Tutorial on How to Rebind a Bible - Step by Step Process.

all right let's rebind the Bible how about this for a perspective so here we have a uh Cambridge Concord goat skin so this had a premium cover on it so we had to remove the cover in a special way to retain that reinforcement from the factory kind of difficult but can be done and here we have our list from black sakota red liner they want standard embossing which means holy Bible translation and frost on the bottom we got tooled hubs three bearsford ribbons full Yap double guilt lines and perimeter stitching so let's get started measurements here we have our tailor measuring tape and I really hope this video is going to be stabilized because I am shaky so you see how let's get a better perspective I put the tape under it get it on that edge right there wrap it around it doesn't need to be tight and then always always round up so 12 and a quarter this to get our height we got eight eight and one eight plus and we can put that away next we're going to get our height which is go inch inch and 3 16. so now we have our length all the way around the Bible our height to the Bible and then that is our height of the uh page edges but I did forget to get the spine width throw it on there we got an inch and we'll say 3 16. so since this is the same because a lot of times the height of the Bible and the width of the spine can be two different numbers so you want to get those numbers separately there we go all done with that put it down there here's my messy uh messy section awesome they got black sakoto here we go and you see just how uh right the waviness it's just chaos see if I get if I get River grain zero waviness just flat that's why I like working with the river grain because there's nothing I could do about that waviness it's literally the leather stretched and then it makes it difficult okay if I measure here and it pushes in all of this if I measure here it right if I spread that out it folds this and then now we're too tight right there so Coto is difficult put that back let's get a H drinking the coffee so let's see if we could get a more smooth nope not gonna happen so I'm just gonna have to do my best here with the waviness and we stopped um sokoto is not available for orders anymore but this is a an order from you know about 10 weeks ago so still got orders to fill into code to but we stopped using it just because right good example right here we got a big hole sometimes there'll be a hole right here a hole right here then the waviness of it sometimes the colors not the same not consistent which I don't like I like it to be consistent every time but it's it's a beautiful leather nonetheless so I don't think I showed this in my uh tools I use video show my my square and I didn't show my tailors tape so I'll need to update that and there's a few more other little tools I didn't show like you know what I use this for little pliers so all right so let's see how we can work with this move it over get our white marking pen because it's a darker leather just grab it out all right so now we got our quarter inch fold over and then we got our inch and 3 16. height of the page edges so go a half inch or one inch 3 16 would be one and a half 30 seconds and if you want to confirm half inch one and a half then you move it over and there's inch and 3 16. so we know half inch and then that is a uh that's a sixteenth that's a 30 second so Thirty second and a half is our length or a half inch plus a 30 second and a half and that complicated but okay yeah you see uh right if I put my square or my ruler you see how it's not straight fun so I'm gonna figure out how I'm gonna work with this do my best scribe all the way down we got 12 and a quarter and then our Yap link is half is a half an inch plus 30 second and a half quarter inch fold do the same thing down here quarter inch half inch Thirty second and a half and we go over here we got 12 and a quarters our length half inch Thirty second and a half and a quarter and the the waviness of the leather you just gotta kind of work with it really what saves it is the liner because you could kind of stretch this sokoto you know if it's wavy you could kind of fix it later just to make a straight cover but if the leather is wavy itself uh sometimes it comes out sometimes it does not so right I mean look at this just chaos I mean just chaos really hard and uh maybe as a Tradesman I should know how to work with it but you know if I was a carpenter and there was a certain type of wood that was just all over the place and I couldn't be consistent with it you know I wouldn't work with it might be the best might be awesome but it's just I can't I can't be consistent and you know right my name's out there on a rebind so we'll do our best we'll work it so the same thing we got a quarter inch and then we got half inch 30 second and a half and we'll go down here what's our length eight and one eight maybe a half inch Thirty second and a half and quarter inch do the same thing over here quarter inch half inch 30 second and a half then we got eight and one eight half inch Thirty second and a half and then a quarter inch so let's do our straight lines up here and the sakota unless the pen is like unless I just refilled this uh the sakota gums up the pen this stuff is just a mess man it is just not easy any way you put it working with this stuff and really I began offering it just from so many requests you know people want the Allen replicas and uh actually asked Siegel seagull leather who provides this sakota goat skin and asked him how it compares to the Highland goats that Allen uses and uses and he was almost offended that I even compared the two leathers he said this this sakoto is a much more premium premium leather why I have no idea but that's what he says and uh he's the he's the leather expert all right now we're going to cut the cover out now that we got our markings all the way around and uh so here's our quarter inch fold over and I leave about a sixteenth to an eighth on the outside and we'll trim that later look at that and then just pull it that way just so I don't have to deal with this flopping around we'll throw that in our our very organized pile over there where I keep medium-sized leather cuts you know get it get sometimes a rebind of a pit Minion or a compact Bible and there you go and uh I have so much if you look down there that's all I have too much leather now leather scraps and I have so much I've had a couple people request leather scraps but as soon as they did I just threw them all away and then I can't find who it was that was requesting it so they don't get it um see look at that very straight right that's awesome so we got to figure out what we're gonna do here maybe this video will help clarify the reason why I don't use uh it's a Koto goat skin anymore putting me through the paces man all right so to clean it up if it's real wavy go from this side and then I'll just push it Forward push it forward and then we could clean up our excess line cut to where it's a little straighter all right now we have a exterior leather cover cut out and usually I check the outside to make sure there's no imperfections a lot of times the clothes I could have a hole or a rip or a but this leather looks good man gonna make an awesome rebind all right so now that we have the exterior done let's move on to hubs and uh skiving now you remember our number was 12 and a quarter that's right but now because this leather stretchy stretchy it's gone to uh 5 16. so just to make up for it just kind of fudge it on this end now we're now we're kind of even on the 30 second mark on each side right so 12 and a quarter six and eight and then we got our spine length which was a half inch Thirty second and a half half inch Thirty second and a half now if you want to do kind of a rounded spine you could you could push this out this number out a sixteenth or an eighth but if you do that and if the spine material that you place right here with raised hubs is too stiff this radius that is too wider than the Bible itself will slowly begin to pull the signatures apart and I learned that over time yeah that's just why I personally don't do it uh maybe the other binderies found a really good method of solving that issue I just have not and I know some they actually round the spine itself they take a hammer and yeah those are things I'm way above my skill level so I just stay away from anything that could be destructive uh because it's something I'm not capable of doing but maybe other binderies got Tricks up their sleeve that I don't know about man a lot of good boundaries out now very cool to see