Woodturning - Hickory with Malachite and Osmo Clear Extra Thin Review Turned in Real Time

hi everybody my name is jim i'm the owner of spragwood woodturning welcome to my channel so i've been asked by actually a few people to turn a bowl in real time so that's what we're gonna do and what i'm gonna do is basically i'll show the tool work in real time and i'll show the first grit before i move on to the next grit uh this should help uh beginners and you know maybe even woodturners that have been added as well hopefully be able to pick some stuff up and what we're going to use is this hickory now this was rough turned back in back in april and i showed it actually uh being cored on the channel and along with this we're actually going to inlay it with some nice green machete now of course this comes from jim d front of the channel he said along a bunch of inlay materials so that's what we're going to do um if you haven't subscribed please consider doing so leave a comment because that's where we're going to pick the 30 000 subscriber giveaway bowl from the comment sections down below in each video um and share with your friends i really appreciate it all right so let's get this cleaned off and we'll get a glue block on the bottom of this and get to turning so here i'm just cleaning off the bottom of the bowl the foot of the bowl where the glue block is going to go these are bowls are twice turned bowls and they have anchor seal on them which is a wax so it's important to strip that off before you actually put the hot melt glue on on the bottom of the bowl all right so i got three freshly sharpened gouges ready to go the only time that i'll actually cut out of here is when i move the camera around to get different shots enjoy 475 475 all right i promise i'm not going to talk all through this this is actually um 21 minutes of footage of the actual turning so you know when i finish turn like i said earlier these are these are twice turned bowls and my bowls when i put them on the shelf to dry are 10 percent the thickness of the diameter so 10 inches in diameter the bowl is going to be an inch thick the um that leaves me a lot of flexibility when i put the glue block on i don't have to be dead on um center when i'm putting that waste block on the bottom of the bowl i just need to be relatively close and i can still get a decent size inlay in the rim if that's what i want and i don't know if you if you noticed um in the opening that that this bowl air actually has a big crack in the bottom of it and so i'm just kind of turning that down to get past that again there's lots of thickness in the base of this bowl so that's not an issue either now i always start on the outside of the bowls um i like to um basically set the diameter to make sure that you know i've got any any tear out uh that may exist if there's any cracks that maybe i can turn away um that's basically gonna set the size of the bowl so you know i always start on the outside um here of course this is a 5 8 bowl gouge by david ellsworth and the handle is basically set at 45 degrees to the floor and this is a relatively safe cut uh when the bowl is out of balance the way it is uh if you actually try and turn the gouge so that the flutes are straight up and then try and do this you're probably going to get a really bad catch you can do those cuts after the bowl is in a rounded state but doing it before that can be can be risky so just kind of stick with this kind of sheer cut if you will until you can get it perfectly round at the at the rim at the top you'll you'll see that i i slow down my speed noticeably um it's not really such a big deal because i still have to flatten the top of this bowl but if you've got a bowl that's already got a flattened top and you're too aggressive when you push that gouge off the end you could actually get some tear out at the very top of the bowl so you know it's not really that big of a concern here but you'll see me i will slow down quite a bit even though this bowl isn't hasn't got a flat top on it yet and of course always check in your work every couple passes turn the lathe off have a look at it uh most times you can feel it through the gouge but a lot of times you can't you think you've got it and then um you know there's still like a little bar conclusion that you need to get rid of i don't know if you heard that or not but i'm wearing a self-powered respirator my my air pro shield from trend uh again you know my exposure this is probably gonna be more than most but you know it's important to protect your lungs so make sure you invest in a good respirator i've got a three horsepower dust collector and there's still a ton of dust in the air when turning so anyway if you haven't got one you should invest in one all right so this is the cut that i was telling you about earlier if you try to do this cut um when that bowl is really out of balance uh there's a chance that that right hand edge will dip into the bowl and then you're going to get a bad catch so you know it's um it will give you a nice smooth cut and i use it a lot especially up near the the um the top part of the bowl and here i'm sheer scraping uh again this is probably the most effective way to clean up the outside of a bowl after you've got it uh round it and uh again the more you drop the handle um straight up and down the longer the sheer cut will be and the better the surface it will give you i usually you know i looked at it there and yeah there's still another spot that i need to take care of but there you can see how the really long edge is shaving off those shavings and long ribbons but as i get down near the bottom it turns into you know almost kind of a half cut and the shavings aren't as long uh the longer the shavings are like that probably the better the sheer cut and the better the surface i never thought to show it here but um what what i what i do sometimes is i'll raise up the tool rest uh you know a half inch three quarters of an inch and i will shears sheer scrape um on the very not the top of the