TIG Welding Repairs - everlast powertig 210ext

hey Jody heareth welding tips and tricks' calm today we're going to work through a handful of TIG welding repairs on some carbon steel stainless steel and aluminum these are just really common repairs that you would see from a machine shop things like a miss drilled hole that needs to be filled in so that it can be relocated or or there's not supposed to be a hole there a chamfer on the wrong side it's not supposed to be there you need to build it back up or just a place for a tool crashed or a place that that the mill got crazy and went a little too deep or it needs needs to be built back up sometimes parts can be salvaged like that if a welder can add just the right amount of metal in the right place without distorting the part then everybody's happy other times part needs to be remade but that is that's the machinist job to make that decision if he needs he needs apart saved and you can save it you can pick up a little little work on the side so this is a good example of a part here it's a dead part it looks like it was probably just used for a setup but it's a good example of a lot of machining has been done already some millwork and some some large chamfers some threaded holes and then on the backside here we got what appears to be where the tool changer just didn't pick up something right and crashed into it now my main concern there would be that there's bits of carbide bit in there that just broke off from the end mill or whatever so I'm doing a little grinding here get them mostly out of there and check sparks it looks like it's just big burrs they got dug out of just just mild steel but we'll give it a little quick wipe with acetone and then that's ready for welding now I'm doing all the welding today with this machine here it's a never last power TIG 210 ext I've done a lot of machine shop repairs over the years with an inverter of about this size a 200 amp inverter so we'll go through the settings here real quick and basic basic settings I'm not using anything here fancy I'm just putting it on DC using the foot pedal I want to set the post flow to a little higher than just enough to keep the electrode silver so I'll go on up to ten seconds 0.2 second pre flow I want to have the start amps high enough to get a good crisp start because it's really thick metal so by setting the amperage of about 15 I'll make sure you get a really crisp start with a good sharp 332nd electrode and I'm going to bump the amperage all the way up to 160 here I know I won't need quite that much but if I do at start I'll have it and I'll just work the foot pedal from there also undo a quick check on my perch I hit the gas purge button there that lets me check the purge while like without having to worry about the post flow timer running out and I'll set it at 20 I'm going to be using a number 8 gas lens cup here today that's why I'm setting the gas flow at 20 and I am using 1/16 diameter that's 1.6 millimeter diameter er 70 s6 wire it looks like stainless wire there's no copper coating on it but it's not at CR 70 s6 it's just not coated with copper no reason for me choosing that other than it was handy I would just as readily pick up a er 70 s 2 wire for this repair but I'm starting in the middle I'm adding quite a you know a little bit of heights to it and then I'm just going to work my way out and this is kind of a little trick I learned from a guy at Pratt & Whitney about kind of how to build up a round area without having too much shrinkage stress start in the middle and then kind of like build beads around it so that the beads have something to hug on to as they shrink helps a little bit not a huge difference but I'm doing it this way just for kicks and then I'll work my way all the way out to the very edge and let it cool before I put that last bead on there the gas lens helps each bead to stay shiny and keeps the oxidation down so that the top beads that you put over top of those flow over nice and smoothly it's still nice and shiny but I got one more bead to put around the outside I'll give it a quick wire brushing and I'll let it cool for about a minute or so this is a good half inch thick piece of metal so heats not building up very quickly one more pass around the outside will take care of it trying to keep the tip of that rod shielded with the argon a number 8 gas lens cuff is a half inch gasps lens and all other cups are numbered by the sixteenth of an inch at least in the USA they are so I'm trying to keep the tip of that rod shielded and it's not too difficult to do because with that large shielding area from that number eight gasolines cup gives me a bigger gas envelope and I'm going to work my way inward here and this do a little kind of little a little blending with the arc to make it easier to mill or grind or whatever for whoever whoever has to do that make sure I don't have any low places which come blends the high places in with the low places all right so that little repair is done in the eight gas lens did a great job well that was a really simple repair just filling in a little miss cut and nothing to it really so I've got a couple more little carbon steel repairs here and we'll pay into those and we'll get right on to them I'll just describe them when we look at them up close this is just regular old cold rolled steel here as well ten ten to ten twenty carbon steel and but it's got a milled area there that's not supposed to be there and again this is a