Welcome back to the Gentleman's Gazette.
In today's video, we'll be discussing the main reasons why, for the most part, men
today have stopped wearing waistcoats. ♪ Gentleman's Gazette theme song ♪ If you're already a fan of classic menswear,
there's a good chance that you already know what a waistcoat or vest is. But, just in case you
don't, here's a brief refresher on the garment. A waistcoat is a garment worn on the torso
that is typically fitted closely to the body. It typically closes with buttons and it can be
either single or double-breasted in configuration, though some models do have three columns of
buttons and are called "triple-breasted." Though, these are really just historical curiosities for
the most part. It has no sleeves and stops at the wearer's waist, which is why it's often called
a "waistcoat," and you may sometimes see the term "weskit," which is a corruption of the word "waistcoat."
It's also commonly called a "vest," but more on that in just a moment. Other typical features include a
back panel in a smoother fabric like silk or rayon and a cinch belt to tighten things at the
back of the waist. With that brief definition of the waistcoat out of the way, then, now
let's learn about its origins in menswear. The history of waistcoats in Western fashion
begins in the 60s--the 1660s that is-- with Charles II and the vest. After such historic
disasters as the Great Plague and the Great Fire of London and as you might well imagine,
people weren't necessarily in such high spirits. And so, the method of dressing loudly and
flamboyantly as the upper classes had been doing around this time was starting to tick a
lot of the common folk off. Essentially, people were pretty sick of seeing the extravagant French
styles in the upper class and the Royal Court. So, it was decided that men should wear clothing
that was more appropriate to the mood of the era and, thus, had a more sober formal appearance.
As a consequence of this, the vest, which was actually borrowed from Persian culture, would be worn across
the mid-section of the body to cover it in a flat sober color. This would replace the copious amounts
of luxurious lace and muslin featured on shirts of that time, which were used to flaunt wealth.
The idea of the vest in England actually came from a similar item worn in the court of Emperor
Shah Abbas when details of the fashions worn there were brought back to England by writer John
Evelyn after his travels in 1666. King Charles II had only recently been restored as England's
monarch and there were already accusations that the English throne was being controlled by the
French. So, the king was keen to distance himself from the flamboyance of the French courts and
look more independently English in his dress. To do this, His Majesty decreed that the vest
garment Evelyn had described would be instituted as proper court dress in England. Samuel Pepys
wrote down the King's Royal Proclamation to his council in his famous diary on the 7th of October
1666, saying, "The King hath yesterday in council declared his resolution of setting a fashion for
clothes which he will never alter. It will be a vest." However, the vest styles worn in 1666 aren't
the same styles we know today. First of all, they were quite long, worn almost down to the knee and
nearly as long as the coats that covered them. Some were sleeveless while others did have sleeves.
And if you think modern waistcoats today have too many buttons, wait until you try to get one
of these on. These vests, though, ushered in the more sober style of independently English dress,
which was also seen as more masculine overall. The Secret Treaty of Dover was signed by both
England and France in 1670, which led to a closer and more cooperative relationship between the
countries and also saw vests worn in both England and France. By the 18th century, the vest had
taken much of Europe by storm, but it was already starting to be worn with more ornate details
and bright colors. As with most things related to clothing, it was already starting to change over
time and another of these changes is that it was shortened. By the 1710s, heavily decorated vests
sat around the thigh. In the Regency Era, the collar stood up around the neck. And, by the 1810s, the vest
had shortened further and was now sitting around the hips. The waistcoat's collar was also shorter
and was now sitting around the neck in a v-shape. Here in the early to mid-19th century is when
the vest began to take on a form similar to what we know today as the length was now sitting
around the waist and the pockets had become smaller and more subtle. By the 1860s, the ditto
sack suit was popular and three-piece ditto suits were all the rage. They even look roughly similar
to the three-piece suits of today. By the 1890s, British writers, journalists, fashion critics,
and tailoring manuals began to favor the word "waistcoat" over "vest." After all, it better described
the waist-length garment that had emerged over the previous centuries. Unsurprisingly, though, Americans
still favored the word "vest," which is why we still have that linguistic difference today. Of course,
this isn't the only such linguistic difference between Brits and Americans. Just look at "pants" and "trousers," "braces" and "suspenders," "chips" and "crisps," "aluminum" and "aluminium," "lever..." [SpongeBob Squarepants Narrator]
Three weeks later. So, whatever you'd like to call it, the waistcoat continued to be worn well into the mid-20th
century, with the 1930s representing its highest possible waistline. So, the vest or waistcoat
was obviously a very popular item as you can see with its longevity over the centuries.
