Tutorial - How to Make Designs by JuJu's Fall 1 Table Runner

hey everybody hi it's becky from powertoolswiththread.com i wanted to make a tutorial today to show you how to make this gorgeous designs by juju table runner it is just so pretty and it's so easy to make it's much easier than it looks so i just wanted to give you some tips and tricks about how to get the file and download it from designsbyjuju.com and then talk to you about the process of actually stitching it out and then i think really the hardest part is putting it all together in the end but even that is easy with some tips and tricks that i'm going to show you so this table runner is a combination of regular plain embroidery and then there are a couple of applique blocks so the plain embroidery blocks are those like thankful the sunflower blocks the swirl blocks blessed and all the other border blocks those are all regular embroidery blocks and then there are two kinds of applique blocks there's the pumpkin block and there are leaf blocks to make the applique it's very easy to just put a piece of fabric on top of your placement line and let the machine do the tack down and then take your scissors and trim around the tack down line and then when it gets to it it will do the final satin stitch however i am going to show you how to create svg cut files using in brilliance essentials if you want to do that and then you can take that svg file to any of your cutting machines that you might have whether you have a scan and cut like i do or a cricut or a silhouette anything that will cut an svg file you can cut your leaves and your pumpkins using a cutting machine if you have this table runner comes as a 5x7 or a 6x10 so even if you have a 5x7 hoop that's the largest hoop your machine can take you're still going to be able to make this beautiful table runner this table runner is self bound and what i mean by that is i took the backing and i cut it an inch and a quarter larger all the way around than the table runner when it was put together and then did a fold and did another fold and actually put it on using steam a seam two to hold it down i kind of glued it just a little bit and then i went around it with a blanket stitch and stitched it down that makes for beautiful miters on your corners and an easy way to bind your table runner this table runner has a total of 14 hoopings and even though it's got more than 14 blocks a lot of the hoopings are done with double blocks and what i mean by that is you'll get an embroidery file that completes one full block just like this and then you'll take a piece of embroidery tape and fold this over that's your cutting allowance there and then it will start the embroidery design all over again for the second block this is a great use of your scrap fabrics i made all of this with scrap fabrics out of my stash and at the time that i'm making this video which is october of 2021 i am working with rebs fab stash to create a kit for you if you are interested in getting a kit of these fabrics and i will put a link to that below this is also a great time to use scraps of batting now when you go to use a batting i recommend that you use a low loft batting you want something that is preferably like an 80 20 or maybe a hundred percent cotton something that is very thin since this is going to be a table runner or even when you're making placemats if you're using a high loft poly batting you run the risk of things wobbling on it and so the batting that is in all of these blocks is just a thin layer of batting and i have not added any additional batting at all like a second layer of batting between the blocks and the backing i did not do that this is made with just the batting that was put in during the embroidery process if you have a large enough hoop to spread these blocks farther apart maybe a multi-needle and you have in brilliance enthusiast i'll put a video right here that will show you how to edit the stitches that will move these blocks farther apart i've got a 9x14 hoop here and i could have done it with this one but you can move the blocks farther apart and then color sort them so that they stitch the same stitch at the same time so it will do the placement line here and the placement line here the tack down for the batting the tack down for the batting the tack down for the fabric and so on so it'll do the same thing over and over and then once you have got them far enough apart you don't have to tape this part down right here and then it can just stitch both of the tops of the blocks at one time that's a great way to make quick work of all of these border blocks okay that's it so we're gonna get started on this i'm gonna show you what i did to make this actual table runner i think you're gonna really enjoy the process i hope you have fun with it and let's get started once you've made your purchase at designsbyjuju.com you can go to this top menu bar up here and you have my orders or my downloads and that's where you can find your pattern that you purchased or you might get an email with it in there as well and you want to click download and when you click download you get a choice you can download all the formats or you can just download the format for your machine and mine is pes i don't need all that other stuff so i'm just going to click pes and what's going to happen is you will get a download notification depending on your version of windows or on your computer it will go to where your downloads always go and if it goes in a folder that looks like this or in a window that looks like this don't click on open file because you won't be able to use the files they are in a zip format so you need