Traveler Crochet Sweater Pattern Tutorial

welcome welcome welcome to a another fun  video i cannot tell you how excited i am   about the traveler sweater it's been such a joy  to design um i'm very proud of it i cannot wait   to wear it more as the weather cools down for  us here in florida if you didn't catch it i'm   sure you did on the intro this video but this is  what we will be working on today i think the yolk   is what makes this sweater super special this is  the size large this was my first go at designing   it and now i'm going to be creating a video and  in this video i will be creating the size small   for the large you can see what colors i chose  i'm choosing different colors over here to do   the size small so let's talk about what we will  need today we will obviously be needing some yarn   i went with the super wash wool of the andes  from we crochet i have a link for that in the   pattern and on the blog i have really adored  all the colors of this especially with doing   a color work sweater i do find going with the  right wool will make it really nice and define   those stitches and this is just perfect for this  project i also like the price point of these   and play around with the colors i think choosing  the colors was obviously the hardest part   which means i'm making more than one and i even  have another combination that i really want to   see that i thought would be cute and that's like  a shade of purple to pink i just uh i'm staring   at it in my cart and thinking do i make a third  so this this will be fun you need your main color   of yarn and then you'll need your three accent  colors in the pattern i will be referring to them   as color b c and d that way when you're working  on it sometimes if i read the color red then i   want to use the color red and it's kind of  confusing so color a b a b c and d so that   it's not too confusing when you mix up whatever  colors you want to do it's easy to name them   i also have included in the pattern that is  available for purchase the color work charts   they make i i love working from charts personally  i think they make it really visually easy to see   where your stitches are increasing on the yoke um  four crochet this will look a little bit more like   a knit chart before crochet i have these little  symbols and when you see that symbol on that color   that is the stitch that you will be placing  two center single crochets into so that will   also show you where to increase this is super  helpful um for this video i will only be doing   the size small so for any other size pick up that  pattern this tutorial is just a guide to go along   with this pattern to help you guide you through  each step yes i have chocolate on my desk because   i feel like today that might be an essential  tool that i need also my husband was so kind   he hit the grocery store for me this morning so  that i could get prepped for this video and picked   me up chocolate how nice was that so that will  definitely be a 12 of you saved through this video   and then of course you will need some crochet  hooks now for this video we're going to start with   i will start with eye working most of the yolk  and eye then for the body i went down a hook size   um just because our stitches are changing we'll be  doing this split the split single crochet stitch   for this top part but for the body to give  us more flexibility and because after a while   the split single crochet does start to shift i'm  going to show you how to prevent some of that but   for the body we will be working single crochets  in the front and the back loop and going down to   an h hook was what was preferred for the gauge now  in the pattern you will see there are two gauges   listed one gauge for the top part and one gauge  for the body because of course we are changing   our hooks and we're changing stitches and when  we change stitches that always affects the gauge   then i also am throwing in here the size g hook as  an option um it's important to match gauge so use   whatever hook to match gauge but i noticed on this  large when i did the sleeves i still yes i need to   weave in my ends how embarrassing i'm sure you  um relate to weaving in ends later but for this   sleeve i did notice if you can see here once i  go back to doing this color work section it kind   of pops out just a little bit even though i stuck  with the h hook so i might on the small try going   down to a g hook to see if i can keep that line  i mean it's really nothing but to keep that line   um without for the stitches not coming out at all  so really it's a little bit of experimenting to   see how you meet gauge with what hook you use but  definitely for the rib we're going to get started   with the eye hook for the collar around the neck  this is a top-down sweater the nice thing about   top down is you can try it on as you go so as  you're working this and before you split for the   sleeves you can keep putting this on and seeing  how you like the fit and adjusting as needed in   this area it is somewhat difficult to adjust  the sizing in the yolk because we are doing   a very specific color work pattern so if you start  going in it seems too big or too small you might   want to adjust the sizing that you're working on  and maybe go up or down a size so i am in love   with this i did not find this pattern um difficult  to do in terms of crocheting we're just working   with two different styles of stitches but they're  both single crochet ones just worked in the split   center and then we have our front and back loops  so they're really in essence pretty basic stitches   slip stitching for the ribbing and i really think  that you can do this look it looks clean it looks   nice so let's get started because i want to  get you rocking and rolling with this beautiful   traveler sweater so to get started with that  collar ribbing we will be starting with our eye   5.5 millimeter hook go up a hook size if needed if  you crochet really tightly i would even say to go   up a hook size for this for the ribbing simply  because we do not want that ribbing to be too   tight that we can't get it around our head and as  we are working on this as we get going be sure to   to try it around your head before continuing on to  the next steps because we want to make sure that   this this ribbon can fit over your head and fit  comfortably so i'm going to start with my eye hook   and my color b yarn or the color that you would  like to pick to have at the top and i'm going   to start by making a slip knot and placing that  onto my hook now this will be worked in rows and   then joined what we will start with is a chain six  i'm going to move my needle scissors over here you   will need your yarn needle and scissors because i  still need to weave in my ends with those so after   chaining six we are going to slip stitch into the  second loop from the hook and across so this will   be a total of five slip stitches and don't do this  too tightly keep them pretty loose for one that   way you can