What broke on this Commodore 1802 monitor? #repair

well hello everyone and welcome back to adrian's digital basement two yep second channel video today we have a mail call item this one comes from james in lansing michigan and i do know what this is because he clued me in ahead of time this is something that is gonna need a little bit of repair so i figured may as well have it on the channel all right well it's a monitor and there is a letter now the monitor does seem a little worse for wear but that could well be because he had it open and was checking it out there's something in here let's just see what the letter says so the letter from james here it says that uh he used to use this monitor in the early 2000s and it worked fine and now what it does it displays an image only on the middle third of the screen horizontally so i assume that means the vertical deflection is not working says it was given to his brother from uncle in the mid 90s and he played video games snes and ps1 cosmetically it's rough but it worked well the last time he used it he also included some extra goodies that he found cleaning up his office he looks forward to future videos so uh well let's just quickly take a look at what's in this purple case here one of those video games that would normally be in here oh okay we have a looks like an hdmi micro hdmi cable handy rca splitter cable very handy another one that's great some molex splitters pretty sweet this looks like 80 pin ide cable a molex splitter with a bird connector so that's a three and a half inch floppy on it this looks like it's oops or a fan this is a floppy drive cable a single one um it's pretty long though has the twist in it so this would be for three and a half inch drives oh we have okay an rf adapter here for 75 ohm to 300 ohm sony memory stick oh no it's a memory stick duo adapter this is god i used to have a memory stick camera back in the day basically a new uh sony's proprietary memory stick format was like a this size and they made it a later one it was half the size like for a sony psp and this was the adapter you needed to use that another splitter these are always super handy so i really actually do appreciate these more splitters another 75 ohm to 300 ohm adapters the other direction a couple more audio type adapters and then we have some of these uh that's funny ps2 to to usb passive adapters now these work on devices that were designed to use them which is stuff in the like 2000s i think generally mice and keyboards so purple would be keyboard and these would be the mice and we have some quarter inch to 1 8 inch audio adapters so yeah cool a little assortment there this purple insulation is sort of like the stuff that stuart uses nice there's this packing material on the front here to keep the front of the screen safe it definitely looks like there are no screws in this monitor so let's lift this out of here so there it is what this is a commodore 1802 monitor it's in pretty rough shape it's missing the front door entirely i think that was pretty common these broke off has the little um a little what do they call it pegs i guess they're gone and the door is long gone these are the controls obviously it's a 13 inch crt this replaced the commodore 1702 monitor that commodore sold for years with the commodore 64. this was supposed to be the beige color of the 64c and uh well you know this one's a bit yellow let me get this up on the bench it has a fixed power cord the monitor pretty much looked like it survived shipping without any issue i mean i'm assuming oh no okay actually it was screwed together originally and it looks like the standoffs or the screws go into have snapped so i guess it didn't quite survive shipping as well as i thought it had i see the screws are in the holes on both sides here so uh yep that one's there too so all right well anyhow it's dirty yep pretty dirty this monitor basically has the same feature set as the original 1702 it's got the separated luma chroma input and it has composite input and the additional change on this monitor if i turn this around you'll see there's extra jacks down here and that's because the bottom one here is actually a monochrome input it's just basically a higher resolution composite inputs the same resolution as the separated yc input but it's a separate input and it has a green text or it makes the whole screen green when you use it it's unfortunately not sharp enough to really use with 80 columns though there's a switch on the front to select between these three inputs but because the crt in this thing is quite well how we shall we say it um it's low dot pitch i guess it means that 80 column text does not show up that clearly well i think at this point i need to take this thing apart and just check for well any kind of damage from shipping it seemed like it was relatively well packed but the problem is shipping monitors is so difficult you have to put so much packing material around them because when they're this age especially with this much yellowing the plastic is very brittle and just going through regular ups even though the box was not damaged it just basically can destroy monitors and obviously i mean unless james contacts me and tells me that this was already broken i have a feeling it probably was not and that probably happened in shipping so let me just get these bottom screws out while i do that this monitor was made i'm pretty sure by daewoo so it's korean which is fine commodore was a big partner with daewoo for monitors for quite a while i think quite a number of commodore 1084 monitors were also made by daewoo their other partner was phillips of