to go to the folder itself and that will take you to your downloads and you want to make sure that it's highlighted and you can see the little zipper on the file you need to extract it in order to be able to use the files inside the zip folder we're going to right click and in the menu it says extract all and it wants to know where do you want to extract them to i'm actually going to click browse otherwise it's going to go directly into my downloads and that's not where i want to save the actual files i'm going to click browse and i'm going to go into my documents and in my documents i have an embroidery folder and then i have a folder for fall and that's where i'm going to put these i'm going to select this folder and then click extract and it's going to extract them and then you can go to the folder where you save them let me click on embroidery and go back to fall and what comes with it is some pictures thumbnail pictures there is a legal document from designs by juju here are the instructions you will need to print these out and then there are some color charts that you can use if you want to use their colors or you can use your own colors whatever you want and here is my file with the embroidery designs it says pes so i'm going to double click this and open it up now if you look some of these files are for the five by seven it says it right here and some of them are for the six by ten so it's really important that you only grab the files that you are going to use and not accidentally stitch out the wrong kind and then maybe waste fabric and you may not have a whole lot of fabric so what i recommend that you do is somewhere in the white part of the screen right click on it and the menu that comes up click on new and then click on folder and the new folder wants a name i'm going to call it 5x7 files and hit enter and now i have this new folder for 5x7 so all of the designs that are 5x7 i'm going to highlight this one i'm going to hold down my control key and doing that's going to allow me to individually click on and choose just the ones i want that are five by sevens you don't have to do this this is just an easy way to manage your design files i'm going to take all of these now i let go of the control key i'm going to click on one of them hold my mouse down and look it's dragging 10 files over to the 5x7 and there all of the 5x7 files are now in the 5x7 folder i'm going to go back click the back arrow up here and here are all of my 6x10 blocks you need to have a usb drive installed into your computer and i can see it in my little menu right here and i am just going to highlight the first one hold down the shift key not control but the shift it will select everything in between the first and last one that you chose so i'm going to hold down my shift key and click the thankful and see that selects everything in between and i'm just going to grab a hold of one of these and drag it over to the usb and see it says copy it doesn't say move so your computer knows that it only needs to copy files to a usb and not move them so these files are still permanently in the folder that you put them in when you extracted them from the zip file and then if i click my usb there are all of my files that i need in order to make the table runner this finishes at 15 by 41 and the first thing i did was printed out the instructions on the second page of the instructions it gives you all of your cutting requirements and i labeled mine a through f i used alphabities to correspond to the a through f over there on the instructions so these are the border blocks and i've got 12 pieces of batting and 12 pieces of fabric all cut out and here are the pumpkin blocks this is the batting the pumpkins and the background and the pumpkins are backed with heat n bond because i'm going to cut these out using this scan and cut and i'll be creating the svg files using in brilliance essentials letter c is the sunflower blocks and these are straight embroidery there's no applique on these at all so there's two pieces of batting and two pieces of fabric the swirl blocks also are no applique so it's just two pieces of batting and two pieces of fabric and this is the leaf blocks so there's four pieces of batting four leaf fabrics that are backed in heat and bond because i'm going to cut them out with the scan and cut and then four backing fabrics background fabrics for the leaves i have a real pretty piece of yardage i'm going to use for the backing and it will also be the binding because this is a self-binding project i'm here at the brother luminaire and what i'm about to show you is how to make the border blocks and they make two at a time in the same hooping you can use a six by ten hoop i don't have one this is my nine by fourteen but this will fit into a six by ten hoop i have backed my fabrics with a fusible woven like sf101 from pellon i highly recommend that you do that to these because the stitching in the all of the blocks it has heavy satin stitching and that can give you some tugging and so it's best to go ahead and put some sf101 on the back of all of your fabric pieces and then as i mentioned earlier this is a great use for scraps i actually used a join stitch on my sewing machine and joined a couple of scraps together of some batting so this is perfect for those little scraps and i'm going to um just go ahead and activate the machine and i have a black thread in so that you can see better so i'm going to go to embroidery and the pocket for memory and i have all of my designs on a usb and here they are the border top and sides and this is for six by ten hoop you'll do the same thing for the 5x7 and i'm just going to touch