work back into them on the next row  and two we want ribbing that fits around our head   now we will turn our work and chain one so for  row two we will be working in the back loops only   now the back loop is the loop that's farthest  from you our chain one that i just did does   not count that's simply our turning chain the next  stitch i would work in the back loop would be this   loop here we're not doing the front or  in the back together just simply that   back loop so i will slip stitch into that  back loop of each of these five stitches   across now if you did want to  create a neckline that had a   wider ribbing you can do so by just simply  starting with more chains and then working   more stitches but using the same instructions or  even if you wanted a turtleneck you would simply   work with a lot more chains enough that it could  fold over and this could also be a turtleneck   so now that i've slip stitched five in the  back loops only i will turn my work chain one i like to tighten that chain  down a little on the ends   and now i will slip stitch into the back loops  only again so i'm simply repeating row two   and that's what we will continue to do for  this ribbing is slip stitching into the back   loop only across turning chaining one and we keep  on going until we have the length of ribbing that   we need it continues to go and it kind of as you  i have a working a little bit ahead here i have   a little bit of a sample this is what it looks  like it's very stretchy i obviously need to make   this longer for the size small but i just want to  jump ahead here so you can see what it looks like   and we just keep slip stitching into that back  loop only for five stitches and we end up with   this beautiful ribbing now for the size small  we will need to make this as a total of 72 rows   however at 72 rows when you join i want you to  double check if it fits around your head just   to make sure because slip stitching i find most  crocheters will do it at a very different gauge   it's kind of a tough one in terms of getting  the right gauge at times but the nice thing   about ribbing is you can add on to it as much as  you like just to make sure you get that right fit   because when we go on to the next step we're just  going to be working along one side of this and   placing so many stitches anyway so go ahead and  create this small until it's 72 rows 72 rows or   it fits around your head if you were to hold it  together and it slides on now it will slide on   kind of tight because think about any sweater it's  not going to be loose it's just enough to get it   over your head comfortably another trick before i  go make this longer to counting the rows because   sometimes when we're working the slip stitch it's  hard to know how many rows have i done to count   how many rows you've done if you can see this v  ridge that runs along each here so you can see   like there's different ridges every single time  you count these count it as two rows so it would   be like two four six eight rows from here to here  so that's an easier way to count and keep track   of how many rows you've done for the ribbing so  go ahead and work that up and we'll be right back   all right a little bit of chocolate a little  bit of slip stitching and i am ready to join   these two ends so that's what we're going to go  ahead and do now so i'm going to take my beginning   end and my current row i'm going to kind of put  those together here and i'm going to chain one   and now i will be working through the back loop  of my current row and i'm also going to insert   into the loop on my first row so that will  be work now we will be working through both   the first row and our current row just got  to get in there so that we will be joining   them so i will simply yarn over and slip stitch  through both those stitches and then do it again   back loop only from the current row that first  loop from the first row and work those across and there we are so now we have slip stitch join  those together go ahead and make sure that it   can get comfortably around your head if you need  to undo this do a few more rows and do it again   feel free i'm going to go ahead and start on to  this next part which is slip stitching around   one edge of the collar ribbing so i will be slip  stitching for the size small 72 stitches around   i will not be chaining one for a lot of  this pattern we'll be working this now   continuously without chaining which means it's  a great idea right now to grab a stitch marker so since i am slip stitching loosely 72  stitches around that's about one stitch per row   for me since i did 72 rows if you need  a little bit more space just simply skip   skip a row every so often and i do find i  kind of have to really finagle some of these   stitches to make sure i get all 72 in because  remember each of these ridges is two rows   so i'm going to go ahead and mark my first stitch  so that i don't lose it especially since i'm   and then keep on going so simply do  the amount of slip stitches you need   around one edge all the way around being sure not  to make these too tight because if you make them   tight it definitely won't hit fit around your head  and then when we come back we will not be joining   we will be working continuously okay so for this  next round for size small i have 72 slip stitches   all the way around the edge of this collar and  we will also be bringing in our color a into this   so grab your color a because we're going to  be working with that as well so here we go   for the color work section and increasing for  the yolk this is a really a lot of fun i love   seeing this come together so this first row is the  initial part to the fun part i'm going to remove   my stitch marker just so i can get into this first  stitch and for the very first round i will be   working in the back loops only this is technically  round one of the color work part we did our setup   round which was our slip stitches so for the very  first round i'm working in the back loop only   of these slip stitches i will go ahead and single  crochet in color b for the first two stitches   and before i do anything else i'm going to go  ahead and place a stitch marker in that first   stitch it really is important to keep track of  the rounds since we're working continuous we're   not joining we're not chaining one we're working  continuously around so stitch markers are key   now here's my second stitch in color b however  before i complete this stitch i am going to   grab my new color and for the last part of the  stitch i'm going to yarn over and pull through   my new color this is a way i like to use to  change colors between yarns so that it is nice   and clean so i've got my first two stitches my  third stitch of this round will be in my color a   and now i will go back and do color b so i'll  yarn over and finish that previous stitch kind   of pull my yarn down a little bit not too much  and then the next two stitches will be in color   b i'm going to switch back to color