U-Joint Replacement

[Music] welcome to Tony out of time with Timmy the tool man and Shawn we have a returning guest my buddy Jordan is here today and what we're going to show you how to do is replace a u-joint on a drive shop the vehicle that we're working on is a third generation 4runner there is something unique about the third generation 4runner u-joints that you don't necessarily see on other vehicles the difference that we found is the way the yoke is made the yokes actually taper inboard it's not just a flat even surface on the yoke this taper causes a problem with certain tools you want to use to get this job done part of my research is I looked up other YouTube videos and I saw some techniques that people use one was using a ball joint see press another technique was just using a bench vise and a third technique is you just use a couple sockets and use a hammer and you drive the bearing cups out since I have a OTC ball joint see press I thought that was going to be my go-to tool but the problem is because of the way the yoke is shipped with the taper the seat press doesn't really fix on to the yoke very well and it wants to slip on you so it caused problems with us driving the bearing cups out and also driving the new ones in so Jordan and I already completed this job we were successful replacing the u-joint on his rear drive shaft but it wasn't easy and we decided that we wanted a second try at it so we can show you a more clear-cut way without any guesswork to get the old u-joint out in the new you joint in there is another part of the rear drive shaft known as a double car joint and the opinion with that joint is is that if you have a bad you join in that joint you pretty much just trash the drive shaft and you get another used one or you get maybe an aftermarket one from a place like Tom Woods because Toyota doesn't provide replacement new joints or a replacement ball for the center joint of the card joint they don't offer it so you have to go aftermarket and the problem is it's hard to source quality parts for the u-joints in that Center so most people are of the opinion that you just get rid of the dry shop if you have any problems with that double card joint so we're gonna use some footage from our first time beating and doing this job on Jordans truck and then what we did is we got a donor slip yolk from a guy on t4r org his screen name is sleepy dad and so he was nice enough to send us a slip yolk and a replacement u-joint so we can film this again and show a more clear-cut way to get this job done all right let's get started here is the OEM you join in its box and there's the part number so it looks like we've got a center center part I guess you call this a joke they actually call that the trunnion the trunnion here's the four caps pre-assembly greased I guess and then the four snap rings so you have your four caps and when you look inside that you're gonna see needle bearings around the whole inner diameter of that cap so if some of the needle bearings happen to get displaced and we're down at the bottom of the cap then you'd want to just take a little screwdriver or whatever and push them back against the sidewalls of the cap all right we're ready to get started on this job we have the truck prepped by having the front wheels chalked and then we have the rear end jacked up the axle housing supported on six ton jack stands and we have the parking brake off and we have the transmission in neutral and the reason why we want the parking brake off and the transmission in neutral is so we can rotate the drive shaft to have easier access to all the fourteen millimeter bolts and nuts that hold the drive shaft to the third member we're underneath the truck here's your transfer case and there's that notorious double card enjoy and you'll see that both of the zerk fittings are facing the same direction right now they're facing towards the ground as you travel to the rear of the vehicle you'll notice the rear slip yoke also has the zerk fitting facing the same direction facing towards the ground so going towards the rear of the vehicle and you'll see that the zerk fitting for the slip yoke is facing towards the ground then you when you look inside the yoke at the other zerk fitting for the u-joint it's also facing the same direction this slip yoke and the main propeller shaft or drive shaft are balanced as a unit you could see a weight right here it's important to get everything back in the same orientation before we take this off we're gonna make a match mark on the main propeller shaft and the yoke so we get it back in the same position and then the factory service manual also recommends putting a match mark on the flange of the yoke and the flange of the third member now this connection really doesn't make as big of a difference because it's not part of the balancing of the drive shaft and if you ever updated your third member say you took your third member out to get different gears installed you got a different third member well now it doesn't really matter because your match mark on the old one isn't going to help you out so this match mark connection like I said isn't really a big deal the