ball but a lot higher than you see me doing it there that way you're able to actually almost put the handle straight up and down uh the whole length of the um the bowl um if i think about it i'll try and do it in in an upcoming video and show it and there's that 45 degree cut again and you can see what part of the gouge is actually doing the cutting it's not a whole lot of it and that's that's what probably makes it safe because you're not exposing a big long edge to something uh where you can get a catch so my index finger here is controlling the depth of cut so that's um that's probably the most important thing when you're on the rim like that uh it's going to really control how much wood you're going to be taking off and of course you know you just kind of slide the gouge out slightly when you want to take more a little difficult to do on the inside because of course the inside curve is there you'd have to have a curved tool rest that would match the profile exactly even think about it um so on the inside the bowl gouge i don't really have it right on its side it's on maybe a 45 degree angle this stuff is cutting actually really nice so it's you know some woods are difficult more difficult to cut than others the important thing is that there is a shoulder there for the bevel to ride against if you try to go straight in with a gouge like you see it there um you're probably going to get a catch but once there's actually a little area for you know the bevel to ride on then you know it's not going to dig in any further you're kind of controlling that by the way you're swinging the handle in and out as to how much material is being taken off at this point now you're going to see the difference betw between a dull gouge and a sharp gouge lots of chatter lots of pushback on the tool so you know i can tell that the edge has gone off of this so i get another one and you start to get those long ribbons and you know it it shouldn't you shouldn't have to you know push very hard on a gouge to cut something if it's not cutting it on its own then it needs to be re-sharpened [Music] [Music] measuring wall thickness is absolutely crucial as you can see we're still quite thick in the base but you know um i don't know if you've ever really noticed this or not but i don't ever use scrapers in the base of of my of my turnings uh i know a lot of people do i don't i find that you know i with that long 5 8 bowl gouge with the sweat back edges on it i can go completely from the rim all the way to the center of the base on virtually every piece that i do so i don't see the need for scrapers nothing against scrapers you can certainly use scrapers like that to do the bottoms of the bowls or the bottom inside of the bowls i just don't personally see the need for them so i'm just doing a final feel for um you know any lumps and bumps and stuff that needs to be areas that need to be taken down and you know you you can give this a try shut the lathe off uh close your eyes and rub your hands over the surface of the wood and um i find that by closing my eyes it seems to make my my my touch even that much more sensitive and i can feel out any of those little areas where there's lumps and areas that need to be taken down um so then i'll you know with my eyes closed i'll bring my finger back and basically put my index finger on it and then open my eyes and have a look and say okay yeah that's the area there you can highlight it with a pencil if you want a lot of times i you know i just have a look in the bowl and say okay there's the area that i need to go at and you know i just keep doing that and um you know it's worked for me i've been doing it for many many years give it a try so i don't show this a lot on my when i do my videos and that's because you know usually they're too long as it is i do the outside i move to the inside i trim the inside and a lot of times um there'll be tension in the wood so as you're wiggling away uh and you know you're putting heat in the bowl um sometimes the outside will go a little more uh oval again so then i switch to the outside just trim it up and then get ready for sanding now there's that push cut and again it works fine here when i you know watch when i go to the very edge i'll slow right down because right now if i were to push hard on that and go to the end it's going to rip some of the the grain off the very top of the bowl very very fine cut so to trim this bowl completely and get it ready for sanding it took 14 minutes and 57 seconds well i didn't talk all through that just the majority of it sorry sorry about that um so i always start sanding at 60 grit uh sandpaper is a tool i've always treated it as a tool this is the final little step to get all the little lumps and bumps and you know that that sort of business um nice and flat and perfect now you see the speed that i'm going at and when i get near the base i'll never stay right in the dead center of that because that's how you're going to get a little divot in the um the base your bowl always move either side of center never stop right on center so usually it takes about three passes i don't go really fast with the drill i just go very slowly um ideally when i start off the drill you're seeing me using there can do 2400 rpm if i can crank the lathe speed up to you know 1200 rpm that's ideal i can slow that down at the higher grits um but you know if i had to guess i'd say that you know we're probably doing at about a thousand now uh in rpm and when you're doing inlays in the rim it's not real crucial to you know basically keep the rim flat i just do it i don't know i don't know if it's an obsessive compulsive thing i i just like to have the rim flat even though you know we're going to put a a groove in this and and put an inlay in it so that was three passes in and out in hickory that of course is very hard and we're good to go to the next grit now i'm i haven't changed my sandpaper i have the same sandpaper on the drill when you're sanding on the inside you're typically only using the edge of