a and i will  be working that all the way around working two   stitches in color b and then one stitch in  color a i will note that for this round it's   still important to be working in the way we will  continue to work for these split single crochets   and what i mean by that is that when we work  in that split stitch on the next round we want   to be able to get into our stitches so i tend  to pull up this first loop the yarn over and   i pull up a loop i tend to pull that up a little  bit more than i would on a normal single crochet   what that does is it will give me space in  the next round to get back into that stitch   when we start working into the center of that  stitch for the split stitches so work this all   the way around and come back for round two of the  color work all right so now we are ready for round   two of the yoke notice i haven't finished the last  stitch because i still want to make sure that i'm   changing for the next color on the color  chart which will be going back to color b   so now i'm going to move my stitch marker but in  this first stitch i will be working it as a split   single crochet so if you look at this i'm going  to pull the stitch up so you can see it there   are two lines that form a v shape when we were  working continuing on we are going to be working   in the center of that v which is why it's a split  single crochet and for the remaining rounds all   the stitches through round 28 of the yoke will  be a split single crochet it's also known as the   waistcoat stitch it has a couple different names  so now for this very first stitch i am going to go   into the center and also make sure you are also  entering the upside down v on the back there's   also those lines on the back and i'm going to  complete that stitch by making sure that i pull up   this first loop if you're having trouble getting  into your stitches using this style of stitch   it's often because this loop needs to be pulled  up a little bit more before completing the stitch   this should be a comfortable for you so if it's  hurting your hand to create these stitches most   likely you're just not making them loose enough  by pulling up that first loop on this hook and   then finishing the stitch now on the chart  for this round two we are increasing into   that first stitch so we will increase by doing two  split single crochets into the first stitch then   another one in the color b and then a stitch in  color a and that will be our repeat around so i   will place two by still going into that center of  that stitch and just placing a second stitch into   that very first stitch that increases for us  i'm going to go ahead and mark the first stitch   and now i'm going to change no i'm not changing  colors so i've increased by doing two stitches   into the first in color b the next one will also  be in color b and now i will switch to color a the nice thing about color a making these lines  down is i feel like it does help keep track of   when you need to change colors because  from here on out until we get to row 19   color a will always go into color  a so once again i will do two   split single crochets into the first stitch then  a split single crochet into the next change colors   to color a and then do a split  single crochet into the next   and that will be our repeat so repeat that all  the way around and then come back for round three all right so now that we have done round two  it is time for round three i just want to note   you will find on yours that it has a little bit  of puckering around the edges you'll see some   curling it feels like there's too many stitches  on the increased rounds but as you keep going   those really level out but just be aware that  after every single increased round you do   you will have a little bit of puckering  going on is perfectly normal for around three   four five and six it will all be the same to  do those rounds we are going to start with   color b so i've got my color b ready i'm going  to move my stitch marker and we will be doing   our split single crochets and we're just simply  going to be matching the colors that are there so   before we had increased we are not increasing  we are simply doing three stitches in color b   and one stitch in color a so here we go and that's  the repeat the whole way around just working what   you're working and you'll do that four three four  five and six be sure to place that stitch marker   because you can lose your spot quite easily  and i will note as we get going you will find   especially as we get a little bit further along  that you will be carrying your yarn along the back   across quite a few stitches so we don't want to  have when we're doing our color work and we're   looking at the wrong side we have our floats we  never want our floats to be floated over more than   three stitches ideally because once your float  becomes really long there's more of a chance for   some pulling on the stitches on the front as well  as when you're putting it on it can get caught   and snag so we want to make sure that when  we're carrying our yarn we're not carrying   it more than three stitches at a time to do  that though if i were wanting to not carry it   three stitches and say i only wanted to carry it  every two stitches then i would simply on the next   stitch grab the yarn that's floating on the back  place it over my hook and just let it lay there   and then yarn over and pull up a loop for that  next stitch what it does is it grabs and catches   that floating yarn on the back so that we're not  carrying it over too many stitches so that's a   great thing to to practice to do i think on this  round you're okay to carry it for three but as we   get going you will not want to carry any of the  colors for more than three stitches on the back   without catching it and grabbing that float to  lock it down so as you can see here our floats a   lot shorter since we grabbed it with one of those  stitches as we were working it so continue this   round and work through round six and come back  for round seven where we will be switching colors so our yoke is looking pretty good so far it does  still seem to have some wave to it and that's okay   a lot of this will come out at  blocking and also as we continue to   move and make this yoke bigger so now it is  time to go ahead and fasten off your color   b and we're going to go ahead and get out  color c so we're moving on to our color c   grab whatever color you're using for color c  and for round seven which is the round that   we're on we will be working the same as round six  only we're now using color c instead of color b so for this round seven i'm going to attach  color c and move my stitch marker and we're   still working the same stitches we're not  increasing yet and we're going to work one   round working the color c and still working  our color a for that striping that goes down all right now it's time for round eight and we are  going to be doing more increasing on round eight   so for this round our first color