TOYOTA 4 RUNNER ALTERNATOR NOT CHARGING DIAGNOSIS

hey guys what's up it's eric with advanced level automotive welcome back to the channel today we're over here at the shop checking out this 2010 toyota 4runner it's got the v6 engine customer complaint is that the alternator is not charging now the shop actually replaced the alternator but even after replacing the alternator it's still not charging so they called us out to come look at it let's go ahead and get started alright guys so first things first let's go ahead and verify the complaint i'm gonna go ahead and start the vehicle up key on it cranks it starts now let's go ahead and move on to the hood and let's check our reading all right so we've got the jump pack connected because the battery is completely dead but we also have the power probe connected to the battery so we can check the charging system voltage just by pushing this button here as you guys can see we're only charging at 12 volts that means it's basically running off of the jump pack in the battery alone brand new alternator installed you guys can see right there that is a brand new alternator we have the belt everything intact everything is connected our terminal is connected the plug is connected but this thing is not charging now a side note the technician already checked the 140 amp fuse that's in the system here as you can see the fuse is still intact it's still good let's go ahead and see if we can figure out what's up with this alternator so the first check i like to do is go directly to the alternator and go to the battery post on the alternator you can see there's a little cover plastic cover on there i'm going to pop it off well this plastic cover is kind of difficult to pop off but uh if you look right there where the plastic cover is to give you a little opening i think i can stick the tip of the power probe into that hole right there and get contact with the terminal all right so i'm just going to take the tip of the power probe and slide it into that slot right there and as you guys can see we have 12 volts outputted directly from the alternator let me zoom in on that you guys see that 12 volts so we know directly out of the alternator we're not getting a charge and what that is is a voltage drop test from this point at the battery to the point right there at the alternator we know that the wiring between here and there is good so next up let's go ahead and go to the connector at the back of the alternator and let's check to see if we have everything that we need in order for this alternator to charge all right guys so before we go ahead and disconnect the connector at the alternator i want to take a minute to take a look at the wiring diagram and see if we can figure out what it is we need to be looking for so first of all let's go ahead and identify the battery cable that goes from the positive battery terminal to the alternator if you look right down here you'll see this letter b that's going to be the b post at the alternator i'm going to highlight this cable and if we follow it up you'll see that it goes to the fuse box and that's where you will find the 140 amp alternator fuse now this fuse we've already checked it we know it's good so i'm going to follow this back through the uh fuse box and if you follow it down you'll see that it goes to the positive battery terminal so now that we know that this is the cable that goes from the battery to the alternator we can assume that the rest of these wires on this wiring diagram that go to this alternator are on that four pin connector so if you look over here you'll see pin number one labeled as s then over here you'll see pin number two labeled ig then over here pin number four labeled l pin number three labeled m so what i want to do is i want to take a look at each of these four wires and we want to see uh what it is we should be seeing here with the ignition on or with the ignition off so i'm going to go ahead and highlight this pin number one which is the s terminal and if we follow it up you'll see that it's a violet wire or a purple wire and it actually turns into a green wire so looks like this wire is two different colors but if we follow it up uh you'll see that it goes to the fuse box in the engine room we know that because it says it here on the side engine room assembly left side of engine compartment so inside of that fuse box you'll find this alternator s fuse 7.5 amp fuse then if we follow it back up uh through here you'll see that it connects or it goes through the other fuse box under the hood and then you'll see it attaches itself where the alternator fuse is now this is actually before the alternator fuse so this is a direct feed from the battery so again if you follow this from the positive battery terminal you'll see that it goes into the fuse box here then it comes over here it goes through this fuse box through this seven and a half amp alternator fuse then it goes through this green wire then it goes through this violet or purple wire and it winds up at this s terminal pin number one so again looking at this we know that this is going to be a voltage at all times and the reason we know that is because it's a direct connection to the battery so it doesn't matter whether the key is on or off this should always have 12 volts here now if we take a look at this gray wire here you'll see it's labeled ig pin number two and this is a gray wire now ig