embroidery it's that simple to just load it in your machine and we are ready to go i have isocord thread in my machine i'm using an organ 7511 ebbr embroidery needle and i have a 90 weight bobbin pre-wound bobbin in the bobbin case and um i'm ready to go alright you're going to take a piece of batting and put it down over the placement stitch you want to make sure that your batting extends outside of the line by about half an inch on each side and each end and now it's going to do the batting tack down stitch now you want to remove the hoop from the machine and trim around the outside of the batting you want to use a firm surface i like to use my quilter's cut and press and on your lap or on a table and that way you don't accidentally pop the stabilizer out of the hoop if you do if you accidentally pop the stabilizer out you're going to have to start over so now i'm going to use a pair of curved embroidery scissors and you put the flat part of the scissor straight down and kind of pull up gently on what you're cutting and trim right next to that stitch line if you trim the stitches a little bit that's okay try not to and now you want to take a piece of your fabric and lay it right on top make sure you can feel at least like an inch on either side and either end and just put that on there if you're not comfortable leaving it like this you can take a little piece of embroidery tape and put it on each end but this should stick pretty well i'm doing a thread color change to yellow and i'm going to pull the thread from in front of the needle until i pull the yellow through and then thread the needle we're ready to go the next stitch is the cross hatch background quilting i'm just going to let it go this is going to take three minutes the next stitch is the batting placement line for the next panel so i'm going to take a piece of embroidery tape and i'm just going to fold this back and get this seam allowance here out of the way just fold it back and tape it all right and now it's going to do the next one i'm not going to change my thread color if you're doing one that has lettering in here like the thankful grateful or blessed you would go ahead and finish stitching that it's very simple to do with this straight embroidery and then put your batting down and you can just kind of butt it up against the edge of the one next to it remove your hoop and trim away the outside batting once you've trimmed away the batting put your fabric on top of the block and make sure it sticks over especially on the inside by three quarters two of an inch to a full inch so that you have enough for trimming and you can feel you have enough on either end and you're ready to go it's going to tack down the fabric and then complete the rest of the embroidery stitching and the next stitch is the crosshatch background quilting so okay we're all finished with this you can take the hoop out and then we'll take them out of the hoop and trim them up very nice okay first thing i'm gonna do is cut them apart very carefully i'm just running my rotary cutter right between them be very careful not to cut into any of the fabric there and you want to trim one half inch away from the outer stitch line on all four sides all right there's one and here's number two awesome okay i need to make two more sets of these and then the rest of them with all the letters on them i'm going to put in my 9 by 14 hoop and i have my hoop hooped with no show poly mesh which i'm going to use to make both of these leaf blocks and behind my machine i have all of my threads set on that thread tree i have that thread tree is on my amazon store if you are interested in getting yourself one they're very handy i'm going to go to embroidery and the pocket for memory and then i'm going to touch the usb and there are my leaves so i'll just choose this one right here doesn't matter which one right or left i just need to do one or the other these blocks are identical with the exception of the way the stems are facing and the way the leaves are turned so it doesn't matter which color you put where and it doesn't matter what thread color you use where you just need to make sure that your four blocks are different however you want to do them so i'm going to touch set so i am going to be doing my yellow leaf on brown and my green leaf on beige need to hit embroidery and now we're ready and the button turned green so we're ready to go so here is the placement line for the batting and i'm going to put this down i'm going to cover the placement line by at least half an inch on each side and then also you can roll it up this way and make sure you're centered like that there we go and it's going to tuck it down and probably run around twice i think here's our fabric tack down so you want to put your fabric on you don't need to pin it or tape it or anything yeah i should have trimmed the batting i'll do that in a minute and here's the placement line for the leaf i just ironed down my leaf and it looks like it's fitting pretty good now we're going to do the tack down stitch for the leaf okay i can tell on here there are a couple of places let me get you in here real close so you can see i got a couple of places on this leaf where i have really a lot of fabric probably from stretching when i pulled it off the mat so i'm just gonna pull that up with my fingernail a little bit and just trim it and like i said i will do this little micro trimming all day long before uh you know actually going through the grief and agony of cutting these out it's not really a lot generally the satin finishing stitch is like three millimeters and this should all cover no problem but i just i'm going