Turbo M52 E30 First Start and REAL Driving

here i have everything fully on the engine oil pan is bolted on turbo manifold is bolted on valve cover is just sitting there but wire harness is in transmission is on obviously clutch and everything is on and it's fully ready to get dropped in so took a little bit because the engine sits so sideways but she's in it's so weird having this like i could literally just come right up in front of it with no corsa where it's so nice but i didn't scratch anything thankfully transmission's bolted in so now i'm just cleaning up the wiring getting it all good and then i can put the turbo on run the oil drain that's down there finish it all up quick little update i'm just running new silicone vacuum hoses around like this is a super thick one for my map sensor because i would dislike the most important line for the whole for the whole car this is a new line right up to here boost gauge is ran into the car and then one line to the fuel pressure regulator and that'll be the three there and then boost gauge right here with the restricted valve blow-off valve right here and map sensor right here and this can connect to the boot and all that can just get installed right there but first i want to make sure everything is all good engine mods are tight which they're not right now and then also i need to put the valve cover on so just small tedious stuff that i'm just gonna skip over so this is as far as i'm gonna get tonight got the downpipe in it still fits and everything got the turbo one got one intercooler piping in got the intake manifold just resting there because as you can see it's hitting on the booster so this is an e36 m52 throttle body on an m50 intake manifold so i don't know if this issue would still be here if this was an m50 throttle body but it is hitting right there so i'm gonna try and figure something out tomorrow that's a beautiful sight got the vibrant intercooler all plugged in everything is all somewhat tight this intercooler is wider now so the piping over here is a lot closer to the abs and kinking over here so i'm gonna have to figure that out i still haven't connected the throttle cable but i got the fuel lines in injectors in fuel pressure regulator i want to try and mount it up here so it'll be easier so i'll flip these lines around after and yeah now i guess i can just i have no spark plugs in and i have no coil packs on because i want to rotate the engine around until oil comes out through here and then once the car has oil pressure i'll put this on put the spark plugs in and i can try and actually start it so i'm going to see if it cranks okay it does that's a good sign my guy is holding the oil feed up and i'm just going to crank it until she goes one of the computer updates it battery's loving it so there you go oil is coming out after like 40 uncomfortable seconds of cranking now i can put that on put the spark plugs in put the coil pack on make sure everything is good all right so what had happened was the ecu isn't getting detected right now whenever i have the key on and i think it's because i didn't have any other coil packs in and on a form someone says that this wire right here is a ground for the ecu apparently or some so now that everything's in i can actually hear it crank with compression and everything hopefully with compression and see what's good so i'm having this issue right here could not find the ecu ignitions on so it should be getting so i'm just trying to find the ground or something that isn't connected a few minutes later now that's in like an hour i'm realizing that this main relay isn't clicking neither is the fuel pump the main relay gives power to the fuel pump and i took both of them off tested them with the battery and both of them are clicking and we came to find out that this signal right here the main relay gets its signal through ground right here this ground gets powered through the ecu and i even tried my old ecu over there that's not the standalone and it still wouldn't give it signal or and it wouldn't click so i'm assuming that's why it's not finding the ecu with the computer so i need to figure out what's good with that and maybe it's just a missing ground but i can only this harness only has one ground right here so i'm just gonna keep looking all right huge news so i've been chasing my tail for like a day now trying to see why i wasn't getting any earth signal at the main relay so i checked that over here pin number seven the thick green wire on e30s is the ignition switch basically like what gives power to everything it gives power to the ecu gives power to here gives power to all the sensors and everything and another pin controls this starter so it's completely separate so i was like oh the starter is getting signal so obviously everything else is getting signal wrong i took this and i asked the god of e30 m52 swap wire harness blake minson hit him up on facebook if you need your engine harness to be shaved swapped everything for if you need your m52 in the e30 because he did everything you just sent it to him and he gives you the harness back completely done labeled and everything with everything good he's a genius he told me pin number seven should have 12 volts always so because it that does not have 12 volts i then realized the issue has to be under the dash and i found right here green wire disconnected so for that to work i need to have that