will be in the  color c and we are going to increase in this very   first stitch just the same as we did down here so  we will still working in the split single crochet   do two in the very first and then  we will do two in the next two change colors and with color a we'll do one of the   color a's but before i forget i'm going  to go ahead and mark that first stitch and then we'll repeat that where we do two  single crochets in the next with color c   then we're going to single crochet in the next two  with color c all in these split stitches and then   we change colors and do a split single crochet  in color a and that's just repeating around it   will increase it will make it a little bit wavy  more again but don't worry that will block out   as well as the more rows we do where we  are increasing it will help that as well after we had completed round two for the size  small our stitch increase was increased to st after we increased on round two we had 96  stitches for the size small and on round   eight as we increase we will have 120 stitches  for the size small if you want to count your   stitches to make sure you're on track for that  size for all the other sizes i do have all the   stitch counts in the pattern which is available  for purchase with the link in the description   continue to work up the rounds nine  through 12 which is simply just   repeating in the same color where we're going  to single crochet four in the color c and then   single crochet one in the color a so it's like the  same section down here we're just working working   with a few more stitches and then come back at  round 13 where we will once again change colors   all right i just completed round  12 and now i'm starting round 13.   i went ahead and fastened off my color c  and now we are ready to bring in color d   so this is really exciting because this is when we  start to see all the colors kind of mixed together   and for this round it is simply a repeat of the  last round we just have a color change going on so   i will attach that new color move my stitch marker  and in the very first stitch do a split single   crochet so this round and and the next round will  both be the same we're not changing stitch counts   we're just simply changing out our color c for now  color d and just a quick reminder as you're going   to carry across on the back for four stitches is  a bit too long of a carry at least for my comfort   so i will go ahead on this next stitch and just  take that gray yarn lay it over the top of my hook   yarn over and complete that stitch to grab  it so it's not such a long float on the back   and i'm actually going to change colors here  really quick and do this stitch as you can see i'm   just continuing to do the same type of patterning  where i always put the color a in into the color   a and then my other color in between but i want to  show you really quick because i think often people   do want to see the back of something to to know  if it looks similar to theirs and yes it it does   look messy ish i actually don't think this one's  that that bad i think it's actually kind of pretty   and i haven't we do my ends yet because i often  do that at the very end i'm that kind of crocheter   but the back has a lot of these  floats these carried yarns   and it actually looks quite nice honestly i  don't really mind it so going back to the right   side which obviously is prettier i'm going  to continue around for round 13 and round 14   doing this pattern and then on round 15 we'll  come back because there will be an increase   all right so now we are on round 15 and it's  time for us to do an increase again this is a   little bit hard to see i'm going to see if i  bring it closer but we have an increase right   here which adds another stitch for this next  row so we will increase by single crocheting two   split stitches in the first then  in the next three and then our gray   so to do so just like before i'm going to  start the round by moving my stitch marker let down a little and i will do two into the  first go ahead and replace that stitch marker   so i don't let my lose my spot and now i will  do split single crochets into the next three   and while i'm doing this i'm also going to grab  that color a so that the flow is not too long and now i'm going to change to the color a and so  it's repeating that all the way around once again   after this round it will kind of seem a bit wavy  the fabric might seem a little wavy but as you   can see right here it really evens out as you get  going so you don't have to worry about it being   a little bit wavy or puckering at all so repeat  that where you will do two split single crochets   into the first then split single crochet into  the next three and then one in your color a   and you'll repeat that all the way around  increasing so that by the end of this round   which is round 15 for the size small you will have  144 stitches so for round 14 we had 120 stitches   and now on round the end of round 15 we will  have 144 stitches then for the next three rounds   we will simply work in pattern where we're doing  split single crochets in color d for five stitches   and then one in color a and that's the repeat  until round 19. now i'm not going to do   um the rounds until we get back to  round 24 where we'll increase again   so i just want to talk about how to continue on  here it's just simple color work so for round 19   you'll do one single cro split sink split  single crochet in gray the color a and then   three in the color d then one in color a and then  we're going to bring back and do one in color b   then for round 22 the repeat will be color  b for one color a for one color d for one   color a for one color b for one and then  color a for one so there's a lot of color   work going on here the tip when you get  into this area is just making sure that   you are not having your floats on the back be too  long that they continue to be no more than i like   to say three stitches so just be conscious  of that because when you get say round 22   the color d is only used one time in six stitches  so after doing a couple stitches you'll want to   you'll catch that strand d when you're doing the  color a so work that up through round 23 and we'll   come back in and i'll do that increase with you  for round 24. so here we are i just finished round   23 and now i'm on round 24 where once again we  will be doing an increase so i wanted to walk you   through that increase i'm starting this round  with color d so i'll do my first stitch with   color d place my stitch marker in that stitch  so that i don't lose the beginning of the round and i'll switch to color a little twist there and then our next stitch will be color d and we  are working three strands for some of these rounds   but after this round we'll go back to working  less colors then i'm going back to color a and then after color a i've got color d okay stitches my hands are cold this afternoon  i'm having a hard time getting them going   so after this one this is