i'm assuming is going to be for ignition which generally means that this is only going to be a power source during the time the key is in the on position so if we follow this gray wire up you'll see that it goes to the driver's side junction box which is a fuse box inside the vehicle and if we follow it up you'll see that it comes from this ignition one fuse which is a seven and a half amp fuse now the important thing to note is that up here at the top it tells us that this fuse is only hot in on or start so the key has to be on in order for there to be power going through this gray wire so that's another thing we're going to need to check we're going to go to this connector check here we should only have power here with the ignition on now if we move over to pin number four again you'll see it's designated as l i'm going to go ahead and highlight this this is a pink wire now if we follow that pink wire up you'll see that it actually goes to the combination meter which is the instrument cluster and inside of that instrument cluster we have the charge indicator lamp this is the battery light that's on inside of the uh instrument panel so if you follow this here it goes through some type of a little processor here and there's a diode in the circuit well this is actually an led i believe so we have this led diode and then this diode here but if we follow it out you'll see that it gets its power from this gauge fuse which is a 7.5 amp fuse also located in the driver's side junction box which is a fuse box inside uh something i wanted to add and this is just speaking from experience i've run into a problem before where a bad fuse here or a bad light not allowing the power to get to the alternator on this l terminal here can cause the alternator not to charge now i know it doesn't seem like it's really important because this circuit is only for the light bulb that's in the instrument cluster but on some designs there needs to be a power source or power feed going through that light bulb reaching the alternator in order for this alternator to begin charging so i don't know if that's the case here i just figured that was something i should throw in there and to be honest guys i didn't even take the time to look and see if the battery light was on in the instrument cluster so that's probably something that we should do before we dig too deep into this but anyway if we move over here to pin number three you'll see it labeled as m now i'm going to highlight this up this is the 4.0 liter so we'll highlight this here then as you can see it goes through this splice here where it splices over to looks like the ac amplifier in the center of the dash and if we follow it up you'll see that it goes to the ecm now the engine control module in this case i believe i'm not 100 sure but i believe that this alternator regulator is controlled by the ecm so what i would assume that we should have here is some type of duty cycle signal or some type of square wave that's what i would be looking for so this one we're going to have to check with the lab scope now when we check it i'm not really worried about what the duty cycle is i just want to see that we have some type of activity some type of activity here is going to indicate that the ecm is controlling the alternator and that we don't have a continuity problem between the ecm and the alternator so if we go here to this connector we're going to need to hook up a lab scope and we're just going to look for some type of signal so anyways hopefully that makes sense hopefully you guys are following along let's go ahead and move back to the vehicle and do our checks okay guys so moving back over to the vehicle if you look down here i went ahead and i disconnected the connector at the alternator i'll try to get you guys a visual i know it's kind of dark down here okay so we have our connector down here as you can see it's a four pin connector we have our purple wire that's going to be a battery power feed at all times we have the great wire which is going to be an ignition power source we have the blue wire which is going to be the control wire from the computer and we have the pink wire and that peak wire is going to be for the charging light inside of the instrument cluster so before i do any back probing i think the first thing i want to do is go ahead and reconnect this connector and i want to check to see if the charging system light is actually coming on in the instrument cluster because i didn't actually check that to begin with so that could be a dead giveaway let me go ahead and plug this thing back in okay so we are plugged back in let's go ahead and move inside the vehicle start it back up and let's see if we have a charging system indicator light got the key right here ignition on let's go ahead and crank it and start it and pay attention over here guys i think this is where the battery light was but i don't see it illuminated let me cycle the key again see if you see that battery light nope wait where is the battery light okay yeah i actually don't see a battery light at all let me see if i can take a closer look sometimes you'll be able to see the imprint where's it at i think i see the imprint it's right there can you guys see that i don't know if that's gonna show up on camera but you'll see the imprint for the airbag right there and i think that's the imprint for the battery light but it's not coming on during the