Underpainting: A Step By Step Guide

have you ever wondered what under painting is well in this video I'm going to explain exactly what it is who it's for the benefits of it and if you should do it so let's get right into it okay so one side of my face is going to be for under painting I'm going to do all the underpaint on this side and then on this side you're going to see like the more traditional route which I do all the time loose nothing wrong with either one let me really make sure I make that clear there is no right or wrong way to do this it's going to come down to personal preference and also what look you're going for so if you were someone who is going for a very natural look to their makeup meaning you're not gonna be able to visibly see those layers of bronzer and blush necessarily on your skin like you would in the traditional way when you put it on top of your foundation if you really want that natural like I just have beautiful bone structure that's like just coming through my foundation and just like lit from within I have a little bit of blush coming through but nothing like visibly on top of your skin then this is for you now for my cream bronzer I'm gonna use one of my favorites this is from Lys it's the No Limits cream bronzer in the shade Harmony so we're gonna go right in it's gonna go right on top of my bare skin and my skin of course is prepped with my moisturizer and my sunscreen so it's going to go on top here's something I want to point out that is actually pretty important and that is when you're doing under painting you want to make sure you're using a product that's pigmented enough you're still going to see it Shine through when you put your foundation on top so for that reason I wouldn't recommend more sheer bronzers specifically from like makeup by Mario like the soft sculpt transforming skin enhancer this is a really sheer product this is the kind of product or bronzer that I don't want you to use to under paint with because when you put your foundation on top you're not even going to see it it's too sheer it's going to be washed out by that Foundation now the good thing about under painting let's talk about some pros some of the pros are you don't have to worry so much about the application of it placement yes but when you're blending it out you don't have to worry about how perfect it's looking because the beauty of it is you're going to go on top of it with some foundation and that's going to help to minimize and like erase and hide any like blending mistakes or any application mistake eggs as long as they're not too bad for the most part it's going to really make it look seamless and Flawless I'm gonna apply this on the side of my nose underneath it and then let's just do a little bit on my jaw all right that is the underpainting placement everyone's going to be different it's going to be up to you where you want to see that bone structure and where you want to Contour or minimize or or sculpt even more so this is what I want to do for my skin but it's going to be different for everyone so feel free to tweak the placement as needed for you and your face shape now there's a couple different ways to do under painting you'll see some people do every single color that they're going to do under their makeup meaning like their bronzer and then they do the blush and then you do a highlighter or a color corrector or a concealer in a more brightening shade you'll see them do that all at once I'm not a fan of that method I think it's a little too overwhelming it's a little too daunting to try to blend those three different worlds together and make them look nice underneath your makeup so I like to do them separately that's my tip for under painting and also the brush that you choose to blend out these products is going to be crucial I recommend something with a little bit of an angle this is going to make it really easy and foolproof this is a 109 brush from BK Beauty this is going to make it so so easy and so seamless so I'm going to take that brush and what I like to to do is start with a stippling motion and press it and work it into my skin now this is also where I really really don't recommend that you swipe back and forth as your blending method because you're going to end up working that product just basically off of your skin so I don't want to see any like aggressive blending back and forth because you probably think you're doing the right thing by like really blending it into your skin but you're actually not you're blending it up and off of your skin so you're wasting your time so push-up product in now it's going to look like a lot of product and that's actually the point because this is where you could get away with putting a highly pigmented amount of bronzer or highly pigmented bronzer underneath because the beauty of it is it's going to look so incredibly natural when you go in and put your foundation or your tinted moisturizer on top so I'm going to leave this side right now as is I'm going to go and work in the forehead same method I'm tightly blending this into my forehead focusing it pretty high up because that's where I want to see the most amount of bronzer and Contour seeping through you know placement is going to be personal with anything to do with contouring and bronzer and blush and all those things so these are the areas of my face I like to apply if I'm going to do an under painting technique because for me I have a bigger forehead and I like to kind of bring it down a little bit and minimize it and just make it look a little bit shorter underneath my makeup or just in general and then with my cheek you know I don't have like model