so we got our Center mark what we got the width of our spine material and then before I start skiving right so where do I where do I measure here so now we get our liner length so this one's reading 13 7 16. this one's reading about 13 7 16. uh this one's 13 9 16. so we'll go with 13 7. so we got 13 7 16 and I'll do a plus just so I don't cut it too tight then this number you usually don't worry about one three five nine five sixteenths minus so there we go now we are on to do some skiving first our two radiuses foreign here's where our liner is going to go and then I put this Mark now so I know how far to Skype then you're gonna see how fun it is to skive sukoto because it's a strong leather but it's a stretchy leather all right there's our three get our handy dandy washer and uh go like this go like that don't think the perspective is the best for you but you get the idea and the reason I'm cutting the radius off right now before skiving is because you don't want you don't want that pointed material right there when you go to skive and go around the corner it's kind of hard to throw that excess so you're just taking off excess so that it's easier to Skype around that there we go so German skyvin knife piece of marble get your uh 1500 grit sandpaper you want a wet sand brush off the stuff my little water bottle that broke so now I do this just need a little drop of water and then sometimes little pieces of fibers from the leather get on the sandpaper so I kind of find a place where it's not all bumpy see it's all bumpy right there so I don't really have a Rhyme or Reason to this but whenever I do circles even if I go up and down it doesn't really matter and then smooth out the bottom of that blade and I sharpen I sharpened the knife every time every time I skive leather I sharpen it and I actually maybe I have a piece of so here's a piece of river grain and uh let me show you how it's done wonderful easy peasy but sokoto it stretches I gotta be careful to not go too deep now I do the corners first you don't want to slip like that I want to want to keep it controlled and how I hold it is my pinky rests down and then these hold this and whenever I do the corners I don't move like this I stand on my pinky and I just spin and I guide the knife and you don't you don't want to press down you don't want to be up so I just keep flat pressure on it and I just go sideways you could feel it dig this is kind of more of a a muscle memory thing what I actually did to learn skyvings I cut strips of leather just kept trying kept practicing and if you ever get a new leather uh practice skiving with it first to learn how it uh how it skives stretching a little bit not too bad boom see how thin that is down to the exterior cut taken all of the which is this is actually suede leather taking that bottom cut off all right so we did our we did our corners we want to get that first and then we come back and we're going to mark on the corners for later and I do have one of those uh one of those bench here let me find it oh right here laying right here one of these bench it's too hard to work with man maybe I need a more expensive one uh I just the thickness or how much it how much material it takes off um it never stays the same it always moves and adjusts so maybe I need a more expensive one of those but with the knife I could just get the perfect amount every time so I guess just use what you're good at I know other uh I think coloca uses that type of sciver and you know if you put the hours in and get good at it then you could do good work but I just spent more time with the knife because no matter what the temperament of the leather uh I could kind of make it happen so so we got our skive corner we got our markings for the fold over and liner is and now there's two ways you could attack this you could just go all the way down which I do with the river grain the river grain that literally I literally just go all the way down and I could make this a very thin leather I mean there you go there's a half inch super thin fold over uh but sokoto if you try that with sokoto you will tear it so any salad kind of stretches so with the sakota I just take off chunks at a time and it minimizes the amount of stretch I have uh and also when I skive I never have like music on her headphones because you could hear when you're going too deep you could hear the tear of the leather and you could listen like whenever it goes that tight like that thin of a sky if I could hear when it's touched the exterior of the leather and I know that I'm Skyping it good by the sound of it go all the way down thank you sometimes you could get all the way across like here's a it's solid over here so I'm not scared to do it it's not as wavy but sometimes I get scared don't go all the way down but it's pretty solid on this side of the leather so I didn't mind that but see how it's wavy so I don't do that because you'll see how it kind of gets boogered up you don't want that to mess up your skive all right done here now that we have our markings and uh why I like these utility knives break that blade always when you're cutting the thin leather put a new blade on it just so you have a really smooth cut all right this is where our liner is going to go and then uh line up the lines wherever you like it and that is finished all the way around thank you next we'll do this one has raised hubs right nope it says tooled done third side it's getting a little wavy that's all right I think this will turn out okay but when it's when it's wavy and do this just to try to give me some love here and then you're gonna have to pull from the back if I only did this we would be way off so pull from the back straighten it out best you can line up the lines and because of the waviness of the leather flip the goat skin over put it on the top line it up and you could that waviness is sometimes hard to get on the other side but if you do it on this end you'll be able to get uh that smooth so it's not that makes sense I hope that makes sense [Music] all right one more side again it's a little wavy I'm gonna be careful to cut it straight all right and that is just a hair kind of wavy kind of attempt to nah it's not bad all right so now we got it got it cut I got it marked got it measured we got it described let's get our Corners done there's our liner radius where it's gonna go awesome and then grab our washer and then uh with this I don't just go all the way around I'll uh do multiple cuts you'll get a cleaner cleaner cut all the way around sometimes the blade will pull the leather or it'll uh stretch it out to where you won't get round won't be a nice round looking good looking good foreign making dinner here all right is this our last one all right ready to do hubs all right let's keep going with this Bible rebind this is the next day for me how to handle some other things so continuing on with this rebind of the Cambridge Concord in a black sakota leather and I did want to mention that I've already put out three how-to videos but I'm hoping this will be a sort of remastered there's a lot of issues with me trying to record kind of off camera and I'm hoping this perspective of first person will solve a lot of those and I know there's still a lot of questions and confusions especially with measurements and how I do certain things so over time hopefully more and more of these videos as I post them will bring more clarity to you and help you to uh get a good picture of how to do a rebind so let's do it so we got the exterior done of our beautiful black sakota and I also had a second thing I wanted to say the previous video you know I was talking about how the sakota is wavy and has holes in it and and I do want to say this is a gray leather from sequel from sokoto and they actually offer a number one which is just their best grade of the sokoto and a number two and a number three and and I believe for a long time they didn't have number one available and I was kind of left for a number two and number three um and those if you get the best grade uh it it shouldn't have the holes that the waviness should be minimized but still it's a very premium leather it's very expensive you know I get about you know four to five square feet at a time at a very high price that is is worth it uh I'm not saying it's not worth its value and you know what I'm able to do you know one full-size Bible rebind and you know a compact Bible and that's all I'm able to get out of it you know with the river grain why I like it is I could get you know six seven eight square feet from Siegel and I could use the whole hide I could use all of it it's not wavy it's not crinkly