that three and a half inch nipple disc that you see there from sandpaper.ca when you move to the outside now you can use the center of that sanding pad or the sanding disc to get you know the best value out of your sandpaper sandpaper is not cheap so it's best to use it effectively i will say this that you know i was given advice many years ago that use sandpaper like your rich uncle's paying for it uh if you try to use sandpaper past it's it's life all you're going to end up doing is heat checking the bowl and it's going to cost you money in the long run um by rarely will i will i use that same 60 grit piece of paper on another bowl that goes right in the trash and then a new one goes on that boosts production and it will give you a better cut on the surface so forward and reverse i do find that sanding in reverse on the outside is a lot easier to do um you can get right down to the base of the bowl so my preferred method uh is to sand in reverse with the drill going forward and on the outside but i switch it back and forth when i'm working out near the rim i'll then put the drill in reverse and that way it cuts cleanly right up to the to the very edge so the sandpaper i'm using of course comes from sandpaper.ca they sponsor the channel and you know that's no fluke uh before i started my youtube channel i've been using sandpaper.ca for many many years i contacted them enter asked them if they were interested in sponsoring the channel and they said yeah and so you know you get a 10 discount yeah just use code inlay gym at uh at checkout and you'll get your 10 discount um you know they're three and a half inch the three and a half inches the ones that i prefer they have other sizes if you wish that's just kind of my go-to size that i like to use i like the fact that they're the dimple discs where they were the uh the dimples wrap around the three inch pad so you know you can actually use that kind of on its side if you're cleaning out beads and this sort of business and i've actually showed this before on the channel as well uh you know they make a fantastic product uh they do ship to the us you can get these dicks discs for 50 uh for twenty 20 canadian and a 50 pack so you know i really highly recommend getting these and of course the american dollar is so much stronger than ours is that it's you know it's worth your while um anyway it's what i've used and what i've used for many years and um check them out so while i was talking i don't know if you know certain or not but i switched to the sandpaper i found that it you know at 60 grit that should be kicking up a ton of dust and if it's not kicking up a done of a ton of dust then that tells me that it was wearing out so time to replace it it's an old rich uncle pain for your sandpaper thing so that took five minutes and 35 seconds to sand uh with 60 grit sorry about the dust on the camera but as you can see we have a perfectly clean surface no tear out and we're ready for 80 grit all right so the sand from 80 to 320 it took 10 minutes and 31 seconds now what i do is i sand after 60 i check to make sure everything is to my liking that i sand to 180 then i shut the lathe off and blow the bowl all out and have a good look at it that's really kind of it's not your last chance to get any tear out or anything but like that but uh 180 is still kind of a cutting grit anything above that is probably polishing grit so i have another good look at the bowl if everything's all tickity boo then i just carry on sanding until uh whatever i want to get to so this i usually only stand to 320 and of course the drill will give you a really good surface uh power sanding as far as i'm concerned is the only way to go anyway if you're not power sanding give it a try all right so let's cut the groove in this and uh we'll get a coat fish all right so this is new and this is osmo wood wax finish extra thin as you can see i've been playing with it a little bit i'm still kind of working it out but i thought i would show it on this bowl now one of the great things about this finish is that it doesn't yellow things even the general finishes salad bowl finish and the wood bowl finish will yellow uh the wood this wood's kind of yellowy to begin with so it's a little hard to maybe see that but trust me if i was using uh any of the other journal finishes stuff i think that it would probably yellow it a lot more than this now it says to apply it let it sit for 30 minutes come back and um wave off any excess and then you can reapply so i'm going to do that and you know this is kind of an experiment i did do one on some walnuts and with kind of mixed results but we'll see and yes this is food safe says red on the can you can put it on children's toys so if you can put it on children children's toys you sure can put it on a salad bowl there i'm gonna let that sit for a half hour put it in my clean room and then i'll bring us back for the next step all right so for the most part it is pretty much all absorbed into the wood so all i'm going to do is just give it a quick wipe and then i'm going to put another coat of fish on and then i'm going to leave it overnight anyway i'm a little unsure as to if you're supposed to just keep doing this every half hour until you get the finish you want um anyway if you use that prod if you use this product let me know here i mean there's literally nothing on the rag and i get that you know this is not you know this stuff is probably made for furniture and floors not made for you know your typical wooden bowls so that's you know it should be kind of the same principle you would think anyway i do like the fact that it is it seems to be as thin as the general finishes salad bowl finish in the wood bowl finish so that's a bonus it will lay out flat without any streaks i just uh i'm just kind of looking for that shine so anyway we'll see what we got as far as the finish is concerned uh you know if you can just keep recoating every half hour until you get the gloss you want i mean that would be absolutely fantastic not have to