cheekbones by any stretch of the imagination so by doing an under painting technique it really is going to give you that bone structure it's going to kind of lay down the foundation of the rest of your makeup to lay on top you really are creating like that depth and that bone structure and just the structure of your face underneath your makeup and when you put your foundation on top it's like this natural way of kind of you're faking it till you make it basically so you're giving this optical illusion of having this bone structure like this chiseled cheek let's just say or like the smaller forehead or like the cut jawline you're giving that illusion of it underneath your makeup and it's going to be very very natural and very undetectable because it's underneath the makeup it's not sitting on top that's the main main takeaway you're going to get from this video is under painting is a natural more undetectable way of wearing your cream bronzer your Contour even your blush or your highlighter it's the most natural way of applying those products and getting a more natural finish versus wearing them on top because when you wear them on top it's quite literally sitting on top of your skin it's staying on top of the foundation it's a lot more visible to the eye it's a lot more visible in person if you're face to face with someone which is you know all the time I'm assuming so just keep that in mind that's gonna be the biggest takeaway of whether or not you choose to underpaint so if that sounds like something that you know you've always wanted to do or achieve with your makeup then under pain is going to be a great option for you and I'll switch to a much smaller brush to blend out the nose now this technique is funny because even if I have if I'm working on a client or a job or I'm not trying to do an under painting technique even if I'm doing a full look I still will always under paint the nose because what I like to do carve out this little Nook of the eye and sculpt this little area and then connect it to the inner part of the brow and it looks messy at first trust me I know once you blend your concealer on top along the sides and straight down the bridge of the nose you get the most perfect natural looking nose Contour of all time so this is something I do regardless of if I'm doing a full face of under painting or if I'm just going to do a full-on Glam where it doesn't matter I always do this technique on my client's noses and sometimes I take the time to do it myself sometimes so again don't get caught up with the blending too much I mean obviously you want it to be roughly Blended you want to be smooth looking but don't get so hung up where like you're looking at it like with with a microscope it's going to be fine when you put your foundation on top so now that's Blended on this is the part where if you're going to do a highlighting effect with your under painting this is when you want to utilize that product for me that product is going to be bright forecasts from the prep and Prime collection from Mac this is also going to double as my color corrector and brightener under my eye as you can see I have a lot of discoloration and redness under my eye so this is going to be like a magic little eraser for those visible veins for that redness and since it's lighter than my skin tone quite obviously it's also going to give me a highlighted effect so perfect for under painting if you're going that route you don't have to do all of these steps you can just utilize the bronzing aspect of under painting and just create that bone structure but here's the thing with makeup when you utilize something that's a contrasting color it's just going to bring that product out and like bring that that effort out even more so if you really want to go for it and you really want to get like the most out of your under painting then do a little bit of highlighting under painting as well to work this in I'm just going to use a new Real Techniques brush this is a zero eight six brush it came in a set and just blend it along the side of the nose again I'm not going to worry too much about how well blended it is because this is also a very thin product and once I get that foundation on top it's just going to melt away trying to avoid this side of my face keep it makeup free for the next demonstration now the highlighting is really where you want to bring out your features underneath your makeup so just with like the bronzer where you want to kind of minimize or like push away and air your face and really like create that shadow and that depth that you may not have you're trying to create that optical illusion of more depth or like a more chiseled defined area of your face highlighting is the opposite where you want to put it in places that you want to bring out even more so you want to bring back blight areas of light to the face so in this case I love to bring some extra light around my nose right here it gets really dark quite obviously like I just said I have dark circles so this is a great tool and technique to utilize to bring some light from within underneath your makeup so now that we did that we're going to go into blush now with under painting with blush you could either do a cream like this one this is from westmin Atelier or you could do a liquid either one is going to work great I'm just gonna grab my my petal blush from westmin Tilly because it's one of my favorites and I'm just gonna get right in there and swipe it onto the apple of my cheek taking another stippling brush I'm going to Pat this in same technique you saw me use earlier I'm just pressing it bouncing it into my skin this is especially