course everyone knows that there's a lot of phillips monitors and then i think the original 1702s at least the ones in north america were made by toshiba if i remember correctly and i think toshiba also made some of the really early 1084s or maybe like the 1080 monitor the original amiga one of the monitor so they're very well made i mean all of the monitors seem to be pretty well made i'll see if i can get this back cover off go all right well inside you can kind of get a glimpse of the more original color it's sort of the same creamy color here as the commodore 64c or you know the amiga stuff like that and there you can see plastic that snapped off it's probably epoxiable i mean this part's still up here so i just have to unscrew this and get some plastic welder and epoxy that back on probably would make that that work again okay well inside the monitor wow things are a lot simpler in here than they are on the commodore 1702 monitor those things have a way bigger pcb just jam-packed with electronics clearly this is later the manufacturing oh let me look at the date on the back cover here does it have a date yes it does november 1986 that's when this thing was made so compared to the 1983 or whenever the 1084 came out a few years later allows for some simplification of things there's some ics over here now there it is daewoo sticker says uh who makes this thing right there it does say like i said it says made in korea on the back may as well pull this pcb out a little bit just to give it a little inspection all right so poking around in here there's tons of electrolytics and you know any of them could be bad causing an issue the funny thing is is there's this large ic right here it's a toshiba ta767op i literally watched this video tonight from jordan pierre about him working on a toshiba whatever black stripe monitor from 1984 and it had vertical deflection issues and i swear that this monitor on jordan's video had that exact same ic on it as this monitor and the issues with deflection were on some small components hanging off that ic all right i just brought up jordan's video again to look at the ic that his set had and it actually was a different one but he was really thrown for a loop because he was looking all over for the vertical drive circuit and he was checking for you know various oscillators and things like that and he didn't realize that this video processing i see i'm in a point of this one i don't know if it's the same here but on his set this large ic was doing video processing and he didn't suspect that this ic had anything to do with the vertical but it did on that set and on this one it may but this here looks like it's horizontal hold control awfully close to this ic so these little components here are likely related to that so i guess what i should do is power this thing on and we'll see what it looks like i'm assuming it's going to have a fault but it could be a bad solder joint could be a bad capacitor pretty positive that the service manual exists online for this which is great because that'll make fixing it a lot easier so yeah let me flip this thing around and um give it a power incidentally just now i found this plastic piece so this obviously broke off the inside somewhere don't know where exactly but uh yeah this was just sort of lying on the bench so a little bit more damage from shipping all right i have the signal generator up on the sony pvm plugged into the composite input i set the switch which is in here now doesn't come through the front anymore to composite and i turn the brightness and contrast all the way down because i'm expecting this to have a messed up picture and if you don't have vertical deflection you shouldn't be running the crt you can easily burn it in i don't know how much james ran it let's see if this goes maybe it's gonna blow there we go didn't blow i made sure the power switch was off first and the power switch is still on the front here we go i'm just gonna step back a little bit okay we have normal high voltage let's see what we see oh yep that's not good collapsed deflection indeed oh and it's quite pink as well that implies that uh crt is pretty worn pretty pretty worn let's see if we're getting anything on here all right so no matter how i switch to the pattern generator it is exactly the same and oh it's changed it was kind of a pink color and now it's not i keep blocking the camera i am sure that looks the same let me just make sure maybe i have it in the wrong input hold on try a different one okay there we go got something going on right okay i had it in the wrong input let's put it back on composite and i need to switch the switch over to there there it is so we do have some color image there uh keep in mind that the brightness contrast are all the way at the minimum and that is not looking so great we're getting definitely some some sync issues there definitely some sync issues now there are some controls in the front for the horizontal and vertical so this there's the that was the vertical hold there and this control is the height control that doesn't seem to be doing anything anyhow enough fiddling around clearly it's not working i'm going to need to flip this on its side and start taking a look at the bottom of the board inspecting for broken solder joints that's the first thing i'm going to do power switch is a little gummed up all right so i have my capacitor esr meter out here got some probes i got a marker and i'm just going to start probing around on here i do have the schematics up on the screen and sure enough this one ic not only has the vertical oscillator stuff in it has horizontal as well so