Hi, everyone!
After a long break, we start repairing V6s again. Of course they are in limited numbers, I mean, we are not talking about any parking lots clogged with these cars right now Well, let's talk more about this car: it is a 2011 Toyota Highlander with a 3.5-liter engine.
It was brought from the town of Sarov by a tow truck. In fact, a client could drive his car himself, but it would be with some difficulties. The thing is that oil consumption is 1 litre per 1000 km. It's smoking very badly, so the owner decided not to take any risks and brought it in on a tow truck. Regular viewers
of course remember the legendary Opirus V6 on the channel: How we had a great time suffering with them and then we stopped doing them, but nothing is eternal under the Moon.
It's okay to take one or two cars for repairs to stretch your mind. The client prudently brought winter tyres. We all understand that a V6 is a neverending construction.
We'll be allocating a separate lift for this car, where it will be perched throughout the entire duration of the repair. The “ship” is big. It'll be interesting to compare it with Sоrento: sizes, rod, motors. But all this will be later, after all repairs, not now.
We pre-washed the body, washed the engine, as much as possible.
The car is automatic with all-wheel drive. There are two owners, but the second owner:
as he says, "I'm effectively the only one, took it with about 15,000 or 20,000 km on it.
The interior was, he says, perfect, new leather." The oil Lukoil Luxe 5w30 was added.
Let's see the condition of the motor after the little Luke. (pun intended) But again, it's not a top-of-the-range Luke, it's something in between, although some people say that the oil is the same as ARMORTECH, according to chemical analysis. Anyway, it's a rumour. Kilometrage on the odometer is 261 thousand. Traction Control warning light is on, in general, there's something wrong with ABS system. “Сheck engine” light is on, in addition, and it works somehow not very well. The catalyst is still original.
Some clips are missing. There's a note on the airbox, that Idemitsu 5w40 Zepro 169,000 was added in 2019. Runs, of course, noisy. To put it bluntly, not so good. A whining sound. It stinks of burning oil when trying to goose the throttle. Let's see what's happened with the “check engine” at least. And then the lads will gradually start removing the engine on the lift. I decided to use my scanner to look at errors regarding check-engine. So, four errors. Error 16: Crankshaft position - Camshaft Position Correlation Bank 1 Sensor A, Sensor B. Error 17. Error 18 is on the Bank 2.
It's also on both sensors. In short... apparently, it sees that the valve train... well, the timing chain's loose, that's all: it doesn't like it. The camshafts are not in the factory set positions relative to the crankshaft. There's nothing good about it. The motor's worn out.
And the Stability Control warning is on. We'll have to look into that, too. Well, let’s have a look.
We’ve demounted the bumper, pumped out Freon, 621 grams. Look at the condition of the coolant radiator core: It is heavily clogged with dirt and all sorts of flies and other things.
The A/C condenser has already been removed there. And this is the core.
We can't leave it like this, of course. It's worth explaining the repair time a little bit:
Look, the idea is that we take the lift and remove the engine. And in order to roll the car out onto the street, into the car park, we have to put all this stuff back together. So, in essence, it's double work. But in this case, with the V6, we have one lift out of that number, which we allocate for the long-term repair. This motorcar stays here with the engine removed, the running gear disassembled, the bumper removed until the engine is reassembled and put back on. It will save a certain amount of time, work and energy. So when people call and ask for a V6 major overhaul and some unrealistic tight deadlines, the only thing left to say here is to probably advise them to look for a contract engine. (used and imported from abroad) In this case the deadlines have all been agreed with the client, so it won't be quick. So, what have we got here? Firstly, the hydraulic engine mounts immediately catch my eye. They are practically everywhere here. If on cars of such class as Sorento and Santa Fe mounts are just rubber and one hydraulic (mount) on the side-member, *here* is hydraulics, *over there* is also on the top and *over here* hydraulics on the transmission. Clearly, we're looking at a higher class car. Of course, the class would be higher,
if instead of MacPherson strut there were double wishbone suspension at the front, but unfortunately this car did not get it. And maybe fortunately, because the repair costs of such running gear are certainly higher. There's been some work done here, I mean,
polyurethane bushings are on the levers. It's definitely not factory-made. Well, there's not much to show, it'll be more interesting
when the car's off the subframe and the engine. And all this will “recline” on our table . The catalytic converters are here.
The client says the catalyst have not been removed yet. There is a ceramic coating, but it is better to look not from the exhaust side, but from the intake side. Cardan joint is removed.
Here oil leaks right away, so we put a bottle, into which it drips.
The right thing to do is to drain this oil and add a new one. Now, here is the 2nd catalytic converter with the 2nd catalyst. Also oil is leaking heavily from the engine.
Over there, we see a banjo bolt and some kind of oil gallery. It's all heavily oiled.
Then the catalyst-afterburner is located underneath, and there is a single exhaust system to the silencer and beyond. The car is not “allowed” to have dual exhaust pipes.