there's no holes in it so that's why I prefer it just because I'm able to get more Bibles done per hide um it's easier to work with and a preference some people really love this deep grain unique thick thicker leather I personally want it to look stock I don't I like my Bibles to look as if this is just a stock genuine leather cover but it's a little bit more premium than genuine leather because it has the leather liner it's a premium goat skin so that's why I just preference it is is because I like the look of it though this natural grain is beautiful it's awesome this is a very popular leather and I'm sure other binderies are going to still offer it so there's my disclaimer with three minutes in here we go so next thing we're going to do is uh we're gonna get the liner and we're gonna do the uh tooled hubs and in the previous video here's my measurements for the exterior and then here is my measurements for the interior liner and so I have my my markings and I know my length so let's uh do the hubs here I have stashed away some this is what I use for my tooled hubs and I will link this at some point on my details list this is a I think it's called craft text I'd have to pull it up but what this is is it's a a craft paper that's made to almost they call it leather text now it's nothing like leather it's very much paper but you can wash this you could dry this you could crinkle it you could smooth it out you could iron it you could sew it and so this material I just found to be uh very good for doing the spines it makes the spine sturdy I can mark it very easy with my white marking pen so we got an inch and 3 16 inch and 3 16 . for a long time I just used standard textured craft paper from Hobby Lobby and if you're looking for craft paper for end sheets I still get mine I always have at Hobby Lobby so eight and one eight and I don't have a hobby the nearest Hobby Lobby to me is about two hours away so I got to order 49 sheets of paper and have them shipped to me so if you have a Hobby Lobby near you you'll be paying half the price I do because I spend 20 bucks on end sheets I'm going to spend 15 on shipping very fun so here we go and I always cut um I'll be I won't be in the line I'll just kind of be here outside of the line there we go there's some slime material that's neatly throw it in the corner I got a message foreign see what it looks like I've seen some videos some people have very fancy shops and I sure wish I did uh I almost finished building my shop and I don't know if how many of you have kept up with kind of my online media but we moved three times in a year and a half so we moved once and when we moved that one time we uh I was building my shop there and when I almost finished my shop we ended up moving again so we moved from Washington we moved in in town in Washington here in Oroville and then uh we moved to California to be with my family during a hard time and then six months later after that season had passed my mother passed away we moved back to Oroville Washington so we moved three times and so my shop has now turned into something I could break down and set up quickly anywhere I go and I just have not found the time to build a shop and also we are renting here so spend a bunch of money on Lumber which was very expensive during covid so I've didn't do that so yeah maybe one day we'll have a shot but for now we got what we need so what I'm doing here is I got my tooler glued down my material and now I'm tooling out where the spine is and you don't got to do it hard I just want to be able to see it and the next thing I always do is see um with the sakota which side of the leather is cooler I like this side so I'll take my ruler which this is exactly one inch thick I'll throw it on the top and I'll tool out my Hubs and I'll use this top tooling line to be my Straight reference line so now that I have my first Hub where it's going to go this measures exactly an inch and a half and if I have a smaller Bible I'll you know have to make adjustments you know this one's a inch and three eight so I use that sometimes if it's a smaller smaller Bible then I'll just use this all the way down to get one inch spacing so let's mark out where our hubs are going to go with our inch and a half Square easy peasy and then next we'll move on to the uh soldering iron five one two three four five is always clean all right now we're gonna come over to our uh soldering station slash there's a soldering iron there's my embossing machine so we're gonna come over here and we got a couple bits I use this one for the gold Guild line and I use this one here for the tooled hubs turn it on and uh the machines at a temperature one day I'll make a video of exactly how to use that let's move on and if you have the same actually I will it's I put it between 245 265 245 with the softer foils um say the silver it it likes a cooler temperature depending on the type of liner so lambskins easy to line cowhide's easy line goat skin sometimes tough to Guild so you have to kind of balance temperature with the leather temperament just all depends so practice you'll kind of start to get a feel for what works and what doesn't so we got our soldering iron I got my ruler I got my tooled markings here um and I do have the soldering iron listed in the description with our list of tools that we use and so I take the flat end and I press it I don't know how the big companies do it but this is how I learned to do it here we go move on Down the Line and if you have a really expensive expensive soldering iron uh it won't it won't drop temperature that much it won't flux uh but once something touches it that conducts heat like metal it won't say it on the machine but I I can tell that the temperature is dropping and and kind of trying to keep up and so I usually will start the soldering iron let it heat up for a bit and uh you know I probably cooled it down at that moment and so sometimes it it takes a couple passes sometimes it'll be just real hot you don't have to do it too much so give it a press all right on to our last one easy easy peasy anistakota makes a really nice looking tooled hub spine so and then uh before I emboss I'll kind of measure you know here we have 15 16 here we have an inch and a sixteenth so I'll put the greater span on the bottom so I'll do Holy Bible translation Frost so we got the spine taken care of we got hubs now we are ready to move on to the liner and they would like a red liner and here soon I'm going to have uh this is a cowhide I found that I've been using but one time I found a premium calfskin the most premium best calfskin I ever found in my life for a Bible rebind I bought all of their stock and they went out of stock and I messaged them and said will you have more in stock and they said no so that was I don't know a year and a half ago so I've been using other Leathers for liners and liners are the hardest thing to find at a consistent peso I got in touch with a leather manufacturer who makes that same leather that premium leather that I loved uh and I got a hold of them and I am now going to buy as much as I can and invest towards some leather that for one I can use for my business and number two for other for those of you who are getting into rebinding um who are having troubles that I have all these years trying to find a leather liner and I will be able to help you and be a source of leather for you so that'll be up and coming I am in the works right now of talking to the uh manufacturer the distributor and it's from the Middle East so one three five seven thirteen seven sixteenths sorry that you probably were out of the camera one three five seven so I'll have leather for sale soon four liners premium liners the best I have not found a better leather it is the per perfect thickness perfect ounce uh the finish on it is very smooth but like a beautiful smooth it's not glossy it's not extremely matte man it's just I I think it's a premium leather made for like bags and shoes um nine and five sixteenths one three five and if I make this video and talk all day I'm gonna take too long one three five okay nine and five sixteenths here let me adjust you maybe need to be up just a hair okay get our liner cut here line it up and we are almost on to embossing usually I would have started the uh my uh embossing machine my Kingsley already just to start getting it heated up but I didn't I didn't today because I'm distracted by making this video all right there's our liner here's our messy station one day when I have my own shop I will have in much cleaner organized station to work at but it's the price I'm paying at the moment from moving three times and even