wait day after day after day for finishes to cure anyway we'll see what it looks like tomorrow morning see you then all right so the next day this after two coats of finish it really doesn't appear to really even have much of a finish on them to be quite honest with you um it'll be interesting to see how this all works out in the end hopefully it works out anyway all right so we've got our green lechette of course we're going to use the thin star bond to set it of course i've got this paper down to collect any material that spills over so we can reuse it of course our fancy dancing knocking device there that's good there's a little bit of a trough there for the glue to sit in all right let's glue it up there the whole inlay looks wet so we'll let this set up um i'll probably leave this till tomorrow before i send it back but um i'm already liking that green in that hickory that's for sure see you tomorrow all right so it's the next day ca glue is all cured up um i've only done i've done very very little work with the before so not sure how hard it is i'm going to try the carbide on it but we may have to just sand it back so this is the easy woods finisher i i prefer to use these flat type pieces of carbide on the um the rims of my inlays uh they just they're not real grabby and i've got the handle tilted up and they just seem to do a really decent job cutting that inlay material back um and i was actually quite surprised that um this machette actually cut reasonably well i didn't i just had to do a very very small little filling in certain areas other than that it cut it very cleanly i thought i would show this so that's a freshly sharpened gouge and it's not even touching that machete and then you go back to the carbide cutter and look at the difference um you know these these carbide tools are they're absolutely uh needed for these types of inlays anyhow i just kept cutting this back cutting this back until i found that there were some deeper areas that needed to be filled so i decided to stop there and just do a quick little filling so before i do any filling i like to just do a sanding with the 60 grit to make sure that the rim is dead flat um that way when you put the inlay material in it the glue doesn't run to the outside or the inside of the bowl this is after that filling and then i just work my way through the grits to 320 400 i decided to sand the inside and the outside of this bowl because i had a little bit of glue splatter from doing the inlay all right so we're gonna go back with the osmo all right so what i'm going to do is put this in my clean room for a half hour i'll bring it back out wipe it down put another coat on and i might just keep doing that in half hour uh intervals to see if we could build some sort of a film finish here i don't know if it's going to happen with this product i guess the great thing about it is it's very thin so it's penetrated deep into the wood so you know whatever goes over top of this if a wax goes over top of this it probably really won't matter as far as protection is concerned because the osmo will be in the in the pores of the wood preventing it from cracking during washing and that kind of business all right so here's an update on the bowl uh you know um this is eight coats yes i said eight uh you know and that's probably a shine that i could live with but the thing is this is three days after the last coat and it's still kind of sticky and tacky in areas so you know this i don't think this finish was ever meant to be used in this way um and of course that's the osmo clear extra thin um so i think what i'm going to do is just um use maybe some um use the white scotch brite pad that the finest grit and um clean this off and then maybe we'll try some yorkshire grit and uh some hamstar sheen which i have so we can try that see what it looks like a little disappointed i was really hoping that we were going to be able to use that use this as a finish but it's just not working uh i can't you know i can't make a bowl and let it sit around for a week to cure like that's not good business sense i can't do it all right so anyway that's what we're gonna do now you can sort of see the shine kind of disappear a little bit on the inside when the denatured alcohol is applied yorkshire grit i've used it here and there on the channel not very often so you know we might be using a lot more of it in the future um trying to sort out basically a new finish but it did restore the shine to that bowl that's for sure it sure is uh very smooth there's no doubt about that i could see tiny little bubbles i don't know um that must be uncured finish i'm assuming coming to the surface here so we may have to let this sit for yet another day all right so i wasn't going to do this today but you know after i did the back side of the bowl there's nothing coming out of here and you can definitely tell there is a finish on there that's for sure and um so anyway this is uh answer shower sheen see food and toy safe so we're going to give this a go and see what it does for us um i have done it on one piece but it didn't really really do it for me i guess we'll say um it looked alright don't get me wrong and then i put water on it and it the shine kind of went away um so anyway we're gonna try it on this with the osmo and see how it uh how it is one thing that i do know it's really hard actually so you gotta kind of generate a little bit of heat with it now it says to put it on and let it sit for a while again apply evenly a light coat of wax with a soft paper towel allow it to dry a little and then buff my little and somebody else's little is probably different you know what i mean i wish the directions were more like dry to the touch or just slightly tacky you know what anyway then it says to pick up the speed and buff i let it sit a little while i don't know if that was long enough i don't think it was long enough i'm going to just try and spread this out a little more evenly and let it sit for a little while so i've let it sit for five minutes uh this