It's not a sports car. There's a spare tyre hanging on.
The levers, which are more like just pipes. There's already corrosion on some of the levers.
This place is starting to rot even more, but it will rot for a very long time. Otherwise, it looks good.
The subframe is strong, everything else is thin. MacPherson is rear, the spring is combined with the strut. There's nothing else to see here.
Our business is the engine, and that's what we're going to do. The lads wanted to bet a bullseye that they could remove it in half a day. They didn't, but they removed it in half a day.
Yeah... there's a lot more to disassemble. It all looks like this: Attachments, pipes, wires.
And then the engine will come to our dismantling area. Here’s the thing:
To remove the engine and detach it from the transmission, you need to remove the transfer case, but it rests on a bracket.
We have to remove the bracket. The video is getting more and more interesting by the minute. The thing is that the client asks to repair the transmission along the way, disassemble and assemble it, because, he says, “I'll have to remove it and put it all again later ”. Since there is such an opportunity, why not help a person along the way. I think it can be done.
We have the engine detached from the transmission and the angular gearbox. On Saturday we plan to work on troubleshooting it. Now lads will remove the box from the subframe and it will go to the neighbouring garage. How "beautiful"... it's all leaking, it's all oozing.
There's no other way to disassemble it. We had several calls about the V6,
for some reason everyone needs it very quickly. People don't understand its specificity at all,
that it can't be done quickly, that it takes a long time. A separate lift is for one car only. It's more like a luxury service.
Where else will you find such a thing, that a separate lift was made for one person only? And there's one here. The engine is mounted on a rolling stand. Of course, working with V-engines is much more comfortable and convenient with the rolling stand. What can I say?
Aluminium block, aluminium heads, 2GR-FE, 3.5 litres. I’ve looked catalogues, there are oversize pistons, not original +0,25 bore, +0,5..., So, quite everything is repairable and doable. I think we disassembled similar motors in “The Corner of a Second-Hand Dealer” series: there was a hybrid Lexus, so in general, the design is quite familiar to us. 94 millimetre pistons.
The only thing that I paid attention to in the catalogue is that the thickness of rings is very small:
compression rings are 1.25 mm long and oil rings are 2 mm long. In general, a classic of the shit-building genre. What's interesting to note here? Phaser actuators are located on both the intake and exhaust shafts, there are phasers, camshaft position sensor, coils. There's coolant outlet here, the classic pattern. By the way, I noticed that the V6 videos get fewer views than the simple inline-fours. I mean, people are not really interested in such motors on a mass scale. I mean, people know that fuel consumption in such cars is significantly higher than in B-segment cars. There is a certain contingent of fans of these cars, but it's not so mass as for the same Rio, Solaris and Vesta. The second head: there are two phaser actuators here too. Here they are, the solenoids. We can see from the coils that something's been changed.
The coil is obviously different from all the others. They made the oil flow through a banjo bolt to the actuators.
Here’s a little metal pipe. The oil filter is located here.
There's an oil pressure sensor next to it. Oil's leaking from the banjo bolt, I mean, the washers are already compressed. They'll need to be replaced. We will certainly change wearing parts such as pulleys and pumps. You shouldn't skimp on the little things. The heat exchanger is right here.
Oil lines provide supply to the filter. From the heat exchanger, the lines go to the antifreeze distributor. This is the crankshaft position sensor, which reads pulses from the reluctor wheel. The Intake plenum has been removed.
We'll look at it later. It's got rubber gaskets there. The fuel rails are plastic.
Here's the port fuel injectors. I mean, it's not a GDI... nothing. Do you want to be surprised at the prices of an unbreakable Toyota? Go to the drom.ru.
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Everything is pleasant, understandable and simply written. So follow the drom.ru link in the description and subscribe to Highlander. The manifold has been demounted.
There are two metal gaskets underneath it and two knock sensors:
Here they are in the Vee of engine. There's also a TOSOL pipe running through here, and a sort of air bleeder valve, since I became a little more skilled at plumbing over the last year. Let's call it by the correct term “air bleeder valve” on Toyota. :) The rubber O-rings on the actuators should be replaced,
they're already compressed. One coil was replaced by a client.
Such interesting fuel injectors are here. What are they labelled? DENSO. The rubber rings on the injectors are compressed, so we change all the little things, all the rings, all the gaskets. Even these tips here, they are also stiff. Here on the workbench we have the compressor, the air conditioner, the alternator, some of the attachments, the starter and the manifolds with the catalysts. This is what they look like. The “chambers”... we'll look at them later with the camera. The plastic plenum with the gaskets that also need to be replaced. The angular gearbox has massive splines. It's all sealed in an oil bath.
Plus, there's oil crossflow. See, there's a rubber ring.
it's also sealed with a sealant. So oil circulates in the splines.
It's all lubricated, I mean, the unit is well thought out and has no design flaws. Over time, the banjo bolt O-rings became compressed and began leaking oil. Toyota provides a filtration system for the oil that goes to the phasers: special filters are in place, they're clean.