my color d so  this is the fifth stitch in the round   we are now going to be doing an increase  into the next stitch which will be in color a   and then we will place two split single crochets  into that next stitch and that's what we will   repeat around we'll do one with color d then  color a color c color a color d and then two   stitches into the next one in color a and  it's that repeating it all the way around and   it increases by one stitch so our stitch count  goes from 144 to after round 24 it will be 168   stitches now for the rest of this on round 25  we're still going to be working in 168 stitches   doing that color work same with round 26 and then  i just want to know for round 27 you'll increase   the first of seven stitches on that round so  you're working in only the color a doing a   two split single crochets into the first and then  split single crochet the next six and repeat that   around and then around 28 you're simply just  working a solid round around in color a and   on round 28 you will have a total of 192 stitches  for the size small so let you go finish that color   work i hope you have been enjoying this so far and  we'll come back after we've completed round 28.   how exciting is it to be through round 28  which is the all the color work on the yoke   and you can see this beautiful beautiful circular  piece i wanted to show you how i block this one   i aggressively block this yolk i soak it in  some water for this because it's wool i use   a little bit of the wool wash then i place  it onto this mat and i aggressively block   this to be the dimensions it needs to be and  in this circular yoke shape i also these lines   i shift them slightly so that they don't have  too much of a lean and this aggressive blocking   is what will make your sweater look really really  sharp so this is not a step that you want to miss   i highly agree i highly recommend getting  some mats and some pins for this one to block   if you don't have these supplies you can attempt  to do it on top of a towel maybe on your bed   and try to press it into place as much as possible  you could do a steam block i wouldn't be opposed   to that but it's not what i chose for this  sweater because i i really think if you want   to get rid of that slant you will need to do  a more aggressive blocking so this is actually   still drying a little bit i'll let that finish  and then we'll come on back and we'll start doing   everything past the yolk now that we have  this beautiful yoke blocked it is time for   us to start working a little bit more down till  we get to the point where we want to split the   sweater but at this point after our first 28 rows  we are changing our stitches so we've been working   in the split single crochet and now we're going to  change our stitches and we are going to be working   in the front loops and back loops  and using regular single crochets   so to do this i have changed my hook size i have  gone down a hook size to be the size h my gauge um my stitch width is still the same but this changes  my stitch height so we want to adjust for that   when it comes to working the rest this pattern  which has been accounted for in the instructions   i still have the first stitch of my round marked  because we will continue working continuously   even though we're changing our stitches so here  we go so for round 29 for the size small we are   simply going to start by single crocheting in the  back loop the entire way around so i'll mark my   first stitch and now for the rest of this round  i will single crochet into the back loop only now we are back with round 30 um if you  notice i have a different color of hook   it's still the size h this is why i have a lot  of streamlined swirls around because i tend to   stick them somewhere and i can't remember where  i stick them and i find them a day or two later   so for round 20 oh i'm sorry this is for around  30. we just completed round 29 we still have 192   stitches and we're going to be working another  round without increasing but we're going to start   doing a little bit of texturing in our stitch  it's really simple to do it's an easy way to add   texture we will still be working in single crochet  stitches for the first stitch we will single   crochet into the back loop only and then go ahead  and mark that first stitch so we don't lose our   spot and for the second stitch we will be single  crocheting into the front loop only and for the   size small that's what we will repeat all the way  around so single crochet into the back loop only   and then single crochet into the front loop only  and repeat that all the way around for round 30. now for round 31 we'll be working the opposite  that we did before so we will be doing a single   crochet into the front loop only to start this  round and then a single crochet into the back   loop only what this does is it works the opposite  from the stitch below so the stitch below was   worked in the back loop and now we're working in  the front loop so we'll repeat that all the way   around by doing a single crochet in the front  loop and then a single crochet in the back loop   now we are ready for round 32 of size small  which is simply a repeat of around 30.   we will start this round by single  crocheting in the back loop only   and then single crocheting in the front loop only  i'm going to go ahead and mark that first stitch   and then continue to work in that established  stitch pattern around single crocheting in the   back loop only and then the front loop only it's  the opposite of the stitch below after we do round   32 we will come back to separate for the body  and the sleeves so now it's time to separate for   the body and the sleeves right now we still just  have a big circular yoke and what we do next we'll   mark the areas that we worked for the sleeves  and the areas for the body to get started we   are going to chain eight for the size small  this will be this space underneath the arms now we are going to skip the next  40 stitches i'm going to move my   stitch marker to that very first  chain because that will be my new beginning of round now i'm going to skip 40 and after skipping 40 in the very next stitch  i am going to do a be a a back loop only   single croc i'm sorry a front loop only  single crochet so i'm doing the opposite   of what the row below is so i'll do a single  crochet in the front loop only i'm going to kind   of fold this in half because i find it much easier  now to work it when the yoke is folded in half and i'm going to continue to work in this  established stitch pattern so working   opposite from the row below for 56 stitches so single crochet in the back  loop and then the front loop   and then the back loop and  we'll do that for 56 stitches so now that i've worked the 56 stitches across  here i'm going to repeat those two steps again   where i chain eight and also skip 40 stitches and then work in the front loop only the  next stitch because it's the opposite   from below and then i will work the remaining  