Merhaba, I'm Rick Steves,
back with more travels. This time,
we're living the good life -- backgammon,
a nice glass of raki, and the sparkling Mediterranean. It's the best of
Western Turkey. Thanks for joining us. This time,
we're spicing things up, venturing east of Europe for the more exotic charms
of Turkey. I've been traveling here since
my backpacker days and I've enjoyed
seeing the country evolve. Today, Turkey's a mighty nation
whose ancient heritage, Muslim traditions,
and Western ways are coming together beautifully. ♪♪ As we explore
Western Turkey, we'll see magnificent
Roman ruins, relax in ancient pools... munch lunch in
a Turkish pizzeria, learn why dervishes whirl
as they pray... and enjoy
a Mediterranean cruise on a traditional
Turkish gulet, capped with
a refreshing plunge. In the Eastern Mediterranean,
Turkey links Europe with the Middle East
and Asia. Starting in the port
of Kusadasi, we'll explore
ancient Ephesus. Then we'll travel
up to Pamukkale, Aphrodisias, and Konya before
finishing in Antalya. Turkey is where East meets West. For centuries,
a cultural, economic, and religious crossroads, it's long been a land of change. And Kusadasi is a fine example
of the latest change, modern prosperity. The port of Kusadasi is a good low-stress place to
start our Turkish adventure. As if to remind its residents
of a humbler past, colorful fishing boats still
bob in its harbor, cradled in the sweeping curve
of a people-friendly promenade. Kusadasi is booming today in
part because of its foresight in building a fine
cruise port. Nearly every morning
in season, ships carrying
thousands of passengers slip artfully
into harbor. As they disembark, cruisers enjoy
an ambush of hospitality as traditional musicians celebrate their arrival. I find Turkey
every bit as friendly and rich in history
as Greece. The food's great
and it's a good value. While most visitors find it's
a safe and welcoming place, it still feels exotic. In Turkey, some women
may be more comfortable traveling with a partner, but with a spirit
of adventure and applying
your common sense, I think anyone
can find this country as friendly, comfortable,
and as intriguing as I do. Kusadasi is popular
with travelers because it's just a few miles
from the ancient Roman city of Ephesus. While tour buses and taxis
can get you there in a snap, as anywhere in Turkey, I like the excitement
of hopping a local minibus, or "dolmus." A dolmus is kind of a cross
between a taxi and a bus. You hop on one heading
in your general direction, tell them where you're going,
then relax. They'll tell you
when to jump out. Okay, Ephes. Ephes.
Thank you. The ancient home of
the Ephesians is one of the world's
greatest classical sites. The west coast of
what we now call Turkey was once a
cultural heartland of ancient Greece. Ephesus blossomed
as a Greek city in about the 4th
century BC. It was later consumed by
the expanding Roman empire and eventually became
a major Roman city. While the site is vast, only about 15% of this
Greco-Roman metropolis has been excavated. But as Rome fell,
so did Ephesus. Once a thriving seaport, the city was
sacked by barbarians. Eventually its busy port silted
up and it was abandoned. 1,000 years of silt left it
stranded three miles inland from the Aegean coast. The library --
the third-largest of the Roman empire, is a highlight. The facade is striking. Statues of women
celebrating the virtues of learning and wisdom
inspired the citizenry. The city's main street is
lined with buildings grand, even in their
ruined state. This one, known as
Hadrian's Temple, was built in
the second century. Dedicated to
Emperor Hadrian, its decorations are
full of symbolism. To this day, archeologists
debate just what it all means. For extra guidance,
we're joined by my friend Lale Surmen Aran. For years, Lale has led our bus
tour groups around Turkey, and for this itinerary
she's joining us. Huge city -- quarter of
a million people. This was one of
the biggest metropolises of the Roman period. Now, we're in the downtown
and the main street of the city, but the city expanded beyond
this main street on both sides. RICK: So, way up to
the mountain, actually? LALE: On both directions,
way up to the mountains, and housed 250,000 people. All the city was planned. Right underneath us
there was a huge sewer, and there were clay pipes at
either side of the street taking fresh water to the baths
and the fountains. Ah, so they had aqueducts coming
in and powering the whole city. LALE: Yes. See, these were
the public toilets attached to the Roman baths
next door. Everybody sat next to
one another. RICK: So, public toilets
were really public. The terrace houses stretch up
from the city's main drag. These excavations
are incredibly complex, like piecing together
an enormous puzzle. The fragments are
so delicate, the ongoing work is protected
under a roof. The terrace houses give us a
particularly intimate look at Ephesian life
2,000 years ago. Now, how many families would
have lived in this zone? LALE: Only five. -Just five?
