip so just the most comfortable grip made I changed the seat which is probably the biggest noticeable thing on the bike I went from that big Mustang two up seat with the back rest and the luggage rack to the laar bare bone solo seat which I just absolutely love it looks great it's comfortable I put the boy cottington swing armor on the back I have to have that I mean it reminds me of working on these bikes in the '90s Performance Machine build an aluminum four piston differential board brake caliper on the back just putting the stock brake caliper back on that one it wasn't going to fit and two the look of that brake with the swing arm kind of really goes together and the last thing I did was the handmade stainless steel pip cut exhaust pipe me the pipe totally changes the lines of the bike it's got a different look to it it's like nothing else I've ever really put on a bike before and I'm just really really happy with it with the way it sounds I already put the SNS carburetor on so in part two I'm going to put the SNS pist distance SNS heads and SNS cam in it and really give it some performance thanks for watching [Music] [Music]

Channel: Billy Lane

Views: 114,284

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Id: VhgmWKtVprk

Length: 40min 50sec (2450 seconds)

Published: Sun Apr 14 2024