56 stitches in the established stitch pattern   which is simply working the opposite front  loop or back loop from the round below   and you should only have 50  stick 56 stitches left to work   okay now that we've separated for the body and  the sleeves and we have these chain stitches here   we can kind of see and imagine where the opening  for our arms will be on each side as well as what   we will need to build down for the body yes i  understand this is upside down on the camera   um just the way it's it's worked when it's facing  us so now we will continue to work on the body   portion and we are not going to be worrying about  the sleeves they're just going to kind of hang out   so we will be continuing to work in the  established pattern what that means is we   will work opposite from the row below however  when we're first working these stitches at the   sleeves you know we don't have anything to  work from but chains so we simply single   crochet into those and on the next round  we'll make sure that those are worked   in patterns so i'm going to work the first stitch  of the round and i'm going to mark that stitch and then i'm going to work the rest of the chains and now i'm going to work in let's see and now  i'm going to be working in the back loop only for   this stitch and then the front loop only for the  next and work that all the way to the next chains now that i'm at the next chain stitches  i'll simply work across the chain stitches and then we will work the last stitches by doing  the opposite of the round below for each stitch   so the round below this stitch was in the front  loop so i'll do it in the back loop and then the   front loop and repeat that across until we  get to the very beginning of the round again all right so from here on out we are going to  simply be working in the established stitch   pattern and building the body down for this size  small you will work a total of 45 rounds from   this underarm stitch down or until it reaches  the length you would like from the underarm to   you could even make it a crop top or if you want  it longer and you can even make it into a dress   so you're going to work the length  as long as you want until it is   just about a couple inches from the total length  you'll want with the cuff now i want to talk about   the repeat what you will do is repeat starting  the round in the back loop only and then the   front loop and work that around and then the  next round will start in the front loop only   and then the back loop only and then repeat that  around and you'll go back and forth between those   two repeats what it does however and you re it's  it's not noticeable so let me see if i can even   find it here is it does create somewhat of a line  you can kind of see a little bit of almost looks   like a seam line in here and that's because two of  the stitches start the same so the last stitch of   the round and the first stitch of the round will  both be worked into the either front or back loop   so you can kind of a certain glimpse of light  you can kind of tell that there's a little thing   off with the stitches right there if that bothers  you because sometimes that type of stuff bothers   me even though i really don't think it's that  noticeable what you can do is decrease one stitch   from the body and then continue to work it  continuously you won't need to rotate back   and forth each round by flipping the way you're  working you can just simply work the opposite   stitch from the round below so there's two ways  to do it you can work it by the instructions in   the pattern or there's also a note on how you can  decrease one on the body so that the body stitch   count is no longer an even stitch count but an odd  stitch count or you can even increase the stitch   to make it an odd stitch count and then when you  work around and around you you you have less of a   seam with those stitches starting ending around  and then starting the next round with the same   stitch style but just be conscious of the  beginning of your round stitch still mark that   if you are rotating back and forth between  starting the round in the back loop or the   front loop because often i will get off and  i'll start working the same as the round below   and if you did that you wouldn't have  this textured stitch pattern it would be   they would line up more i really like this this  texture stitch pattern i think it does kind of   look like the knit seed stitch it's basically  just simple crochet stitches rotating between   front loop and back loop so it's not difficult  so but it does take a while so grab a movie   and create the body and then we'll  come on back for that bottom ribbing   so now that i've worked the amount of body that  i want on this one i i have in the pattern the   schematics of the length but of course the  length can be changed and i decided on this   one for myself to actually have it be a little  bit shorter than what's written in the pattern so   you do as many rows as you like or follow the  pattern schematics and do those amount of rows   and then you're ready for your ribbing i worked  around to my starting point and i'm on the side of   my sweater i like to kind of hide the seams on the  side we wouldn't really want a seam on the front   so now what we will do is we will change  colors i'm going to go back to the first   original color that i used on the top for the  bottom cuff and the sleeve cuffs but honestly   you could really pick any color that you would  like so now i'm going to fasten off this gray i'm going to get ready to join this next  color so before i join this next color i   like to do a slip stitch because we're working  in the round we kind of have a little bit of a   height difference between where we are and  where we're going so i'm simply going to   do a slip stitch into that next stitch and  then i'm going to start with my new color to do the ribbing we will start by chaining 10.  i'm actually going to do my slip stitch joining   that new color and then i'm going to chain 11  excuse me we will be chaining 11. because we will   be working 10 stitches and we need that turning  chain after chaining 11 i will slip stitch in the   second chain from the hook and across the 10 chain  stitches so i'm simply doing 10 slip stitches and now that i've done the ten  slip stitches i will slip stitch   two stitches from the body in the back loop only  so now for this i like to work in the back loop   only and i'm going to slip two stitches from the  body in the back loop only then i'm going to turn and now i will skip the two stitches that  were worked on the bottom of the body   and in the back loop only i'm  going to slip stitch 10 again and now once again i'm going to turn my work   and chain one i like to pull that chain one  down because it's really nice if it can be a   tighter edge and now working in the back loop  only so that back loop i will slip stitch 10. and then i slip stitch two stitches from the  body in the back loop only and turn and then   it's just