this stuff up here this these components vertical is going through here so i wouldn't be surprised if we're going to find an issue here now there are capacitors marked on here uh does have pluses on the ones that are electrolytic or tantalums that are polarized and i'm just going to start kind of going through here and looking for things that seem weird so you know 8.7 microfarads probably a 10 and i have it one kilohertz and the d value i'm looking for high d values that look wrong and it's just you know there's no science to this well i mean maybe there's a science you just kind of gotta get a feel for it so okay 18 microfarad on that one which seems fine uh this one here c303 it is 800 nano farads that seems like it's open that doesn't seem possible that's really low so i'm gonna put a little marco which was it here 303. okay so here's 303 it's actually one microfarad so that is a thousand nanofarads is a microfarad so that's actually okay close enough so this capacitor right here is 304 and i'm getting 216 nanofarad which seems a little weird but i looked over there and that's actually a tantalum so that's a typical value for a tantalum that's definitely too low to be an electrolytic i'm on 406 and it's reading 460 nanofaras which i thought might be too low it's electrolytic but i found it on the schematics and it is actually correct because it is 0.47 microfarad so so far so good on all the components here at least for the capacitors that's not to say that there's not something shorted here or an open resistor as well it could be all sorts of problems like that so just keep looking here looking around the board this section right here is almost certainly just video processing and that has nothing to do with the sync so i'm not really going to spend a lot of time over here now unfortunately the schematics are like really low quality scans so it's uh not great uh let's see i'm just trying to trace what's happening here that loops around goes to this side really invert amp bias all right yeah vertical height okay that's what that was going to vertical height control okay so for these pots here horizontal position according to the schematics it's the little red multimeter there 20k that's correct vertical holes where is that again super frustrating that this schematic here is so haphazard h position well there's the height vertical height so vertical height's this one should be 10k okay yeah if i turn all the way up we get 10k so that's that is fine no problems with uh that pot there there's also a linearity potentiometer on here that is labeled r 309 and it is v linearity 100k there it is right there let's see what this one measures so we're getting 8k 8.6 let me just fiddle with it twiddle it on the other side here so yeah we're getting 95k okay so that's uh that one's fine as well i mean it kind of was adjusted to that 8.6 actually the fact that i had the reading there i can just set it back to exactly where it was let me get these probes on here i really need to get my clip probes out yeah this is not good holding it okay no good i got to get the clips out unfortunately these clip probes are falling apart they're they're cheap like aliexpress oh they just fall off so crappy yeah they're from aliexpress and they're just junk really really not good quality so that they they do not hold on properly let's try this again all right at least it's holding on enough so i can adjust it back to where it was get it back to the 8.6 so the linearity is connected here to the vertical oscillator i'm looking at the schematics that goes through a resistor which is 39k let me switch back to my other probes all right so this goes to this one 308 which is 39k which is exactly what we're getting that goes to the ic right here and then there's a tantalum it says it is 35.22 microfarad capacitor 304 there it is i'm just going to check that it's not shorted so 10 kilo ohms definitely is not shorted that goes through there is resistor 304 right here that should be 10k that's 10k then it goes down to r3o7 that's right here r307 that one is what is that 8.2 k which that's what it is that looks good then off this pin here there's another capacitor and that one is 2.2 2.2 that looks good that's part of the oscillator so definitely needed to check that sync gate then pin 30 here which is on this side has this capacitor here which is the one i marked with red that looked weird that one is supposed to be 2.2 no wait uh that should be yeah 0.22 micro farad no wait okay here's capacitor 304 which on the schematics is 0.22 which is exactly what we're getting here yeah i'm not really seeing a problem in the vertical sink area of this ic here there's like horizontal output here sink gate we have a sink separator here definitely was sinking though because when i adjusted the horizontal hold it was rolling and then i adjusted it and it kind of locked in it still looks screwy so i'm assuming the problem might be in the drive circuit itself this circuit on this ic here is the gate circuit so this is like what's generating the actual signal that drives the transistor that then drives the vertical i bet you this problem is beyond here somewhere else okay so i'm looking and it looks like the vertical drive makes its way kind of like snakes through this and it goes over here there's a jumper link there it goes down here's 306 306 according to the schematics it's a tantalum 0.22 so let's check to see if it's not shorted nope we're getting 71k and we're getting 0.22 on the capacitance so that is definitely okay i mean tantalums fell short typically all right turns out up here there's another ic i guess it's called