The side outlet has been demounted. There is a O-ring and two triangular gaskets in the corners of the heads. The thermostat is in the front plate.
Now the pulley is removed here. Here is the thermostat, here are the rings, respectively:
That's all will be upgraded as well. Water pump...
Overall it's not bad, but it has such a significant service life. It's better not to save money and put a new one, so you don't have to think about it later. And it is better to put the original in this case, of course, if it will be on sale. Cast-iron camshafts.
And the most interesting thing is bush roller chains of large sizes, the huge ones. One chain drives the intake camshaft, and the exhaust camshaft is connected with a separate chain. So... thorough, shall we say. And the hydraulic lifters are here, Here they're: the roller tappets with hydraulic tappets.
I approve of that. Here’s the same. The motor's got a fair bit of yellow lacquer on it.
There are no problems with the cams. Everything is beautiful, nothing bad to say so far. Only positive impressions. The spark plug well gaskets on the valve covers will need to be updated.
These are pressed into the cover. These gaskets, rubber rings, covers need to be cleaned thoroughly. Lubrication of camshaft cams is carried out through the oiler tube. The oil supply to the oiler tube goes through this ring. And here are small holes that lubricate each cam.
It's a traditional Toyota pattern. Those who watched our old videos remember how we made fun of these gaskets. I think it's in a Toyota Auris or something like that or a 1ZZ. I don't remember now, but regular viewers remember what those gaskets were shaped like. But in this case this engineer apparently was not allowed to make such provocative gaskets. They are ordinary in the shape of an eight. The pump has such an intricate shape. Here is a metal gasket.
There are two gaskets on the heat exchanger tubes. They have to be ordered.
The heat exchanger itself is just screwed onto the block. There's no crossover passages.
But there's a bolt like this, that holds the heat exchanger body and the cover together. We think we are going to disassemble this place now,
because if there is a O-ring there, It's stiffened over time and is bound to leak.
It's better to disassemble and replace it. The heat exchanger has some sort of “blacking poo”.
The heat exchanger serves as a kind of sump. Dirt accumulates here and it is better to replace the rubber ring. It's already compressed. An oil filter, a separate cartridge in the housing; All according to European standards. All for the sake of ecology, so that only the paper element is thrown away. And the metal housing doesn't get thrown away like we do. The front plate can't be removed easily.
The thing is that two bolts are countersunk. Here you can see the projecting edge and here is where it's pulled from the inside.
I mean, we have to remove the pan. The cover has been demounted and the tensioner is under it.
It's also covered in yellow lacquer deposits. Maybe the plugs were changed at some point.
Denso Iridium ones are here. But the terrible fouling on the electrodes doesn't give these plugs a chance. They'll have to be replaced with new ones again. You can see here that it guzzles oil well.
The pan's removed. This is where the bottom plate is screwed on. The hidden bolts are the ones I showed you. Because of these two, the front plate can't be removed.
And you can see the pieces of the tensioner rail: they're right here.
So, the plastic rail came apart. The client complained that something had knocked there.
The assumptions are confirmed. There are two rubber rings on the bottom plate. They are stiff.
Now we are going to remove the plate that separates the crankcase volume from the crankshaft. The rear crankshaft seal is just rubber. You'd expect more from a car like this, but you don't.
And all this is just installed in this cover. There's no alignment.
And given the location of the seal, the chances of error are very high. In short, you have to be very careful. And considering that the rear crankshaft journal is already deeply worn, I can only advise to make a spray on the journal to remove all this. Otherwise, if there is a complaint about the seal leaking, it will be a disaster. Removing the plate. The oil pump is located in the plate and is driven directly by the crankshaft. There is an intermediate sprocket over which the main chain passes. The camshafts are driven by additional chains, as I said. There is one tensioner. Here it is. Two rail and two parasitically little rails.
Now, let's see what's come apart here. The rail’s come apart at the bottom here. A piece of the plastic rail’s come apart. It's missing at this point. It's not that critical :), it would still ride with such a rail.
I mean, there's no something wrong... like a piston-valve collision. Only one piece fell off due to old age and high kilometrage. The small chains are tensioned by hydraulic guides. Here's one, here's another.
The oil pump has been disassembled. It represents the whole thing together with the front plate. But it will be necessary to change all that,
because there is already wear on the aluminum plates, especially here, and on the pump mechanism. There were bits that were sucked off the pan.
Such a mess. In short, the pump will be replaced. There's aluminum residue from the guide and chain.
There's a decent amount of wear on the guides and here's the missing piece. We've removed the main chain, the guides, unscrewed the countershaft,
and we have doubts about these tensioners. I still think there was something here,
because the chain can't just run on top of aluminum. Plus there are some grooves here. There was something here.
It was some kind of plastic guide similar to this one and it just come apart.