is the buffing wheel uh sorry this is the wax wheel from the be all buffing system so instead of using a cloth to burnish this in and give it a shine i figured i'd use the the wax wheel that comes with the be all buff system because this has carnauba in it as well which is what the the all system is meant to be used for the carnauba wax that they send with the system so i'm just going to buff this out and we'll see what it looks like well i mean it sure looks good i'll get it off and bring it up to the camera if things would stay like this i'd be uh i'd be happy to do this so it's got a nice luster to it there's no doubt about that here's what it is and i mean there's osmo underneath this you can definitely you can definitely tell that there's a finish more than it's not just the the yorkshire grit and then the the wax right all right so actually you know just let this cool down actually it's kind of cool now i'm going to put some water in this and i'm going to swish it around and dump it out and then we'll see if it leaves behind any witness lines anyway i'm just going to switch this around i don't want to do the whole bowl because then we won't be able to see the difference see that water in there i don't know maybe all right i'm just looking to see if there's any noticeable lines where you know the water is intersected with the the wax and it's kind of stripped it off you know what it looks pretty good so maybe the solution is to use the uh the osmo and uh just keep um keep applying it probably about six coats which you could probably easily do in you know a couple of days the way that i was doing it earlier and then put the wax on it that way it's certainly easier to repair or on the other end i can see some spots though down in here i don't know you can see him right a little hard too i mean it's nothing big i mean the great thing is they can get that same wax you know put it on it'll last forever and take a long time to go through a tin of wax like that and just restore the the bowl anyway let me know what you think um so far it's the closest that i've been able to come to for uh to replace the salad bowl finish by journal you know and maybe maybe we could even use a couple coats of the uh the mohawk salad bowl finish and then kind of do the same steps anyway let me know in the comments what you think all right let's have a last little chat about our bowl um it ended up being ten and three quarters by four and a quarter and that green machete is absolutely fantastic hickory is kind of uh well this hickory anyways kind of on the yellowy side of the house i don't know if that's typical of hickory or not and of course we use the extra thin um osmo on this now as far as the finish is concerned um from a production standpoint i can't put finishes on and wait for for a week to cure like that's just i can't do that it's not a good business model uh not for me anyway so um i think next time i'm not gonna i'm not gonna leave it sitting on the surface possibly the last coat and what i want to do next time is basically do four coats basically a half hour to three quarters of an hour between coats and then so you should be able to accomplish that all in one day and then let it sit for a day or two and then we'll check it um i've i've got a different type of osmo coming up as well so we're going to cover that but anyway that's what i want to do with this um with this type of finish i wanna i'm not done with this i haven't given up on it um even if the wax comes off this you can tell the osmo is down in the pores of the wood sealing the bowl up preventing it from cracking so you know this is 100 food safe you can put this right in the sink wash it and dry it and you know if you want it to maintain the wax surface on it then you can buy some of the hamster sheen and there you go i mean you probably won't get it as shiny but it certainly will restore the luster of the bowl but that base protection is there and that's so important for the bowls that i make that i have that type of protection so that people can wash and properly uh get the organic matter out of your bowls because it can go rancid and then you know you can get sick you know it is kind of ironic because you know the finishes that you put on on wooden bowls will probably never send you to the hospital but not washing something properly with soap and water just might it's it's kind of everybody's so worried about the food uh safe finishes where you know essentially all clear finishes when fully cured or food safe everybody's really kind of focused on that when really the focus should be on cleaning the product and having a finish on here that you can clean the product with and not worry about you know cracking anyway let me know in the comments down below what you think um again this was turned in real time sanded with 60 grit in real time and that's hopefully the beginners that are watching and other woodturners maybe you know try some of the techniques that you've seen today so i'm kind of glad that i did this video so anyway again let me know don't forget about our sponsors sandpaper.ca designer epoxy starbond adhesives and of course hunter tool systems all the discount codes are in the description down below so make sure you check them out i'm not exactly sure what we're gonna do next week um i've got another osmo project coming but i don't know if it'll be next week or not anyway come on back for that um hopefully you'll be a good one anyway anytime my videos gets a thumbs up certainly helps with the analytics sharing my videos on your social media platforms is 100 awesome as well and please subscribe alright until the next video take care stay safe don't forget that bell and we'll see you the next one you

Channel: Sprague Woodturning

Views: 40,943

Keywords: Malachite, inlay, resin, woodturning, wood turning, petawawa, ottawa, canada, made in canada, osmo, sandpaper.ca, designer epoxy, hunter tool systems, hickory, sandpaper

Id: ygJ3rIVw-II

Length: 47min 47sec (2867 seconds)

Published: Fri Jul 23 2021