bulb check turn the key off turn the key on as you can see we don't have a light during the bulb check so this is a clue that we probably need to attack the fuse for this light bulb in the instrument panel let's go ahead and move back under the hood and let's check that okay guys so according to the wiring diagram the fuse box that houses the fuse that we're looking for for the instrument panel is actually located right here on the driver's side now if you take a look at what's going on here you'll see that there's a bunch of wiring everywhere and the reason for that is because the customer i believe recently had some type of alarm installed or some type of remote start system and this is actually how they brought the vehicle in so i'm not really sure what's all going on here we have this uh box right here some fuses and you can see they tapped into all of this wiring here we have some exposed wiring here so i'm really not sure what this jumbled up mess is again they brought it in like this because i believe they thought this had something to do with the fact that the alternator was not charging i'm not really sure i mean it is possible that whatever is happening could be because of whatever is going on here again they've got all kinds of stuff tapped into the wiring over here you see they have a tap and i'm not really sure what any of this stuff is to be honest with you guys i'm not too familiar with uh these alarm systems but anyway let me show you guys where the fuse box is located it's right here if you look underneath you'll see that we have our fuses and it had this little lid on there let me show you guys the lid so if you look at the lid you'll see you can find our gauge fuse where are you right over here you'll see it says 7.5 amp gauge that's going to be the third one down which is going to be this one right here so i'm going to go ahead and take the power probe and i'm going to touch both sides of this fuse but before i do that i need to turn the ignition on so let me go ahead and do that turn the key on let's go ahead and move back under here i'm going to touch both sides of this fuse we have power there touch the other side and we have power there so we know we have a good fuse next up let's go over to the connector at the alternator and see if we have power there okay so moving back under the hood let me show you guys i have the connector disconnected down here and uh let's see if i can show you guys i have back probed on the pink wire you can see i have my back probe installed there now i'm going to go ahead and touch the tip of that back probe with my power probe and we are going to see if we have power getting to this alternator connector i'm going to go ahead and touch it now the ignition is on let's see if we got power okay so as you guys can see i'm showing about 10 volts there but uh seems to be kind of a weak voltage because normally if we have a strong voltage we should be able to get a chime or a beep out of this power probe but as you can see i'm not getting a chime or a beep out of this thing let me uh make sure i have a good connection okay so i'm double checking my connection here as you can see i went ahead and i front probed the connector just to be sure i had a good connection uh with my back probe there and as you can see i'm still showing about 10 volts but we're not getting a chime out of this power probe now the neat thing about the power probe is that because it is always constantly connected to the battery what it's doing is it's always doing a voltage drop test against the battery so it's comparing the voltage at the battery versus the tip of the power probe so if the power probe sees that there's more than like a volt of a difference between the battery and whatever it is you're trying to measure it's not going to chime it's going to give you a voltage reading which in this case we have about 10.7 volts but like i said it's just not going to chime versus if i were to take the power probe excuse me let me grab it how did you get stuck oh man let me dig you out oh there we go sorry about that so versus us touching that pin let me touch this terminal here as you can see we have 12 volts and we have a chime coming from the power probe and that's what we should have directly here because that's what we got when we checked it at the fuse in the fuse box so we know that there's high resistance in the circuit between here and there now whether or not that's causing our charging system problem i'm not really sure i think that while we're here we should probably go ahead and check the other ignition power feed which is going to be the gray wire let me go ahead and pull this back out i'm going to go ahead and move the back probe over to the gray wire and we're going to see if we have an ignition voltage feed okay so i'm front probe on this gray wire here if i could show you guys let me try to zoom in you guys see that i'm front probed on the connector i just want to make sure i got a good connection don't worry because the pin on this probe is really no thicker than the pin in the alternator so i know it's not going to damage the connector but i'm going to take my power probe and i'm going to stick the tip of it into this probe here okay so i've got the power probe here i'm going to go ahead and stick the tip into the back probe and as you guys can see we have a chime but that's actually a ground you see how it says zero