piece of scrap so but it's a good example I've seen this many times things like this where you know the the the CNC operator has to pull to pull the part out of the machine for something or hit the kill button and then he doesn't hit the sequence button right something happens where it doesn't it doesn't pick up the last step like it's supposed to and then you got a cut area that you're not supposed to have so the idea here is to kind of build some boundaries around this thing so the edges stay built up to where they could mill off so I'm kind of building four-sided little dams here put a bead on each end and then I'm now going to run two more beads to make boundaries on the other edges to make sure they're high enough to give me something to weld to so I'm pushing a little filler wire in there each time here as I weld because it is a build up job so I don't want to just dab it in the minimum amount I want to feed a little rod in there make sure it's I got enough bead height that it doesn't go to the mill and then come back with another low play that's the worst thing in the world when you build something up with weld you send it to back to the machinist and then there's still not enough and now it's got to be reweld so rule of thumb on build up jobs when you think you have enough put a little bit more for sides built up here and kind of like some boundaries to go by it now I'm just going to point the electrode in this direction now I can go fairly hot to make sure that I don't have any voids and I'm going to run more or less one continuous bead just changing directions and then overlapping the previous run across by half just kind of keeping an eye on everything to try to make sure I push enough further wire in there to make it high enough that it would machine off without any low places just more of the same and then I'll stop about 3/4 way through and then come back from the other direction and then it looks something like that here's another example of a job you might have to do for a machine shop and that is well down inside a hole like this maybe that step got machined down you know 50 100 150 thousands further than it should be now this is a simple part it probably would just be remade again really all there is to it is piece of bar stock with a couple of holes that have been drilled with a step in them but just for the sake of example I'm going to extend the electrode out really far with this number eight gasolines cup I'm going to weld down inside there after having cleaned it out with a carbide burr I've also got a piece of aluminum backing this up to kind of trap the argon that really helps a whole lot so even though I've got the electrode extended almost three quarters of an inch it was pretty clean down in there all right now for the aluminum let's chamfer that's not supposed to be there is a very common thing and that's something that can easily be repaired and machine back off in this case the aluminum is relatively clean so all I'm doing is acetone wipe prior to welding now we're going to swap over to alternating current advanced square wave here using the foot pedal no pulse or anything let's set the AC balance to 40 percent cleaning that's the equivalent of 60% en that's going to be enough cleaning to give me a nice clean bead and that's really all I want for for one bead or two beads down that chamfer I'm not concerned about focusing the arc I'm not concerned about deep penetration I just want a clean bead that will machine off without any pits or pinholes in it so we'll set the post flow now to just enough to keep that electrode silver which you know somewhere around nine seconds should do that don't have don't need any more than that for aluminum and I'll still keep the point two seconds pre flow start amps I'm going to set up fairly high so I'll get a nice crisp start I'll have a blunt tapered electrode I don't want any stuttering on the start and I'm going to crank it up to 200 amps and just work it with the foot pedal and after the fact I did not need anywhere close to 200 amps didn't know that going in though because this is a half-inch chunk of metal that's at room temperature so I'm running a bead right down that chamfer trying to wrap the edges which is why I didn't really want a narrow bead with a focus dark like you might have with you know 100 or 120 Hertz so this is said it's 77 Hertz and I'm just going to turn around and weld backwards and go in the opposite direction welding backwards like this often times puts a higher crown on the weld which is really kind of what I want there's another view of it I want a higher crown because it's got a machine off theoretically anyway to a corner so if I'm building up a chamfered area like that it makes sense to make a higher crowned bead like that so that's two two runs there without stopping starting on the corner welding in board and then turning around and well in the other direction and that looks like that would clean up by machining pretty well and then also just messed around going backwards twice running two passes welding like this feeding the rod from the backside one thing you do have to do is you have to do a little backwards motion to kind of rimmel to any little trailers from pulling the rod in and out but after doing that making two passes it's still made for a pretty decent pretty decent fix that would machine off just fine now for the stainless job it's just a little stainless bracket that I pulled out of a scrap bucket and