where you want to be careful with your blending and you don't want to over blend and overwork the product and you don't want to blend it too much into your bronzer and then create that muddied effect with your two colors so be very careful with your blending in this process but that's done under painting on the side is done this is the finished effect before you go in with your foundation and layer that on Top This is once you have Blended out all of your under painting products and this is the result that you should get roughly now moving on to Foundation this is the final step in the whole under painting process this is where you want to be very mindful of what formula you're going to put on top of your under painting for example this is not where you want to go and put a full coverage foundation on top because you're just going to cover up all of that hard work so if you're someone who loves a full coverage Foundation or needs a full coverage Foundation that under painting is not going to be for you because you're basically going to go in with that full coverage and it's going to cover all that hard work up if you are someone who likes a light coverage Foundation or a light to medium or medium being the maximum or if you just want to use a really small amount of a medium coverage Foundation then this is going to be a great great technique to utilize so with that said I'm going to use a medium coverage this is the Dior backstage face and body but I'm going to use a really small amount the reason why I like this foundation so much I could go on forever about it this is also the newly reformulated one which I love just as much as the old formulation they did a great job of this it's slightly more glowy than the original one just to take note of that but this is a great Foundation because you need a tiny bit and it really Blends so easily on top of your skin so I'm just going to pump a little bit out on my palette and take a small foundation brush this is actually a 110 brush from BK Beauty now again you want to take this into consideration as well you don't want to go in with a huge foundation brush or anything that's too big or too wide because you want to have some more Precision when you're applying your foundation you don't want to just go in and end up accidentally covering up all your hard work that you just spent the time doing so take a small brush you'll have a lot more control now what I like to do is start in the center of my face and work around the areas that I underpainted I like to work around it first deposit most of my foundation and my product in the areas that don't have the under painting applied and then when I get to the point where I have very minimal product on my brush that's when I go over the areas that I've underpainted so I say it's about now I'm just going to lightly tap over the bronzer go straight down my forehead and again you're going to see that I'm not blending back and forth I'm not buffing it I'm not going in a swiping motion because that would just ruin all of that blending and all that application what I am doing is just gently tapping it on and you'll notice too with under painting another great benefit of under painting is once you get all those products underneath and laid down first you end up using so much less Foundation than you typically would I mean it's shocking how little Foundation you need to go over the under painted portion of your face than you typically would need so it's actually a really great perk to under painting as you end up using just so much less product so lightly going over the cheek now I'm going to bring this on top of the jawline to blend that into the rest of my skin you can still see that blush peeking through you can still see that bronzer peeking through but in the most natural subtle way so under painting it's a lot of layers it definitely takes a little bit of patience because you're not just kind of slapping things on and layering them on top you're really being mindful of the placement the blending all the application and you have to have the patience to really take your time blending these products out and creating these thinner layers of foundation on top so that is one side almost finished now I'm going to go back in with more concealer as I normally would and just go over this area under my eye and then this side would be complete for concealer I'm going to use the new house Labs triclone skin tech concealer this is the shade 21 Light medium neutral this is a very full coverage concealer so since I already have a lot of coverage coming from within with that highlighter I'm going to use much less than typically would and the way you typically see me use on my channel I am going to go in this area just a touch more where I need a little more coverage and brightness and taking that small brush again I'm going to tap it in to those areas and that is one side fully done fully under painted and complete okay moving on we're gonna do this side in the more traditional way you see me do all the time um and there's nothing wrong with that too and I really want to make sure I point out same Foundation by the way I want to make sure I really point out that there is no right or wrong not one is better than the other they're both going to look beautiful there's we're not trying to find flaws in either one I'm just trying to point out Simply the difference of under painting versus not under painting and then you can decide from there if it's right for you now here's one thing I need to point out for the more traditional side of applying your foundation and your bronzer and your blush and so forth is you can use any amount