The second chain has the same thing and no yellow marks. The chain shaking causes the rails breaking. Working on a V6 requires special care.
We spend much more time on such motors, because after all it is two engines on one crankshaft. And in order not to mix up all the parts,
all these small caps, everything has to be labeled. We label what is in doubt. After all, we have different heads here, left and right, and the labeling of the covers is also different. For example, the front covers are not labeled by the manufacturer at all. Of course, there are differences between them,
but in order not to get confused later on, we have labeled the covers.
No particular problems were found with camshafts. The journals are still relatively good, so the owner is lucky. He'll be able to drive it for a while, more than enough. But I would update the hydraulic lifters.
The kilometrage is quite high and such precision parts have a tendency to wear out. We'll label the camshafts as well, just in case. The camshaft plate has been removed. Look, the head bolts.
There are two more reinforcing bolts here. But not here. So they tightened the gasket here.
The rocker arms are all demounted, they are in perfect condition, There is no problem with them. This is where the metal can crack, but not on Toyota. Now what else I wanted to show you is the heads, which are on all the valves here, the so-called caps. The heads are caps like this, they are little metal cylinders and they are put on the ends of the valves. That's what they look like. There are no numbers on them,
they are all the same and compensate for the insufficient length of the valve and insufficient thickness. So, what do we get? Back when we had thick valves, the rocker arm was put on the valve and aligned.
Now they seem to be afraid that something will happen to the thin end of the valve and this is how they put the little caps on it. In VAZ tuning, we once used these caps to compensate for the incomplete cam base circle during camshaft installation. Now we take it all on the shelves, set it up, take out the hydraulic lifters: This is what the hydraulic tappets look like. (This is a) good motor in terms of LPG installation. I mean, you don't need to adjust anything, set the LPG and drive; methane or propane-butane, no hassle with one-piece tappets and any adjustment. So you can certainly set it on this motor, people do it. Now we demount it all and unscrew the heads. Toyota Highlander's transmission is neither bigger nor smaller than Sorento's. Here's the transmission disassembled already.
It's the same crossflow I told you about, I mean, it's an oil passage with a rubber ring, sealant and the splines are large.
Much bigger than the Korean one. In general, everything here is excellent in terms of all-wheel drive,
there is nothing for repairmen to live on. And the Koreans are good. They made such Niva with splines and other things
so that all sorts of repairmen can make a living out of it. The transmission is so massive, so big.
The head bolts are massive, thick. The pistons are all covered in oil soot.
Metal gaskets. The water jacket's open. The "open deck" has drillings on the diagonal: here they are. There is no burn-out in the gasket. Everything looks decent. The heads are removed and the cylinders are such a mess. Well, we thought there would be some... wear, maybe... Some fifth or sixth cylinder’s eaten through. But what we've seen now has surprised us very much. It's such a nightmare in the cylinders.
You can feel it with your fingernail. It's like caverns... a pitting. Eaten through cylinders. I'm very curious about what was here.
Again, the deformation of adjacent cylinders, the scuffs. Remnants of the hone. That's the worst!
I don't know what had been being done to this motor. What had gotten into it? A backlash. A play, as usual.
Here's a scuff cylinder. It's got some pitting. Let's hope it all comes out after the boring. Now, of course, you can be happy about the oil cooling nozzles for the pistons. They're down there.
Look, one nozzle is for two cylinders. A thoughtful design. It's all done properly.
Everything is beautiful. I personally like everything about it. The commentators on Telegram don't like the fuel consumption of these cars. Well, sorry. If it guzzles too much for you, buy Solaris or Rio.
But that's not the point. We've found something funny here. It's right in front of you. Cylinder block is argon arc welded. That's what it is :) "What a twist," you'll say. But we've only just seen it now. Imagine that. Disassembling, we have this illusion that it is a factory motor. When the client arrived by car, he says,
"I bought it a long time ago from some girl. The leather smelled like a new car.
In general, the car was practically new. I drove it for almost 200 thousand or so.” I mean, he'd done almost the whole kilometrage of the car himself. And you can see it's all been assembled a long time ago. The lacquer is old.
I mean, the engine's really been through a lot. but what we found certainly surprised us. I've written to the owner, taken photos, sent a video. And to be honest, I haven't got a response yet. Look, here’s a crack. You can see it here, it's shaped with some flap disc. This is the transmission mounting ear.
There's a welding seam here. Here it is... the weld. We didn't see it when we hang it on the rolling stand.
It's so “melted”... into the background, so to speak. And there's still a weld going on somewhere here.
Anyway, this ear fell off and was welded back on. But we don't know what the reasons for that were.
Here's a block number and there are some dents. We thought that the guys
who removed the engine in the first department dented it. But the dents are old. In short, something had been done here before.
The car was either in an accident or it's a rollover or something else. And when we look closely at a sealant,
we see that the application of the sealant is uneven: it's not factory-made. And you can see marks from a wire brush.
