Woodturning | Extremely Hard Maple Burl Bowl

hi welcome back to the shop thanks for stopping by this week's project we're going to turn this maple barrel that i've had since around 1999. it's about 13 inches across the long side it's around 11 across the short side and it is about five inches deep from the face of the bottom it was sealed up with uh with paint of some sort got a face plate mounted to it uh it is extremely hard i broke a screw off actually putting putting the face plate on so i drilled my holes a little bigger for the next two so i have two good screws in it and i'll bring the tail stock up and uh it's going to have a hole in it i'm not going to cast it in resin because it's only going to have i believe this one void in it and i think that'll look okay as it is so i'm going to try and get a true a bowl as i can it's going to be not a natural edge it's going to be a a a cut edge not live so this will be the bottom of the bowl and this will be the top so i'm going to put this on we'll see how we make out [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] all right so i send this up off camera to 800 grit and uh really happy with the with the finish on the outside of it i'm going to put danish oil on this so i'm going to do that when the whole piece is completely turned uh because i i do have some wormholes and stuff in here which add to in my opinion but i don't want to get them wet so they pick up sanding dust and they get trapped in there and they have to work to get them back out uh one thing about wood that's as hard as this is it's tough to turn uh chisel wise it dulls chisels quickly i sharpened a lot of times on the outside of this so i wouldn't have any tear out and the tarot part is is is really good i didn't get very much tarot uh none actually but um it sands super good when it's not hard so i got a really nice nice shine on this there's no finish of any kind on it it's just this is just a natural wood right here now i do have very faint cracks right here and i'm going to see how they pan out once i get down i may wind up taking this bowl just a little shower to get clear of those that's going to take me out of a little bit of this natural defect this right here a natural void it's not a defect i guess in a burl uh i'm scared i'm gonna get down into this and i don't want to break into this so i want to try and stay above it so we'll see what it looks like when i when i get it flipped around i'm going to bring the tail stock up i'm going to put a divot in the bottom of the tenon so that when the time comes to turn the bottom off if i choose to turn it off put it on a jam chuck and turn it off i'll know where center is it makes it a lot easier to line up so just gonna put the tail stock mark on the bottom and if you forget to do that it's not so much fun so i'm going to take this off the faceplate and i'm going to reverse it on the four jaw chuck and i'll bring it back when i've got it flipped around and i'm ready to hollow out the inside all right so we're all turned around here mounted up in the four jaw chuck we're gonna leave the tail stock in as long as i can just to keep things more secure um i do have a screw broken off here so i gotta work around that and it's fairly deep so it's probably in there about an inch and a half so i just gotta be really careful around that but i'm gonna start taking some of the inside out of this now [Music] i'm really close to the bottom of the screw now [Music] all right so i'm going to go just a little bit thinner than this my tail stock's in the way now but i always like to establish this inside inside lip of my bowl while there's lots of meat in here so it doesn't vibrate too much and i'll stay at this until i get a really nice clean cut on this first bit because it's really difficult to go back in afterwards especially in irregular type wood like this [Music] one thing you have to watch out for doing these types of pieces as well there's a very very sharp edge right there that would be just like a knife hitting your hand so you gotta be very careful not to get into that so i am pretty happy with the quality of that cut in the finish so i'm just going to touch up my gouge again i'm going to take this down just a little bit thinner actually i might take a little bit more out of here first so i can get down a little bit deeper again on the next pass [Music] that's a nice pretty nice clean cut very little bit of tear out right there but i don't think it'll get any better than that [Music] [Music] [Music] all right so i've sanded up the lip of this bowl the rim and i've done that before i finish the inside just while it's still nice and stable and when you have a piece like this it kind of presents a safety issue um i would never sand this rim by hand with sandpaper so i used a drill with a sanding pad and you can see this kind of has a bit of a hook out on it here so i turned it down so that so that this isn't going to grab and i angled my sanding pad