Wago 224 connector block demonstration - great for light fitting installation

so in today's presentation we can look at connections behind me I've simulated two warlike positions position number one has a cable coming in and going out and warlike position number two has just a cable coming in what's the real issues were making those connections joke so we've all been there how many we've gone to put a pool wall light and we find that perhaps it's got a flexible cable coming out of the back and we don't want to be messing around with too much removing that or anything like that maybe the terminals inside the fitting are just not big enough to take this number of connections and so we think right let's bury the connections inside the wall but then we realized that the light fitting has a microscopic baseplate so we can't put a nice big black box in there to make our connections in we put an architrave box in so we've got me the solution but we've worked ourselves into a very tricky and challenging situation we've got to get tiny little screwdriver in in your five unconnected blocks it can be a bit of a challenge Connie so we think the solution to this challenge is the bar go to two for a right okay we've seen the two two ones on the channel before these are two two fours okay so yep physically looking them straight away they're very similar size to what was the old 5 amp connector which we probably the volleyed in the back of that box there's some other differences as well Joe yeah want me to go first gonna do some technical so I'm gonna do some technical stuff a little bit ok the difference between the two is one is white and one is gray Joe you did that without glasses I did much to impress it your turn okay thanks throwing me about Marian so if we look at the two connectors there you can see that one's gray one's white for a reason you look at the differences here we're looking at this side of the connector this is like the input socket yeah so this is where we're going to put our solid conductors that are coming out of the wall and you can see here that we've got in the gray connector we've got a single terminal and so that's just going to take one solid conductor and then on the white connector we've got two terminals in there so we're going to be able to connect into that two solid conductors one in each side of there so if we take the gray one then that would be ideal for this one the point with only one cable shows it open switching line conductor coming in and we put it in what you've called the input side when we turn it around what we got so on the other side we've got what I think of is the output side of the connector so this is a square terminal and we make this connection by squeezing that down putting the Flex in and then opening it up we'll show that in a little bit more detail later on and on this side this is designed to take a strand conductor so this would be the flexible conduct to its going out into our life it's in itself and the white connector you described had two holes and so we've got here - switching line - new - - CPC yeah so ideally suited to take the feed in and the feed out in that side of the connector absolutely and the output side that this position would again go out with a flexible stranded conductor - you like fitting okay there Vargo connectors so they will stay on them the maximum conductor size that they can take which is it absolutely so that's 2.5 millimeters and that's on the stranded side and on the solid side okay so be careful on the next one they will also have a voltage and current rating for Europe on there Joe never captures giving you the Japanese sizes by accident so we've got here 400 volts so that's the voltage rating of the connector block and we've got 24 amps of current which I'm sure you'll agree is more than enough for most lighting circuits I think what we do now is actually we bring the camera in and let's show how versatile the two two fours are and in order to make the connections for these lights let's do it so I'm gonna be connecting the grey versions of the two two fours and just to remind you as always the Fargo connector says on one side of it the amount of insulation to remove it in this case we're removed 10 mil of insulation and we're going to insert first of all the solid conductor into here which is the input effectively that Joe described earlier simple case of just pushing it into position like so and then it's connected won't pull out as always to remove it it's that twist and pull in order to remove it from this connector most is a neutral next so exactly the same as before pushing to the hole like so and then the CPC so we've got all three of our conductors connected in like so and we're now ready to insert the actual flexes in the other side so that would be simulating the actual ball light itself so we're simulating now the Flex that would be connected to your wall light and what we're going to do is simply squeeze here to open up the hole inside it so Oh squeeze down opens up the hole so you can insert your flex again ten million insulation removed it doesn't affect the conductor in the back while squeezing that doesn't mean it's going to pull off in order to remove that it's that twist and pull in in order to get the solid conductor out so we insert like so voila connected and they see the neutral squeeze insert like so release and the CPC squeeze insert and release and now these are simply dressed into the actual box itself and this would simulate the actual wall like so that's it connected Joan your turn next so just to mix it up a little bit Gaza I thought we'd do this year the way around will install the flexible conductors into the connector first and then we'll put them onto the solid so again it's just worth reiterating that we twist the end of the flexible conductors together to make sure that we get a decent connection we capture every single strand of that stranded conductor so we'll squeeze the connector block closed and again just poke that inside and release and you can tell you've got it because this doesn't pop up quite as far as it was in the first place when we connected this you can see that it stays down a little bit so you've got a nice connection so we'll now put the CPC into there as well and then finally it's just a matter of squeezing the connector and popping the line conductor in so now we've got those stranded conductors in we'll hand this over to gas so let's have a look at the two conductor connectors so again two holes this time in this case we'll start with the neutrals we'll just firmly push them into place like so it's one and then the second one in he goes easy as that so they're connected now remember we don't press this in any way that's only for the stranded conductor let's move around and do the line conductors next one like push it in there and then likewise again for the old one so that's connected and then finally the CPC's that's one these are a little bit more difficult because obviously you've got the the sleeve in on the outside it tends to move around so when you did in CPC it's really important we get it positioning like so locks and they can hold really firmly onto the actual conductors before we lock them into position also to note that you can see a testing terminal here so we could test for continuity CPC at this point here meaning that maybe we can pick the law and conductor up here and then maybe the exposed conductive part of the light film if you wanted to as well so there is a testing point within here as well so here at ethics we like products and make electricians life easier and do we believe the two to four from Vargo makes electricians life easier absolutely it takes up a bit less space than the Fargo two to one which is obviously ideal when you're working in very small spaces like we've got here and also just the easy connection just to push fit on one side and a simple sprung connection on the other side and because it's Fargo you know it's making a good quality connection you

Channel: eFIXX

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Id: y98v7NvuCVw

Length: 7min 1sec (421 seconds)

Published: Sun Mar 22 2020