simply repeating those steps where you  skip two from the body and you slip stitch the ten   ribbing stitches in the back loop only and  then at the end of this row we chain one turn   and slip stitch in the back loop only 10 again so  it's just repeating those steps back and forth and   what this does is it gives you a beautiful ribbed  bottom so as you can see on this finished sweater   this is the ribbing that we are doing currently  that's what it looks like when it's finished so   this is a fun way to do ribbing that looks  like knit it kind of has a stretch of knit   it's a great option on this sweater  when i was working it i didn't   slip stitch in the back loop only from the body  i just did a slip stitch to the body stitches   so it's whichever you prefer um i don't think it  really makes too much of a difference it's just   when you do it in the back loop only it kind  of gives you a nice line here at the bottom   so work that all the way around and then we'll  come back when you've got this ribbing worked   all the way around the bottom and i will  show you how to join that now that we have   slip stitched all the way around the bottom  of the sweater it's time to go ahead and join   to do this we will be slip stitching through the  loops on our starting edge and the back loop only   of our current edge whether you're up here working  down or down here working up it'll be the same i   just do find if i'm working from the bottom of the  sweater out towards the edge it's a little less   noticeable to join but either way works fine which  is simply you'll need to insert your hook through   the loop of one side and the back loop only of the  edge you're working on and then you will simply   slip stitch across inserting through both those  loops at the same time and that will join them   and it's really a hidden join you  won't really notice what your seam is and now that i've come to  the end of that i will simply   fasten off my yarn and then weave in that end as you can see it's really invisible  now it's time to work on our sleeves   i went ahead and finished one of the sleeves  so we can see where we are headed with this   and we have a nice design at the  bottom right before we do the cuff   notice the sleeves are simply picking up the  stitches working the stitches around this opening   and continuing in this stitch design all the way  down but we do have a wider sleeve here than we   do here so we will be doing some decreasing so  let's grab our main body of yarn and we will   be attaching it to our opening and working  this other sleeve so that it looks like this now when working the sleeve i like to grab two  stitch markers in different colors and i'll show   you why here in a minute i just find it's an  easier way to keep track of not only our rounds   because we need a stitch marker for our rounds but  also for where we decrease so to do the sleeves   we are going to insert our hook into a stitch  underneath the arm so in the center underneath   the arm we are going to go ahead and join our  yarn that way our seam is kept under our arm and now we are going to single crochet  around for 48 stitches for the size small   now when we're single crocheting these stitches  underneath the arm there's really not a way to do   the front loop or the back loop because we're in  a way just kind of picking up those stitches for   the first time and that's okay and then but  when we start working on the rest so coming   over here i've placed four stitches under the  arm because we chained eight for under the arm   when i start picking up these stitches i can  tell what my stitches are and what they should   be so i'm working the opposite of the stitches  that from this round below so for this one   i had worked in the back loop so now i will work  in the front loop and continue that around then   i'll do the back loop opposite of the stitch  from the row around below and i'm just going   to work in that pattern all the way around until  i get back to the bottom of the sweater sleeve and now i'm simply working those last four  stitches under the arm that were the chain   stitches to have a total of 48 stitches so now  i've worked 48 stitches for the size small all the   way around this perimeter of the opening now we're  not going to join because we're going to work this   the way we have everything else well we're not  joining we're working continuous so this is where   our first stitch marker is going to come in now we  will still be working in that established stitch   pattern so these four stitches that we did under  the arm are not quite recognizable yet as a stitch   pattern so you'll come over here to these other  stitches i know i worked this one in the front   loop so this one will be back loop front loop  back loop front loop so i would do the opposite i would start this next stitch in the back loop   and not joining just working continuously and then  placing a stitch marker at that very first stitch   and then i'm going to continue working  this round in that in that established   stitch pattern just the front loop in the back  loop opposite from the one from the round below   and i want to also now point out that you will  see that there are some gaps at these two edges   that's completely normal that's what  happens when we're working the sleeves   we can use our tail end that we joined with to  come back and sew those a bit later or if you   are comfortable as you're working your 48 stitches  around i have found if you do a decrease right   here it kind of pulls everything together but just  make sure that you only have 48 stitches the other   thing to know is now we we will be working in  the established stitch pattern so the working   the single crochet in the front loop and the back  loop and we we will be working that for a total of   44 rounds so we will be working 44 rounds until we  go on to the color work step but we will also be   decreasing so we will be decreasing every seventh  round for the size small the best way to do this   is to get another stitch marker and i find on  the rounds that i need to decrease i throw a   stitch marker there so then i know when i need to  decrease again so i'm going to show you that part   i'm going to go ahead and work the next the first  six rounds i'll get to that seventh round where   we will decrease and we'll go from there so work  six rounds and come back on that seventh round now that we're back and i am on my seventh round  so i just continue to work in the established   stitch stitch pattern and on my seventh round we  will do our first decrease to do this we will do   a single crochet three together so whenever  we decrease we are decreasing by two stitches   i like to do the invisible decrease where  you place your hook into the front loops   of the next three stitches yarn over and pull up a loop yarn over and  complete that stitch go ahead and mark that   stitch you don't want to lose it that's our first  stitch in this round then we will continue in the   established stitch pattern so i'd