Use Science to Make Kale Taste Delicious | What's Eating Dan?

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- Have you ever looked at a Great Dane and a Chihuahua and marveled at the fact that they're both the same species? And more than that, they're both descendants of wolves. The variety of the species is incredible, and it's a true testament to humans' ability to shape nature into whatever we want it to be. Well, if you think that's cool, wait 'til you hear that the vegetable world has its own wolf-dog situation or whatever you wanna call it. (playful classical music continues) Every brassica that you love or hate to eat is the same species. The original Brassica oleracea is a wild plant that looks like this and goes by the common name wild cabbage. From that one single plant, which is native to parts of Europe, we get broccoli, cauliflower, collard greens, kohlrabi, brussels sprouts, gai lan, kale, broccolini, kalette, and more. "How?" you ask. The simple, patient process of artificial selection. Farmers selected wild cabbage plants with attributes that they wanted, and here's how that went. By selecting for terminal buds, they wended up with cabbage, which is obviously the English bulldog of the brassicas. By selecting for lateral buds, they created brussels sprouts. These guys, they're the French bulldogs of the species. Selecting for stem led to the creation of apple head Chihuahuas, I mean, kohlrabi. Selecting for stems and flowers led to broccoli, which is our verdant poodle. And selecting for flower clusters gave us cauliflower, which is obviously a bichon frise. Finally, selecting for leaves gave us collards, AKA basset hounds, and kale, the Portuguese water dog of the group. Gai lan is clearly an Afghan hound. And then, of course, you can take two of these and make a hybrid. Imagine what would happen if you mixed kale, Portuguese water dog, and brussels sprouts, French bulldog, and now, check out kalette. Am I crazy or does that look a little bit like a Portuguese bulldog? This stuff just works, people. I could honestly do this all day. Broccolini, a hybrid of broccoli and gai lan, is a tall lean greyhound. But I really need to move on. Now, if you haven't seen my cauliflower and brussels sprouts episodes, you're missing out. There's a link below to watch them, so you can do a classic brassica back to back to back, bang, bang, bang. There are many varieties of kale, from curly to colorful, and they all feature a characteristic bittersweet, pungent flavor. How, how that flavor comes to be is pretty interesting. Like onions and garlic, it is only formed when the veggie is sliced, chopped, massaged, or chewed. Here's how that works. When cells in a leaf of kale are intact, an enzyme called myrosinase and a sulfur-containing compound, glucosinolate, are separated from one another. Only when cells are damaged are they able to interact and create isothiocyanates, the compounds responsible for kale's pungency. Now look, we can cook and season kale any way we want, but some seasonings happen directly in the field before the kale is harvested. Kale grown in sulfur-rich soil will have a more intense flavor, while kale that has survived a frost will taste sweeter. How is that possible? Nature's antifreeze. When a kale plant feels the change in temperature in late summer and fall, it starts converting starch to sugar. As we learned when we talked about ice cream, sugar lowers the freezing point of water. Kale floods its fluids with sugar to lower the temperature at which it will freeze. This prevents ice crystal formation that would otherwise cut through cell walls and cause massive damage. The kale survives the frost and we get a sweeter green. The three most common types of kale you're likely to find at the market are green curly leaf, red kale, and lacinato. Lacinato kale, also known as dinosaur kale, Tuscan kale, and by its Italian name, cavelo nero, features thicker, deep green-blue leaves and a earthier flavor. It was first cultivated in Italy over 300 years ago. And it's my top kale choice at the market, especially for braising. But it's pricier than its curly friend, also known as its curl friend. Okay, let's talk kale prep. Kale stems are a lot harder than say Swiss chard stems, so they are normally separated from the leaf and discarded. I find the easiest way to do this is to strip off the leaves with my hands. But you don't need to toss them. You can pickle 'em. These stems were quickly blanched and then combined with a hot brine and left to cool. They're crispy, pickley, and delicious. Okay, so you wanna make kale, a truly hearty tough green, into a salad? Well, you've got a lotta options for turning kale tender. Let's take a visit to the kale spa. The technique that has gotten the most attention and definitely suffered the most teasing and ridicule is massaging. Here, we grab handfuls of kale leaves and physically break down the leaf structure. Think of pre-chewing, but with your hands. It absolutely works and honestly doesn't take that much time and effort, but it's not your only option. We can also let it hang out in the hot tub. Soaking kale in a bath of hot