to these these little bit bigger parts that are sticking out you really don't want fabric sticking out from the edge of your final satin stitch okay there that's sorry about that that's a little bit better everything else i think is going to be just fine i'll let that focus so see it's outside like a little bit right here but i think that that's okay i don't think any of that is going to show outside of the satin stitching i want my background quilting actually to be a different color than the leaf so i'm going to do a thread color change what's nice with these is the background quilting comes with the design you don't have to go looking around for something else to put on there it is part of the design just all right we're ready to go okay that looks good and now we're gonna do the final satin stitching for the leaf and i'm going to do another thread color change oh wait a minute oh yeah well i have got a lot of tugging going on i can see it here i'm going to stop the machine real quick i'm going to cut the thread i'm going to do something really unconventional and i am going to iron on some fusible woven onto the back of this stabilizer right now and then i because i didn't put any on this and i should have so let's give this a try and see if it works what i did was i cut out a piece of fusible woven stabilizer and i ironed it on to the back of the stabilizer the poly mesh and first i did it from the front with a press cloth and then i flipped the hoop over i put several thicknesses of batting up under it to support it and then i ironed it from the back i was not liking all the tugging that was going on that was not good at all i'm going to take my screwdriver here and really tighten this up because this was too loose there we go yeah we were having some movement i wasn't real happy with okay don't be afraid to stop in the middle of something and say you know this just doesn't feel right see look at these drag lines can you see the drag lines i don't know from your angle if you can or not they're right here see that those drag lines that's not cool so all right let's uh start again and see how we do that's just going to give the back of that block just a little bit more stability i'm going to put the stabilizer fusible woven on the back of the rest of the leaf blocks right now okay so the next stitch is the placement line for the batting for the next block i'm just going to leave the same thread color because it doesn't matter right now okay so the way i'm going to build these is to first i'm going to put all the leaves together and then i'm going to add the borders on each leaf end of each leaf section then i'm going to sew the swirls and the sunflowers together and add a grateful and a thankful onto that so i'm going to build each section one at a time and then sew all the sections together okay when you put these together and you're looking at them from the back huh oh i did that one backwards didn't i yeah you want to align this stitch line right here and then you want to make sure that you sew just inside that stitch line so that the stitch line is captured in the seam allowance so i need the brown leaf and the orange leaf together that's these two and they need to go with their little stems kind of facing toward one another i guess it doesn't matter so long as you have all the stems facing toward the center is the way the designer has them and this looks fine to me to do it just like this i'm going to match up and i'm going to pin i'm going to put a pin in this corner and i'm going to put a pin in this corner can you see what i'm doing so a pin goes right here and a pin goes right there and you match those up and then you get that pin horizontal and then you're going to go in one side of the seam line and out the other with another pin same goes down here put the pin at the corner and put the pin in the corner get that pin horizontal and then take another pin and go in one side of the seam line and out the other that anchors them together so that you know that those seam lines are going to match and then you just have to sew right on the inside of that stitch line don't go over your pins especially if you have a single needle hole machine like me let's see oh that looks great see that that looks perfect and then the seams we're gonna press them open and if you have another little handy tool is uh one of these little seam press rollers these are handy for this kind of thing because you've got bulky seams and that helps them to remember where you want them to go and stay open that's very handy to have okay let me do the other two now that looks great look even the echo quilting lines can you see that even the echo quilting lines match up how about that that's the way to do that that looks great now this one i forgot to put the fusible woven on before i did the fabric so i put it on on on the bottom of the hoop so now i've got to put my glasses on so i can see what i'm doing so i'm going to put my pin in here right at the corner okay put that in on the corner put that in on the corner get them horizontal get that pin horizontal in one side of the you know what i'm going to stitch it from the other side because i can't see get that pin horizontal and then go in one side of the seam and out the other and then here there get that horizontal in one side out the other all right and stitch right on the inside of that seam like one stitch width away from that stitch line right next to it i can still see the stitch line in the toe of the foot that looks good again even the echo quilting lines are matched up perfect so continue to do this looks great now these are going to be sewn like this i'm