-Five families. And these were
huge houses. RICK: This must have been
the elite of Ephesus. LALE: Ultra, ultra rich. Not only for Ephesus, but among the richest
of the world lived in these houses. RICK: So, when you
walk through here, can you imagine what it would
be like to live at that time? Sort of -- it was very luxurious
living in these houses. All houses were arranged
around an atrium, so they had the courtyard
with rooms all around, which were richly decorated with
art on two or three floors. A standard feature
of any Roman city was its theater. To estimate an ancient
city's population, archeologists multiply
the capacity of its theater by ten. As this one holds 25,000, they
figure the city's population was a quarter million. It was here that the apostle
Paul planned to give his talk instructing the Ephesians to
stop worshipping man-made gods. And here in Ephesus,
that god was Artemis. The local craftspeople produced
statues of Artemis like this. It was a big industry -- they exported them
far and wide. When they realized
Paul's message would ruin their businesses,
they started a riot. Imagine this theater filled
with thousands of people all shouting in
one angry voice, "Great is Artemis
of the Ephesians." For his own safety,
Paul had to flee, and he ended up giving
his message by letter. That's why, in the Bible,
we've got Paul's letter to the Ephesians. Back in Kusadasi,
the cruise ships have left and the town is
once again relaxed. We're capping our day with strolling locals
on the harbor front. Like anywhere along
the Mediterranean, the town promenade
is the great equalizer. Everyone is welcome to enjoy
this convivial scene. And when the call to prayer
rings out, I'm reminded that people of all
faiths share the same joys. [Call to prayer] One of the delights of
traveling in Turkey the the cuisine;
seafood is the forte here on the coast, and we're
joined by some local friends for a feast. Traditionally, meals start
with a selection of "meze" -- fun little plates that let you dip into a
variety of taste treats. - Fava bean. -Ah, right, then I
like the eggplant over there. So, I want -- no, no,
yes, yes, yes, yes. When Turks are ready to party,
the local firewater, raki, is often part of the mix. It's an anise flavored drink,
like ouzu, you mix to taste
with water. Very nice.
[Toasting in Turkish] And it goes surprisingly well
with the meze -- octopus salad, Fava beans pureed
with olive oil, zucchini fritters,
and grilled eggplant. And for our main course, the kitchen is preparing
an array of fresh seafood. We've chosen sea bass encased
in salt, as is the tradition, to keep in all
the flavor. Oh, that looks very nice! At the table,
our fish is cracked open and filleted with pride. Mmm! The flavor with
the olive oil and the salt, which keeps the
flavor in. This is excellent. We've a saying in, again,
Aegean region -- if you drink raki
and eat fish, fish in your tummy
reincarnate and swim again. [Laughing] Kusadasi is a practical
springboard for exploring
western Turkey. We're driving up
the Meander Valley famous for its
fertile farmland. We're here in April, and the farmers are busy
with their crops before the stifling heat
of summer hits. And the strawberries
are ripe for picking. Today's Turkish culture is
shaped by a complicated history. Ancient Greece,
and then Rome from the West, swept in and established
a culture that led to
the Byzantine empire. Eventually, Muslim Seljuks
from the east ended Christian
Byzantine rule. Then the Ottomans stormed in
and ruled until World War I, when the father of
modern Turkey, Ataturk, established
the Turkish Republic. While the Republic
is secular, the vast majority of Turks
are Muslim. Turkey is filled with over
75 million people. They come in
many ethnicities, and after thousands of years
of exposure as a crossroads between
Europe and Asia, it's quite a mix. Faces tell the story... The landscapes
of this vast country are as diverse as
the people it supports. Distances are long,
traffic is sparse, and the roads are great. In what seems like
the middle of nowhere, we come to a striking