main one is as you want to get this slip yoke matched up with the propeller shaft the way it came and the way it was balanced the reason why I made mention of the orientation of all the zerk fittings for example you went to a wrecking yard or you pulled off your rear driveshaft and you messed up and you didn't put match marks by simply getting all the zerk fittings in the same orientation you can pretty much guarantee that your driveshaft is going to be rebalanced because Toyota balanced all the drive shafts in the same orientation with all the zerk fittings facing the same way we're gonna use a paint pen to make our match marks on the propeller shaft and the slip yoke so Jordans gonna clean up with some alcohol first so we can have a better chance of being able to make good match marks while we're at it I figured we just mark this this and this all together you'll see he made a match mark from the propeller shaft onto the yoke and then he marked the orientation of everything else he's got a mark here and a mark here so if we line everything up like this after we get the new u-joint in position we'll know we have it all in the right orientation this u-joint isn't bad but it's going bad and the reason that I was able to tell was when I replaced my third member recently I wobbled this around and I found that one of the directions had sort of a catch in it and so I thought proactively I should replace this rear u joint so now we're gonna work on getting the slip you disconnected from the third member they're 14 millimeter bolt and a 14 millimeter nut on the backside so we're gonna utilize my little Dewalt with a 14 millimeter box and wrench and zip these off we're gonna do this one the old-fashioned way my little leg pack gun couldn't get that one so Jordans gonna do it the old-fashioned way with brute strength with it there we go my favorite way is to put these things just offset and then just squeeze them together you can actually get a lot of force that way once you get three of them out before you take the last bolt nut out you got to be thinking of supporting the driveshaft somehow so when you get that bolt out it doesn't come crashing down on your face now a lot of times you take the last bolt out and you still have to tap on the end of the driveshaft to break it free of the third member but you don't want to take a risk on that so before you get your last bolt out tie it up somehow so Jordan just has this strap that he's running from one side of the truck to the other and wrapped around the driveshaft it's going to support it when we take the last bolt out and disconnect the slip yo with the driveshaft supported now he's going to take the last bolt out even though Jordan recently replaced this third member and the driveshaft connection to the third member isn't a connection that's been on there for a long time it still got kind of hooked on there so we're gonna top it with a plastic mallet and break it free so we've got a little separation it's worth noting that the way this mates up there's actually a little centering ring that that mates up into the flange that's what we're trying to get to to pull out a bunch of cord wasn't really strong enough nevermind [Laughter] yeah that's not really doing the job is it baling wire would have been better now that we have the drive shaft supported better with some baling wire up above a little trick is if you take out the zerk fitting for the slip yoke then it will reduce the suction to where you can pull out the slip yoke from the propeller shaft easier so Jordans gonna use a seven millimeter socket with a quarter inch drive ratchet and he's gonna take that zerk fitting out so we can pull the slip yoke off easier there we go okay the zerk fittings out now you could just pull straight backwards on the yoke and separate the two pieces just like so okay you see you have the male splines on the main propeller shaft and then you have the female splines on the slip yoke so now we're gonna get this on our workbench so we have the slip yoke off the vehicle on the workbench and now Joran's going to talk about a few things we noticed here's the phenomenon I noticed last time and this is why we're replacing it in this direction the bearings feel nice and smooth in this direction you can you can see it there's a definite catch in there we've got a full range of motion but there's a weird spot right there so what Jordan was explaining is that in the one direction where felt an odd movement it basically feels like the bearings are dropping into an indentation it should be one continuous fluid smooth feeling when you're working the u-joint back and forth but it obviously has a clunk to it where the bearings drop into like a depression that is a sign that something is definitely wrong so then while we have it on the bench I just wanted to note a few other things here's the grease zerk it's in line with this grease zerk so let's note that for when we put it back together the other thing I wanted to check on I scraped a little bit of the original Road gunk off of these bearing caps just to see where they sit right now to understand generally how it probably needs to look when it