going to take the pin go in the corner come out the corner don't even try to match up those seam allowances at all you're matching the stitch line in one side of the seam and out the other you definitely want to mock your usual okay i'm going to put this pin in right here and i'm going to have i'm going to put it in this other one right across from it because i have to match these up now i'm going to pin the seam allowances so they don't go all over the pouch all over the place okay and then pin this corner like this like that and one side out the other there okay that should work let's see how it looks that's pretty good i like it that'll work okay i'm gonna continue on and uh put the borders on this piece let me get this and the borders that go on this piece are plain again same process all right take a pin put it in the corner put it in the corner get that pin horizontal don't worry about the seam allowances being the same you're not marrying up the seam allowances on these long stretches right here you're going to want to pin every couple of inches just to make sure you capture all those side seams in the seam allowance that looks great okay i'm going to continue to do this and get this thing built but this is exactly how you do it when it comes time to pressing your seams open and you've got a lot of bulk in here you may want to get a pair of scissors and where you've got this big bulk right here cut two but not through the stitch line on both sides this side and this this side and then what i do is press these open finger press see and they'll lay nice and flat like that i use a piece of parchment paper just to be sure that my iron doesn't get anything stuck to it from the back sometimes stabilizer can melt if your iron is too hot so you press both of these open like this and then flip it over now it's nice and flat now you can use some steam if you like if your iron is not too hot the synthetic threads can take the steam without really any problem so then i put a clapper on it and that's going to make it nice and flat and that's what i'm after that looks pretty good now do the same to this side see if you just try to push it it's pretty lumpy so the back of it now looks like this i got a little so now the seams are all pressed nice and flat on the back and put some steam on it and then press it down with a clapper yeah that looks really nice really nice nice and flat smooth looks great okay i'm ready to put this whole thing together now okay i have a steam seam two here and this is the way that i like to finish my runners like this i'm gonna take this and run it just on the outside of the seam line and the outer stitching line and my not all of my seam allowances were the same so i trimmed everything down approximately to a quarter of an inch so like on this one the quarter of an inch is a little bit bigger than this one but they're fairly straight this is not an exact science but i put stimucine down and it's kind of a double sticky get that like that and then it comes off easier when it's warm than when it's cold so i like to move the iron just a little bit and pull if you let it cool off it'll give you attitude when you try to pull it off there we go okay good so then what i do is i'll fold this in to the edge my backing i just fold it into the edge and then i'll fold it up and put it just onto or over the stitch line depending on where we're at with it you know but i but the idea is to have everything look as uniform and straight as possible on the binding it's kind of a little bit of an optical illusion it does not matter if it fits up and butts up completely tight to the runner so long as the binding looks the same width all the way across that looks really good yeah that looks really good okay i'm gonna do the other side yeah that looks beautiful okay whenever you're doing this you always want to glue it first it just makes life so much easier oh my goodness i can hear my dog snoring in the background but i can everybody's had something to eat and they're down for a nap very nice very nice okay so for the mitered corners what i normally do you only put the steam a seam on the yellow part you don't put it on to the binding and what i normally will do is go ahead and fold it over and over testing to make sure i get the miter exactly like i want it and a lot of times it takes a couple of times to get it right and then when you get it right you want to iron that and have it have it be exactly like you want and it's a little game to play with the width of the binding and the angle of the fold because we're not computers and we don't do everything exact so i need to trim some of this off i've got a longer side over on one side than the other and that's going to cause a problem so in a perfect world you'd fold that in and fold this in and fold it all up and it would meet perfectly but mine doesn't so i'm just going to play with it until it does and then i will fold it and put the stima seam on there we go that's what i'm looking for so i'm going to steam in those creases so that's exactly the way i want it i want to do a blanket stitch on this and on the luminaire i'm on the quilting stitches number 13. it calls it the shell tuck edge so it's going to blanket stitch this direction instead of that direction like you do on applique okay you guys that's it this was awesome i really enjoyed making it it's going to look beautiful on my table this year and every year so we'll talk to you soon go sew something bye

Channel: Power Tools with Thread

Views: 18,788

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Id: i80mjfbc4Vg

Length: 49min 16sec (2956 seconds)

Published: Sun Oct 03 2021