be working  into the front loop only opposite from the   round below and then i'll just continue that  established stitch pattern all the way around   but this is where i also like to bring in  a second stitch marker on the front of this   stitch the one i just decreased i like to mark  it this way it is easier for me to keep track of   where i need to decrease again because  i will be decreasing on every seventh   round so once i place this on the last area i  decreased it's easier as i keep going to know   where i need to decrease again and not have to  count stitches from the beginning of the sleeve   now the thing we really need to know about this  i'm going to i'm going to go over this twice just   because i think it's kind of a lot to remember  is that we will be working a total of 44 rounds   we will be decreasing every seventh round until  we have 36 stitches around on our sleeve for the   size small once we have 36 stitches we will just  continue to work in the established stitch pattern   until we have a total of 44 rounds so i'm gonna  go over that one more time just a little recap   for the sleeve we will start out by  single crocheting around the perimeter   and then we will decrease every seventh  round until we have 36 stitches then we   will continue to work until the total rounds  for the sleeve length is 44 rounds after that   we will go on to the color work so i'm going to  let you complete this section and then come back   when we've got the 44 rounds for the slice small  and we've decreased the sleeve now that we have   decreased our sleeve to have 36 stitches and we  have a total of 44 rows it is time for us to work   on this beautiful color work so we will still be  using our color gray for this first round for the   sleeve color work so our first round before we're  starting this chart it will be working in the back   loop only we will still be using our stitch marker  moving it up as we go for each round since we're   working this continuously so for the first  round of the color work we will simply be   single crocheting into the back loop only all the  way around for round two we will start to work   from the color chart i'm also going to include  a chart in here that's like a color by number   and that way if you wanted to print and you wanted  to take some colored pencils or something i know   sometimes it's hard when um you know i give you a  chart and we have like these pretty colors on here   but you're working with different colors it kind  of plays tricks on our mind a little bit because   i almost grabbed this color when i was looking at  this chart but we're actually going to be working   i'm going to be working with this blue color  because this is my color b for this sweater so   for the first uh round of this we're going to  be working this just like we did for the yoke   where we will be working our first five stitches  in our color a and the remaining stitches for this   chart through row 10 will also be in the split  single crochet so i'm going to do my first stitch   and place my stitch marker and then do this color  work and all of these stitches will now be worked   as a split single crochet of course i feel like  the first round whenever you're getting back in a   split single crochet working this color work feels  a little bit challenging until i get into a groove   so four and my first five stitches will  be in color a i missed my stitch there   definitely will get easier on the next row  round then i'm going to grab my color b   and do one stitch now remember whenever we're  working more than so many stitches in a row   before we're switching back to colors  so in this one i'm working five stitches   i want to be sure that i kind of grab that color b  halfway through so that i don't have a really long   float on the back because if you have a really  long float your fingers will probably catch on   the inside of your sweater when you're putting it  on so i will go ahead right here and i'm going to   catch i'm going to lay my color b over my  hook and then just let it rest and complete   that stitch with my color a and it just catches it  there on the back so it's not too long of a float   so for this chart since we have the chart all  laid out i will go over it but i'm going to be   doing this off camera because row by row i think  is going to get pretty boring and once again i do   have this written out if you prefer reading it  versus looking at a chart i have it written out   in the pattern for purchase so for row one of  the sleeves we will be doing the single crochet   split single crochet in color  a for five then color b for one   row two will be color b for one color a for three  color b for one color a and you'll just keep going   in that order through row ten and then we will  come back after row ten to do the sleeve cuff now that we've worked the design on the cuff it  is time for us to work on the ribbing what i like   to do before joining the ribbing just because we  were working in the round and so we kind of have   a higher stitch than we do at the next stitch is  i just simply do a slip stitch it kind of evens   out that edge and then i will attach my color b  or whatever color you chose for your ribbing it   really could be any color of choice and i am going  to do a slip stitch in the in the next stitch   just to kind of even that out again and chain six  one two three four five six and now this will be   worked the exact same way as we did the ribbing  on the bottom where i am working in the back loops   only in the second chain from the hook i'm going  to do a slip stitch and then slip stitch across and now i'm going to slip stitch into   that first stitch and into the next so slip  stitch two from the body turn and then i'm going   to do this same thing i'm going to do the slip  stitches and skip the two stitches from the body   and do five slip stitches in the back loop only  and i will do that all the way around just like   we did for the bottom ribbing of this sweater  we're just working less stitches on this cuff and that's all there is to it just repeat  those steps all the way around and then it   will be joined the exact same way that we did  join on the bottom ribbing so once you finish   that that's the last step in this sweater  piece i really hope that you have enjoyed it   and that you enjoy wearing your sweater i know  i am completely in love with this i think it's   my favorite one so far i will hint that i  am working on another color work sweater   that will release with crochet foundry in the fall  so i cannot wait to show you that one as well and   please please hit subscribe and like my  channel and follow me on social media   because i love seeing what you make so feel  free to comment tag me i cannot wait to see   your creative makes as well thank you so much  for joining me and i'll catch you next time you

Channel: Briana K

Views: 174,696

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Id: 3Inpq08NPUU

Length: 68min 30sec (4110 seconds)

Published: Thu Jan 21 2021