ic3o and it's got vertical deflection stuff going on in it pulse width adjuster and voltage booster so i need to check around there as well oh shush who's beeping i don't know maybe it's you no it's this one ic301 is right down here it's sort of like an upright package because it's just a single line of of pins here so we got c308 is electrolytic that hangs off of this here here it is right here 92 micro farad is what i'm measuring and it's 100 yeah and the d value is 0.3 okay that cap is okay and then we have 318 here's a cap 318 this looks like it has something to do it's a very big cap 35 volts 470 it's like it's something to do with the uh deflection if this one's dead then it probably won't have enough stored voltage or no that one's okay that one is okay it's reading 390 microfarad and the d is 0.6 and it's supposed to be 470 but i have it at one kilohertz here so yeah the vertical runs at 60 hertz so if i switch this frequency down to 100 and we measure that again then we're getting 407. i mean it's still kind of low ish but i don't think that's low enough that it's not going to work at all unfortunately one thing that really kind of blows about the schematics too is like a lot of the lines are just like 500 generation copies later so the lines just sort of disappear you have to kind of guess at where they're going and some of these instances just sort of turns to nothing all right down here uh this is the connector that goes to the yoke i'm going to check and yeah i didn't resolder anything because everything actually looks okay on this board there's a pretty large cap here 220 microfarad 25 volts electrolytic and that one we are getting let's keep falling off the leads 202 with a relatively low d so i'm going to say that's fine we have cap 309 which has got to be around here somewhere there's 310 let me just measure that while i see it 100 it's fine here's 309 it's funny it's got minus marked on the board okay so we're getting 10 we're getting 1000 nano farad that cap yep one micro farad 35 volts okay that one's good okay 310 did i just measure that one or is it 310 yeah i think i did that one is supposed to be 470 310 let's make sure i have a good connection on here okay i think this is bad we're only getting 100 microfarad and the d is 4.5 and cap 310 which is definitely one i'm on right now this cap should be 470 microfarad at 35 volts so let me mark that 310. let's just flip the board and i need to see what this actually is because maybe the schematic is not correct nope that is 470 and that is definitely not good okay so i'm gonna pull that out 470 at 35 volts and that is definitely right on the vertical deflection circuit so if that's bad there may not be enough to you know get full deflection and that's sort of what we're seeing right we're seeing kind of a half deflection there so let's get that out of this board it's got some glue holding it down okay just popped right out pretty easy actually oh um i don't think was glue i think that was leakage let me see if i can get a better shot of that there it is that would be gunky leakage all right so uh let's see let's measure this directly on the esr meter here this thing has got some little slots here you can just slot the cap in i don't want to get gunk on the contacts okay here we go because you know sometimes in circuit it doesn't really test you know perfectly well uh yeah i'm getting nothing on it so it appears to be completely dead let's find a replacement okay so i have 470 but 25 volts that's not good enough 270 at 25 volts i should look at my stock i have a i have a stock sheet where i kind of keep track of what i have in stock 560 at 10 clearly that's no good a thousand that's no good i know you can't read it but i am checking my spreadsheet unfortunately all i have in stock is a 470 at 25 volts now if the value is not quite right like say it was a little bit higher that would be okay capacitance but the voltage you gotta at least match um what was on here and this was 35 volts so what else do i have in 35 volts gosh i don't really have i mean i have a thousand but that's quite a bit more so i think i'm gonna have to go to my spare parts boards and pull one off an old crt or something i have a bunch of junk crts let me go do that here's a spare parts board i think this was like a i don't know some kind of a vj monitor that was well used but it does have the exact cap i need it's right here 35 volts 470 so i'll pop this out we'll hope it's good because this if i recall this monitor was very used uh so it's probably baked to some extent as well but i don't have anything else and of course this the whole monitor is kind of baked so let me pop this out and we'll test it first before i pop it in but hopefully it's good beeping everything's beeping okay so this is the one i took out on the left hopefully that focuses it's 35 volts 470 microfarads quite a bit bigger than the original 470 35 volts 105 rated on this one and this one 85c of course let's just pop this in here to this let's see if we get a good reading on it let's see what we get yeah give me a good reading come on there we go one kilohertz we're getting 422 with a nice low d value so that's a good cap let me just clean up the solder on here and then we'll pop that in there and we'll see if this monitor is fixed i have a feeling that's going to do the trick because this is critical component for the vertical deflection and it was dead as a door now clean up these leads a little bit they are a little bent so before i put this in i was going to clean the board can you spot where the issue is with the bad cap yeah right there notice what's near it