tap water, about 110 to 115 degrees, helps them wilt slightly, creating a tender, yet still crunchy texture. Think of the hot water as a very mild form of blanching. The elevated temperature speeds up enzymes that break down cell walls. The enzyme in question, polygalacturonase, also breaks down cell walls in fruits like tomatoes as they ripen. Todd strikes again. It's dead simple. Just soak stemmed and cut leaves in hot tap water for 10 minutes. Your third option is to let the kale rest. Dressing kale leaves with some of the dressing and refrigerating them for at least 20 minutes or up to overnight has a softening effect. The oil in the dressing wets the waxy, water-repelling surface of the kale leaves, which causes them to soften. This treatment also unlocks make-ahead kale salads. It's one of the few salads that actually improve with age. But no need to stop at just one spa treatment. Treat yourself. You can combine and mix and match. For instance, you can massage the leaves before dressing and resting for even more tender results. Okay, so now we have to talk about order of operations. I'm gonna guess that when you prep kale, you rinse the leaves to get rid of any dirt, cut them to the desired size, massage them, et cetera. Well, I'm here today to tell you that you should rinse after prepping too. We just talked about how damaging cells leads to the creation of pungent isothiocyanates. All of your prep creates more pungency. By rinsing after prepping, you can remove some of it for milder kale leaves that needs less dressing to taste good. Now, if you think you might forget this simple additional step, have no fear. Because I've created an easy to remember jingle. ♪ So you want your kale to taste really great ♪ ♪ You gotta rinse away those isothiocyanates ♪ ♪ For kale that's nice you gotta rinse it twice ♪ Okay, we've got our prepped kale, our brand new kale jingle. It's time to go to the kitchen. First up, that salad we've been talking about. This recipe by "Cook's Illustrated" associate editor Erica Turner is perfect for dinner parties and holiday gatherings because it feels special and is made entirely ahead. It's also perfect for meal prep. Make it, stash it in the fridge, and eat it for days. This recipe combines two spa treatments, massaging and resting. For our dressing, we'll whisk together oil, vinegar, pepper, cardamom, and salt. Then we'll pop our double-washed kale in a large bowl with oil and work it into the leaves. Next, we add grapefruit segments, radishes, parsley, and our vinaigrette and toss to combine. You can let this salad hang at room temperature for three hours or refrigerate for up to two days. When it's time to serve, we'll add candied pepitas for sweet, savory crunch. Mm mm mm, now that is a good salad. This salad is ideal for a party. Party of one. (playful music continues) That salad is great, but my top kale recipe is Annie Petito's roasted kale with garlic, red pepper flakes, and lemon. Roasting is a surprisingly great way to cook these leafy greens. We simply combine oil, lemon zest, garlic, salt, and pepper flakes in a small bowl and then drizzle it over our kale. We'll gently knead and squeeze the kale until the leaves are evenly coated in the mixture and they've started to soften, which only takes about a minute. Now, quick sidebar, while we are massaging, I'm not worried about doing a post-rinse, because the kale is being cooked. That pungency mellows significantly with cooking. Now, we just roast the kale until the leaves are tender and some edges of leaves are crisp and brown. It takes 10 minutes. What makes this dish so special is that it features a huge variety of kale textures in one easy preparation. Leaves closer to the middle of the baking sheet are lusciously soft and tender, while at the edges, we have a mix of delicately crispy bites and sturdier crunchy bites. If you have never cooked kale this way, you have to give it a shot. It's a true crowd pleaser, as there is something for everyone. And honestly, it's great for a crowd of one. And that is why this is how to eat kale. (playful music continues) ♪ For kale that's nice you gotta rinse it twice ♪ Oh, hey. Thank you all so much for watching and listening. I hope that song is stuck in your head for the next 15 years. I know it will be in mine. Now, so here's what I wanna know from all of you. What is your dog's name and breed and which brassica does it look like? Now, I have a cat, so I'm not allowed to play. But I can enjoy this song. ♪ So you want your kale to taste really great ♪ ♪ You gotta rinse away those isothiocyanates ♪ ♪ For kale that's nice you gotta rinse it twice ♪
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Channel: America's Test Kitchen
Views: 217,204
Rating: undefined out of 5
Keywords: whats eating dan, cooks illustrated, americas test kitchen, food science, cooking, science, kale, brassica, dinosaur kale, steamed veggies, soups, braises, sauces, pickled, kale recipes, healthy recipes, winter recipes, salad
Id: 9KAXXfoBmlM
Channel Id: undefined
Length: 8min 44sec (524 seconds)
Published: Fri Jan 13 2023
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