Tools and Materials used in Bespoke Tailoring

handcraft bespoke tillering by virtue of its name its title tells you you need tools that you work with your hands we don't use a lot of machine and here we have the basics of what is required needle thimble chalk tape measure shears and some materials to work with first of all we'll start with the chalk because tables we work miracles with pins chalk and tape here is the hancock chalk it's a square chalk you would have seen the triangle chalks i prefer to work with the square chalk so the rectangle chalk if you like to be more exact is because i can use all four sides i've got four sides to use it's a little bit more efficient when i'm working tape measure of course here both imperial and metric inches centimeters here i use both and you'd find that very easy to relate to needles of course hand sewing we need needles and here is the between needles john james betweens number seven between number seven and number nine they're the perfect needle for sewing the various stitches this number seven you would find would be more comfortable when you're doing the filling of linings and cross stitches and so on but when it comes to basting you'll find number nine needles are better because it's slightly longer a lot of the basting is done on the table so we would need to actually go down and up again so the needles being slightly longer is essential thimbles symbol as your right hand it is worn on the middle finger of the right hand the action of the needle and thimble movement is one complete action so when you push the needle you push the needle from the back of the finger short ruler for marking out short areas like pockets and so on and of course we have a yard or a centimeter or a meter rather longer rule for the longer lines the square here which i use a lot because all the measurements are calculated in eight quarters and halves i tend to use uh sixteenths eighth quarters and halves when i'm drafting patterns because all the measurements is much more efficient because measurements are calculated it's all very traditional old-fashioned materials and tools the shears paper shears for cutting patterns it's it's very cleverly designed you've got a very very long handle with a short blade and the object of this here is that when we're cutting the paper we won't damage our hands or the paper won't cut our hands because pattern paper is very very sharp cutting shears full cutting shears this i acquired from mr morris said well he bought this when he started his apprenticeship in 1930 i think it was and i acquired it in 1988 for mr sedwell when i took over running maurice said well unlimited very essential as well it's the tracing wheel very sharp spikes here and the object of a very sharp spike is again you're transferring information from the cloth onto the paper so when we penetrate the cloth like this and you see there's absolutely no damages at all the paper is below the cloth so that we transfer the information from the cloth onto the paper to create a master template for each customer we can see the patterns here that i've made which is transferring information from the cloth onto the paper using the tracing wheel and then highlighting it with the pen marks pocket details and dark details and so on trimmers smaller trim is easy when you're working on a machine or you have to cut ends of threads easy to actually work with they all have their own purpose cutting patterns cutting cloth cutting threads and sometimes cutting the interlinings and body linings because it's lighter there are just three or four different types of threads that we use in tailoring actually the first one of course is the basting thread generally in white only because we can actually distinguish the white threads from the actual finishing threads which the finishing threads are matching the cloth of the garment that you're making the white threads are not because you can see this threads it's strong enough so that it won't break when you put the garment on to for a fitting but not too strong that you can't you can't take it apart and now we've got a slightly heavier stronger cotton but thin compared to the finishing cottons see there's a little bit more tension required to break this one okay there and of course the machine thread which is a standard cotton thread just a little thicker than the other two but strong enough because bear in mind you're making a garment with this thread has to be strong enough so that the seams won't break and you can see more tension to this one the strongest thread of all is the gunterman hand silk as you can see it's a pure silk especially for hand sewing the edges and linings and so on but i tend to do a lot more sewing with the hand silk than any other tailor because a lot of the work i do is is actually crafted by hand very little machine work you will come to learn it comes in one meter length just over one yard so that we can comfortably sew when we stretch our hands out do you have any tips for threading a needle absolutely i do make sure that the thread goes straight through the hole there so this is approximately half a meter or 20 inches so that when you're sewing you're holding a garment here you're sewing you don't have to pull a long way away so it's comfort it's speed and so on thimble needle one complete action not four actions but one action into the thread and back out again which i will demonstrate later on to you now we're going to cover the most important or perhaps one of the most important which is the cloth so if you'd pass me that length of cloth here please this is the material that the suit's going to be made of it's 100 pure cashmere cable stripe by scabal very tightly spawned wusted if you feel that soft luxurious this is what we can how heavy is this cloth this in ounces this is approximately nine ounces which is a good all year round wait very good question all the year around wait you know winter time you'd wear a coat summertime perhaps you won't but you won't want to wear a suit anyway but this is a good all year round weight when you've got to wear for business now here i've decided to set myself a challenge as i teach you how to make a suit i've chosen to to use a striped cloth the reason why i've chosen to use a stripe is because i've got to match the stripes and i'll show you the process of actually cutting the garment to match the stripe all the way through the making process as well you would need approximately three meters 30 for a suit length but for the jacket you'd need just two meters and you can get your supplies could be halloween cherries cabal male brown and dunsford domay lots of the top merchants as we're doing handcraft tailoring to a very very high standard i would want you to buy the finest materials as well it's very important the engine the foundation of the garment has to be of the finest quality because the exterior which is like the surface you know would also look pretty would last long look attractive bear in mind you're sculpting cloth into a form to be portrayed by people