Wide Boyz Schooled Adam Ondra in the Cellar and on the Grit

uh we need this yeah this thing Yorkshire [Music] oh this is one of the most important ingredients to Yorkshire so Yorkshire is the best yeah Yorkshire Tea is the best just like climbing in UK is the best in Yorkshire [Music] [Laughter] climbing probably I'm not going on the record to say that didn't come out didn't come out of my mouth no we're safe yeah nearly gone yeah yeah so Yorkshire Tea sorted and then we need scones clotted cream Jam that was another special [Music] so first you smell good happy oh it's a good it's a good month that one it's good the next the next important thing with the British tea is to make sure that you put the tea bag in and then the water on top whereas because sometimes when uh if you have a continental tea they'll bring exactly they bring the water and you have to and you have to put the tea bag here as the water's already gone slightly cold so then it's not Brewing quite as well good what's your Brewing time uh I always think a nice starting point for any beginner is around a one and a half minute Brew time yeah I think it allows the flavors to draw out the aroma to develop in the top of the pot and uh just in for a good evening then and it's just enough time to to cut a slice of cake [Music] so nothing down here is constructed very well yeah you totally could make it right and I think it's this philosophy of hard hard climbing is one through hard work and an attitude where you'll just deal with whatever you're given and it see it feels soft to give yourself perfect pads perfect cracks Heating you know all this sort of stuff so when it's harsh it makes you work hard and it creates the right training environment down here and I walk in the store every time and I just know that I'm I'm very very motivated like here is where hard work starts and that creates good climbing yeah so we're at uh ballstones in the Peak District it's a very wintry day the best conditions for grip Stone and we're at a little route called raised roof The Climb is a grade of E7 6C so not like a massive grade but I think the little trophy here is that it's never been unsighted before so we're hoping that Adam is going to uh show us the way make the first on-site foreign [Music] [Music] [Music] and every try you like lose a lot of energy and uh I mean it's such a complex series of moves like you never know like where you want to place your fist and like how deep you want to get and like when to start I don't know it's a big mystery and what's really cool the shape that requires such a complex series of moves [Music] I'm not disappointed at all no no I mean the expectation on this was to not on site it for me personally because the route's been around for multiple decades really good British climbers have tried to on-site it American climbers have tried to on-site it and no one has so I was really pleased that he just persevered with it and started to work out his sequence so that he could actually get up it foreign [Music] [Music] Pete and I have been using the seller for about 13 years or so and we've never really set very many grades down here after 13 years there's a lot of problems circuits projects and you want to give them some kind of difficulty but we always find it very hard to relate what we do in the cellar to the real world and we had this one person that we've had like faith that they are such a good sport climber but also a really good crackliner they would be the answer and that's Adam so we put all our faith and trust in Adam he's the master we will bow to him this is much higher than I expected yes because rather than walking he actually makes programs in the crack this is the kitchen sideboards from the kitchen that we ripped out to run out of the house and we had nothing and we're like right let's just get the kitchen and just put it on the roof and we made the Sentry crack replica also an important thing that we need to tell you about early this cross here is um a DIY mistake and inside here is there's a nail okay okay so you always have to look for the cross and don't don't do this against it yeah because you'll cut yourself uh and nothing's safe as well always presume that something might break all down and uh we've only got old mattresses so we actually set this as a slight replica of change we got inspired like changed like where the [ __ ] there is a mono finger lock hey but there's a drop knee can you see the drop name became here can you see any drop please we saw you drop kneeing and then we were like we need to see that we saw you dropping in a roof no it changes dropping kind of in a corner um we got it wrong I'm I'm genuinely shocked I thought you'd come down here and go this looks just like change yeah has it surprised you yes in a good way I spent half a day cleaning the cellar because I was like we cannot have Adam the seller and it'd be a complete [ __ ] tip you're the only person I've ever cleaned teleports we could just give anything a grade in relation to Andra so oh grades the O grading system starts at zero so if Adam flashes anything this is O zero and we move up the grade so one two three so one will be it will take in one session so that could be second go or it could be 25th go in the session it's always 01 O2 is two sessions oh three three sessions and so on foreign so as soon as he flashes something it's oh zero forever you can never take this away you can't argue with it it's impossible but anything that he comes down here and say has one session doesn't do it we know it's at least O2 there's a lot of weight here on your attempts on these things because everything in the O grades are getting set by you and these are confirmed now so we've