voltage and it's got a green led lit up so we actually are showing a ground on this gray wire which should be an ignition power feed okay well let's go ahead and move over to the purple wire which should be a direct power feed from the battery so i'm going to go ahead and slide the probe into there okay so i'm probed on the purple wire now again this should be a battery power feed at all times so i'm going to go ahead and touch the tip of it okay as you guys can see we have a strong battery voltage power feed 12.1 volts so we know that we have good continuity to that purple wire again what we're worried about now is going to be the gray wire which is supposed to be an ignition power source and the fact that this uh pink wire seems to have high resistance in the circuit there okay guys so a quick check i wanted to do before moving any forward is i have the power pro connected to the pink wire on the connector right down here as you can see i'm probed again on the pink wire at the connector and what i want to do is i want to verify whether or not it may be normal to see this 10.6 volts on the circuit uh so what i'm going to do is i'm going to have somebody push the ground actuator so we're going we're going to give this thing a ground and then i'm going to move inside the vehicle and i'm going to see if the light comes on in the instrument panel so let's go ahead and move inside the light should be right about here go ahead and hit it ground it yep you can see our light bulb is coming on let off okay so again the reason i think it may be normal is because the light bulb in here may be some type of diode i don't know what it does but it may drop the resistance of that power feed from the fuse through the bulb out to the alternator so it may be normal to see what we're seeing on that end so i'm not going to worry about that right now i'm going to focus on the gray wire which is the ignition power source so let's go ahead and move over to that fuse okay so moving back inside the vehicle the fuse that we're looking for once again is located inside of this junction box here underneath the dash now this time the fuse that we're looking for is going to be this ignition one fuse 7.5 amp fuse and if we look down here it's located right there in between these two 10 amp fuses so once again i'm going to take the power probe and i'm going to touch both of the terminals we're going to see if this fuse is any good you see we got nothing there touch the other side and we got nothing there okay well i wasn't expecting that we should have at least a power feed on one side but we don't have a power on either side of this fuse again let me check it yep we don't have a power on either side of this fuse so maybe we need to move back to the wiring diagram and try to figure out where the power feed for that comes from but before i do that let me go ahead and pull this fuse out just to see if it's blown okay so i've got these pliers i'm going to go ahead and try to pull this fuse out like that take a look at the fuse and this fuse actually looks like it's in pretty good shape so that fuse is good let me go ahead and stick it back into the hole here and uh let's go ahead and move back to the wiring diagram all right guys so moving back over to the wiring diagram again what we're going to be focused on is going to be this uh ignition power source at the alternator this pin number two the gray wire again when we checked this at the alternator we did not find that we had any power here with the ignition on and when we checked the fuse in the fuse box this ignition one fuse we didn't have power on either side of this fuse so what we're going to need to do next is try to figure out where the power source that feeds this fuse box or feeds this ignition one fuse comes from so if you look at the top of the diagram here it says hot in on or start this diagram is not giving us the full layout of where the power source comes from that feeds this ignition one fuse so in order to find that we're going to have to move over to the power distribution wiring diagram now before we do that there is something that i want to address which is something that kind of threw me for a loop earlier uh this pink wire which is the power feed on pin number four at the alternator for the charge indicator light or for the battery light that's in the instrument cluster again when we check this at the alternator we only saw around 10 and a half volts something like that and when we checked the fuse we saw that we had a full system voltage 12 volts and so we were concerned about that initially or at least i was but looking closer at this wiring diagram again you can see that um this light bulb here and this power feed it actually goes through some type of processor some type of cpu unit before it gets outputted to the led light bulb that's in the instrument cluster so i wouldn't be surprised if there's some type of voltage drop or voltage regulation that's happening here so that's the reason why we only see somewhere around 10 volts on this wire anyways like i said that just kind of threw me off i just wanted to address that make sure there's no confusion so now that's out of the way let's go ahead and move over to the power distribution diagram all right guys so we're looking at the wiring diagram for the power distribution now this diagram is spread across six different pages but don't feel overwhelmed this is