white hillside. This marks the ancient city,
spa, and necropolis of Hierapolis. In Roman times,
the rich and frail came here to spend their
last years, and to die. We approach today
as visitors always have -- walking through
the evocative tombs, then passing under an
imposing Roman gate where a grand boulevard leads
you to the mineral springs, Famous since
ancient times for its curative waters
and tranquility. Today, the
ever-popular springs in the shadow of
ancient ruins fill a pool littered with
a dreamy assortment of ancient Roman columns
that sparkle beneath the crystal-clear
water. A soak here is like
bathing in hot champagne. Below, the wondrous
white cliffs of Pamukkale create a scenic backdrop
for bathers. The water flowing
over the rocks leave a calcium residue that
whitens and solidifies, creating a wonderland of
pools and terraces that, along with
the commanding view, make an unforgettable
setting. Turkey fills
the Anatolian Peninsula, and Anatolia is peppered with
civilizations long gone. And around here,
important sites are constantly
being unearthed. Aphrodisias is a relatively
recent excavation. The more they dig, the more many archaeologists
believe that Anatolia, rather than Mesopotamia,
further to the east, is the cradle
of our civilization. While this site goes back
much further, what we see today
is ancient Roman -- only about 2,000
years old. This ornate gateway
gives us a sense of the impressive city's
former grandeur. And judging from
its stadium, this town was
really into sports. This is a proper stadium,
one "stadion" long -- that's about
two football fields. Events like
athletic contests, animal fights,
and gladiator sports packed the house. On the road to Konya, we drive
deep into the Taurus Mountains. Get off the main road. Any little town will have the local equivalent of
a pizza joint. It's dinner time
and that's our plan. When you drop into a place
that rarely sees a tourist, you're likely to enjoy a
particularly warm welcome. A Turkish pizza
is called "pide," and that's
what's cooking. [Conversing in Turkish] Diced meat, minced meat, cheese, and eggs. He can either
make plain ones or a combination of these
ingredients. Okay, let's get
a variety. Okay.
[Speaking Turkish] RICK: So, this is
the mixed with the cheese? LALE: Yes, and this is
with the diced meat. The beef. RICK: Oh, and we have
more even. [Speaking Turkish] Ayran -- I love
this stuff. It's a yogurt drink --
it's healthy, it's cheap, it's a fun part of
the pide culture. This is Konya, one of
the most conservative and religious towns
in western Turkey. For many Turks, this town's
a bit too orthodox, but I'm looking for all sides
of Turkey and Konya is
a fascinating stop. This city
of a million people is one of the oldest
in the world, with known settlements
dating back 8,000 years. The city has
an illustrious history. Back in the first century, when
Konya was called Iconium, the apostle Paul visited
several times, and during its heyday
in the 13th century, Konya was the capital of
the Muslim Seljuk empire. Strolling the streets, you
experience the contrasts of the old and the new. It's a university town
with a fine park, ideal for young couples
enjoying a little private time. And wandering into
its back streets, much of the traditional
side of Turkey survives and the orthodoxy of Konya
becomes more apparent. For instance, nearly all
women wear scarves. The huge produce hall is busy
with people picking up locally grown
fruits and vegetables. In the hubbub of
the crowded streets, browsing can be
endlessly entertaining. Boys with trays of tea or chai
scurry from shop to shop. Remember, travelers have
a richer experience when they make a point
to connect. Drink some tea. The barber shop is still
a great way to catch up on
all the gossip. The finale?
Spanking with a flame, leaving you smooth as
you've ever been. And poking into
unusual shops, you'll be surprised at
what you may learn. Turns out this place is a
one-stop shop for shepherds. [Cowbells clanging] So, I'm a shepherd, sitting
here in the elements. Ah, this is my backpack. I have to have a flute.
