well hello everyone and welcome back to adrianne's digital basement it's been a while since I've done any kind of Macintosh repon and I thought maybe it's time to do one right now so on the bench we have three classic macintoshes and by classic I mean the form factor which goes all the way back to the original Macintosh or also known as the Macintosh 128 we have a Macintosh SE a Macintosh classic and we mcage classic 2 the state of these machines well I have no idea about any of them they were given to me they were about to be recycled so they were saved from recycling hopefully in this video or potentially in multiple videos I can see what's wrong with these things we can get them fixed up and get them working again so without further Ado let's get right to [Music] it now when we look at these three machines and we think about the reliability of the comp computer How likely are these to actually work even in this rough State the Macintosh SE is definitely one of the most reliable of the classic macintoshes I'd say the Macintosh 128 512 and plus are also similarly reliable but the benefit of the SE over those other machines is that it has internal scuzzy and external scuzzy the minosh plus has only external scuzzy and those other two machines don't really support hard drives at all so if you get one of these Macintosh SE they're relatively inexpensive and that's compared to the Macintosh se30 which is probably one of the more expensive of these types of macintoshes and the Mac SE is just a good honest Machine 8 MHz 68,000 the motherboard doesn't have leaky caps on it so it's almost certainly going to be perfect unless the battery has destroyed itself and the power supply on this thing is a very high quality Sony unit that that generally works all the time too there are just some minor issues that come up with these machines and they're generally relatively easy to fix now the Macintosh classic which we could call the successor to the SE was a lowcost version of the SE same performance 8 MHz 68000 has an internal scuzzy hard drive has external scuzzy capability as well it's pretty much feature comparable to the SE the one main advantage of this over the SE is that not all se's have 1. 4 or4 megabyte floppy drive support a lot of them like this one well at least on the outside it looks like it only supports 800k discs and those can be harder to make so if you're looking for a machine where you want to make some boot discs well it's harder with the Mac SE and all the earlier machines but the Mac classic and everything else like later than the SE can read 1.44 megabyte discs which means you can take a regular PC or a Mac or any monor computer and get a USB floppy drive and actually just make uh a dis image that can boot this machine so that's kind of nice but there are lots of negatives to this machine over the SE the motherboard that's in here is filled with capacitors that can leak really badly and that can cause massive damage to the board worst case but best case is you still have to recap them before you can even get a working system and recapping service Mount caps is not everyone's cup of tea so if you want to avoid that or you don't have someone that you can trust to do it for you then you might want to avoid Classics don't be under any illusion that any classic that's out there at this time in 2024 that has not been recapped doesn't need to be recapped on the motorboard they all do 100% of them do need a recap the other problem is the power supply board which sits over here on these macintoshes on the left side well these machines came out I don't know 90 91 something like that and unfortunately the '90s are when capacitors just in general started to suck this computers from the 80s this thing from the 90s means that often the Caps that are on the power supply also leak now I found plenty of them that didn't leak and they work fine but I've had lots of these or they did leak and that causes an issue moving on to the classic 2 it's basically the same exact problems as the regular classic the main difference between this machine besides the fact that it's got this really kind of a ugly glare filter on it uh the only main difference between this and the classic is that this is faster this has a 68030 processor I think it runs at 16 MHz that's the same speed as the se30 unlike the sc30 which is a very desirable Macintosh this one is not really expandable the se30 has a processor direct slot so there were a bunch of add-ons for it like ethernet cards and accelerators and video cards and stuff like that none of them exists for this thing this has a similar problem with the power supply though so that kind of is a cheap cost reduced thing and they can go bad and leak and of course the motherboard is the same form factor and it can totally well it will have leaky caps on it generally everything about these machines is fully interchangeable you can put a classic 2 motherboard into a classic and vice versa the classic 2 I think has audio input not just audio output and because of that if you put it in here you have to remove I think you have to remove a jack like if a desolder the input jack I don't think there's a hole on the back of the case for that but otherwise they are interchangeable once you get them up and running and like say you've recapped the output part of the power supply and you've recapped the motherboards and cleaned up all the corrosion and stuff then generally they're good honest machines and they're very reliable as well it's just out of the box the SE is almost certainly going to work perfectly well there's 0% chance that these are going to work so that's my Spiel on these classic macintoshes I think what I'm going to do is put them on the floor and we're going to focus on the Mac SE for this episode so first things first I have it on the turntable here let's take a look at it so as I mentioned before this is the version that does not have the highdensity disc drive at least the it originally wasn't it could have been upgraded it would say HD FD on the bottom here FD for floppy Drive HD for high density so this one doesn't appear to have that it's in really really dirty shape but it doesn't look like it's completely too far gone so a little cleaning and a little TLC should go a long way to make this thing look pretty good I don't immediately see any kind of burning on the screen so that's good if we look at the side here uh we can see that the machine is not really together for whatever reason the side looks fine this other side looks fine as well and on the back we can see the specs about this machine all right so you can always tell quite a bit from well at least how the machine was originally speced so this was only a 1 Megabyte machine with a single 800k drive and a 20 megabyte hard drive you did have mac sees that were sold with four Megs you had Mac se's that were sold with dual internal disc drive so it would say 800k or 2800k and no internal hard drive the Mac SE actually has expandability as well and that is compared to the Mac classic which did not and I don't think a lot of people did it or used it but this is the breakout or the blank that you can remove from the back of the case there were internal accelerators and things like that and there were also video cards to drive an external Monitor and what you do is you pop out this blank and there's a mounting braack up behind it and that's where you could connect things up there were also ethernet cards and I'm sure disc drive adapters I don't know all sorts of other stuff so there was some expandability and it's pretty cool that Apple decided to add that considering all the macintosh's pr to that did not