where I'm at is kind of temporary all right so we got our liner now get your exterior cut for a reference and uh find Center so we got 13 7 16. so six and a half is 13. and then I could go one three five seven so uh six and three quarter minus or 11 16 plus yeah six and three quarter minus awesome and then our width was an inch and three sixteenths now you could go over um but you don't need to you could you could do an exact right here and then when you cut it later um you just kind of go over a little bit just to make sure that your liner is not too tight so if we got an inch in 3 16 that'd be inch in the 16th and a half half inch sixteenth and a half right engine 3 16. so half inch sixteenth and a half half inch sixteenth and a half awesome awesome now I just Mark where the cut is gonna end and start and then we got a Center Line cut and then we have our cut line where it's going to end and it's going to start and uh for reference what is our Yap length it's a half inch 16th and a half so half inch sixteenth and a half inch sixteenth and a half Mark the top of it do the side half inch sixteenth and a half and here I'm going to find Center between the liner where it meets the Bible in the end of the app so this is the length or the width of the Bible itself so we got five and a half which would be uh two and two and three quarter come on can't think tank so two and three quarter so we've got one three five sixteenths three and five sixteenths is my Center from the outside of the liner to the inside and you'll see that later when I go to emboss goat skin leather I do three and seven sixteenths from the outside I make the lettering Center and I stamp it right there and I know that the goat skin leather and frost binding stamping is going to be Center on the inside but I could work on the outside I have a number from I pulled from the outside makes sense good good good so half inch sixteenth and a half half inch 16th and a half so now we have our liner is complete we got our length for the Bible we got our Yap markings and we have our embossing number where we're going to embossed goat skin leather and frost binding so now we can get ready to emboss and all right next we are going to move on to spine embossing now there's a couple ways you could do this so the original way I did it for actually years is um this is a piece of river grain and on the spine I would measure so say here's here's the spine let's get some markings here so say that that's our spine so what I would actually do is Mark Center I'd Mark Center with my white marking pen and I would right I'd Mark the different sections and then I would find Center of each each section and then I would mark across and then I would emboss that way but if this stays on too long it's very difficult to remove these markings and as you're trying to remove them you scuff up and kind of ruin your embossing work so I would for years this is just how I did it and I would just try to be careful but when I started using sokoto and calfskin leathers if you mark this no matter how long you wait if you try to clean it up it's near impossible so but here's one way to start if it's the river grain and you could also just make like a small Mark like a DOT on your Center on your Center Center and then that single small dot down your spine could be a lot easier to remove like with a Q-tip and some water so you can do that way but how I do it is I just do it freehand I don't do any markings I don't have any lasers I just kind of look and I've done thousands of Bibles now so I've just kind of gotten kind of good at it and I've never had anybody complain they might not be perfect because with big companies they have a machine that embosses Holy Bible translation publisher all at the same time and they just line up the cover that's made for it perfect they have the machine they press it once it embosses everything at the same time they move on to the next cover well we most of us can't afford that big machine or have access to it so we do line by line so let's go to the uh let me adjust you here so here's my Kingsley machine but any embosser will work it doesn't have to be anything specific uh the Kingsley uh what's the other brand Howard and there's some off-brand ones that will work but this is the first machine I ever got when I first started doing rebinds in 2014. uh my family actually came together and bought this for me and my first stamping was terrible so concerning the embossing machine I turn it on high per the manual to start and then this temperature gauge uh 250 250 degrees Fahrenheit is your ideal temperature to stamp at now this won't regulate perfectly and stay at 250 because once you slide this in uh with your typeset it starts to conduct heat and uh the temperature starts to go down a little bit so you have to practice if the temperature is high you don't want this in too long because it'll just get hotter and hotter and hotter so you slide it in you wait like 10 seconds and you stamp real quick you don't sit there and press for a long time you just pop and if you need to do it again do it again if it's really high you really be quick if it's too low just wait turn the temperature up again take this out every time whenever you're not embossing slide it out when it's ready to go slide it back in and I turn it on on high to heat it up and then when it's heated up I turn it down to six and a half to six and a quarter and then let it regulate there and then as I'm stamping I'll turn it up a little bit I'll turn it down a little bit as I'm going and over here we have our different ready type sets because again I go line by line and so here's all my different types that I use but here's all my ready type settings my translation so with this one we have Holy Bible and then we're going to have King James and then I need to find version b-e-r-s-i-o-n I believe this is it b-e-r-s and I think I'm missing a letter v e r s i o so I need an n where is an n here we go v e r s i o n so there's version and then they wanted standard so we're going to do Holy Bible translation and then Frost where's my Frost so there's my Frost set and these stamps they have um grooves on the side so how you emboss this is how you'll set it in the type and I have two different types I have a single line and then I have a three line open type set and I only use this whenever I do front cover embossing so I'll do Holy Bible real large and that's all I use it for and I'll have to emboss off camera so you'll see me emboss but I won't have this point of view just because it'll be way too difficult for me so let's switch angles here all right so we're set up here we're at temperature I got my type setting with first line holy I got my uh my exterior cut confirm that we have the greater dimension on the bottom and we do and I put the type set in and I just eye it and since this is Holy Bible we don't want Center we want off center Center so push it down a little and then I come down here and I it again and you could uh you could see because I have those side tooled lines of the spine material I could see where Center actually lands here and there we go we're Center temperatures good and then when I press it real quick and uh if I need to do another I'll do another this one's getting standard embossing so Holy Bible translation Frost and uh just get hot foil embossing material I don't think it matters 24 Karat real gold embossing foil is very hard to work with that one you have to have the temperature right and the timing right I should get more of that stuff but I just have it and then we move it up for next line which is Bible and uh bam I'm on it now it's a good spacing find where Center is you could do a a test press just to do a very light impression to kind of see where it's going to go now we're doing Bible there we go I mean I'll show you once I'm done because I don't like to move it so next is the translation which is King James version so it's going to be two lines if you have a three line translation or four line say New American Standard Bible so you have four lines so I would do American first embossed which would be Center kind of off center just right above Center and then I could put new above that and then I would find off-center Standard Bible and there would be the order here I have King James version so it's two lines so I'm going to find Center and be above it and then I could do version right below that if it's a three line if you're just doing new American Standards say you have a 1977 uh nesb that you're rebinding and you would just want to do New American Standard then I would find Center with American stamp American first and