Turning a 3D Printed THE THING Bust into Concrete

[Music] hi and welcome back so uh i printed this model uh quite a few months ago and the first thing i thought when i saw it was it looked great if this was done in concrete so that's what we're going to do in this video um there are a few um bits that i do need to tidy up on the model just some rough spots from where the support material was connected and i also have to fix one quite big um problem with the model you probably can't quite see it but i'll get a bit closer so you can have a look okay so the problem i'll try point it out to you it's somewhere around uh right there okay so i'll explain what happened there's uh no problem with the file or the model it was just my own error i ran out of filament so i paused the print and did a filament change over resumed the print uh but didn't realize that i'd knocked the head slightly off so i had to uh cancel the print but i wasn't going to waste all that filament and print time so i put the model into mesh mixer and just cut it off where the mess up that happened and i ended up with the top part of the head which then i reprinted and it fits on there perfectly so it's a pretty good save really so all i have to do now is uh glue it back on and i'll use some filler to fill in the seam line and it should be okay um to work with while i'm doing that i will play the time lapse for this 3d print and once that's done should be ready for the next part [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] okay so i finished fixing the model and then i went ahead and stuck them both down to a sheet of pvc that's just so they don't move the model doesn't move around while i'm working on them so what i'm going to do is make a glove mold out of latex rubber and i've got five liters of it which is more than enough i've also got quite a large coffee jar what i'll do is i'll pour the latex into this and then whenever i finished uh doing a coat i'll just seal it up uh leave the brush in there so i can reuse it i've also got a piece of paper with head and base that's so i can tally up how many coats each one has got which i think it will take about 30 coats to get a three to four millimeter thickness so i'm going to get my latex poured out and start getting some coats on [Music] [Music] [Music] okay guys i've got a couple of coats on um it's taking quite a while to dry between coats the base is drying a lot quicker that's on three coats at the moment and the head has uh only just got its second coat on and i've worked out i can roughly do about four coats a day so it's going to take me all week to get 30 uh coats on which i'm not going to fill more 30 coats so what i'm going to do is just uh skip to the end and we'll see how it looks all right guys i've managed to get 30 coats on it uh didn't take too long about five days altogether and i uh i sped up the uh process um by having a fan on it in between coats so now i've got to leave this for about 72 hours to dry i might leave it a couple more days because it's quite cold out here and i want it to properly uh cure and as for the base um the base is not done um i had about 10 coats on the base and then i came out to do a coat and i noticed the latex was uh starting to come away from the model so i peeled it all off and i decided to go with a silicone mold for the base which i had left over from a previous build so i've built this cardboard container it was just out of a plain sheet which then i rolled up and made round and then i went around with some double-sided tape and hot glue just to keep it all in place so i'm gonna get all the stuff i need to mix up this silicone and we'll get pour in it [Music] [Music] bye [Music] hey [Music] okay guys everything's now dried so the first thing we're going to do is uh we're going to get the base out of the mold and see how it looks and then we'll move on to the the head [Music] so [Music] okay guys the base turned out great that's just uh waiting for some uh concrete to be poured into it but uh we're gonna have to finish off the head first what i'm gonna have to do is do a uh two-part mother mold using uh plaster of paris uh bandages i've got some here these are eight centimeter by three meter long and i've cut them into strips which are about 10 inches in length and they're two layers thick you're going to need some water and vaseline and i've got one long piece here and that's going to be the main seam line that will go down the center and i've also folded the edge so i haven't got a frayed uh edge so i'm going to start getting it uh applied and see how it looks [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] so [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] okay guys i've demolded everything that's the original print over there and here we've got the mother mold and the latex mold and i've also sprayed a release agent in there which was made out of 70 alcohol and castor oil i just mix that up in a little spray bottle and i put some elastic bands around just to keep it all in place so we're going to mix up some concrete now the concrete i'm going to go with is uh one part cement two parts and and one part uh gravel this is the uh sand and cement i'm using uh hanson play pit sand and hanson multi cement and that's the gravel which is uh it's meant for uh fish tanks but i think it works great for doing these little models and then this buckets here are filled with sand i'm gonna put the mother mold upside down in that and it'll support it quite nicely so i'm going to get this cement mixed up now and get it poured [Music] so [Music] [Music] [Music] okay guys i managed to get all the concrete uh poured uh i had to use a lot more than i expected originally i just filled uh one of these tubs but in the end i actually ended up using three so i'm gonna have to order some more uh sand but uh i just gotta wait now for these to uh dry i'll probably give them three days or so i'm not totally sure how well this one's doing um the plaster of paris bandages mother mold i'm not sure whether it's strong enough for the amount of weight of the concrete but we'll have to see so we'll check back in a few days okay guys it's been three days and i went ahead and demolded everything and we got off to uh concrete um parts right here got the uh base which uh it came out really nicely there's a few uh holes on top from air bubbles but the uh the next one that i cast i'm i'm gonna try and play around with the mixture a little bit and uh maybe vibrate it more to get rid of that but uh that came out really nicely they're both quite a dark color but that's because they're um very wet they will lighten up and as for the head it's a perfect copy of the original 3d print but there are some defects on top of the head there's some pinholes from uh air bubbles so i'm not sure what i'm gonna do with that whether i'm gonna fix it or just cast another one but underneath the chin as well is uh it's quite poor quality a