I mean, they cleaned it all off here. Do you see the sealant? It's got these bubbles.
It is so “wonderful”. "The factory engine that's never been disassembled." What happened to the cylinders is a matter of conjecture. Maybe, dirt's got into it. Maybe something else got into during welding or disassembly.
We don't know, and we'll never know. I even blame on the air filter.
We took out the box, disassembled it to look at the air filter: This is what it looks like. The lower part is a bit dirty, but the top part where the air comes in is fine. It's got a screen, and the intake pipe is relatively clean. Well... there's some dust, there's some oil, Nevertheless, we don't see large amounts of rocks or sand. Anyway, it's got to be a Backlasher, who dropped it off the rolling stands, and while I was having tea, he welded it up, put it back on and shaped it. Is that right? You did, admit it!
-Yeah.
-You see, you've found the culprit - it's all our fault. What a fast guy, huh? We don't even have any welding equipment.
He'd already travelled somewhere while smoko, put the block under his armpit and went to weld it up.
He managed to put the dots, here's the labeling on the con rods. One, two, three, four, five dots. Look. It's also not factory-made.
That's the way it is... it’s an adventure-filled car. I took a long look at the hood, the fenders — it looks like factory paint.
I mean, it’s completely unclear what happened here. We thought and thought... on the running gear, there's no sign that it's been disassembled, or that it's been assembled in someone’s garage. It's very carefully made.
But it's not clear what or who made it. Maybe an authorized dealer? [when the client took a car, he remembered that there was a reseller in the sales history and the car had been unregistered for a year.] And then the car was sold?
Cos it doesn't look like it's been painted at all. But sighs and moans won't mend matters. We have to move on.
I mean, it's not fatal. So what if the ear was welded on. Yeah, somebody screwed up here.
Maybe an accident or something. I don’t know. In short, you can guess for a long time We continue to disassemble.
We've disassembled the head, and it is not okay with the seats and the valves there. I'm going to show you a close-up view,
while also providing you a general view of the valve stem seals: They are completely hardened. There are problems with valve faces.
I'll have to change the stem seals, valves and correct the seats. Severe abrasive wear on the seats. Dust probably got into the cylinders through the air path. The intake valve faces are already so badly concave. The valves have a "decent" soot and the seals are all hardened. The second head’s disassembled. The condition is a little better, but the exhaust seats are also dented. Therefore, we will repair both heads by replacing the valves and correcting the seats. The crankshaft bearing caps (here they are) are bolted to the block from the sides. This is done to strengthen the design. In Toyota these bolts have such seals with inner rubber rings, which prevent oil leakage. I have no complaints about the design of the heads.
Everything is great, solid, reliable, durable. Rocker arms with hydraulic tappets — what else is needed for a good and long life of a motorist. By the way, today is Motorist Day. But of course this video will be released much later. The hollows are enormous: in general, this motor leaves a pleasant impression in comparison with the same Korean V6s. There, everything is somehow cheapened, carelessly made. Here you can still see that people thought about some kind of lifetime of the motor, and there is still a certain brand spirit here.
All in all, I like the motor. Now I'll show you a piston group. Let’s lay down the crankshaft, pistons with connecting rods, bearings, nozzles.
There's a polymer coating on the connecting rod bearing inserts. It's already wiped away: A blue coating like this.
And, look, an aluminum layer showed up underneath the coating, and it's not a concern.
I mean, as you can see, everything is fine even though the bearing inserts are worn. The same thing is with main bearings:
in the coated caps, there is some oblique wear on them. And in the block, the bearings are uncoated.
Or maybe it's just wiped away. Although unlikely. What about pistons and rings?
— the rings are stuck. Some of them are even heavily carbonized. There's a polymer coating, a graphite one, on the piston skirts. The crankshaft... well, it's decent. I think we'll measure its hardness.
We'll see if this car surprises us after all. The throw will be polished and the rear journal will be sprayed for the seal. What can I say about the piston group — the rings are thin. I already mentioned it at the beginning of the video: 1.25 and 2.0. It's certainly not for long lifespan. And the pistons themselves have such a T-shape.
The connecting rod is massive. The cap pin connection... to be precise, the locating pin.
The whole piston is as flattened as possible. There are drain holes. Well... it could be bigger. You can see that, in this case, the focus was still on engine power, not lifespan. Well, the vector was slightly shifted towards power,
not the way the Koreans do it. So... I still have serious doubts about 0.25 cylinder bore: the caverns are very deep. I just think that it won’t come out, somewhere there will be spots.
We will order 0.5 pistons and bore the last over size. Well then sometime later, if it stays alive, we can buy a used motor or block. A floating bushing connecting rod pin.
Let's see if it's worn — It looks okay. Let's look at the pin play some more. There's no play, the pins are tight: Toyota does stuff. It's all clear about the dream — for many people, it's now pipe. But nevertheless, let's start with the main journals. Oh, it's ringing good! 53.8, 57.8 — Main journals are hardened. We're not gonna do any unnecessary hardening.