goes back together and what I'm noticing is that on the small part the bearing cap is nearly flush with the casting at the end and that's true for this too on the larger portion its inset just a little more and nearly flush on this side and set ten thousandth of an inch maybe so just wanted to note how this all looks and study it before we take it apart now say for instance you're working on a different vehicle you have ones that will have external clips and internal clips if this was an external clip style u-joint you would see a c-clip right here and it would be in an indentation in this yoke where the clips are gonna be on this u joint they're gonna be on the inside so as soon as we clean off all this gunk and grease and dirt we're gonna be able to see where that c-clip is we're gonna clean up all the old grease and dirt so we can expose those c clips there's gonna be one per side so there's gonna be a total of four clips that we have to remove we have the slip you'll cleaned up a bit to where you can now see the C clips a lot easier so we're noting the orientation of some of these clips you can see the open end of the c-clip pointing upward here but then when you look on this opposite side the C clip is facing the other direction that's closed here the open side is on the other side when we look at the C clips for this one right here they decided to put the c-clips both in the same orientation with the open-faced facing the same direction I don't think it matters because all you want is the c-clip in place so it holds the u-joint securely to the yoke we have the slip yolk in the jaws of my bench vise and I have these soft jaws grabbing it the first part we're gonna try to free is this part of the yoke that attaches to the third member the factory service manual says to grab a brass drift and tap on the cap a little bit and I think the reason why they say to do that is so it just takes a little bit of pressure off the c-clip and then it's easier to get the c-clip out with a screwdriver so Joran just using one of my big brass drifts and he's just gonna tap on it fairly lightly not a whole lot of force so it looks like on this edge you can get the screwdriver right on the end of the clip and Hammer it and drive it out okay okay what's certainly spinning is it coming out at all yes it is actually okay spin again coming out so you could see the edge of the clip is starting to come out on the opposite side and when it goes flying you're done now we're gonna flip it over and get the opposite side out if you were in the Rust Belt part of the country and you had a lot of corrosion you might be fighting this a lot more so it probably would be prudent to spray some penetrating oil around the c-clip first before you try to get it free since we're spoiled in California Bay Area we don't have rust issues so it came out without a fight so now Jordan is gonna flip the yoke and we're gonna get the other c-clip out same procedure give it a little knock and then use a screwdriver to drive out the c-clip the c-clip was pointing the different direction so he has to go from this side you could probably grab that there you go go and then that one's out so now we're gonna support the yoke right here in the soft jaws of my vise save for instance if you had the whole big drive shaft or propeller shaft what you don't want to do is squeeze really hard on the drive shaft so if you were gonna stick it into your vise you just want it to barely grab without a lot of pressure so you don't damage the tube or your drive shop we just got the C clips out now we're gonna start pressing the bearing cups out what Jordan and I learned the first time is that you have to be careful how far you drive the bearing cups each bearing cup has to come out its respective side you can't just drive all the way on one side get the cup out on the opposite side and then get this cup out this side they each have to come out their own end when we're driving on this side to get the opposite bearing cup out you could end up driving too far basically the end of the bearing cup will come unhooked from the yoke and the problem that gives you is that now you have to realign this cup in order for it to be driven up this way and that caused us a lot of grief because we at first couldn't get it driving out square and it started scoring up the inner diameter of the yoke and took a little bit of metal off we're gonna be really careful of how far we first drive this direction to where we get the other cup exposed but we don't fully push this bearing Cup out the other side what we're showing here is the shortcomings of using a ball joint see press you can see that we have this side square against the bearing Cup but then when you look on the other side because of the way that the yoke is tapered it's only grabbing on this backside as you start to turn the spindle and press the cups out this thing wants to move on you because it's only connected on one little edge we put like little pry bars and screwdrivers and washers in here to help take up this gap to stabilize the see press but nothing really worked that great we did get it done but it was kind of ugly and so that's