Since King Charles II introduced them in 1666 and all the way up to today, we can see men wearing
waistcoats. They're an invaluable piece of menswear that keeps one looking smart and put together and
also provides extra pockets in case you need to carry more items. The waistcoat continued to be a
mainstay in men's wardrobes into the 1940s. But, at this point, their popularity began to wane and has
been on the wane ever since. So, what happened? When we look back at history, it may be obvious that
we were heading for this. After all, when we look at Edwardian clothing through the lens of today,
we find it to be incredibly ornate and flamboyant. But, compared to the even more ornate fashions
of the 1600s, it could be said to be quite dull. Unsurprisingly then, to take a holistic view of
all of these centuries of development, it's easy to see that menswear has simply been getting more
casual over time. As such, it can seem inevitable that clothing items like hats and waistcoats would
decline in usage over time. We've already covered why it is that men, by and large, stopped wearing
hats. And now, we'll dive into the reasons why the same might be true for waistcoats. We've got five
main reasons for the decline of the vest today, and the first of these is eyewear. Particularly
in the mid-19th century, eyewear had a relatively large role to play in the appeal of the waistcoat.
Prior to this time, eyewear such as quizzing glasses, lorgnettes, the pince-nez, and monocles were
all typically hung by lanyards. Quizzing glasses and lorgnettes were held up to the face when being
used, whereas monocles and pince-nez sit directly on the face. None of these styles attached to the ears,
though. So, for extra security and to prevent loss, they were often kept on lanyards and were
tucked into the upper pockets of the waistcoat. Whether connected with lanyards of string, silk
ribbons, or dedicated eyewear chains, these top pockets were the most common places to keep
eyewear and, as such, waistcoats typically had one or sometimes even two breast pockets. If you
had two pockets, you could keep your eyewear in one and a pencil or other accessory in the other.
And on that topic, you can also check out our video on "10 Obscure Men's Jewelry Items" here. However,
as styles changed and more and more men began wearing spectacles in the mid-20th century, these two
breast pockets were increasingly obsolete and began being left off of many waistcoats. As such,
this element of the waistcoat's utility was fading away. It could, of course, still be used to keep warm
and to keep your pocket watch in, but neither of these would necessarily last all that long either.
Accordingly, our second main reason today for the decline of the vest was the advent of wrist
watches. During and after the first World War, wristwatches became increasingly popular with men
as they were a hands-free timekeeping option. Prior to this though, the pocket watch was the dominant
timepiece and, similarly to how eyewear was carried in the two upper pockets of the waistcoat, the
pocket watch was carried in the lower pockets. The watch itself would be kept in one pocket and
the winding key or another accessory would be kept in the other. But, similarly to what happened with
eyewear, as wrist watches became more popular, men needed fewer waistcoats because they had fewer
pocket watches to keep in them. Even working men, who couldn't necessarily afford a new wristwatch,
were still going without waistcoats more often, which is why you see a separate small pocket in
denim jeans or in overalls. These aren't the only reasons why it was increasingly taken off the list
of essentials for many men, though, which brings us on to our third reason today, changes in fashion.
When summers get hot, it can be tempting to shed layers or at least cut down on the total amount
of fabric worn on one's body. So, with another, shall we say, "adoption" from Persian culture,
British soldiers stationed in India in the 1850s increasingly took to wearing sashes with their
mess uniforms. These sashes, which would come to be called "cummerbunds," eventually made their
way into evening dress attire in the 1870s and even into civilian day wear for a time in the
1890s. As having an uncovered waist was a cultural faux pas of the time, cummerbunds were seen
as a smart alternative to keep a man's waist covered while using less fabric to keep cooler.
What does this have to do with waistcoats then? Simply stated, cummerbunds set the precedent that
wearing a waistcoat wasn't always necessary for keeping your waist covered when there were other
options available. Even as early as the 1860s then, the waistcoat had already lost its status as an
essential item. Similarly, another fashion that hurt the appeal of waistcoats was the belt. Originally,
suspenders or braces were seen as indecent as they made up part of a man's undergarments; with some
styles even attaching directly to the underwear before elastic was commonplace. Because of this,
braces were always worn under the waistcoat. But, in the American West in particular, men were
increasingly wearing belts around their waists to hold items like guns or farming or mining tools
more easily. The work was tough and grueling, so it was a much more casual environment overall where,
generally, anything went. Nobody there had the time, money, ability, or desire to wear the more
flamboyant fashions of the bigger cities. These belts were often worn loosely around the waist of
trousers that were still being held up by braces or were simply being cinched in. These trousers
were constructed in a fishtail style and vests could still be worn. But, round about the 1890s,
belt loops came into fashion and, thus, belts could be inserted into them and then used as the primary
way to hold up the trousers, rendering braces obsolete. The lack of suspenders also meant that
one needn't wear a waistcoat to cover them up. Men were also increasingly finding it unnecessary
to hide the waistbands of their trousers and a belt doesn't harmonize well with a waistcoat