wire give power over there whatever makes sense so i checked with this and he said yeah if one cable over here if one of them has 12 volts and the other doesn't just loop them together and you will have hopefully a working car so i'm gonna do that so right here i have the two green wires it's really dark right now sorry but key is off right now and then when i turn the key on it gets 12 volts so i'm going to connect these two wires right here and hopefully the car will start then so i just got the wires crimped inside the car now when i connect the ground over here 12 volts baby that's what i look well 11 because battery's a little weak but so now with the key off no 12 volts that's huge so now in theory those relays should click oh can the fuel pump turned on let's go baby oh it's gonna start oh let's go now that i crimped that green wire ecu connected let's go baby this is huge all right now i can actually try and start it so since i'm alone i'm just gonna try and check for leaks check the air fuel ratio check the fuel pressure make sure everything is looking kind of decent so i'm just gonna prop you guys up here and i'm gonna go try this good sign fuel pressure was at like 25 because i pulled the knob back because it was at like a hundred psi so now i could put it back to where it was because i didn't want it to have too much fuel pressure fuel pressure's not that bad no major leaks oh that was stressful checking all that out by myself so i don't have a i don't have a belt on so the alternator wasn't spinning because i don't have any water in it because i cracked this thermostat housing a new one should come tomorrow so tomorrow i can change this thermostat housing cut cooling on it put the radiator support on put the radiator on finish everything up it starts it runs it revs it does everything like it should now i can actually finish putting the whole car together i'm so excited so it still has the super cheap oil that i want to have for the first startup and it did get to around 61 degrees celsius i want to get it up to full temp and then have the fan control the the coolant at that point and then i'll flush it because i don't know if metals break down more once they're at different temperatures so i'm gonna leave that breaking oil in not gonna start it anymore and tomorrow once i get this thermostat housing replaced get coolant in it get everything good and then i'll get one more heat cycle in it cool it off take that valve cover off make sure all the head studs are tight still and then that is when i can go for the first drive so now that the first start was a success i have this fat list of stuff that i have to do just boring stuff so i'm gonna just grind away at this and get it done because i know you guys all want to see me drive this one thing i do want to show is i'm wearing in a relay right there for my electric fan because i want the ecu to be able to control this fan so the ecu gives a ground signal and that ground signal is represented with this black right here i just got to run this into the cabin into the ecu and i wired in the power big red cable goes all the way around into this circuit breaker right here and that circuit breaker connects into the starter cable right there i have the fan wired in to the stock switch right here so it's getting its ground for the fan through the chassis right there and then the red wire which is the power for this i have it i cut the wire off of the blue crimped it on and then this is the power that goes from over there into here and then the ignition switch power for the relay i tapped into the abs right here it's pin number 10 when you pull it off and number 10 though yellow and red wire is the one that gives the ignition switch so the brown wire coming off of that is the ignition and then once the ecu gives this ground signal over here i'm just grounding the wire in i also want to show you guys this is the one that cracked right here i was tightening it because i had the thermostat backwards but both of these are euro and this one cracked right there and look at how small that hole is on this one my old one tiny and like rough ass cuts everywhere just looks really bad and then this new one it's like polished on that end and there it's nicely cut the hole is way bigger so maybe it was a good thing that this thing cracked because look at that hole update a few hours later got the intercooler in this boot is all collapsed but i'm gonna trim like an inch off of this side and hopefully that'll get better because when the intercooler is like a little bit that way the tube is good but that's in your radiator is in i just have this line off so i can fill the engine up through here and then fill the radiator through there and then i can fill this up from there check valve for the vacuum right here so last time when i was running the engine it was with this big-ass vacuum leak so hopefully it runs better now i still need to bleed the brakes and everything and bleed the clutch but the throttle cable down there i broke the out of it and there's some electrical tape you can see it right there i got it rigged up so that it works but it feels horrible like it just feels so gritty and bad so i'm gonna try and fix that down the line but it's basically ready for me to start it with coolant which i'm just gonna use water right now in case if anything starts leaking i'm gonna fill the engine first do the upper radiator