graded everything in this cellar in an O grade okay now we're quietly wondering whether you do them and what we think and feet feet are key just keep singing feet on this one you know if you don't really good yeah I wish I had slightly bigger yeah squeeze it squeeze it come on come on come on come on come on come on yeah good good last move come on go big come on come on come on [Applause] [Music] yeah I mean that's just like amazing amazing for us because we've never had anybody come down here who's really been I don't think who's really been quite as psyched as Adam was yesterday I mean people have been sort of like interested but never come with the same uh enthusiasm I think so for us here it's just really cool that's it come on come on spin it back yeah really good come on come on nicely done oh that was good oh that was good that was well good it just has so many years with just me and Pete doing this stuff down here and then to have someone who's good at this style of climbing and get to see them actually trying hard and getting like a good flow and oh it's great nice come on yeah nice beat come on come on that's the first time I've done it I haven't tried it for a while something just broke something just broke yeah I knew no all right and the volume that's why you have to be careful around here excited about the breakage there yeah some things are meant to be some things are meant to be yeah yeah yeah we're gonna go to the highest level of cake Edge that we can which is the mighty British scone so this we have to prepare carefully with two key ingredients one being the highest level of calories that you can possibly fit in a jar of cream and then the other one is a jam so it can be strawberry jam or raspberry jam I actually like to give it a little just a little a little stir because what you'll find is the tea bag sinks to the bottom and you get the sort of flavor also kind of sinks to the bottom and the important thing here is when you pour that you don't drop the lid of the uh the teapot off so you have to hold it and a good poor height good cup of tea that's a lovely pour yeah surprisingly good this is the important sound the and then and then finger underneath and then you're ready little finger out that little finger out as well oh that's a cracking copper [Music] oh because I thought some of your chips looked too old school and you need to be boost your seller so here are the boosters they are actually called boosters I designed them and you are actually the first who will have the pleasure to use them become brilliant oh thanks very much virtual text are they yeah yeah so you can't pinch them yeah and on eventually like you can use them like on the top of the volumes from this side yeah at least like it's holdable as a hold but you can't really hook it come on yes nice come on come on come on top I think you have to be there the other way around come on you have to get their left hand so just try to match yes try to match oh come on that's just this move and it's done well not done but come on come on come on yes yeah [Applause] yeah good come on yep come on come on come on good come on yeah yeah come on Adam come on come on yeah nice good come on come on squeeze squeeze on this last bit fingers yeah Century correction later if you do it 40 times it's as long as the real Century crack so the goal is just to try to do as many times as possible back and forth at least I hope I can do 10. [Music] just just enough ham for your left space with your left foot and you can just put it straight in then straight out again and just slide it in and then slide it straight out yeah that's it yeah good that's item and then again just leave just enough space to build something one foot in and then immediately take it out okay [Music] my shins are hopeless okay oh good effort yeah that's good effort that's good effort it's hard it's very specific though isn't it this is stiff like [Laughter] really good no I [Laughter] was like yeah yeah yeah I would need to like build them there's the power yeah but it was kind of sad because I wanted like I want to try hard I want to [ __ ] like put up the fight but all of a sudden it was like yeah you know it happens even in normal face climbing if you're completely out of shape I am ashamed because it must have looked like I didn't try hard enough [Music] [Applause] [Music] thank you [Music] thank you foreign [Music] [Music] [Music] why should people visit the grip why because what was so good about Adam coming over what was good about having Adam over is mainly the seller the yeah okay what was so good about bringing Adam on the grip Stone uh it was a really good warm-up it was really good warm-up for the seller now what do you think was good about bringing Adam for the Redstone um it's exactly what you said is a good warm-up for the seller no seriously no seriously I actually think it was a really good place to learn some of the techniques that he would use in the cellar you are incredible guys so I think that sums it up pretty much yeah but it was really good having Adam over in the cellar like it was genuinely no yeah it was and I think when he comes back he'll probably head to Cellar yeah I think if he came back to the p district he would want another session in the cellar oh he does yeah like on the messages last night yeah he was dead Keen wasn't he yeah for another sash yeah [Music] thank you foreign [Music]

Channel: Adam Ondra

Views: 235,119

Keywords: Adam Ondra, Climbing, Lead, Bouldering, Rock climbing, vlog, motivation, sport, onthego, Wide Boyz, crack climbing, crag climbing, British, Britain, Grit, extreme sports, onsight

Id: w0ymsYOIe1M

Length: 24min 19sec (1459 seconds)

Published: Mon Sep 04 2023