actually pretty simple and i'm gonna do my best to try to explain it in the lamest terms possible so what we're gonna do is we're gonna start by locating our ignition number one fuse and it's right here on page number five you can see seven point five amp ignition one fuse so what i'm gonna do is i'm gonna go ahead and click on this page number five what that's gonna do is it's gonna kind of lay it out in a way that we can see this page for page so this is page number five i'm gonna go ahead and click to the right this is page number six if i click to the left it goes back to page number five so let's go ahead and start with this ignition number one fuse and what we wanna do is we wanna find out where the power feed that feeds this fuse is coming from so let's go ahead and start back tracing it if we follow it down this way and we follow it up you'll see that this actually feeds some other fuses here now we're not going to focus too much on that we're going to continue to follow this power feed back and you'll see that it comes from this ignition number one relay but the important thing to note here is that this relay must be in the closed position which means this relay has to be energized in order for the switch to close in order for there to be current flow across this relay so again we're following this from the fuse up out to the relay ignition number one relay and then we're just going to imagine that this is closed we're going to follow this back through the relay then we're going to follow it this way and as you can see this actually spices off and feeds several other different relays but what we're going to do is we're going to concentrate on this and follow it up and out of the fuse box you'll see that it comes out on this black wire here so i'm gonna go ahead and continue this on page number four you can see we're on page number four our black wire is up here at the top this is a continuation just kind of running across the screen here at the top we're going right across page number four over to page number three again you can see our black wire at the top it's just going right over page number three it's gonna go over to page number two and again same thing here page number two we're going right across the top finally we get to page number one you can see the continuation of our black wire if we follow it back this way you'll see that it comes from the battery so this comes directly from the positive battery terminal but it has to travel through this 140 amp alternator fuse now this fuse you guys might remember we already checked it in fact the mechanic who originally was looking at this already checked his fuse and verified this fuse is good so we know that we don't have a problem here again this battery power feed comes directly from the battery goes through the alternator fuse goes up through here out through this black wire again page number two page number three page number four and finally page number five so our black wire is our power feed that goes into this fuse box and again this power feed gets spread out across several different relays but the one we're concentrating on is going to be this ignition number one relay that feeds our ignition number one fuse now as far as our next step we could go back to the vehicle and we could check this ignition number one relay but like i said the important thing about this is that this relay has to be energized in order for the switch to close to allow the power feed to reach the our ignition one fuse so what i want to do is i want to take a moment to concentrate on the control side of this relay this coil winding here again with any control side of the relay you're going to have two pins one is going to be the power feed to the coil winding and the other one is going to be a ground so if we follow it out this way you'll see that this is spliced together with some other relays and this is going to be a shared ground between all of these relays so if we follow it out this way you see this little squiggly line that means there's a continuation so we're going to go to the next page page number six we're going to follow our continuation down here you see our squiggly line we're going to follow it up and out of the fuse box and as you can see this goes directly to a chassis or a body ground so this is going to be a ground at all times now if we go back to page number five where our ignition one relay is this is our control side again this is going to be the power feed side now i can follow this back but just to make it easier to understand i'm going to trace the power feed directly from its source so going back to this black wire here at the top again this black wire is coming directly from the battery through the 140 amp alternator fuse it's going into this fuse box as you can see this little dot here indicates that it is a splice so this power feed is being spliced off to several different relays and also this am1 fuse so if you look here the 7.5 amp fuse is the am1 fuse i can zoom in a little bit there so we can see it sorry it's kind of difficult to read 7.5 amp am1 fuse so again our power comes in through here and gets spliced over through this 7.5 amp am1 fuse then it comes out on this green wire here now when it comes out on this green wire it continues onto the previous page you can see right here page four we're just gonna follow it right across the page over to page number three and