WIRING THE PID CONTROLLER

hey welcome back to barley and hops we're doing the PID controller the one that we promised that we would do about the wiring process but I wanted to demonstrate this and show it to you can see my lights coming on and off and I've got today what I've got here is a hot mess so what I'm going to do is I'm going to show you exactly what I got going on and what's been happening and you can see my PID controller here there's 76 you see the light come on well that's the PID thinking and going say there it goes off it's it gave it now it's up to 77 see this is my set value at the bottom and this is the perceived value PV at the very top and I've got that running to a kettle here that I've got sitting here with my thermocouple in the very top of it now please don't get confused what you see here is something I've had to adapt for just for the video so you can see it but this is a kettle that's actually a 15 gallon kettle and I've got the heat band on the bottom of it and I've got a small portion of a gin column on here and I did that so that it wouldn't be so tall but you wouldn't you weren't able to see that and then the rest of my hot bass that I call is all these wires going all over the place the plugs to plug it in this is a solid-state relay and everything going on but I wanted to show you this because this is how it works and I could set back now as long as this is set and you'll notice that it keeps coming on it's checking so it's doing a proportional integral and derivative ergo PID it's a PID controller this one only sets to Celsius so I got a set 277 and it took a little while for it to heat up there but by golly when it gets there it just it'll stay there and when it drops down to 76 it comes right back on and stays on you see right now it's it knows that there's a little bit of an adjustment and it's got it rocked out it's level this level bits power out so that's maintaining that temperature now we're going to do the same thing here in a few minutes and I'm going to lay it on this board and I'll show you this to you right now this is the the our KC it's called the Rex C 100 and I'll have this up on the screen as well so you can see just look this is probably the cheapest one on the market it's all but maybe sixteen to twenty three dollars for the kit so if you just type that in PID controller and the recs see one hundred this thing will pop up it's not the best one on the market but it's a very good one and it does exactly what I wanted to do I don't need it to do anything else you'll notice my lights going to stay on now because there it was seventy-six it went back up to 77 alright it comes with a heat sink and the heat sink is for the solid state relay which is really your on/off switch and that's this one is a 40 amp solid state relay and I'll just win you anything less than a 25 but that's what they come with now this one comes with a ke coupler and it's a small K coupler with a with a small probe on the end of it it's about that big it's a small one and as I told you before i order the other ones which are the longer probes and these are the waterproof longer probes but they're still there are k coupler and these couplers come in many many different styles just make sure it's a k coupler one thing you can tell real quickly if it's got two small leads or read in the blue it's probably a k coupler there are other couplers that would have three wires that's not going to work for you because the third wire requires power for it to operate or there's a there's there's another measurement taking place but these are set for the k coupler and these are these are flooded in the market they're probably four or five bucks I don't know so grab you a couple of those and last but not least this thing does come with a set of instructions and these instructions are written here in Chinese and then someone took Chinese and did a literal translation which you know is very hard to read but we're going to try to demystify these for you and show you exactly how to hook this up and how to operate it what I will also do is instead of just having one place to plug in because I like having a light a light kind of gives me an idea you can also watch the light on your solid-state relay every time it comes on the little red line comes on and then it goes off when the relay goes off but I also want to have I'm just going to put one of these in there that's one we'll plug everything to it's just as easy as having one single plug plus not as messy so I'll be with you here in just a few minutes so as I get this all cleared up and cleaned up and we get some wires cut and we're going to get right on it so I'll see you in a few minutes all right welcome back now it's time for us to we're going to wire this thing together and we're going to do it together so that you'll see how that's done I just want to give you the caution if you're not familiar with electricity I caution you not to attempt this this is one of those you know don't do this at home type things but look I can't control what you do at home if you're brave enough and you want to go through it just just if you follow these instructions you should have no problem just be very very careful okay here's what you're going to need we're going to need some and I got a bunch more stuff out here that you absolutely need but I've got it here to show you I've got the 12-gauge and I'm using 12-gauge wire because of the amps that we're going to use with the amperage that we're going to be running through our PID in our solid state relay now let me give you a real quick if we've got a 1500 amp or 1500 watt heater and we divide that by 120 volts that means that it's 12.5 amps that's how you figure that out so if it's a 1500 watt it is 120 volts it's max is going to be 12.5 amps just make sure it as you're on a circuit in most home circuits are on 15 20s or 30s so it's a it could potentially draw 12.5 amps that's why we're using 12-gauge wire okay now we're going to use some other smaller gauge wire when it comes to the relay turning that on turning that off you know things like that but we're going to use the heavy gauge wire especially for our power I'm going to use this a