Tormek Planer Jointer Sharpening Jig SVH-320

welcome to fine tool review my name is Morten and today I'm doing some sharpening on my planer blades using the tormek t7 right here is a planer blade attachment for the tormek the sv h3 fine tool review is proudly sponsored by Highland woodwork check them out at highland woodworking calm the tormek plane blade attachment svh 320 comes with the support here it comes with the blade holder that rides along the support and it comes with an attachment screw that goes into the support and an allen key and of course the instruction booklet now I'm going to go ahead and go through the instruction booklet today and show you all the steps I found it very straightforward to use the instruction booklet there's a dozen or so steps but each one is clearly marked and laid out and easy to follow and we're going to go ahead and sharpen planer blades out of my Delta planer first I need to pop the blades out of my planer so I popped out the two planer blades out of my planer and i marked which side was currently cutting these are double edged so our mark with side is currently cutting and I'm going to sharpen that side first let me go ahead and show you how we set up the jig on the tormek t7 and then we get to sharpening these blades the first thing we want to do is make sure that our wheel is perfectly round and square and clean so if you need to go ahead and use the truing tool to clean up the wheel then go ahead and pop off the universal support on this Cormac t7 and we'll put on the planer jig support so just pops right in and you can lock it down here at the back so now I'm going to go ahead and drop my blade into the jig and it goes bevel side down so this is the back of the blade bevels now at the bottom I'm just going to drop it in there and I want to make sure that it's nestled right there at the bottom not lift it up at all but nestled right there at the bottom all the way across go ahead and drop it in tighten up thumb screws all the way across snug them up and I'll put the blade the end of the blade right near this first thumb screw and these are about 13 inch blades so it's hanging off the end here but that's fine this jig can work with blades that are longer than 12 inches so I will just put this one right to this knob and then when we're done grinding this section we'll go ahead and move the blade over and grind the rest of it now that I've got the blade in there I'm going to go ahead and draw with a permanent marker all the way along the blade here and this will help us see exactly where we're grinding to make sure the blade doesn't run off the wheel as you're grinding you can set the stop here this little pin hits this stop so make sure that you set that using the supplied allen key you can move it over to make sure that your blade never runs off of the wheel and of course there's a stop at the other end for the other end of the blade we want to set our initial bevel angle to this same bevel it's currently on the planer blade so we'll take the jig and make sure it's tight to the support that there's no gap between the jig and the support and we'll raise and lower the whole support using the micro adjusting screw on the back and the adjustment screw which raises and lowers the whole jig and we want to set this initial angle so that the stone is touching all across the bevel of the planer blade so here on the back you can raise and lower the hole jig support on on the wheels using these micro adjusting screws keep them the same on both sides and then go ahead and lock it in with the two locking screws here and you can also use this adjustment screw to push the whole support forward and backwards take your time and using the combination of the height adjustment and the adjustment screw set the initial bevel angle making sure that the jig is tight to the support and you've got the angle exactly set to your original planar blade angle the initial adjustment can be a little fussy just takes a couple of minutes that'll take your time just make sure that the jig is tight to the support and you just want to set that stone right to the blade at the initial bevel angle now that I've got my height pretty much where I want it to be using the micro adjust thumb screws in the back I'll double-check that we are tight the jig holding the blade is tight to the sled in the back he's on a piece of paper double-check that and now I'll go ahead and turn the wheel by hand and this will grind away a little bit of metal right there and we can double check where we marked it with the marker and make sure that we're grinding at the correct angle so we'll pull it up here and you can see our grant pretty much ground the marker away right there and that's just where we want to be you don't want to be too much at the front or the back or you're not at the right angle leaving you a lot of extra work now that I've got the jig set at the correct angle to grind away some of the metal I'm going to go back to those micro adjusting screws in the back and raise them one little number which is 1/10 of a millimeter so now I can just barely slip my piece of paper in between the jig holder and the back and that's the amount of metal that we're going to go ahead and grind away from the front two quick tips as I'm getting ready to grind here the first is that this creates a lot of water dripping off the end of this blade so I've done is tilted the machine slightly this direction by putting a shim on this side under the feet on the left side of the machine and therefore the water would drip off the right and I've got some extra rags sitting on my bench here to catch all that water second tip is to make sure you keep pressure on the top here as well as here you can if you only put pressure down here near the blade you can easily pop this off of the sled here so definitely keep it tight to the sled and that's going to control your depth of grind here we go okay that was definitely about one minute or less of going back and forth I've reached almost across the whole bevel but I've hit all the way across the front and if I feel on the back I can feel that burr so I'm very close to my initial angle a little bit higher but I hit all the way across the front raising that bar so we're good to go I just have to slide the blade down slightly and hit this last little part so to do that simply loosen all these thumb screws shift the blade move some up shift the blade so now this one is right near that thumb screw in there make sure it's tight to the back lock all those up even pressure across put it back down and we're ready to do the last little bit there we go got it to the other end so that was that blade the grinding took about one minute to do the whole thing and now that that one's done we'll go ahead and pop the second one into the blade holder and we've already set everything up and we're just another minute and we'll be done this edge now that I've gone ahead and raised a burr on the back I'm going to quickly take that off using the strop side here on the tarmac that is nick free and pretty darn sharp so I've ground and honed both my planer blades in fact both sides mine are double beveled and I ground and honed the other side by simply dropping the jig another tenth of a millimeter flipping the blade around and doing the other side once you know what you're doing with the setup here the whole thing probably takes less than half an hour getting the jig in there getting it set to that initial angle takes a little bit of time just to get it set up just right and then the grinding takes literally five minutes or so to do both blades both sides it goes really quickly let me go ahead and pop these back in the planer now two things I want to make sure that I mentioned the first is that my planer blades are actually disposable blades they're not really meant to be resharpened now this jig can handle blades that are wider than half an inch and mine are just barely half an inch so I was able to sharpen them this time but I don't think I'm gonna get very many sharpening out of these blades and of course the second thing is that this jig can handle both planer blades and jointer blades so you can do both your planer blades and your jointer blades on this Jay so now you've seen just how easy it is to sharpen planer blades using this attachment for the tour Mac you can sharpen planer blades of any width and jointer blades as well all in all it took me maybe an hour that includes popping the blades out of the planer setting up the jig sharpening them and getting them back in once you know what you're doing the whole thing is pretty straightforward now the jig is pretty expensive as is the tour Mac okay but for I don't know maybe 180 bucks you get to resharpen your blades rather than grabbing new ones or using a sharpening service so go ahead and factor that in see how many times you're going to buy new blades how many times you're going to sharpen send a mile for sharpening and this jig actually becomes worthwhile pretty quickly depending on how often you do that so it's definitely worth checking out it's the SV H 320 planer blade attachment for the tormek t7 very easy to use the instructions I found to be very straightforward easy to follow and that's exactly what you've seen in the video today so thanks for checking out the tormek jig today on fine tool review you can always find me on Twitter Google+ YouTube and find tool review.com I really like this jig I found it easy to use easy to set up it's on the pricier side once you start factoring in the sharpening z' I think the thing does actually pay for itself pretty quickly for both your jointer and your planer knives you're not buying new ones and you'll have to set them out for sharpening so let me know what you think about this jig and what you think about the tormak in general fine tool review calm you

Channel: FineToolReview

Views: 170,802

Rating: 4.4914613 out of 5

Keywords: woodworking, tormek, planer, jointer, sharpening, jig, svh-320

Id: ThOW3LZYGvc

Length: 11min 43sec (703 seconds)

Published: Sun Mar 11 2012