then put new above it and standard below whip so we have King James Version so I'm going to find Center and go a little bit above Center and then I'm going to find Center this way and because I don't have a long enough span right here to push uh the leather forward with my guide I just kind of feel it out from here it's pretty good do our uh light impression to see if we're good and straight and happy looking pretty good King James because we're doing a Cambridge Concord so this is certainly going to be a King James version stamping and it's cool that I'm stamping it kind of how they do it they do it the same way with King James on top version on the bottom here we go King James Version next we'll stamp Frost after that we'll stamp the liner all right and here I have my uh my spacer tool kit there we go v-e-r-s-i-o-n version so go low below it fine Center because not always is the spacers and the length of the letter the same so it will get off I'm just a hair too close right there and kind of off center oh perfection just a hair just to hair to the left v-e-r-s-i-o-n King James Version quick press quick press our liner now I have multiple dimensions on this thing I have my Yap length which is a half inch 16th and a half so I'm gonna set this at about three quarter quarter inch half inch three quarter so there's three quarter and I wrote my number three and five sixteenths right there so I'm gonna throw that in here hold it down use my sweater because it's hot I'm gonna find my goat skin leather type set already made for me all right so we got three and five sixteenths so now I'm gonna go to the edge of the leather with my ruler and I'm going to find Center one two three one three five sixteenths one three five sixteenths there we go I'm Center I'm three and a quarter off the edge uh three quarters off the edge do a pre-stamp so I know where my foil's gonna go at skin leather stamped and don't get it backwards flipped right if you're doing a backs embossing your letters are upside down going right from left your covers upside down going right to left it was all confusing to my head and I first started stamping cross binding all right three one three five sixteenths find where Center is there's Center and I move the ruler over to get away from the edge so I could stamp it still sitting at 250 degrees and we are done we got our cover cover embossed Frost binding goat skin leather now time to put it together all right we got our cover embossed looking pretty good to me we got our liner embossed so first thing let's measure this length and I always find it's under because when I cut this liner say it's a 36 inch short here a 30 second short here because I cut right on the liner inside the line when I make the markings so I always find that this length compared to the length of the Bible the height of it it's going to be a hair shorter now I happen to just land on perfectly it's about it's a eight inches and a sixteenth and a half uh or two thirty seconds it's just under an eighth so I know when I go to cut this line I'm just going to put my ruler right on the line I'm not going to go over not going to go under and I should land perfectly at an inch and 1 8 which is the height of the Bible so let's get our Corner radius let's get this open so here's the one I use for the liner cut our Corner radius here done so I want to put it right on the line and I just cut a hair over and the hair over just to give us some love when we're trying to install it here over and a hair over all right now we can cut down and we should have a perfect width on that and height thickness cache that to the side now whenever I do the glue I always do back side first so I just don't have to think little processes like that will make the job quick that you start to come up with just your own little systems do the same thing every time and you'll make less mistakes I've I've done that quite a few times where I glued the liner upside down so apply a generous amount of glue on our wavy section of the sokoto get some excess off carry it to the edge and then I just glue one section first I don't glue on top yet got enough glue to where I could carry it all the way around hold it down so that doesn't flop around too much like it's doing foreign next will be yeah it calls for double get lines but I'm only going to show the single get lined because the doubles kind of kind of hard I'm not a master of that yet it's pretty difficult for the sake of a very long video I'll probably explain what I do but I'll show at least the single get line all right so we got our rear liner I fold it in half like that find our markings find our markings now with the wavy leather I'm just gonna have to work it to get it perfectly on my marking that I made all the way down and I could tell it's gonna fight me here but I think we'll be all right just work it all the way around get it as perfect as you can so that we have an even quarter inch all the way around for the fold over take your ruler press the outsides first because that's what's important that doesn't move then do the inside do the inside to the inside then I take my tooler that I use for many many things and I tool down for our edgeline tab is and then I tool up my tool up again that's more decorative than anything and you could come to the outside and kind of give it a good press initially needed but it kind of minimizes waviness sometimes okay I know this part is probably probably uh pretty self-explanatory glue the other side get your lots of glue on the leather spread it out carry it over I don't like a lot because it starts to Splash everywhere all the way down all the way down the line all the way down the line kind of spread out the excess glue that's in the center and then here I'll glue the top and bottom of this of the spine kind of got a he had too much glue on my brush I don't like it it's messy but it's all right okay now I take from this angle line up my line over here look at that falls perfectly where I want it okay do the same thing on this side make sure I could see the line how's the framer I framed houses for a long time and I laid a wall down I want to see the line there we go take a ruler press the outside make sure we didn't move anywhere get our Center pressed sometimes you'll get like a spot of glue on this and then from the outside I'll press the top and the bottom okay oh no see that's what I like excess glue start to get messy but catch it in time you're right just a little a little bit of water and uh now some Leathers it'll just soak it up you don't do this but this leather is forgiving so you can you can do that let me take our ruler oh first Mark out where my spine is for our tab and do the top and bottom now we are ready uh to do our single and double get line and then we could fold it over and almost be done all right we're going to Mark out our lines to do our first guilt line so I have my markings on the cover here so I'll go a 30 second under a quarter over from that line so I measured outside of the liner a 30 second under a quarter and I do that all the way around glue in my way sucker so that when I measure line up those two markings add the foil down then this fold over it will meet perfectly that's what we want so take our foil and I'm always measuring out a side length foreign meaning I'll use this length of foil to do the sides and then I'll do this side then I'll do this side so there we go first since we embossed over here let's first take off our Hub bit put on our guilt line bit turn that on so it could start heating up uh that's too hot clean up our mess over here since I let these type sets uh cool off Holy Bible those away and I'm stashing them back up here for use for later all right we are free and clear and you could do a confirmation just to make sure you're not too far away but my markings are a 30 second under a quarter and if I put my ruler on those markings and then when I go to press it's going to be you know a 30 second in more so it'll be perfect so I made uh an adjustment for the ruler an adjustment for the tool itself where it's actually going to emboss so line it up and then this took me a long time to it's not hard but just practice because the foil could crinkle up and all that so I'll very light-handed no pressure on it go from the middle middle and pull up go from the middle and pull down and then put some a little bit more pressure and then I'll kind of go slow with lots of pressure and sometimes you got to do this twice beautiful temperature was right our pressure was right so we are happy happy happy so move on to the next one all right start from the center go up no pressure just