why we're just going to abandon the see press idea and use a different technique using a two jaw puller here's a new cup to show us what is actually embedded inside of this yoke here there's a groove for the snap ring so when we put the two jaw puller on either side of this we want to make sure that we don't inadvertently put the jaws where it's going to grab and stop it from pressing outward so we'll set it up and basically move it outward ever so slightly to get the puller to fit the u-joint can't be straight we actually have to access it while it's turned it's kind of a fine thing so you have to have a good set of eyes and really look in there to make sure that the very tips of this two jaw puller aren't going into the groove for the snap ring so it's going to inhibit us driving the cup this way so as we crank on the puller the yoke is going to come up this way exposing the bearing pushing that bearing out that side so that we can grab it and we just want to make sure as we push this bearing cap it doesn't go so far that it loses this alignment we have the two jaw puller in place and now Jordan is going to tighten down on the spindle we're gonna start driving the cups out it's worth noting that at no time does the puller load up like you're popping a ball joint it's been just a steady pressure it hasn't you know loaded up like it's gonna go bang okay we don't want to go too far so we're gonna take a measurement so we're holding up a new bearing top to the yoke and we're just kind of getting an eyeball of how much of the bearing Cup is still in the yoke and there's still a decent amount in there to be safe so we're getting pretty close I think we can maybe go another turn or so you can see that side is just little less than an eighth of an inch from basically being totally exposed got a sucker let me see I think we have enough to grab on that side it's still in the yoke on this side about an eighth of an inch and now we're gonna flip it around and try to get that Cup out up on the opposite side we don't want this bearing race to press any further lest it lose its alignment well we realized we could do is by bearing against this yoke we can push the spider upwards in order to force this out while leaving that one intact because the spider will slip out of it so we're gonna put this here these are aluminum jaws so that we don't Mar the yoke and we found twenty nine millimeter socket to fit over this pretty well we're going to hit this thereby forcing that bearing upwards yep making lots of progress and let me just make sure nothing wrong is happening to this one yep you can actually see how the spider has started to separate out of that one I'm not hitting this with a lot of force we use the puller to get it started and now we're helping it along caveman method see how it's bottom now right there oh yes any further yep it's bottomed out good call Tim so this yoke is bottomed out on this bearing Cup so we can't go any further so after getting the bearing cup exposed as far as we could we tried the usual method of grabbing it with a channel locks we used a little bit of heat with a butane torch on the yoke to hopefully expand the yoke a little bit in order to get the bearing cup out easier but neither of those techniques did anything for us so Jordan came up with a good idea he figured if we ground down a flat section on opposing sides of a bearing cup using my bench grinder we could then sandwich the bearing cup in my bench vise to where it could hold it really firmly and then we could twist the yoke and basically force the bearing Cup out of the yoke we were able to get the bearing Cup in a better position a little bit closer to the wheel with getting these guards out of the way so we just removed the guard on this old craftsman bench grinder and we were able to get the cup in a better position to grind a nice flat section on opposing sides after grinding opposing flat edges on the bearing Cup now we have it captured and my bench vise so we can get a really good grip at it and we're gonna twist it and try to slide that Cup out just by twisting you can't get the bearing Cup out you need to twist and also give a little pressure to be able to displace the bearing cup out of there so Jordan has a pry bar prying up against the top of my bench vise and putting pressure on the yoke while twisting and this is the way we're going to get this Cup out we're actually going to do a partnership here it wasn't pretty but we got it done so let's show you how we did this we ground down a pretty good flat section on both sides to where basically you can either get a channel locks or the way we did it put it in a device so it grabs it really firmly it takes two people so Jordan was twisting the whole joint while I was applying some upward pressure on the yoke to get the bearing Cup to slide out of the yoke so this is the way we did it we've got our two jaw puller in place again and what we're gonna try to do is press against the spider to pull this yoke upwards thereby pushing that cap out that side yeah so we clearly had enough meat left over for alignment purposes we can take this until it bottoms just now once this gets