let's just pretend that middle holes not supposed to be there that the slots are in the middle holes not that's a very common thing to have to fill a hole I like to use aluminum backing so I save all the chunks of aluminum like this I can get my hands on ideally use argon backing for something like this but it's really not necessary that aluminum works just about as well so all I'm going to do now is just swap it over to DC and then bump the amperage down just a little bit and still control it with the foot pedal and weld with that aluminum backing on the back side what we'll do is we'll trap argon it'll trap the argon shielding gas and won't let it flow through and create any kind of venturi effect or anything like that and it just helps everything shield better it also provides a place if you if you go overboard and really really use a lot of heat the molten metal can only go so far so it's not going to like droop through like a big mound and you know where you have to grind it off afterwards so I could really weld a lot hotter than I am here but I'm just trying to use minimal heat because this is stainless steel so that's a good practice on stainless not to use any more heat than what's necessary and I will taper off now let it cool for about a minute for I then come back and then touch it up add a little bit to where it could be either blended off or machined off I don't want to do it all in one run though just a little bit camping out too long on a piece of stainless to do that all in one run the whole fill and build up here so I'm just running once around it add a little a little bit of little dab of rod coming across the middle taper off to avoid a crater hole and then that side is done it's quarter inch thick metal that's about I guess a 6 point something millimeters thick for everybody outside the US give it a little wire brushing here kind of inspect it make sure it's going to be okay and it will let it cool for just a moment flip it over keep it on that aluminum block to pull out the heat and then touch up the other side you can see a little area here that a little deeper than others I'll focus on that area first and kind of pump some amperage in there looking at it after the fact that probably would have done better if I'd have gone all the way around it rolling metal around the edges and then and then filled up the middle that's just not the way I did it don't know why so light up on it now and I'll I'll melt all that stuff that I didn't get the first time around and then I'll start adding rod and it will build it up a little bit to where it can be blended off flush and then we'll call it done all right all right a word about gas line setups now this is sort of a commercial so if you got a problem with that you might want to bail out now but I think that there is some good info to be had in the rest of the video as well standard style cups using certain stick out lengths just don't work as well as gas lenses I've set up one with a 7/16 stick out here with 20 cfh and number six cup 45 amps on a stainless steel lap joint and you can see it's gray it's early it's not flowing well I'm not doing this on purpose I promise it just at a certain stick out distance stainless just doesn't do well if it doesn't have good gas coverage and it looks like seven sixteenths is just beyond the coverage distance for this style cup now doing the same setup with a gas lens and this is a stubby gas lens kit here on a large torch but I've even set it out a little bit further with a number six gas lens cup same size cup same flow twenty cfh even longer stick out I'm going to call it seven sixteenths but it's longer same amperage same everything and there is a huge difference stainless steel really kind of brings it out more more so than a lot of things but you know in addition to using a good technique where you get in get your puddle started get moving don't let the heat build up a gas lens is your best friend for doing stainless steel sheet metal and in the exercises I did in the video all those repairs for machine-shops stainless steel and whatnot where I'm welding bead on top of bead it makes it go a lot better you'd be hard-pressed to find a welder that that bought a gasoline setup and regretted it and thought man I wish I'd never fool with this gas lens so anyway I do sell them both now I sell a stubby kit that's for large style torches like the seventeen and twenty six so not only does it shrink the size of your torch a little bit but it gives you a lot better coverage now I've got the gas lens kits that if you already have a small style torch like a nine or twenty this is what you need the six seven and eight cup along a long end cap along with a button and a mid-sized one size each of electrodes along with the 1/16 332nd and 1/8 diameter setups but you can stick out your electrode a little bit farther get a little bit better coverage so that when you're doing bead on top of bead on top of bead build up like this it comes out a lot better all right thanks for watching appreciate your time we'll see you next week

Channel: weldingtipsandtricks

Views: 159,259

Rating: 4.9569893 out of 5

Keywords: tig welding, tig welding aluminum, tig welding stainless, tig welding carbon steel, tig welding repairs, starting a welding business, tig overlay, tig welds, tig welding tips, tig welding technique, Gas Tungsten Arc Welding (Literature Subject)

Id: 4EjRYhJgpiw

Length: 17min 19sec (1039 seconds)

Published: Tue Feb 24 2015