let it slide you just kind of get the foil straightened out under you put a little bit more pressure go down put quite a bit of pressure and go slower and uh it kind of crinkled up a little more all right I think I might want to fix the camera angle to here hopefully this will be better you could see me in my socks all right so now we're going to do the top and bottom all right line up the two lines all right and I know the ankle's kind of wonky it's just what I got to do to get it done on my end here we go lots of prep or no pressure from the middle up from the middle down medium pressure and a decent amount of pressure go slow and then one more pull down just to get rid of any of the crinkles beautiful then I do the second section of the top and I got a more apparent line up there of where I'm going press it lightly press it lightly a little bit more pressure good amount of pressure beautiful not bad almost done how long has it been a minute two minutes maybe all right next section start from the middle pull up and it'll pull down do a light one and then do a little bit more pressure and you could hear the sound of it crinkling I don't know if it's coming up but get rid of any any of the crinkles beautiful thing onto the next one line it up with our top existing line hey look at all this crinkle try to flatten it out almost iron it all right smooth a little bit of pressure more pressure crinkle get rid of the crinkles okay beautiful thing so next are corners this is a uh you can tell what it is old cut mat I made my own radiuses here's a medium here's a small here's a large here's an extra small just depends so here we're going to use large which fits perfectly with my radius is for the liner and the exterior press the top first follow it around slowly meet the line beautiful thing and it's I don't always get this perfect but it looks good all right next section do all four corners get it square we're on the large radius beautiful thing all right next one got it lined up follow it around beautiful thing one more bada bing bada boom one more beautiful thing and we are done and then I will use this for future embossing so next I'll do the double goat line which I won't show on camera and then we'll move on to folding the corners over tooling and this one calls for perimeter stitching so I'll show how I machine Stitch all right we got our double get line done which oh which I just need I need to think for uh be hard to do it on camera one day I'll dedicate a video to it but and we could check and see happy happy happy I don't always get it perfect it's just man it's such a difficult line to do I mean that is probably the hardest thing to do is to get this perfect so sometimes it's a 16th too wide sometimes it's a 36 30 second too tight this is just incredibly difficult thing to master so we are now on to the next thing which we can now glue the fold over so we need our glue we need our brush we need our smaller ruler and we also need a disinfectant wipe up there we also need a paper towel so here's the process I'm gonna glue down the line here way too much glue on my brush usually is the first time because of applying the glue on the liner and then I always apply some glue on the ends just to get some glue started there and take your your Clorox wipe or your off-brand one clean it off wipe it off and since I applied a lot of glue there I'm gonna move to the other side better better even amount of glue on this side start the top and bottom go down to pick up any excess glue take our off brand Clorox wipe paper towel dried off and then take my ruler slide it underneath begin to kind of just to get it to press so I'm not fighting it as much and then yeah see what this camera with this point of view you have a really good perspective then I just work it all the way down touching that guilt line or if I'm not doing a guilt line I'll tool a line so that it's close to perfection all right all the way down Finger by finger inch by inch all the way down and if you did your fold over length right you shouldn't be fighting it so there's not wanting to stay up here then I take my little my little hammer give it a press so I don't move it around so much take my book weight press and uh I did a good job on the glue there shouldn't be any excess glue to clean up here all right now there's too much glue at first but now there's not enough because it kind of dried so apply a little bit more wipe it off and I do all the sides first and then I move on to the corners later and it's kind of there's kind of a lot of glue kind of too much glue so I don't want to press too hard and squeeze out all that glue so just kind of lightly press it down and go ride it all the way down to meet that guilt line or tooled line whatever I'm working with and uh I'm able to push it over and push it down and it's meeting just right on the guilt line and gotta fight it so and because I got a little bit more glue in there I'm able to kind of go back and clean up my work take my little hammer give it a press just to begin setting it it's kind of kind of a lot of glue in there so it's one to move around more than it should take my book weight press and uh there's definitely excess glue but again this liner is forgiving so if I'm working with the uh historical goat skin I'll definitely avoid and if you got excess glue just press a little bit of the Clorox white material or solution onto a wipe lightly take that excess glue off happy happy happy all right do the same thing for the top and bottom and with this angle you'll be able to see the corners much easier take her Clorox wipe as I shake the camera to death as I do that fold it over so I'm not fighting it trying to pull it around here we go and now oh press it to the guild line and we kind of have a wavy cover over here so and take some finesse getting it to look straight over here but I want to work kind of fast because I don't have to apply glue again on the second bottom half which is already starting to dry here there we go all the way down get it as perfect as we can foldovers will make or break a rebind you could have great measurements great embossing great color combinations the leather is awesome but then your fold over is not the cleanest uh you know you might be a good Craftsman but the corners that fold over man just uh doesn't make it look the best so man if I was to work on anything the most I would work on corners and how I would do that is I would just take cuts of leather and cut squares out of it and work on my radius work on my skiving and just make a bunch of Corners that's a exactly what I did and the glue is already drying so I didn't even bother with the small hammer because I got it pretty good all right we got Four Corners down and next we could do the corners here I'm pressing the fold over where the uh crease is going to be just so that it's better there so we got our butter knife our tooler we got our smaller brush we don't need the color Ox wipe anymore so throw that back get a little bit of glue and we already applied some glue earlier so it shouldn't take much more to get it to stick all right so then I find Center with my butter knife there you go bam Center take my tooler hold it on to the next one on to the next one on to the next one finish it off we are halfway there now if the if the corners are not skived well uh this this part will fight you if it's too thick of 11 it'll be hard so take my little hammer give it a press take my book block give it a really good press and uh you could leave it or you could come back and do some detail work at some point beautiful thing on to the next one we already applied a little bit of glue earlier so it doesn't take much again so that whenever I go press this I don't have a whole bunch of glue to clean up so find our Center fold it over get our tooler hold my Center mark it around one half of the way all right finish the job then sometimes it'll be holding by itself ah all right go the other route fold it over fold it over give it a good press fold it over finish the job light pounding first big book block next I got no excess glue coming everywhere come back and do some detail work if you want to press just some presses with the butter knife happy happy happy on to the third one just a little bit of glue because we already applied some very good find the middle press it in get our two or two work it around finish the job work the second half now good press evenly spaced press it around finish the job and work onto your next one all right we got our Four Corners completed so next we're going to do our tooled lines and then we're going to do perimeter stitching so loaded on uh