when we get to page number three you'll see this green wire comes directly or goes to the ignition switch so you'll see right here it says am1 this green wire goes to the ignition switch and when the ignition switch is in the closed position or in the ignition position it's going to send the power feed from that am1 fuse through the switch and out through this purple or violet wire so we're going to follow this violet wire again to the next page which is page number four you'll see it travels right across page number four over to page number five and when it comes to page number five we follow it down over here you can see it goes into the fuse box and this is really important because what this does is it powers up the control side of our ignition number one relay and in fact while we're here you can see that this also supplies power for the control side of this ignition number two relay and also this ignition number three relay so you can see things that are powered by these relays like for instance if we look at relay number two here uh you can see wip i believe that's the wiper let me zoom in a little bit there all right so wip fuse washer fuse so that's the wiper fuse and the washer fuse then also the four wheel drive uh kdss i'm not sure what that is but if you look at those things you'll see that they also can't get their power feed without our power source coming in on this purple wire which again gets its power from this 7.5 amp am1 fuse now as far as what our next step should be i mean we can go back to the vehicle and check this relay here make sure that it's working you know we could probably put a relay jumper on it and try to see if we can power up this fuse um but like i said guys this relay is not going to work without the control side so i think it's also an important step to maybe go back and check this uh am1 fuse now the only other thing that i would like to add is that uh you know if this fuse is blown i mean looking at the number of different components that are powered up by this fuse you know such as the wiper blade and the washer you know you would think that none of that stuff is working so i mean it's possible that we have some components on the vehicle that are not working or accessories on the vehicle that are not working but to be honest guys i didn't even take the time to check to see what was working inside the vehicle and what wasn't so i mean i'd be interested in going back into the vehicle and double checking to see if the wiper blades work and to see if the washer works and then maybe to see if any of this other stuff works because if this fuse is blown again we're not going to have the power feed coming through the ignition switch on this purple wire and you can see this purple wire also splices off back this way we can see what else it feeds it looks like it feeds the uh power management control ecu so i wonder how that could be affected anyways guys hopefully that makes sense hopefully you're following along now let's move back over to the vehicle locate this am1 fuse and let's check it out okay guys moving back over to the vehicle uh what i wanted to do real quick before i go to checking the fuse is i just wanted to check to see what is and what isn't working again if you guys recall according to the wiring diagram if we have a problem with the power feed on that circuit we're going to have a lot of stuff that's not working so i guess the first thing we can do is check the wiper blade so i'm gonna go ahead and move the wiper blade switch see if any of this stuff is working and as you guys can see the wiper blades are not working okay so that's a clue check out this ac it's not even powering up yep blower switch none of this is working so that's another dead giveaway the radio it's uh not powering on so there's another clue um let me check the uh headlights here well looks like the headlights did come on let me see if the turn signals work you guys can see our turn signals are not working so okay yeah that's something that uh they didn't mention to me is that we have some stuff inside the vehicle that's not working this might have been some good information or useful information to have before we started but anyway let's go ahead and move down here and let's check that fuse okay so according to the wiring diagram the fuse that we're looking for the am1 fuse is located in this fuse box here as well so i've got the lid let's take a look at it our am1 fuse i see it right there this 7.5 amp fuse in the middle it's going to be the third one down so if we look down here it's going to be this one right here the third one down let me go ahead and take the power probe i'm going to touch both sides of it let's see what we got okay so i'm going to touch this side of the fuse here you guys can see we don't have any power we're actually showing the ground let's check the other side of the fuse as you guys can see we have power on that side of the fuse so that fuse is definitely blown let me go ahead and pull it out with these pliers take a look at it see if we can get a visual oh yeah that fuse is blown i don't know how well that's showing up on the camera but yeah this fuse is blown let me go ahead and get a replacement fuse stick it in there and let's see what happens okay so i've got a replacement fuse right here seven and a half amp let's go ahead and stick it into the slot get this thing in there right there okay let's