Perfect. Do you take credit cards? [Lale interpreting] Okay!
It's a good deal. Konya is the home
of Mevlana, also known as Rumi, a 13th-century
Muslim philosopher who preached
a message of love. His tomb is the focus
of many pilgrims visiting from
throughout Islam. Under beautiful domes, the tombs of Mevlana,
his family, and earliest followers
are venerated. Pondering the tomb
of their great teacher, pilgrims remember his message
which focused on connecting the powerful love
of god with us on Earth. Mevlana said,
"I looked for god in all the temples, mosques
and churches, and found him
in my heart." The adjacent museum
explains Mevlana's teaching with a display of significant
writings, books of poetry, and historic
copies of the Koran. Mevlana attempted to distill
the message of Koran into a pure and simple
anthem of love. His teaching was
a mystical interpretation of mainstream Islam, and his followers,
called "dervishes," have dedicated
their lives to living out that Mevlana,
or Rumi, philosophy. [Playing] Mevlana's dervishes
whirl themselves into a meditative trance. While raising one hand
toward heaven, the other toward Earth, they symbolically plant
one foot on the Koran, the Muslim word of God, while the other walks
through all the world. One hand rises up as if to
accept the love of god. The other goes palm down, showering the love of our
creator on all humanity. As he whirls, the dervish
transcends our material world, becoming a conduit between
the love of god and his creation. Wherever you
travel in Turkey, you'll find opportunities
to witness this mesmerizing
form of prayer. It's a good example of
the many facets of Islam -- a powerful religion
that perhaps we can take the initiative
to better understand. A scenic drive south
from Konya takes us over more of
the Taurus Mountains toward the
Mediterranean coast. And sprawling out
from those mountains spreads the metropolis
of Antalya. Antalya, with
two million people, has long been
an important port. Its idyllic harbor was founded
in ancient Roman times. These days it deals mostly in
good living as tourism is the town's
main industry. A once-imposing wall
fortifies the old town. Today, a gate dedicated to
the emperor Hadrian still leads into
a delightful collection of Ottoman era houses that cater to
the tourists -- shops and boutique hotels that
fill the historic center. And above it all is a thriving
modern Turkish city. Its people-friendly
promenade, like so many
public spaces here, comes complete with
the requisite statue of the father of
the Turkish Republic, Ataturk. Strolling here,
it feels to me like anywhere else
in Mediterranean Europe. The people just seem to be
in love with life. A popular excursion
from Antalya is a cruise on a gulet, the traditional
Turkish sailboat. These boats, which are designed
to suit all tastes, keep the harbor busy. After so much
sightseeing, simply luxuriating for
a day at sea puts me truly
on vacation. Meeting the captain and crew,
I know I'm in for a wonderful
and relaxing experience. Sailing away, we marvel at
the dramatic shoreline under snowcapped peaks. Resorts... park-like beaches... and ancient ruins
clinging to cliffs are all tucked into this
rugged yet accessible Riviera playground. While the rowdier party boats
take one side of the bay... we drop the hook
in a more peaceful corner. Ya! Even in April
the water is inviting, and our boat serves as
a handy swimming platform. While the crew is busy
putting together an impressive feast
for lunch, we enjoy an
invigorating swim. Having worked up an appetite,
we're served a feast. Enjoying our meal at sea provides a great chance to
both eat some fresh fish and get to know
the crew. Well-fed, refreshed
from our swim, and peacefully anchored in this
scenic corner of Turkey, we take a moment
to appreciate what traveling
here offers. I hope you've enjoyed our
journey through Western Turkey, with its evocative
ancient sites, beautiful ways of worship,
and vivid traditions. In this complicated corner
of our world, Turkey is an impressive
success story. Join us next time
for more adventures. Until then, I'm Rick Steves
-- keep on travelin'. <i>Gule gule.</i> Hi, I'm Rick Steves, ready to
kick off a new career as a Turkish shepherd.
[Man bleating] ...have dedicated their lives
to living out that Mevlana, or Rumi, philosophy. [Cheering] Like my teeth? Go away!
[Laughing]