switch and what you're going to see me develop here when I make this I'm put it on this board so it'd be easy to show you but I won't operate it from the board but this is just a demonstration board I'm going to screw this to the board and then we're going to add all of our wires to it and then we're going to try to demystify these instructions for you so without further ado I'm gonna start putting some of this stuff together and I'll tell you what I'm going to put together and then come back I'll have it ready for you I'm going to add the solid state relay to the oh gosh it's a heat sink because these things will get warm so you put a heatsink on it and it dissipates all that heat so I'm going to hook that or I'm going to screw that to that I'm gonna screw that to the wood screw my sock it to the wood I'm gonna leave this one unscrewed so that we can hold it up and show it spin it around and no need to hook this up yet this is the thermocouple that goes to it the sensor so it'll be just a few minutes and I'll be back in we'll get to this all right now here's what we got we've got one power cable which is the plug you plug this one in and what I've done on the other end is I've got a black one with a connector on it I put the green one which is the ground I put the connector on that one now I slice this one just to make it easy later on you'll see why I did that but you can do it there's a a bunch of different techniques I'll put two connectors on the end of that so we're going to place this aside for just a second and show you what else we've got here I've got one more white cable with two connectors on the end and don't worry about the length of these cables on these cables it's just as far as you need to go with whatever you need to do and I've got three black ones and all three of these black ones do have connectors on the ends on both ends as a matter of fact so that weekend that way we can screw them in so without further ado let's put our tools aside and let's get started now the first thing we're going to do is we're going to add power to to this and the easiest thing to do is to start to eliminate the all these wires an easy way to do that take the green one first because it's all by itself and the green one we know is a ground so the ground is going to go onto our ground plug which is located right here on our receptacle it's the ground one that's on the side on the corner now again if you're not familiar with or if you're not comfortable with working with electricity then please just don't do it but it is relatively simple all right we're going to run that green wire down and around like that so it's out of the way all right the next wire that we're going to hook up because we want see is we want power and we're going to control the power through our PID operating our solid state relay turning this on and off with a proportionate amount of power to operate this receptacle and to do that we're going to look on the side and on the side of all of your pids you'll see that diagram and that diagram is not really that difficult to read as a matter of fact you're going to see we've got 1 & 2 which is the end it's the 100 to 240 volts AC that's alternating current pin 1 and pin 2 well pin 1 and pin to correlate to the first two pins pin 1 pin 2 and you'll see above that you'll see 6 and 7 pin 6 and 7 is something that you're not going to use right now but it's there for an alarm and those pins are on the other side 6 & 7 that's the way they've listed that out so it goes 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 then it starts over again 6 7 8 9 10 so the ones we're going to be concerned with right now are going to be pins 1 2 pins 4 & 5 and then the last but not least is the TC thermocouple which is going to be pins 9 and 10 1 2 4 5 9 and 10 are our target pins and you can see that or it's relatively simple straightforward okay let's get our gizmo set here and I've got almost set it down like this so that I've got pins 1 & 2 here pins 4 & 5 right here then I've got 9 and 10 on this side for my thermocouple so starting with pin 1 which is an easy one to start with as a matter of fact we're going to go with to do adding power through all of this to make this work so there's pin 1 there's pin to pin 2 is going to be the white now I've got this connected so I'm gonna run a white wire to pin 2 and once I get it there I'm going to screw it down just to make sure it's nice and secure so that's one of them well the other white wire we're going to go over here to our switch because this is the neutral this will make the connection we're going to run this you can put it on either one of these silver screws it doesn't matter because these silver screws are connected yeah there we go good job they are connected via the small piece of metal right here if you break that metal it would make these two switches separate but since it's connected it doesn't matter which one of these screws you hook it to so I'm hook it to the one on the back because it's just kind of closer alright we're going to screw that up nice and tight okay so that takes care of those now we've still got a black cable in this black cable which is carries the major the main power and the main power source for this this is going to go right here on this number 124 to 380 volts alternating current which is the out that's the number one point but don't screw that down too tight just kind of snug it because we got to put another one on there just a second now in order to operate the PID and this at the same time for the flow of the current we've got to have flow here and we've got to have flow here so that's where a little jumper cable comes in remember I told you not the tightness not too tight now just loosen it a little bit slide your next clip in there oh yeah it'll go there we go and then just cinch it down I keep dropping stuff that's okay good now this wire is just the one black one and that one goes to the number one pin remember we have number one and number two one two four and five are the ones we're working on so here goes number one so we'll place this on the number one pin slide that in there they're a little tight and then cinch that down with a