far enough we have enough room to just lever it out now we don't have to go through the pain of grinding slots and everything we just press it out now we have the yoke supported again in the two jaws of the bench vise and we're just going to use a punch to finish pushing this through get out of there this was actually a brass drift that Jordan used but you could use a punch whatever because you don't care about the bearing cup anymore you're replacing it so we now have the first yoke off and now we're going to work on the next one we have the same setup again we have the two jaw puller and we're only going to drive this Cup as far as we feel comfortable so we don't displace it out of the yoke and we have movements let's not go too far now yep we're taking a measurement just seeing how much of that bearing cup is still in there and go another turn or so okay let's stop here and now we can use our previous trick now we don't have a yoke attached but we can bear down on the two sides of this to force this one even further so this time because this other yoke is out of the way we actually have the trunnion being supported on either side of the bench vise with again the aluminum jaws and he's gonna put the socket on top and pound down on the yoke to get this cup out a little bit further now it's bottomed out alright and look we actually were able to get that considerably further so because the spider or trunnion here is free of these bearings we were able to force this side a lot further through no need for the grinder or any of those special tricks it just comes right out and now we're just going to use our puller again to force it that way two jaw puller we're gonna drive this as far as we can and then we'll be able to get this trunnion all the way out okay now our fighter yoke should just come right on out the trunnion don't be given a different name sorry sorry it's oh I think it's also called a spider Oh a spider okay same technique capture the yoke by the jaws of the bench vise he's gonna use the brass drift and he's gonna knock that Cup out and there it is we have the u-joint all the way out in order to prepare the yoke for the new u-joint I'm just taking some fairly fine steel wool and I'm just cleaning out the inside of the yoke really well and there's not really any corrosion to speak of I'm just getting the surface nice and smooth and free of any little grit in there I'm gonna do this with both yokes when ordering parts for myself I found there was some confusion about what was the right part for the rear you joint in this case now I have two different ones to look at the difference between these two part numbers is just in the in Suffolk's here one is a seventy at one is a sixty I used a seventy for mine and it worked fine so we're suspicious that the sixty might not be quite the right thing what we have here in front of us this is the sixty all put together on the face of it it looks very much the same well we notice the only difference is that the cups are deeper in the 60 then the seventy so if you compare it the 60 on the left you can see is about a sixteenth of an inch longer all the diameters appear to be about the same other features are the same and then if we compare with the ones that we just took apart they match in length with the seventy part number also you'll note the sixty has just a flat end of the cap the 70 has a divot the parts we removed also have a divot although of a slightly different size so we are going to utilize this number 70 kit which has the slightly shorter caps so now we have the larger yoke secured in the vise and we have the trunnion the zerks lineup and the zerk goes on the inside towards the big yoke so we're gonna get it into place like this and what we want to be very careful of is as we bring the two caps in we want to make sure that it's always aligned with the needle bearings if the shaft goes in sideways it could very easily tip when these needle bearings out and then we would have to go in and fix it so we're gonna start it on one side back the trunnion away push this in a little bit see there's a relief now it's starting to actually have a little bit of friction and then I'm gonna put this in carefully there we go now same thing here get it started and then there we go see it's moving freely which means it has some contact with both sets of needle bearings I'm just gonna pretend I'm he man here that's what we want the vise to do so I can't do that if you slide the bearing cups onto the trunnion and you get some type of resistance that means one of the needle bearings probably displaced so don't force it pull the cup back off get in there with a little screwdriver and then just push the needle bearing back against the wall of the bearing cup and then try again then we're gonna use our vice to basically press these two together make sure this guy stays in the middle keeping our needle bearings aligned we're just gonna use the vise as a technique to get these started and as I proceed I'm gonna make sure that this thing still turns smoothly and slides a little bit in and out one is preferring the other now this has bottom against the yoke so we can keep going