as it can cause unsightly bunching or bulging. This, of course, is one of the listed items in
our somewhat well-known video of "19 Things Men Should Never Wear" and if you haven't seen
it yet, you can check it out here. Of course, the simple look of trousers held up with a belt
still persists to this day. Braces or suspenders are still worn in some circles, of course, but
belts are much more common overall. Next up is our fourth item on the list for today, which is wartime
rationing. One thing that can be a real kick in the trousers for any fashion development is government
intervention. And during World War II, fabric rationing in Britain, one of the world's fashion
leaders, was very strict. Double-breasted suits were banned, lapels were made narrower, pockets were made
less numerous, and, worst of all, turn-ups or cuffs were also banned. Oh, the humanity! Also, the banning
of elastic and zippered flies meant that buttoned flies and braces persisted in Britain. And while
waistcoats and knitted vests were worn during this time, following the war, there was an immediate move
toward the now stylish look of double-breasted suits. While waistcoats had traditionally been
worn under double-breasted suits in pre-war times, many men, following the war, began skipping them
when wearing a double-breasted jacket as the overlapping fabric would usually cover up most of
a waistcoat anyway. By the time the double-breasted craze came to an end in the late 1950s,
the waistcoat had become an optional item for most men and their suits, and also, many people were already
beginning to wear more casual fashions in everyday life anyway. Our fifth and final main reason for
the decline of the vest then is central heating. In the late 1950s, waistcoats saw a revival as
a fashionable item worn by the Teddy Boys, which you can learn more about here. And they were also
worn by older and more conservative men. But, as we mentioned, they were no longer a requirement
and were simply seen as a stylish choice by this time. And as the 1960s progressed, central heating
became cheaper, more widespread, and more modernized. More and more people were beginning to install
central heating units in their homes and offices, which meant that additional layers like knitted
vests, waistcoats, and tank tops were no longer as essential for keeping warm. At least in
terms of practicality and utility, then, this was probably the final nail in the coffin for the
waistcoat. That all brings us up to the present day in which many, if not most, men are going to skip
a waistcoat when buying a suit as a two-piece suit is now the recognized standard in most places.
The waistcoat is still available, of course, but men wearing them today are usually deliberately trying
to achieve a classic or just a more unique look. Unfortunately, some modern waistcoats can be
found made from synthetic fabrics with overly long lengths that can cause curling or puckering
around the hips. With many modern waistcoats being both uncomfortable and unattractive, then, this
could also be why waistcoats and even suits, in general, are increasingly unpopular today as we
discuss in this video. As with many things though, there is an opposite end of this spectrum with
many bespoke tailors today receiving orders from their clients for three-piece suits or even
stylish odd waistcoats made from different fabric. And, of course, waistcoats can still be found as
part of the traditional White Tie dress code and Black Tie can incorporate waistcoats as well.
Naturally, we here at the Gentleman's Gazette are still big fans of the waistcoat as we believe
they can add a lot to the overall appearance of your suit, making you look more put together and
more professional. Not only do they disguise where your shirt and tie meet your trouser waistband,
which can look messy, but they also complement your figure by providing a more slender appearance,
disguising any baggy or wrinkled areas on the shirt, as well as preventing it from untucking,
and holding your tie more firmly in place. They can also be used creatively as odd waistcoats
with a two-piece suit as we mentioned before or to break up looks even further using the Italian
technique of spezzato, which you can learn more about here. So, while there certainly isn't a need
to wear a vest as there was in the 1660s or even as recently as the early 20th century, we still
think that they have a place in modern menswear. And if you know how to incorporate them in your
ensembles, they can look quite stylish. In today's video, I am, of course, wearing a waistcoat and it
is a natural part of this three-piece charcoal gray suit. The suit features a very subtle pattern
and texture in its weave and has notched lapels as does the waistcoat itself. The vest features four
buttons. And while it doesn't have breast pockets, it does have two hip pockets so I've got a silver
pocket watch inserted into them today. Under the suit, I'm wearing a light blue and white Winchester
shirt from Brooks Brothers and you can learn more about this two-toned shirt style here. My shoes are
black single monk straps featuring silver buckles to harmonize with my pocket watch and other
accessories. And speaking of which, other elements I'm wearing today come from Fort Belvedere.
To go with the silver theme, my cufflinks are our platinum-plated sterling silver eagle claw models,
featuring blue lapis lazuli as the stone. My socks are in navy blue to pick up on the blue color feel
and also feature subtle clock patterns in blue and white. My tie is in a color we're calling "butcher blue"
in jacquard woven silk and it features a pattern of brown and white diamonds.
To pick up on this reddish-brown color tone though, I've paired the tie with a vintage silk pocket square
in burgundy and light blue featuring a puppy tooth pattern and a relatively new boutonniere
designed to our shop, which we're calling the chocolate flower, which, again, has burgundy
and brown tones to it. And, for all of the Fort Belvedere accessories I'm wearing in today's video,
take a look at the Fort Belvedere shop here. ♪ Gentleman's Gazette theme song ♪