hose and i got it jacked up it's really high so got some water water as well because if i put coolant in here and say that flange starts because my boys had a problem with this warping if that warps and all that coolant goes everywhere it's bad news blue new pressure's a little low now i don't have any vacuum leaks and it's idling so smooth i just have this bubbling right now until that goes down and once the thermostat opens all that cooling will get sucked in but it's idling so smooth i got it up to temp revved it a little bit bottom radiator hose is warm now so thermostat opened so i can get this cheap-ass oil out and put the nice breaking oil in it's a good sign though i don't see anything crazy in it it's relatively clean right there i got the valve cover off because i want to re-tighten the head after the first oil change and none of my sockets fit it has to be a 12 point 12 millimeter and none of them fit literally gets stuck on the on the cam tray so i'm probably gonna have to pull the cams out which is so annoying i really don't want to do that but i have to re-tighten the head i got a lot done fenders are on radiator is welded in and that's primed and i welded these brackets in because there's not a lot of space fan isn't connected to the ecu because this relay right here doesn't have a diode or a resistor so i ordered a relay with a resistor so that it doesn't send current back to the ecu and blow the ecu and um got this mounted up with one bolt right there got the brakes bled clutch bled everything is good got this just mounted up with one screw right there oh i forgot this plate needs to get screwed on and all this stupid stuff is done that took two days to do got the break-in oil in now she's ready for a drive that's amazing someone just let it heat up all right 75 degrees i'm gonna just go for it she's cruising 92 celsius that's very good it's not overheating yo this thing is fast bro holy this has a lot of power [Music] i was just doing a quick little visual inspection after the first real hard drive and that thing that i said was plastic that flew out was the banjo for the top of the wastegate slipped right out so i was just driving down the street about to get home and i was going mid rip and it just fuel cut crazy and just died no gas nothing worked so i just coasted all the way down the hill over here literally like two minutes away from my house and i saw no fuel pressure fuel pump fuse is blown i think it's gonna be good now i think it's gonna start it worked let's go it's just a fuel pump fuse holy let me get home bro no don't tell me my fuel pump fuse keeps popping bro so i disconnected my fuel pump put a new fuse in and now it's running so hopefully i can get home let's see jesus let me figure out why that fuel pump fuse keeps blowing so just as a last little final note we took the fuel pump relay out and we checked the amperage from 30 to 87 right here jump them together and i'm getting about 8.7 and 8.9 amps so the 7 amp fuse is 7.5 amp fuse isn't enough so we put in a 10 amp and if this 10 amp one survives and doesn't blow up then i know that the relay kit that i just ordered is 100 gonna fix it because this is only a band-aid it's not really a good idea to change the fuse because then the wires could burn so if this works relay's going to work and we're all set so just a quick story my dad and when i had my other vert he only went in that car once in three years so now that this car is faster why because you never listen to my safety control i don't know about all right yeah that's true now you start listening when you see that no i just correct i'm better at doing my mechanics stuff that was the test car all right this way so i just put it in neutral and let it start it's so loud i don't know how you didn't hear it i don't know you didn't hear it what the hell oh so the good thing about it right now whatever power level it's at it didn't spin in first it didn't spin a second and it was just hooking on 205's so i'm guessing that's probably like three probably like maybe 350 i don't know it's only like 10 pounds of boost but it didn't blow the fuse and we're good so so how do you what do you think about it does it feel good yeah the only thing i don't know we need to fix this muffler yeah but it's 96 today probably feeling like 102. i was gonna do it this weekend it's sunday right now i'm all set so that's gonna be it for this video thank you guys for watching leave a like if you enjoyed it subscribe if you want to stay tuned for more driving videos on this i am going to install the fuel pump relay and have that issue be fixed and never have to worry about it my cousin gave me this sparkle seat and i'm gonna try and adapt to the e30 rails by welding some brackets on there video coming on that i'm gonna try and have a video series of me teaching myself how to drift in this thing because it has a welded diff you know a lot of cool videos reaction video of all my friends feelings on the car the car on the dyno you know all that fun stuff so make sure you stay tuned my instagram is right here if you want to stay up to date with everything that i'm doing and yeah thanks for watching

Channel: ImJoel

Views: 105,794

Rating: 4.9566736 out of 5

Keywords: turbo, e30, e36, rip, bmw, ebay, ZF, 2.93, Welded diff, 328i, 330i, e46, m54b30, m52b28, rebuild

Id: t1l8uR7PVJU

Length: 25min 16sec (1516 seconds)

Published: Sun Jul 26 2020