go ahead and see if anything inside is working so i've got the key let's go ahead turn the ignition on you guys see our battery light right there okay ac just came on i don't know if you guys can hear the blower radio is coming on looks like everything here is working now let's go ahead and start this thing up all right engine is running let me see if the wiper blades are working yep there we go let's go ahead and move back under the hood and uh let me grab the power probe let's go ahead and check to see if our charging system is working so again we're connected to the battery i'm gonna go ahead and hit the rocker switch and we have 13.6 volts we are now charging the alternator is working you guys can see everything is back to normal now the question is why did that fuse blow does it have anything to do with all of this stuff underneath i really think so i'm pretty sure there might be a short to ground somewhere here again if we look over here this is going to be the ignition switch you can see all of the wires connected to the ignition switch and they have all of this stuff tapped in and uh here they actually cut this red wire and if you can see they kind of wired this thing in series with it so this is the other half of the red wire this should be attached to here they looped it back around i think they looped it through the box that they have down here again like i said i'm pretty sure whatever's happening has something to do with whatever's going on down here as you can see they have this wire just a bare wire and it's not really run into anything i'm not really sure what this was for it's just kind of laying there just going to kind of look around here i see this orange wire oh yeah so there's more open wire down here you can see this green wire they opened it up and they attached this orange wire here and again it's not going to anything so i'm not really sure what this was for and if we move back over here to the box you can see where they tapped into this here they tapped into this and we have just a jumbled mess of this wiring so i really think the fix is going to be removing this uh alarm system or this uh remote start system whatever it is um that's not gonna be my job i don't know i just see potential areas for a lot of uh short to grounds that could be causing that am1 fuse to blow again i'm not going to worry about that that's going to be the shop's problem they're going to have to uh charge the customer to rip the stuff out or maybe try to insulate some of this wiring other than that everything is back up and running that's a fix guys so just because i know some of you won't be satisfied with the ending of this video let me just give you a quick rundown now the thing is that i'm done here i really don't want to go any further because or not too much because the customer actually doesn't want to pay any more money for doing anything else they just wanted the thing running so at this point whatever i'm showing is just to show you guys so again the am1 fuse was blown and we know that that green wire for the am1 fuse comes from the ignition switch and i went ahead and i located it on the ignition switch again this is a connector here and pin number two is going to be this green wire right here so somewhere along the line this green wire is shorted if we follow this green wire down through here um it actually goes into the harness so let me try to show you guys this wire i don't know how well this is going to show up on the camera but this wire here it feeds into the harness and then it disappears into this main bulk harness here now it comes up on the other end at the fuse box here i believe it's this wire right here and as you can see they have something tapped into it now we do have some electrical tape here and i don't know oh yeah see we have a little bit of an exposed wire looks like they uh might have wrapped a piece of wire around this green wire and then they taped or they tapped into it here and if you follow this white wire down you know it's possible we could have a short in this white wire wherever it's going but when i follow this white wire it just goes off into this harness right there i don't know if you guys can see that goes into this harness and then it disappears so i'm not sure what's going on here check this out there's another kind of bare wire here i mean this one i don't know if it has anything to do with what we're dealing with but i'm just seeing a lot of bare wires here anyways uh we have a short to ground somewhere on that am1 circuit which is that green wire i don't know where but really the fix would be just to remove everything and put everything back to factory and fix all of the open wiring because again like i said that wiring could be touching any of this metal here on the airbag on this bracket anywhere and that's what could be causing the fuse to blow and so yeah that's where we're at anyways guys at this point i'm going to end off the video like i always say i hope you found it useful i hope you find it informational if you did make sure to give it a thumbs up if you haven't done so already make sure you subscribe to the channel hit that notification bell and i'll see you guys in the next one thanks

Channel: ADVANCED LEVEL AUTO

Views: 21,753

Rating: 4.9298244 out of 5

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Id: K7EBcdQsfZA

Length: 40min 39sec (2439 seconds)

Published: Tue Aug 25 2020