like away from the uh from the gap so that it rides uh that'll glide over those gaps run the lathe at about 350 rpm but you got to be really careful when there's something like that because that can really that can really cut you open so you just have to be smart when you're doing them but never sand something like that by hand you can use a block of wood with some sandpaper on it and angle it as well but farther your hands are away from that the better i'm getting close to the screw now so i'm going to work away and take a little bit more of this out i'm going to try and park this off [Music] there for free of that [Music] [Music] [Music] this probably seems like an odd way to to take the middle of this bowl by cutting it from the from here down in i do that sometimes in the center this piece of wood particularly likes to be cut that way it's a really clean cut and it's cutting very easily that way as opposed to going across here it doesn't like that nearly as much the trick is to be careful and not come out of your cut and bang into the side because obviously there's a hole here and you don't want to dig up the inside of your bowl so i'm just going to very carefully open this up a little bit then i'll clean up those cuts so i usually don't uh leave the lathe and noise in on my videos because i i don't care for it myself when i'm watching them i know there's lots of people who prefer that over the music but here's next little bit is just going to be a real time actual sound of how hard this wood is with a very sharp gouge [Music] [Music] [Music] all right so i'm pretty happy with that thickness and that's not bad at all now um there's a few tool lines here to take out they certainly look worse than the light than what they actually are they're not that they're not that deep so shouldn't take long i'll start with 80 grit and i'll sand this up and i'll bring you back when i'm going to turn off the bottom [Music] all right so that turned out nice i almost wish i could leave that foot on there but i can't i gotta turn it off okay so we'll get this thing reversed and put it on uh we either put down a face plate or a jam chuck i'm not sure yet which and we'll get this tenon turned off the bottom and get it finished up and get some uh danny shoreline all right so i've got this in my cold jaws here now and uh let's back that off so you can see that so this is in the cole johnson it's it's as big as i can get in them actually um i've got this vacuum chuck but it's the vacuum chuck is just going to get into this hole a little bit so it's not going to work out for me so this is probably the easiest way for me to do it um do add the tail stock up with the brad point out of it just to keep it in there i'm just going to cut make nice slight little cuts to get this down to something small and then i'll uh i'll finish off the dial at the end and hopefully it'll be on here good enough to stand up [Music] so this seems to have a pretty good bite i'm just gonna go nice and easy i'm gonna take a small carbide with a negative break [Music] a little more to the center yet it's not quite flat and i gotta take a little bit here at the edge [Music] [Music] okay there we go a little contour on it that's nice so i'm gonna sand this up and i'll bring you back when i'm over at the laser last week's video i did a review of this otor laser master 2 pro laser engraver still learning how to use it i probably should have gotten this just a little bit darker i should have set the laser setting just a little uh a little higher percentage but i'll leave a link to in the description of that video and there's a link in the description of this video if you're interested in checking one of these out all right got the logo in the bottom now and i'm going to put on a coat a couple coats of danish oil antique danish oil it's just a clear natural now i normally would dump this right in here but i've got obviously holes so i'm going to put it off to the side and put some in work it from there if you're still with me thanks so much for hanging around i really appreciate it thanks again to everyone who subscribed to the channel and to everyone who watches the videos i appreciate that as well if you like what you saw and you haven't subscribed please consider doing so and uh do leave a comment and a thumbs up or a thumbs down that helps a lot all right i'm gonna let that soak in a little bit then i'll wipe it down give it another coat or two and i'll put some pictures up at the end same as usual and we'll see you next time [Music] [Music] you

Channel: The Klondike Craftsman

Views: 4,575

Rating: 4.9625468 out of 5

Keywords: Woodturning, wood turning, Klondike Craftsman, Extremely Hard Maple Burl Bowl, How to turn a bowl, how to turn a burl, burl bowl, Easywood Tools, Danish oil, how to apply Danish oil, Ortur Laser Master 2 Pro, laser logo, laser engraving on bowl, laser engraving

Id: 7AJgELI2FSw

Length: 19min 14sec (1154 seconds)

Published: Mon Sep 27 2021