and now this side is gonna press in stop there this side bottomed out for us this other side is starting to load up we think that we're putting a lot of pressure with the trunnion against this bearing Cup so instead of continually trying to do it with the vise we're gonna transition to the two jaw puller and then drive this Cup where we expose the slot for the c-clip and then we're gonna flip it over and do the same thing and expose the c-clip on this I utilize the two jaw puller we have our puller grabbing the yoke not the bottom side of the bearing that would not be good and now we are going to start pressing the bearing cap in moving very smoothly the way that the old one was set up the face of this bearing cap was almost even slightly inset to this surface of the yoke so we'll kind of use that as a reference as we go we want to look for that snap ring slot to start to show up there it is okay now let's get one of our new snap rings your kit will come with four new snap rings don't use your old ones it looks like we're almost there you can use it as a little feeler gauge there we're there I'm actually gonna go just the tiniest bit there okay now that this snap ring slot is exposed we're gonna pop the snap ring in they're so Jordan just tapped on it with the brass hammer now he's gonna finish driving at home with a drift and it snapped in place now we're gonna flip the yoke around and drive the other bearing Cup to where we exposed the groove of the c-clip and get that c-clip in and quick sanity check still moving smoothly if it any point it binds really badly it's okay if it feels a little grainy but if it binds and you can't move it at all then there's something's not right now we're driving this Cup in we're gonna use one of our new C clips as a feeler gauge to see how far we need to go needs to go a little further there we go little more yeah you're right good okay remember we have to match up our pink color so we have the red paint on this side and the red paint here same process where we get this over the trunnion get this just started with a bit of friction making sure that it's captured on the needle bearings I'm going to slide this back a little ways so that I'm able to kind of get this on to the shaft before pressing it in there we go so we're on both and it's rotating so our needle bearings are in place so now we will use the bench vise again to squeeze these together to get them started a little motion from both of them making sure that it's still free if you tilt it the other way you can get further because now you're bottoming out here so if we uh turn it upside down you can get a little three that's right just on two about two-thirds of the face of those bearing caps okay that sides bottom now yeah so we'll stop with that whenever you start to encounter some force we'll stop using the Vice and go to the puller we have the u-joint tipped in both directions to make room for our two jaw puller and we're going to proceed to press this bearing cap in until the snapper ink slot is exposed what's going in quite freely not freely but a good gentle enough force okay starting to show up that's probably about it it just barely slipped in but we want to go just a little bit more to make sure that it's gonna snap all the way around okay okay here's the snap ring we've got it in the slot we're gonna utilize the same process of tapping with a brass hammer to get it to start great that snapped all the way in now we're gonna do the same with the other side maybe our last bearing to press in okay it wants to go just a little further okay there and I think they're both in quite solidly so now that we have it all assembled what we want to do is make sure that the bearings are equalized so that everything can move freely as is as we've pressed it in it's moving smoothly but kind of a lot of resistance in the factory service manual it talks about how there's a minimum spec for the amount of axial play which is how far the trunnion can move in and out of the bearings right now the trunnion is essentially captured by the bearings it has a little bit of preload we want to kind of take that off and give it just the tiniest bit of room to move in both directions so that the bearings can move smoothly so the way we're gonna accomplish that is similar to how we press the bearings out we'll support under the yokes and tap this way to use the trunnion to basically back the bearings back out half a thousandth of an inch at the most we're gonna be working on these two bearings see how this feels kind of a modest amount of force it's actually pretty good where we see if we can improve it a little bit so I'm going to tap on the yoke itself getting better already remember the snap rings are in place so the bearings cannot be forced back out they're basically just being forced back up a tiny bit there that feels great brand-new bearings so we don't expect it to be sloppy not at all but very very smooth and easy this way is much stiffer we're gonna deal with these two bearings by supporting this yoke on the vise and pressing this yoke up and down a tiny bit this is the motion we're trying to correct this is fairly stiff oh yeah