set it on the end and give it a pressed tool marking all right for some reason I always switch to the opposite end there's a tool marking and I'm using my my tooler I have had this tool this is the first tool I've ever bought for leather working I bought this in Oklahoma at tandy's leather in 2014 or 2015. I always forget which year and when I started doing rebinds I didn't start doing rebinds I did custom leather satchels leather wallets and journals and I always encourage somebody doing rebinding make a wallet first just so that you begin to learn how to work with leather leather temperaments you know a leather wallet is not much leather and learn how to cut straight and measure and all right so now there we got our exterior tooled line here we have a tooled mark from the bottom of our spine material so now I could just measure up from our tool line to that make a mark up here half inch make a mark right here half inch so then I can line up my markings my tool Mark bottom of spine and then now our tool line will match up perfectly with where the Bible itself will be so our number was half inch half inch here we go we're in business to it we got half inch we are to have our half inch marker here because my ruler is not long enough half inch up there land on my marking line it up foreign tool it out do our other side half inch beautiful thing half inch beautiful thing then we do the edges by hand so I just take it and I just right at the edge it's kind of going slow and giving it a good press because I don't have the friction heat like I do when I'm going straight this tight corner and then here just find it round it out just a hair go straight there we go again follow the corner go slower with friction so I could get a good press just a hair of a radius don't want too big of a radius kind of looks funny I want a tight radius all right follow the edge pressing well here we go go straight to a tight radius looking beautiful one more now this rebind calls for a perimeter stitching so because we did this tooled line we now have a reference line for our perimeter stitching so let's come to my multi-station let me move you up here 's uh my sewing machine that I have used uh since 2016. singer heavy duty I've never cleaned it never had it serviced I've put many hours on this we got the wrong color in here let's take out the the gray install the black s not sure what the perspective will be on camera when I do this and I'll take you through not how to set this up but I'll take you through my settings you can watch a different video on how to work a sewing machine teach how to Perimeter Stitch with the machine there's lots of sweet old grandma showing how to do it but I'll show my settings so have this at length three here's our length um here's our width just to give us the needle Center because you could adjust where the needle's at I have the needle on Center and then I have the tension at uh not quite 6.5 6.25 Maybe so since we are ready to go here first I'll start on the top back of the cover and we'll line up our line and I might get wonky on the camera because I don't want to ruin this cover uh so first I do a straight line while holding the thread once we're good I could let it go guide it through following the line now how I do corners is back here you have a dial which will hand drive the needle so I will hand drive the needle around the radius while holding the cover going around the radius look at that tricks of the trade how long it take me to figure that out a whole lot longer than it should have hand crank turn the radius by hand again it's just everything's practiced it's not hard but just practice practice I lift up the needle I turn the cover to straighten out here we go happy happy happy continue on foreign stuff back there so pick it up hand crank foreign third side and crank foreign beautiful thing beautiful thing It all becomes a muscle memory at some point you do it enough all right our last home stretch here now I'm gonna go over my previous start and I'm going to let the needle set in to the leather here's my reverse go in reverse go forward Go reverse go forward twice again and you have locked the stitching in and check your work we are happy happy happy all the way around take your scissors snip snip snip your scissors snip the excess there we go take your lighter light the other side also take your baby hammer press that finish section and we are we are done with the cover check that out so now we are on to uh if I miss anything primer Stitch no no we're good so now we're on to block prep and Cover install all right now we are on to book prep this Bible already has art gilding installed so I'm not gonna mess with it we're going to remove the stock ribbons and uh I might reuse the stock uh Cambridge does a good job with their headbands they certainly do so there we go I might reuse these I like the I like the Cambridge stock gold and red headbands on rebinds and uh I like their thinner ribbon so I'll throw it in my organized drawer there and uh sense we're gonna keep the original I like the original uh maybe we'll give them white I think they're gonna want white they're going for a they're going for a long primer look foreign get our homemade book press that I've used for since 2015. make sure I'm on the I'm on the top there yep put it in our press it in get our white headbands we'll reuse the old ones or use the old ones for a reference for length beautiful thing oh boom boom take our lighter just touch the sides I actually saw a different Bindery on YouTube do this I just recently started doing that very smart always something new to learn now we have our bearsford Rubens that we are going to use for the customer where's my scissors here foreign get our lengths they want three Barefoot ribbons go happy happy here's our three and I also have and here a cash of uh just some black paper get a ruler we had about an inch what is the thickness inch and 3 16 this part doesn't have to be critically perfect inch and three sixteenths 8 and 1 8 is the length so we'll go to eight we'll match that up with if our length is good very good happy happy happy this is going to be a terrible perspective I can already tell I'll do my best get your brush your medium size brush maybe I could pull it down don't usually do this but apply a little bit of glue to the top here and let that kind of set for a minute move on to the top and let that kind of set for a second and this is a terrible perspective apply a little bit more glue I bought for excess install our headband now they got three ribbons here so we'll do one in the center first and then I'll apply a little bit more glue because the headband's kind of tough to stick to the ribbon material so get that process started do our third to our next ribbon foreign try to help with the perspective here apply some plant lots of glue and apply our headband then I could kind of feel and I have to really check it I could kind of feel where it's folding over and see how it doesn't wanna it doesn't want to stick to that ribbon material okay and then we're gonna apply our our finish spine material we don't have to do anything else more to the spine because we have the original manufacturer spine reinforcement and this is a Cambridge Bible so we have nothing to worry about with the Cambridge they have really good spine material they make their Bibles really well they they have the best bound Bibles I've taken them I have taken them all apart they have the best even some of these premiums that I take apart uh apply some glue on there I just want to be careful because it does want to move all right apply some more glue on the top here sorry that the perspective sucks okay we're going to take our spine material line it up on top press it down and the spine material will help hold that top headbands that's wanting to still move around from trying to dry on the ribbons and now we will wait for this to dry before we install the cover all right home stretch we got our cover finished looking pretty good looking pretty good beautiful Grain on the sakota got our double guilt lines finished Corners beautiful things so I didn't have the best perspective doing the uh headbands and ribbons sorry about that but now we are going to install the Bible put the cover onto the Bible now this was a leather-lined cover that I had to remove um which I will dedicate one day a video to just to show won't take long but I found a good system to not ruin it uh but because of that it's very difficult not too ruin see I get a break right there so I'm gonna pull this old end sheet off like so we have a cardstock available and it just kind of is what