It's all gonna polish up afterwards — someone asked me. 57.0 is on the crank pin. Well done, Toyota. I'm not gonna measure under the seal. It doesn't make a lot of sense. The main and rod journals — that's all I was interested in. A raw metal should be here — let's see — on this journal. Yeah — you can see, it doesn't see anything, I mean, this journal is raw.
As it should be. Well, that's it. Nice crankshaft. Oh. It's raw here, too. Nice crankshaft. Everything's great.
There's not much point in measuring the camshafts — they'll be fine. As far as I can remember, there has never been a problem with Toyota camshafts. Except for the crankshaft and a half was a bit raw...
the crankshaft was raw, but the camshafts were fine. In short, everything's great.
Now all that remains is to order spare parts and be surprised at the final price. We're going to do the transmission.
And then the machining. That's all for now. We've had a look at the chamber catalytic converter. The catalytics are still here. They have never been removed. It's good. There are some tiny spots.
But the interesting thing is there are no small fragments at all. I mean, the ceramic doesn’t fall off. The ceramic itself has an interesting shape: The honeycomb is very small.
Look, how interesting the shape of the honeycomb is. Compared to what we usually used to see,
the ceramics is different, and there are absolutely no small fragments, or this “washing” powder, which many people have in manifold on Asian strips. There's none of that here. I think there's no point in removing the catalysts.
It's better to leave them as they are. Let him enjoy it, drive it, don't smell the exhaust.
Still, the 3.5 engine, I think it'll smell good. We're done with the troubleshooting. We've prepared a list of spare parts to order.
We will make an estimate, coordinate with the client. The transmission will be disassembled later.
The Highlander transmission is being disassembled. It must be said, the unit is quite dirty. All of this burning oil stinks pretty much:
the transmission is so-so... it run its course as well as the motor. The filter is clogged with dirt and shavings. There, all of this is already ingrained everywhere and in every place. That's all the chips of the metal pieces, the shavings. It's been disassembled, checked for defects. The oil pump is in good condition. You could even say it's great. The clutch packs will be replaced. There are burnt marks on discs. The torque converter will be repaired.
That's probably what spitted so many shavings. It'll need to be opened up.
It's also repairable. There was a problem with this O-ring: it was deformed and could cause a loss of pressure on this clutch pack. Here's the rear cover.
They can be a problem, but in this case there is no wear on this bushing. It's all good here.
All in all, as the engineer said, “the transmission is good, but it's burnt.” It'll all be repaired and it'll keep on working. That's it for now. Now we will make a defect list and calculate the estimate for repair. The Highlander V6 block is after boring. It's not a quick process. The owner has already started asking "How is it going? When?"
Although it was discussed that it will not be fast. Oh, whatever. It's a common thing. ‘They might hurry up if I ask around”, but it’s impossible to hurry. This block doesn't get done quickly. It's actually two blocks on one crankshaft... as I always tell my clients. And even though the manufacturer leaves clearances that are, shall we say, ridiculous — very small.
But I prefer not to make such clearances. In order to avoid all sorts of hilarious situations,
like the piston getting <b>melted</b>, stuck or something else bad happening: some scoring, for example,
so it's not worth the risk. It's not very convenient to measure. I'm alone today. No-one's here.
Well, I had already measured it. Just to show anyone who's interested. The focus is a little bit off.
Anyway, the clearances are fine — we can (begin) assembling it. I'm checking all the blocks now, of course.
I made this habit a long time ago. Sometimes, some blocks have to be returned for obvious reasons. But not in this case, the clearances are good. It's going to get washed. We'll wash it all again, rinse it out. And then we'll reassemble it. Look, I've got pistons here. They're from different engines from different years.
Which one do I like best? Of course, this bucket. But all of these are T-shaped perversions. This is an NH. This is an FG.
This is today’s Highlander. And this is the old Accent, which ran for 500,000 to 400,000.
But as you can see — To keep us from losing our jobs, and to keep the cars coming in for repairs newer,
it's better, of course, to install a T-shaped piston. A motor will have had it faster — that's the manufacturer's opinion...
however they have their own considerations — the car has to be scrapped and the owner has to buy a new one.
But now a lot of people don't have the money for a new one, so we are just reparating-repairing the primus*.
*The Master and Margarita book reference I've already said I don't like the thin rings on this motor. There's nothing else we can do here. There's no other options.
We have to use what we have, which is the rings, which are very thin. And at this diameter..., it's all very poor in terms of oil consumption after oversizing. There's a lifehack to this — It's to reduce a hone roughness. This topic has been raised many times.
In this case there are also different blocks, where we have oil consumption problems... like this booger.
and some other one here stands... In short, on these blocks we have to make a fine hone.
It takes a certain amount of effort. Let's just say it is definitely a problem in most cases.
But without it, it will be problematic. In this case, the hone roughness is significantly reduced.