these power resistors which probably get super hot and it baked the heck out of that now if i were smart i would have just taken a very close look at this board first and noticed all this brown gunk right there which probably could have clued me in that there was an issue so i think a good lesson to learn here is just you know take a look with your eyes first you don't even necessarily need to uh you don't need to use test equipment oh this board is baked yeah it's real crusty in here just use your eyes and i remember that sony tv i had that didn't turn on all the time well i just used my eyes and i found uh you know where it was really really baked looking and i looked at the capacitors near it and i just i did use my tester there this is coming off little by little here and with the tester i was able to identify where's my the alcohol kind of went over here let's keep going here oh it's so gross it actually damaged the pcb there you see that it's actually damaged that corrosion really did a number on this board in fact this power resistor here is effed up as well um i'm gonna get something here to kind of scratch away at it a little bit just try to get some of this gunk off of here gross capacitor grossness yeah it did corrode the lead of this resistor as well look at that look at that nasty now you could be fooled i don't know if the focus is going to work that well because of this wires but this cap has a bunch of white stuff there that's glue that's not leakage so you have to kind of tell the difference and there's some glue um down here see that that's glue so you gotta know what you're looking for and realize that oh i think there's like a hole in the pcb oh no this comes off okay with enough scraping here anyhow um yeah so use your eyes look for things close to hot things um like i should check these capacitors here and here this little one there because those might be bad as well but this one was definitely big look power resistor power resistor there's four resistors it was right in between all of those if i had uh longer leads on the one i'm going to stick in here i'd actually like raise it off the board so it wouldn't be so close to those but this monitor is pretty rough shape anyway so i don't think it's gonna get used you know hundreds of hours or thousands of hours look at the look at this look at the color of that q-tip yik na ste all right well it's definitely cleaner than it was the pcb itself is pretty baked but that's where the cap goes at least i can see the silk screen markings on there so i'm going to put this better bigger cap on here of course it's still going to be kind of close to these resistors so maybe i'll bend them away a little bit i don't know it's not really much i can do so it is marked on the other side which way is plus but there's also a little notch or white thing there that goes towards the negative on the capacitor so i just pop that in there like so and now i just need to reconnect it with some solder just want to make sure it doesn't fall out as i tilt up the board so i'm going to kind of hold on to it with my finger and as i said there's a plus right here on the bottom and it is towards the bottom and the stripe on the cap is towards the top towards this top edge so the polarity is correct just make sure you get that right when you put a cap in there so we're just gonna pop this in here oh and it fell out sheesh so i'm just gonna hold it with my hand while i apply some solder to it there we go and the same thing right here on the other lead oh the board is moving stop moving let me let me get you fixed let me get you in the board stop complaining there you go look at all this brown gunk this is actually the juice and it's really sticky so i think i will uh get the alcohol on here and i'm gonna get a i'm gonna get a paper towel because it left a big brown spot on the anti-static mat here so we'll just put this like this and where's the alcohol sprayed on there it's gonna drain down onto there i'm gonna get a toothbrush scrub that a little bit hello toothbrush you're not for cleaning teeth anymore here for cleaning capacitor juice off circuit boards oh i just this this is disastrously messy yuck now there's a lot of flux on here that's what this is and there's leftover flux that that is from when this board was manufactured oops so i can i'm not going to get all that off i just i want to get the majority of the sticky juice off oh yeah you don't want to wipe your face with that no siree oh it's so horrible wow this is so gross amazing with one cap one bad cap you're so bad look at all this mess okay i'm just gonna blow this off dry off the alcohol a little bit i use this awesome air duster that was sent in by a viewer it's uh esd safe and everything it's just like a vacuum cleaner motor with a nozzle on it it's great instead of using up this kind of stuff i use this sometimes because it's quick but that can almost empty this thing blows that crazy crazy amount of air so i'm just gonna dry this board off here it's gonna blow things everywhere here we go and that is all she wrote there we go not sticky anymore i love it still a bit sticky so there's obviously some gunk left behind on here oh let me just blow this um blow the air on there as well because i see alcohol residue just gonna dry it off okie dokie let's plug this deflection yoke back in i have to unplug it to kind of position the board like that way it is someone tied a knot at the factory so this goes back on like so bada bing bada boom what else did i unplug here i know i unplugged the speaker that doesn't matter where is the speaker oh no it wasn't the speaker oh yes