there we go and I'm gonna call that good all right we are done you're gonna feed me lunch now Tim yes before we get the slip yoke back on to the drive shaft Jordan just wants to make sure bike squirting grease into the zurka fitting that we're gonna get grease squirting out of each cap so right now it's pushing out the OEM grease that the u-joint came with okay he's basically pushed out all the original grease and now it's got his choice of u-joint grease squirting out of each cap the first video that we actually ever made for our YouTube channel was talking about the slip yoke and the binding problem there is and it's been my theory that the upper splines get poorly greased with the zerk fitting being way the hell down here you're depending on the male portion of the propeller shaft to slide down dip into the grease that's in the bottom of the yoke and then drag it back up what Jordan is gonna do to just get this slip yo grease a little better he's just gonna use some of the grease and just manually lubricate the splines like I did in that video work it work it there we go work it okay excelente so a moment of truth we're gonna get the slip yoke back onto the main drive shaft a propeller shaft you can see our orange match mark on the main shaft and we have to match up the slip yoke match mark with the other match marked you could only get it on one way and that's the right way note that the zerk fitting is off to give the air pressure some were to escape and he's bringing the two sides together and making sure his match marks are good which they are okay so now he's gonna bring it up against the third member and he's gonna get one of his bolt and nut started there we go the finally let go of the drive chef now he's got one bolt in there we're not gonna show getting all the bolts started the torque spec for these driveshaft bolts is 54 foot-pounds so Jordans holding the back nut with a 14 millimeter box and rent then I'm using the torque wrench on the front side with a short 14 millimeter socket and a short extension we got all the bolts tightened 254 foot-pounds and then Jordan is gonna get his zerk fitting back into the slip yoke just remember that this is a very small fastener so you don't need a lot of force don't over tighten and break off the zerk fitting as a final step he's gonna inject some grease into the slip yogurt fitting this we cleaned it out this might take a while to pump it up so all right Jordan and I are done with another u joint replacement on a Toyota 4runner rear driveshaft we struggled but we were ultimately successful but we had to pull a lot of tricks out of our bag to finally get it done and we wanted to show you a much more clean way to do it what I thought was gonna work with a little bit of heat to get those bearing cups out actually didn't work all that great Jordan came up with a really good idea of grinding a flat section on opposing sides of that first bearing cup and then by utilizing the bench buys grabbing the bearing cup really strongly in the bench vise one person is twisting it while the other person is using a pry bar that enabled us to get that first cup out so once you get that first bearing cup out then you take your two jaw puller and you drive as far as you can the other way once you do that you can get the yoke off of the trunnion and then you saw how we did it we just got a brass drift and we captured the yoke against the jaws of the vise and we just knocked it out easy-peasy then we use the same technique with the other yoke and what we found is that because the bearing cups already off one side of the trunnion now everything was a lot easier as soon as we drove out the first side with the two jaw puller we were able to get it out easy because we're able to drive further without the opposing bearing cups in our way and as you saw getting everything back together is also pretty straightforward using the techniques we showed so basically what I'm trying to tell you is if you can get past that very first bearing Cup you're golden everything's going to go smooth you granted with automotive work anything could happen and you could have difficulty after getting that first bearing cup out pay attention to the video avoid the pitfalls that we shared with you so you will have a much easier time doing this job Andy if you're watching this I hope you're happy the u-joint you provided us wasn't the right one but luckily I had one for you so I hooked you up with all that said we thank you for watching Toyota time with Timmy the tool man named Shaun and special guest Jordin who was invaluable because the guys got a good mechanical brain and I could've done it without him thank you for watching thank you for subscribing if you have any questions or comments do that below take care bye bye and as always sick mods

Channel: Timmy The Toolman

Views: 75,751

Keywords: Hilux SURF, toyota, 4runner, 3rd gen, 3rd generation, KZN185, VZN185, RZN185, KDN185, U-joint, replacement, fix, how to, DIY, mechanic, repair, replace, universal joint, drive shaft, bearing cup, yolk, Trunnion, U-joint replacement

Id: 6arj3PpT1p4

Length: 43min 4sec (2584 seconds)

Published: Thu Dec 13 2018