phillips screwdriver so it doesn't go anywhere but we're really getting somewhere now so we've got power to this and we've got power partially through this we're going to do now is we're going to take the power that does finally wind up going to the solid state relay we're going to runner from the solid state relay to the switch or to the receptacle that's easy push another one of your black jumpers on pin number 2 where it says 24 to 380 volts AC alternating current now remember when I told you about the white wires here that go on the silver ones what there are brass colored ones on this side and they're made the same way so in order to energize both of these we would just leave this small nipple in place if we wanted to separate them we could break that but we're not going to do that so it doesn't really matter which one of these screws we put this on because it's going to energize the whole receptacle so I'll put that there that one gets snug down good and tight and what I'm trying to do is I'm trying to put these wires in such a way that it's easy to see once you get a good look at it it's easy to see how it's wired up because it's really really not that difficult now we've only got two wires left and this is going to be the the bottom side of your solid-state relay says 3 - 32 V DC volts direct current there's a negative on the left and a positive on the right it's also marked negative is post 4 positive is post 3 well we're going to take those two we're going to connect in to post 4 and 5 now the 4 is marked positive and 5 is marked negative so what's this we'll go from positive to positive and negative to negative so if we take post 5 which is negative and we connect the wire see that's the end post post 5 we connect that wire we will connect that to the 1 mark negative and lo and behold all this does is send a small voltage which causes this relay to turn on or turn off that's why there's a positive and a negative there we've got one wire left and you can almost figure out where that one goes that probably goes from the positive to the positive so here we go that's the positive pin on the back of your PID controller to the positive pin on your relay so there we go folks we've got pins 1 & 2 pins 4 & 5 the only thing we have left now is the sensor and the sensor goes on pin 9 & 10 in there also polarized so you got to make sure you put them on the right way well look at this and you know what if you hook it up and it doesn't work switch these two wires around these are the thermocouple so now we're going to go and we're going to look for pole 9 and 10 you remember we've got 1 2 4 5 so 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 and 10 unscrew 9 and 10 give yourself a little bit of room so you can slide your connectors under the screws and then we just connect pin 9 whoops yeah Oh sometimes it goes into our little crooked there we go there we go pins 9 and pin 10 that's your thermal couple now what that does is that just measures the resistance in your thermocouple which is translated into a temperature inside your PID there's your thermocouple all right this is what your PID controller looks like all hooked up the only thing we've got left now is to insert this inside the still and set our PID controller so I'll plug it in I'll show you how you set it and then we're off to the races be with you shortly got everything ready now so we're all wired up um I apologize up front if it's taking too long but I want to go through it really slowly so that everybody understood how this was wired and I know I repeated myself over and over again but sometimes that's the only way to to make sure you're clear all right I'm going to plug it up now because this should work and what you should see now is yep our PID is starting to fire up and it's right now sensing and we're sensing 26 degrees but it's set our set values says 100 now this is in Celsius so what we're going to do is I'm just going to show you how to set this real quick and it's relatively easy all you got a set button a left a down and an UP button and if you read through the instructions there's plenty there's a whole bunch of different things you can do with this but it comes preset so that all you got to do is just adjust the temperature hit the set button and then you'll start moving up and down that's 9:10 119 degrees but that's not what we want to do we want to set this let's go back to there we go 90 180 70 we're going to go all the way back to 27 degrees I'm just holding the button down for the down and there were a 30 29 28 27 26 I'll go 27 28 29 30 30 let's go 32 and I hit set that is now set to is it we're sensing 28 degrees and 32 degrees is what we're set at so my solid-state relay is just banging it's just pinging what it's doing is it's looking to find out if any if any power is needed here in order to keep it at at that temperature if you want to reset it at any time while it's an operation just hit the set button and then go up or down arrow so we want to set this down to let's go down to Oh 17 degrees Celsius hit set your say that's it you know sit there and start operating so and of course my solid state relay is off because it knows it's that's way colder than what it needs to be now if there's any questions and remember this is going to be the Rex c100 type that into your web browser and you'll find that but look it's been a pleasure again talking with you it's been a pleasure showing you how this operates all we've got to do now is place this in the top of that still where we normally put the thermometer set our value and allow that to work on its own you have a good day happy brewing and always be safe

Channel: Barley and Hops Brewing

Views: 176,876

Keywords: temperature fine tuning, Wiring the REX C-100, Rec C-100, barleyandhops, intergal and derivative control, wiring instructions for PIDs, Wiring the PID, add a PID controller to your still, Using a PID for distilling, distilling, Using a PID for brewing, control still temperature, guide to wiring a PID, proportionate, barley, and, temperature control, hops, PID controller, contol still head temperature, home

Id: yYyAA6mnTPo

Length: 22min 19sec (1339 seconds)

Published: Mon Apr 25 2016