So I hope the oil consumption after oversizing will be fine. The Highlander transmission is still going to be delayed in getting assembled.
There is a deficit of some gaskets, repair kit. In general,the repair kit was kind of ordered,
but it's handled by our transmission specialist. We are still waiting for this repair kit.
They feed us with promises. It's all coming to the point where the engine's going to be assembled, but no word on the transmission yet. We've cut the “bagel”*, by the way.
*another word for torque converter in Russian The (friction) lining was in a very, very sorry state.
Still, a heavy car puts a lot of stress on the automatic transmission. That's how many of these have been disassembled. You can clearly see that the smaller the car is in terms of dimensions and weight, the freer and easier the automatic is. But the heavier it is, especially with the all-wheel drive, like, the stress on the transmission is completely different. I mean, the friction clutch can not withstand. The torque converters can not withstand.
It all wears out terribly quickly. Especially if the owner rarely changes the oil, or blows off to do it at all.
Change the oil in the automatic, change it, at least do a partial change.
Today we start assembling the Highlander engine. The block is hung on the rolling stand. I measured the dimensions beforehand.
I've already shown you. I'll show you a close-up of the cylinders. Everything was bored successfully.
We used a fine hone because of the very thin rings. Now I'll show you what I have laid out on the table.
The crankshaft has been washed and polished on the journals. I mean, it remained at its nominal size.
We’ve sprayed under the rear crankshaft oil seal, I mean, restored it, removed the groove. New hydraulic lifters, original.
These are purposely rubber-covered washers on the side bolts, which pull caps to the block
and are accordingly sealed with rings, seals. Practically all spare parts here are original with a few exceptions.
For example, oversize pistons... are substitutes, because there is nothing else.
The cylinders had to be bored to 0.5 over size. I mean, we skipped the 0.25 size because of the deep damage to the cylinders. In fact, this is the last bore.
Next is either a linering or a block replacement. But I think that's enough for him to drive for a while. Look at the connecting rods.
Very gritty. So dirty. The pin bosses are narrowed, too.
I mean, there's not a lot of bearing area for the pin. The main bearings also have this anti-friction coating.
The rod bearings don't. These are the O-rings for the valve covers. Oil pump rotors.
The front cover is very expensive and we found it possible to replace only the rotor. This is the original, the “factory” offers it that way: In case these rotors are worn or damaged, on more or less serviceable covers, you can change the rotors, the rocking mechanism. The phasers are also original; factory-made. At first we thought about leaving the old ones in,
but then we thought about it a bit more. And if there are any problems, what do we do?
Disassemble half the motor again? I don't want to do that. Especially since the cam phasers worked with knocks. Moreover there were chain position errors. It's clear that tensioners are largely to blame, but it's not worth the risk.
The kilometrage is high. The cost of these parts is not so high to skimp on it. Naturally, new chains.
This is all original, too. Original Toyota pump is with Aisin marking. Also cam phasers, tensioners, guide, head bolts, sprockets. I ordered an intermediate sprocket. Look, it has some kind of rubber cushions for noise reduction....on it. The chain just lies on it and apparently it dampens any sounds. I really like Toyota in such little things.
They always pay a lot of attention to the little things. For instance, Koreans would not do that. They don't have nozzles in the blocks.
"For what? Why? 100,000, 150,000 and that's it." What else? — I've got the main chain right here.
And the most important thing. All the gaskets, all the little things, everything will be upgraded. Look how much you have to sift through the catalogue to order every single gasket. In addition, I label stickers in the comments here, so that later when we assemble the engine,
it will be easier and quicker to determine where the rings go. I mean, the time spent in selecting and ordering such parts reduces the assembly time. In general, the motor is not complicated in design. I like it.
Except for the piston group — they could do a better job. The trend, however, is toward disposable motors.
That's pretty much it. Now I'm going to start mounting the crankshaft and then putting the piston group in.
The crankshaft is tightened and rotates just fine. I’ve put the pistons in in two pieces,
after which we engage the caps. Well, the installation is a little more complicated here. In general, there is nothing so serious.
Everything spins perfectly. We’ve assembled the heads, tightened, installed the kit of valve trains, new phasers, new chains, guides. So, now we can look at the marks.
The mark is here, lined up with the tooth. Here is a tooth and a colored link. Then, on the second head, it's the same.
Everything comes to this tooth. The mark here lined up with one slot. One point here, two points there.
There are diagrams on the Internet that you can follow. Guides are all installed, tensioners too. The missing plastic links are also installed.
Of course, they come with the new tensioners. Here is the point with the coloured mark on the chain.
Things are coming an end. The front plate is installed, the water pump... the intermediate plate will be mounted, then the oil pan will be installed. The motor is almost assembled,
the attachments are installed. We had a slight delay with these rings. We forgot to order them, but they were available downtown. We didn't put any sealant on it. It was hanging on the rolling stand for a day or two
and then the rings came. We changed the seals of spark plug wells, put new gaskets.