it is to make this Bible right so we have the original reinforcement folds up so we're going to glue this down and then now we have the spine completely reinforced all the way around and the other side um I don't think we did damage it nope it looks good which is cool because it's a quarter retained the original original things with the Bible so but here the front is good so I let this sit for about you know 30 minutes or so to let the glue dry and the headbands the new headbands and ribbons kind of set because after I install the cover I put it in a press and I don't want to press the headbands and ribbons off to where they don't dry and set well so since we have a double built line here we got to get it lined up well let's just take some Finessin here and it's kind of hard it's kind of hard just take some love and patience doing this part here before I set it up to reinstall the new cover and there's no Rhyme or Reason to it besides making it straight and where you want it and once I kind of have it where I want it let's not move it my hands are dirty I've been uh rebuilding my engine on my Toyota 4Runner I had a blown head gasket and since I had to pull the heads [Music] well since I bet far along I might as well do the head gasket have the heads resurfaced uh because the blown head gasket my spark plugs got washed out so new spark plugs well the injectors were all mix match from previous professional maintenance so uh did new injectors and spark plugs and heads and valve adjustment so anyways it's back up and running we are good to go so my hands are dirty from working on my car for three months it took three months to put that sucker together all right so we're gonna glue our reinforcement down here which will be just as good as Factory Cambridge has the best reinforcement and how they put together their Bibles is the best best materials best glue all right so you see how I got my book hold it down put it off the side glue your tab beautiful thing push it not sure how the perspective is going to land with me doing this but beautiful just where we want it awesome so and once I do that I'll also gonna give it a good press take my handy dandy book block book weight whatever this is called maybe so many comments can say what it is can't think of it right now I think it's gonna be awesome looking Bible here all right the other side take off our original end sheet zero damage to the cardstock which is awesome we want to save that let's do a check on where it's going to land once I fold that over because it's not always perfect and it is not so with the double get lines you got to do a couple trial runs see how you're gonna push it on okay I think we could work with that all right book wait sometimes this um tab is too tight so kind of loosen it up so you're not fighting it here beautiful I don't need to glue my tab down because there was no damage glue the tab and it's important to get glue down there tight on the inside right where the tab is going to meet the block you know on the top half right this top half it's not so important even though it is but that bottom half he wanted to have enough glue because that's really the point that it holds it especially on the edges all right try to install it the way we practiced not bad put tension on the cover I'm going to press it down and kind of pull on that cover just to make sure it meets really well awesome press it press it it's kind of cool a little scar natural scar and this should be a full Yap sure is looks like a black with the red liner double get lines I know Skyler does that this Allen have Bibles like that candy cane the candy cane this is kind of a candy cane replica a candy cane Allen Cambridge Frost rebind very cool I do wanna tighten it up a little more so I just kind of roll the tab just kind of trying to push it Forward here just to get that double get line better where I want it beautiful thing and now we grab our handy dandy book press homemade I need to put a handle right here I always think of that so I could lift it up but I just never get to it put it in our brick press just to press down those tabs make them look flat so there's no bulge from the thickness of the liner and so that it sets really really well so that block let it sit here for I don't know PVA glue you only need like 15 minutes but maybe 20 minutes or so make it set real good and then when you do this press like this and press and let it set if you did your measurements right you should have it when the Bible opens you know you could see you know it's a straight line and then the spine it goes down and opens you know it's completely flat uh and I like the look of the spine showing it's holding the block if that makes sense so I'll let that sit next we'll do end sheets and ribbons and we will be done all right onto end sheets now I almost forgot the Holy Bible stamping and I didn't show that because I had to do it a different way I usually do it before I install the cover but there it is looking pretty good here I let this sit for a while just so that every key everything could dry so and sheets all right I had to go off camera for the uh in sheets because I tried to do it with the first person point of view and it is impossible so this is the best I could do maybe I'll have to put out a re-re-mastered because I need more camera angles I need a camera from above that's what I need so here's our I already did the other side uh and this is from Hobby Lobby textured cardstock craft paper and I uh line up the top I crease the bottom just so I know how far to put the glue not even sure if you're in a camera anymore like if I'm in view but hopefully you'll see how I cut it is very basic I don't think it's too important that you see how I put on this card stock but could be helpful could be helpful I see a lot of boundaries are sending me messages which is really cool of how this uh these videos have helped and they're already doing guilt lines and I can't believe it because it took me years to learn how to do a get line all right line up the top makes a lot of sense you don't want the book to be folded on you underneath meant to be flat beautiful thing and then I take my ruler and I press it and I kind of ride it to give it a beautiful straight line press give it one more press and then I take the cover slide it under my cutting mat take my knife you should have a pretty good perspective and I follow along the Bible be careful not to cut off the gilding and you are not going to have a good perspective of the next cut I make is what it is you get the gist though cut it down write it down the line to your corners multiple cuts to get around beautiful thing finished now I could install my ribbons tuck one tuck two three all right [Music] and then uh I go about four inches long people think that's too long some people think that's too short I can't win but for the most part people like four inches long it's kind of the perfect it's long but it's not too long all right fire the ends just real quick and if uh if there's a bigger fully apple extend that link so now we have a completed a very RL Allen looking Bible with a 53 candy cane style with a Cambridge block we are finished good job all right and here's a look at the finished product the frost rebind of a Cambridge Concord with the RL Allen candy cane style even similar leather scoto is a beautiful leather I mean this is a premium beautiful leather whenever uh whenever I do a good job it makes a really cool looking Bible we got our tool line right there just right there I like it got our tooled hubs front cover embossing your perimeter stitching got our double guilt line nice clean fold over I like it when it opens up it looks really good this is where I take photos of my bibles if I can tell the workbench here looks really good it opens up nicely so there it is so I hope this video was of help to you if it was man I've had tons of response already from the previous videos I've made uh but man leave a comment send me a message uh to really really encouraging and really cool to hear I didn't expect that when I started making these videos you know just how much I would enjoy the response and the uh updates from you guys on progress and I had one brother message me and say that he's been selling his rebinds and helping fund missions so there you go how to rebind a Bible with frost leather remastered thanks for watching bye-bye

Channel: The Frost Leather Channel

Views: 31,325

Keywords: Frost Leather, How to, premium bible, Cambridge, concord, goatskin leather, bible rebinding, bible repair, bookbinding

Id: VlgTXViwO3k

Length: 135min 40sec (8140 seconds)

Published: Sat Jan 14 2023