of coverage that you want you're not limited to a medium and less you're you can do anything you want you can do to moisturizer medium full coverage you know any formula you want you can do so that is one benefit is you know you can wear any kind of coverage that you want or need without worrying about covering up the under painting still sticking to my Dior backstage face and body just so I can have like that cohesive look plant it all over so underneath my eye Just a Touch onto my jaw onto my chin and this is a 106 from VK Beauty by the way I chose a bigger brush because I'm just going in for it and I'm just going to apply this all over in order to get it done a little bit quicker and be more efficient with my time a bigger brush is going to get this product on and blend it on much quicker than that small brush that I used to overlap my under painting you could also use a sponge to get this done quick obviously whatever your preferred method is okay so blend this on the side of my nose above my lip Okay one side is done I'm gonna let this dry down just a touch for a second and then come back and do all the other steps again now for this method I'm not just going to swipe this onto my skin this is where I completely switch up my techniques I don't personally like to swipe my cream products like my bronze or in my blush directly on top of my Foundation there's room for a lot of error when you do it that way you can lift up the foundation you can really create like a muddied effect so instead I like to take my brush dip in to the product like take my brush and tap it into the product itself get a good amount and then I still like to work it into the top of my hand just to make sure it's nice and Blended so when it hits my skin I don't have to work so hard to blend it on so once that's pre-blended I'm going to just take this and tap it on top of the foundation okay so bronzer is on the same thing I'm just going to tap this along the jawline just sculpting underneath and I'm going to switch my brush to a much smaller one this is also from BK Beauty it's a 205 brush I'll take this same method just dip it into the cream bronzer and then swipe this down along the side of my nose now we can move on to highlighting concealing all those things so I'm going to highlight first and then apply my blush again it's just all going on top no right or wrong way to do this so whatever you choose it is a personal preference they both end up looking beautiful in my opinion so you just you can't go wrong either way you just cannot go wrong same thing same method I'm just going to tap this in just like I did the other side as we're nearing the end of this comparison video you're going to really see that you know one's gonna have definitely more impact so like I said you know this is going to be your more natural side if you really want like that undetectable look to your makeup like meaning you don't look like you have a visible amount of makeup on then you're going to want to underpaint for sure if you want that look you need to underpaint if you love makeup and I'm not saying if you don't love makeup you would do under painting you could love makeup and do either one it doesn't matter but if you like the impact of really seeing your highlighter and your your concealer and your blush and your bronzer and you love that that impact that it gives you of layering it on top then go for the traditional route so it's really going to be a personal preference just like anything with makeup makeup is personal I'm just gonna go back over this with my foundation brush kind of melt these together and now we're gonna move on to blush same blush we use petal same application as before I'm going to take my brush dip it into the product get a good amount pre-blend it and just tap it on and just layer it right on top and again I'm just going to point out when you really look at these two makeup applications you're gonna see a lot of impact on the side but you're not getting that Lit from within that bone structure from within type look so they're very different blending this on a little bit more then we're going to go in with that final step which is the concealer going back to my house labs in the shade 21. let's do a little highlighting here same thing blending on top really getting that high impact for sure with the full coverage concealer lightly blending it just a touch going back to my blush brush making sure there's no separation between the two and they just kind of blend in together and that is two completely different makeup applications like completely different makeup applications now let's take a little step back and let's compare the two and see the overall finish that each one gives you and that completes this video covering all the bases on how to underpaint the pros the cons who it's for who it's not for all these things I really hope this helped to answer any of your questions with under painting I have been asked so many times to do this video so I'm so happy to bring this to you finally if you have any other questions feel free to leave them in the comments below if you like this video and you found it helpful give it a thumbs up subscribe to my YouTube channel and if you like videos like this I have so many more you can check them out right here and I'll see you all soon bye oh

Channel: Makeup By Nikki La Rose

Views: 42,707

Keywords: #underpainting, #howtounderpaint, #underpainting101, #makeuphowto, #makeuptutorial, #makeupartist, #makeup, #contouring, #highlighting, #contourandhighlighting, #hauslabs, #lys, #westmanatelier

Id: VsW5Ttye7YQ

Length: 19min 33sec (1173 seconds)

Published: Sat Sep 23 2023