it was the speaker here it is that doesn't need to be connected so the yoke is on high voltage is on let's move the soldering iron wire up here let us grab the composite signal plug this in okay all righty look at this mess look at this mess i made all these caps everywhere i didn't even use them anyways okay well i'm gonna plug this in i'm gonna have it on its side like this but that's totally fine okay mains power is connected so no touchy touchy here we go i hear the deflection what are we gonna see oh yes there it is see if i could turn this okay look at this we have we have full deflection so i can turn the brightness and the contrast back up again there we go nice very nice the tint is way off but that's fine and look at that it looks good i mean i measured those other caps and they actually seemed fine they were daewoo branded everything in here is they were branded including those caps including the bad one all the other ones i measured they all seem pretty good actually and the fact is at least i i'm looking at a very extreme angle because the camera is in the way but it looks generally fine so i think what i need to do is power this off and re-mount the board in here and um yeah let's uh give it a little tune-up once it's back together again all right i'm getting this thing ready for a tune-up before i do that i need to deoxite those pots yeah this thing is such crap look at this it's gonna leak all over the desk and this can is nearly full it's so frustrating do not buy the deoxy d5 with this particular lid there's another one that has like a normal it looks like a spray paint can get that one because that this one is garbage it's just garbage anyhow i'm gonna spray these pots down okay there we go that should do it and i'm going to slide this back in to the monitor okay just make sure everything comes through the front and it did and i'm just going to give it a reach around and i'm going to turn those pots back and forth and you can tell the deox it's in there because it becomes very easy to turn the deoxid5 has like a lubricant in it so you just sort of go back and forth which is what i'm doing on all these pots these have a detent in the middle so you just do that back and forth back and forth back and forth until you feel it turning smoothly i think i forgot to hit the volume yep the volume one is over on the side slide this back out again way over there the power is not applied to the monitor by the way while i'm doing this just by the way so yeah in case you worry that i have my hands near here the power cord is unplugged for my safety and the front switch there's three positions let's move that back and forth okay i think we are good there are three other the adjustments for like the vertical hold and stuff they are recessed so i have to use a screwdriver to turn those but i did hit them with deoxit so i will so those turn a lot easier now i think what i'm going to do to make this easier i'm going to turn this around so the camera can see the screen all right i'm ready for powering this up the power switch is on so here we go into the wall all right do not worry about this this is because i was fiddling with all the controls and this rightmost one was the vertical holes so that got that back on track and then we have vertical height so there it is this is the control i was trying to manipulate before there it is looking good now one thing that's funny about this monitor is the entire picture is sort of shifted down and that's because i think it was really designed to be used with the commodore 64. which if you know that machine its picture is kind of closer to the top of the screen so with a monitor that allows you to move it up and down you definitely have to put it down and the border on the top is a lot thinner than the border on the bottom so this monitor does not have a control for that not that i've seen at least on the inside definitely nothing on the outside here for the position vertically of the picture so yeah as you noticed when i had the height adjusted like this notice we're already seeing a black border there but we're not seeing one on the bottom and i that's pretty much the way this monitor is designed to work and i know this because i actually have another one of these monitors that i just recently got it didn't have any faults and it's exactly the same as this one all right so on the front controls are pretty standard affair we have volume then we have the switch between composite this is the separated you know luma chroma and then there's the monochrome one so there's those three positions we have the tint the color the contrast and the brightness so the brightness is set to the middle right now and the contrast was also in the middle let me turn off the overhead lights so i've done a bunch of videos about adjusting the settings on monitors and you know there's better videos than mine that's for sure but to get the brightness right you want to make sure that you can just see these bars down here they're in the black area and i can see them but they're a little bright so i'd almost turn this down a little bit now there's a sub brightness control on the inside but you know what i don't feel like finding that so i'm just going to turn that down so there we go i turned down the brightness a bit so this is a bit better turn off the contrast it's a well used monitor it's not super bright this is the color control so this is the center detent seems okay and the tint control that seems fine too probably could use a little bit of an adjustment uh volume control is over on the side and then yeah these are these other ones so let's uh switch to