We are almost at the finish line. All that remains is to assemble the automatic. The final touches: the rings are installed,
the valve covers are assembled, everything is tightened. Just in case we tape the intake and exhaust ports,
so that nothing gets in there when mounting the motor in the car. Today we are assembling the U151 automatic transmission on the Toyota Highlander. The parts are laid out here. We have the engine already assembled. The owner is looking forward to it.
Although I actually warned him that there would be no quick repair. But everyone has their own understanding of a deadline.
So, what have we got here? A friction clutch set, parts are soaking, a set of rubber-coated pistons, oil filter, bushings, metal steel discs for the friction clutch: they were burnt out.
And repair kit with seals, gaskets, various rubber rings. The body is washed, prepared for assembly.
We also have the torque converter ready here. It had a burnt lining, it was changed.
Original Toyota oil will be added in this transmission. The transmission is still being assembled.
And now I want to show you the condition of a valve body. There's a lot of dirt. The parts are under such a layer. It all needs to be washed...
washed and assembled in a clean state. Here are the actuators. Repair kit for the valve body:
these little filters, rings, plastic balls. They are in the oil channels and are changed during repair. At the same time the valve body gaskets are changed. The transmission is assembled, installed together with the engine on the subframe. Attachments are assembled. This is where the wiring and exhaust manifolds are assembled, and the piston-rack actuator is installed This is how it all installed together and will be mounted on the car. The engine has been installed on the Highlander. What's left is the installation of the radiators and piping.
And still there are tires left. There were summer wheels. The car was on summer tires. The owner brought winter tires, and now we are taking them to the tire shop. The R19 tires have taken up the entire Largus. 4 wheels, 4 tires, 10 Hakkapeliitta's I think the village tire fitter has only seen such tires in pictures on the Internet, but now he will feel it
in real life. When you press the plug, it should open.
I guess, the plug is import-substituted. That's all. It says “Originalteil”. Believe it or not, it's a “Originalteil”. We've had our first run. Now we've topped up the oil. The sounds were scary because the hydraulic tappets are empty,
the hydraulic tensioner are empty too. We'll run it again and listen. I just didn't have time to get the camera. That's enough! We've got to warm it up, pump it up. Also, don't forget to subscribe to Highlander on the Drom.ru.
Drom.ru gives you a real chance to buy a car you want at a good price. The car is ready.
It remains to do some final checks and to drive to see how this car comes. Winter wheels have been installed on the car.
Summer tires are put in the boot. Warm bulb twists for seat heating. Runs smooth, quiet, very soft. No errors on the cam phasers. The camshafts are in the correct position.
That's pretty much it. Just have a ride left and we can give it back. The client can't wait.
He is looking forward to driving the car after the repair. So, I'm doing test drives on the Highlander.
I need to see how the automatic works, how the engine works. No errors.
I've already driven about 30 kilometres. All in all, it's working well. Well... “Drive”... Of course, if you compare this car with the Sterepto, everything on the run is fine. It is only necessary to make a wheel alignment, a slightly adjust the steering wheel position after removing and installing of the subframe. Of course you are interested in the repair budget of this engine, of this transmission. I won't hide it — 5 magic hundreds ₽ — The engine along with the transmission and with automatic. Given the cost of the car on the aftermarket, well, 2-2.5 million ₽, I think it's quite normal cost. The main thing is that spare parts are available, the engine is maintainable, the transmission too.
So everything is doable, everything is restorable. Now I'm going to drive around a bit and check everything.
Then we can "semaphore" to the client that the car is done. Now, if I gather my impressions of Sоrento,
in which I drive almost every day, what can I say? The car is certainly more comfortable, goes softer, smoother, it weights more. Engineers worked more on noise reduction, on comfort inside the car. Well, the Sorento is more like a cheap plastic stool compared to this car. No, the comparison doesn't go in the Sorento's favor, that's for sure.
I will not say anything about a motor now: it is clear that V6 and in-line four run differently.
The motor is pleasant, comfortable in terms of driving, I liked the motor. It's a good engine.
And in terms of design... of course there are flaws about the thickness of piston rings, T-shaped pistons but I want to rephrase one famous phrase, "I'm an engineer, I see so", so here.
They thought it would be easier to lighten the pistons for better performance and responsiveness, so they did. Other than that, everything is good, for a full service, we drained the water he arrived with before winter, and filled with antifreeze. Sometimes people call about V6 repair, asking what repair time, you tell them “a few months”, they open eyes wide, go into the rant, go away. Well, guys, it's a repair, it's not a “contract motor”*, it's not done quickly.
*used and imported from abroad Let's try to show an overtake to complete the picture. A good motor, even though it is still in the running-in period, it will get used to, will run-in, will reach all its potential and will be as good as gold. Thanks for watching, see you.
Translator https://t.me/Who_the_f4ck_is_that_guy