lot of air balls um i think i just gotta play with the concrete mix a little bit more and uh vibrate it more and that should improve the quality i'll just give you a little spin around of the entire model yeah so it weighs quite a bit i haven't actually weighed it yet but it's at least uh five kilograms more in weight the um latex uh mold worked perfectly it came off really nicely and it's not damaged in any uh anyway so i've just got to uh wash that out and it'll be ready to go again the uh plaster of bandage uh mother mold i'm not gonna get much use out of this i don't think it's already starting to uh weaken in some areas the only thing i can think i can do is strengthen it with some fiberglass which i've got coming so once i fix that up i'll be ready to cast some more but uh i'm also waiting for some more sand because i didn't realize how much it was going to use so once i've got those things done i'll be casting some more okay guys so i got some fiberglass and i have reinforced the mother mold it's still got the plaster of paris bandage mould underneath i've just done fiberglass on top but it's a lot stronger and i've got my uh sand now so i'm gonna see if i can make another three of these um figures and uh see how they look [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] do [Music] [Music] so do [Music] [Music] do [Music] okay so we've got a model here and it's uh nice and dried now so we're going to start getting some color on i've got to prep the surface first and i'm going to be using liquitex surface primer this will prime and also seal the model so no dust will come off it and i've mixed that up with some water it's about 50 50 and i'm just going to apply that with just a cheap paintbrush should be able to do the entire model with just this brush so i'm going to get cracking applying that [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] okay guys so uh i've got the uh primer on and i've given it 24 hours to dry now i'm going to start uh getting some color on now i've got some cheap acrylic paint here uh red brown orange and blue and for the first color i'm going to mix together um red and brown and apply that all over making sure to get into all the nooks and crannies all the cracks and everything and then once that's dried i'll uh mix up a different color i think it'll be brown and orange for the second color and then finally i think it'll be a dry brush of orange on top of that so let's get the paint mixed up and we'll get cracking [Music] my [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] okay guys so for the next coat i've mixed together uh brown and orange to make a very uh lightish orangey brown color and i'm gonna go all over with that but avoiding the nuts and crannies so it's going to be quite a light coat because i still want some of this color to show through [Music] right [Music] [Music] okay guys so we're gonna dry brush some orange on now what i'll do is i'm going to do it in layers so i'll just gradually build up the orange until i think it's at the right shade and then we'll be pretty much done it looks quite dark on camera it's not picking up all the uh the different layers of color in it but uh it's looking quite good now so i'm just gonna get this dry brushing done [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] okay guys the eyes are now done it took a few attempts to uh get the expression right in his eyes but uh i think i've got it now they look quite good so i'm going to move on to the base now i'm going to dry brush it with a little bit of light blue and then once i've done that i've got some three mil foam this piece is cut out to go on top and then i've got a big piece for the base uh that should protect whatever surface the uh the base is put on and this piece will protect that bit from the uh the weight of the model on top so i'm just going to get this dry brushing done now [Music] okay guys the base is now done um i was thinking it uh looked a little bit uh plain um a bit bare so i went onto thingiverse and found these fantastic four logos and what i did was i took it into mesh mixer and merged it into the model which gave me the contours on the back like that so i should be able to just stick it on i would have liked to have casted the the logo in concrete with the rest of the base but i've only had that idea later on so sticking it on should be all right and then once i've done that uh we'll be done i'll just have to finish off the rest of the models and that's the end of this project so i'm just going to get this stuck on now [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] okay guys the finally finished and i'm really pleased with how they turned out uh this build did take me quite some time to complete there was quite a lot of drying involved first i had to wait for the latex mold to fully dry which was about two weeks i didn't want to risk demolding it prematurely and damaging it and it also took about a week to apply the 30 coats so that was about three weeks just for the latex i then had to make a plaster bandage mother mold and that took about a week to fully dry and then the concrete casts needed about three days before they could be demolded and then about two weeks to fully dry before i could start painting them so all in all it's quite a long project but i think it's very much worth it you can find a link below to all the materials i used and there's also a link to the stl file and there's also a link to um tom quash i think his name is on his instagram profile he did an amazing job 3d modelling this model so go give him a follow now i'm giving away three of these models and i decided to use them to kick start my patreon page which is currently at zero patreons so if you would like to support the channel and possibly win a awesome model then go check out out there's a link below the reason i'm asking for support with this is because the models each weigh up close to 10 kilograms so it's gonna gonna cost quite a lot shipping them so that's why i was just asking for a little bit of help with it if you have any questions or comments then leave them below please give this video a like and consider subscribing you can also follow me on instagram uh you can see what i'm working on before i actually post videos on youtube uh thanks for watching and i'll catch you in the next build [Music] you

Channel: Filament Forge

Views: 62,917

Keywords: 3DPRINTING, 3DPRINTED, 3DPRINTERS, PLAFILAMENT, FORMBOTTREX2+, STLFILE, 3DMODELING, FANTASTICFOUR, THETHING, MARVELCOMICS, MARVELUNIVERSE, MCU, Michael Bailey Smith, Michael Chiklis, Mutate, Ben Grimm, superhero, Stan Lee, Jack Kirby, Avengers, Human Torch, FDM, additive manufacturing, three-dimensional, CONCRETECASTING, concreteart, concretefigure, concretemix, latexmold, siliconemold, figurine, nerd, collectables, spiderman, ironman, hulkvsthething, hulk, silversurfer

Id: nwjsi_GuEJs

Length: 40min 56sec (2456 seconds)

Published: Sun May 03 2020