who would be wearing them so make sure that you choose the right cloths and what do you look for in a good cloth it is the durability the fineness of the yarn the strength of the cloth but what is important when if you're working for customers for instance you've got to communicate or you've got to ask what would the purpose of the suit be and then depending on the purpose of a suit then you would choose a cloth accordingly and material then interlining if you pass this canvas for me this is the body canvas which is helps create the foundation of the garment this is actually i import my all my body linings from italy it's made especially for me it's made of cotton and horse hair the reason why it's horses because if you bend the horse here it always wants to come back straight and now the foundation of the garment is so that when you crumple it it actually comes back up without all the creases you would need one meter of horse here you can acquire this from cyber academy then we have the chest canvas which comes from the waist upwards and that is also has a higher percentage of horse hair the body canvas has a lesser percentage of horse here the chest canvas has a higher percentage because it's a lot springer you can see it is not that full sharp you can see it comes into the circle there that round which it means that this does not bend quite as easily and it springs right back you want the chest area to be slightly firmer soft but firmer whereas from the chest down has to be light and loose and a lot more comfortable for the garment when it's being worn or for the person who is wearing the garment the chest canvas is called lap tier as well commonly called a chest canvas because it goes in the chest but the correct name is lactair you would need approximately 18 inches of lapches what's that in 36 about 45 centimeters now the hand stitches that we do with the very light weaker threads has to be sunk into the cloths now because of this being horse here the stitches can't be sunk into the horse here so we have a very soft cashmere-like cloth which is made it's actually pure cotton this phases serious as a as a pure cashmere doesn't it yeah when we saw through the chest canvas we saw under the mat this is called a domet so the threads actually sink into the pile surface of this so when you press over it you get a smooth press and how much we need the mat again you need approximately one third of 30 centimeters or so would be enough you get this from savile row academy all the materials and and the fabrics and the cloths that you need cyber academy can provide that to you right we've done the main cloths for and the fabrics required for the foundation of a suit now this here is linen and silica silicious used for pocket bags strong very very tightly woven which is used for the pocket bag here we have linen which is usually used in pockets and edges of jackets but i tend not to use linen for the edge of the jacket i used a bias hermazine lining tape and the reason for that is that um we can have a nice thin edge soft thin edge but without um it being limp and this is it why is it on the uh on the bias because there's a little bit of movement and stretch you know it's like if you if you had a building that's very solid it'll fall over with heavy winds same with the sewing seams you've got to have a certain amount of movement into the seam so this seams won't break now this is a bit of fun this is the body lining that you we're using for for this suit it coordinates nicely but it also stands out in itself and this is pure silk lining that can be purchased anyway your choice of lining is unlimited you can use fancy lining plain linings uh anything you like but it's softer it's lighter so when you put the garment on slips over the shirt this is this is slips on easily always use a lining just lighted an actual cloth for the suit the reason for that you don't want the lining which is on the inside to be controlling the cloth on the outside has to be lighter there are lots and lots of different qualities and designs that you can choose the amount that you need should correspond with the amount that you need for the suit you need three meters for a suit but in this case we're making a jacket which we need two meters and uh getting two meters of lining is is more than you need to be exact one meter eighty of lining always be very aware of uh saving costs two meters is it would be okay but i think one meter is 80 will be just about right and what would you recommend material wise for full linings usually a polyester is is a good lining affordable this is a lot more expensive being silk but you know polyester lining or cupra lining is actually quite good as well next is a sleeve board would you like to pass that over for me please sleeve board essential when it comes to shaping the garment this will be padded and here we'll press the chest the sleeves and various parts of the garment you get it closer to you and you can control whatever you're working on the sleeve board where would i find one of these well i tend to have mine made okay and you will observe on this one the base here is narrower than the top and this is the the top part and quite a bit is a bit that you need to use i've seen i've seen some on ebay um but they're not quite as as big as this do they have to be of at least this size well this size it's ideal because here i can get the sleeves into the edge i can then turn to the side when we come to the process of making to open the seams and the front edge as well so it has more than one purpose not just for the sleeves but for opening the edges the front edges and opening seams when you don't want to get the weight and the heat of the iron and the rest of the cloth but just to be focused on the seam that you opened use used edge here this is a weight that you can get from more plan it's a good length i tend to use two of these actually which is laid onto the paper pattern which is onto the cloth so when i'm chalk marking the pattern does not move along so this is a very useful piece of kit to have as well now it's really really important that you have all the right equipment in an effort to make the perfect suit you're putting a lot of time and effort in training yourself to a very very high standard if you have the right equipment then you can be assured of progressing in the right way for becoming a master tailor fantastic

Channel: Maurice Sedwell

Views: 870,749

Keywords: savile row, tailoring, craft, handmade, master tailor, bespoke tailoring, suits, mens suits, ladies suits, mens style, luxury, maurice sedwell, andrew ramroop, bespoke, london, fashion, style

Id: kI7NyuQ8T5M

Length: 14min 56sec (896 seconds)

Published: Thu Jan 14 2021

Reddit Comments

[u/invertedpencil]

perfect. thank you.

[u/Tidemike]

Andrew Ramroop the unintentional Asmr king.

[u/benjamminyo]

Would love to see the finished product

[u/mooklynbroose]

Excellent, thank you

[u/780fan]

Perfect

[u/youseeit]

That young man looks like he's trying to decide whether it's OK for him to even speak