some other patterns let's see how the convergence looks it's not too shabby the convergence here i mean it's got a little well i don't even know it's got rotation on it probably not actually it's a little soft in the corner but par for the course this is a 40 column monitor designed for use with like the commodore 64 or things that run at 320 resolution and yeah i mean there you go it is pretty dirty let's put a little windex here on this cloth see what comes off the crt here i think it's going to be pretty dirty yep that's a relatively dirty cloth i mean i've certainly had worse when it comes to monitors that were in far worse shape when it came to the filth factor well on composite this appears to be working perfectly so let me go grab uh commodore 64 and we'll hook up the the separate signal the luma chroma and we'll see if we're getting that nice sharp s-video type signal on this monitor got the zip64 hooked up it's hooked up to the separate inputs not the composite so let's uh swap the switch over to the middle position and power this up oh yeah there we go hey um okay so let's see i can adjust things a little bit the position we're going to move this over and let's shrink down the height there we go look at that yeah see that's what i was talking about it's pretty centered on there with the 64. even though the whole picture is shifted down when you actually look at the regular ntsc color bars it's looking pretty good with this i got the easy flash here let's hear if the sound works let's see if the 8-bit dance party is possible this thing let's see look at that look at that it's looking really good nice and sharp no issues whatsoever in fact i think even the grayscale adjustment which is like the drive controls for the crt they look good so this crt in here is in decent shape not bad at all so we're going to go to adrian's tools and we're going to do 8-bit dance party all right pretty crappy sounding speaker it works but it's probably a little tiny thing the original 1702 had a nice big speaker on the top had much better sound than this monitor does but it works nope yep no issues with the sound i'm sorry i didn't dance to that so this monitor is fixed at least from a deflection standpoint i mean there's still physical problems with it but at least it's working now it was this one capacitor that had leaked all over the board and if i had just used my eyes i could have avoided all of that troubleshooting and just swapped this out or measured it and found that it was bad pop the new one in and then the monitor would be working so some people would have said a recap of the monitor would have fixed it and yes in this case that is true but it's much better to try to figure out and understand what the problem is so that you can actually find the faulty component that was bad not just shotgun the entire monitor like hope to hope a capacitor change is going to fix it but understanding what the fault is meant that if it wasn't a capacitor problem and say it was a open resistor or some other problem like a transistor that had gone short or a diode that had gone short figuring out the circuit and probing around with your multimeter and also like i used the esr meter which incidentally i think was not that expensive i got it from amazon you can figure out the problem and fix the actual fault not just shotgun it and you know to be honest i'm not going to change out the rest of the caps on this monitor they tested fine in circuit and i guess daewoo made good quality caps in 1985 or whatever 86 when this monitor is made and this poor thing was just baked because of those nearby resistors so if you have an 1802 monitor and it doesn't give you full deflection and it does something similar to this or you know say it's rolling over or it's maybe not as small in the middle but it's still not full suspect that this cap which is baked by those resistors is the problem and just swap this one out and feel free to take it off an old dead board like this like this was an old vj monitor that i sent to e-waste the whole monitor went by by except i kept this in my parts bin and you know what i've actually probably pulled other parts off here i don't really remember i mean the pcb is cracked at this point but that doesn't matter the components on here are still good and sure enough fix this monitor right up so if you enjoyed this monitor i mean if you enjoyed this video i'd appreciate a thumbs up on this video definitely i wouldn't mind a sub on this second channel it really helps me out youtube just uh doesn't direct as much traffic to your videos if you don't have as many subscribers it's kind of like a feedback loop of of sorts so i'd appreciate a sub on this channel and check out my main channel if you haven't already adrian's digital basement big thanks to my patreon subscribers i or my patrons that is my supporters on patreon ah look at this i'm totally messing up the outro thanks to my supporters on patreon that's what i'm trying to say really makes a huge difference for me youtube revenue is way down over the summer i don't know what's going on i think it's and now that weather is nice in the northern hemisphere everyone's out and about doing stuff and they're not watching videos anyhow if you enjoyed this repair yes a thumbs up and put your comments down below if you haven't already and yeah that's going to be it i'm going to stop babbling now stay healthy stay safe and i'll see you next time bye bye-bye

Channel: Adrian's Digital Basement ][

Views: 73,436

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Id: efj8YUYUKSw

Length: 49min 3sec (2943 seconds)

Published: Tue Sep 07 2021