have any such expandability the port layout on the Mac SE is exactly the same as it is on the Macintosh Plus so you have 28b ports floppy Drive Port scuzzy Port printer modem or apple talk as well as one of these and you have a headphone jack or audio output another nicity over the older Max is that the switching power supply that's in here is built by Sony I think it typically is or maybe Aztec I think there were a couple manufacturers and I think it's multiv voltage which means you can use a North American one in well overseas markets and it does work it says here that the voltage range is 100 to 240 volts kind of cool unlike the Macs before the Mac SE Apple also added a fan and the early versions of the fan was sort of like a cage fan so it looked like a hamster wheel and it was very noisy and a mod to do well a mod that Apple did and also third parties could do is you would swap that out with a regular fan that would just make the machine a whole lot quieter but that's a nice addition because the original Max had no fan and they used convection cooling entirely and they had vents along the top of the machine and they would get pretty hot and I think it would kind of bake the machines it probably was fine because there's a lot of macintoshes out there Mac pluses and stuff that work perfectly today but I think people were uneasy with the amount of heat that came out of the machine so Apple added this and I think it was a necessity in a way because the hard drive that was added into this thing definitely you know added more load and created a lot of heat on its own cuz old hard drives just did so the fan was a good necessity and it kept these things running cooler anyhow all the screws are removed already from this there are two here and then there were two under the handle you do need an unreasonably long screwdriver to get the two on the top out so let's get the back cover off so we can see what this looks like on the inside all right so right off the bat there's this Shield here and this is normal for all macintoshes you definitely want to keep this it says plastic here there is RF shielding going on but it's mainly the fact that this plastic here keeps the bottom of the motherboard from touching the bottom of the case and if we look inside the case you can see that it's sort of a shiny metallic color and that's because it's Metalized or the coating on here is Metalized and it's probably conductive so if the motherboard kind of bends and touches this at all or you bend up on the bottom of the case then it could could cause a short looking inside this machine it's not looking too bad right off the bat the CRT neck board is off now that's not necessarily a bad thing that's actually a good thing because someone has already removed the scuzzy hard drive from this machine now when you're doing that if this is attached it's very easy to bump this and accidentally break the CRT you will neck the CRT and let air into it which renders it useless and you will need to replace it so the Little Neck board here I'll just reattach it just to demon state so while it's attached right there all you have to do to get it off is just gently pull it and you rock it off like that and then you can kind of tuck it out of the way and that just ensures that you don't accidentally break the back of the CRT here let's just talk quickly about safety obviously on the inside of this machine we have a CRT 12,000 volts we have a power supply here Main's voltage the real danger is the power supply here if you have a plugged in turned on we're talking stuff that can be possibly lethal if you do the wrong thing the 12,000 volts on the CRT would just give you a really bad shock this particular computer has been turned off for months and months and months so there is no charge in here at all so if you're unsure unplug your computer set it aside for a month then you can go work on it and feel a little safer about not getting a shock now if all you need to do is for instance get to the motherboard which on the bottom of this thing you can generally ignore these scary areas just pull the neck board off like I did here tuck that out of the way and then we have to get the motherboard out of here so what you have to do is uh someone's already unscrewed this bracket for the hard drive so are just going to pull that out how nice they even left the screws in there very nice of them what we need to do is we need to unplug this connector that goes down from the power supply down to the motherboard cuz we want to take take a look at how the motherboard looks so you got to kind of reach down and there is a clip on there and you just rock it side to side while you're pushing on that clip right there and then that pulls off and that's why you want to take this neck board off CU if it was in position you could very easily pull up and bump it and then that would that would be the end of your CRT so besides the power cable that uh goes to the motherboard and there was one here for the hard drive there is a floppy Drive ribbon cable as well so you just pull that out and with the computer on its face you might want to use a blanket or something so you don't eventually scratch it you have to pull up on the motherboard just a little bit and there are some notches over here and once you pull it up enough it lines up with these notches and you just angle the motherboard out and there is one connector here I'm sorry I'm not showing it but it is the speaker connector there and there it is there is the motherboard the Macintosh SE motherboard a nice honest good Macintosh wellb built and reliable there's processor direct slot here are four Sim slots that can accommodate up to 4 megabytes of ram they can break because the clips here are super fragile so just be careful of that we have an 8 MHz 68,000 and we do have a lithium battery which I am going to cut out of here toot Suite or Pronto or whatever you want to call it because that battery while this one hasn't leaked it is made by our friends at vaa it's not a rechargeable battery so it's a lithium battery it's not lithium ion and it's not nikad Nik cads are the ones that leak and destroy a lot of motherboards Amigas and stuff like that these can leak and they're very destructive when they do but it's much less likely that they do leak just for fun let's take a look and see what kind of charge we have here H what what 2.9 volts that's unbelievable this it freaking has a charge wow nonetheless I don't know when it's from so that goes into my bad battery thing here now when it comes to batteries on these older macintoshes they can run fine without a battery they really have no issues whatsoever the battery is used for storing the time the date and also the startup disc look at these like pieces of dust in here it's really kind of funny so the startup disc is if you have multiple hard drives on your Macintosh like say you have an internal hard drive and you have two external hard drives and you want to select which one you want to boot from when you power the machine on that particular setting is stored in the nonvolatile ram so without a battery that will get lost every time you reboot the machine but if you only have one internal hard drive and you don't care about the time and date because I mean who's using these things for productive work where you need an accurate time then you might just want to cut the battery out and leave it out but please keep in mind that it's a bit of a lottery if the battery has or has not leaked now I've had SE where the battery has leaked and it destroys the motherboard and a lot of the case as well and it's not something that's easily fixable there are some videos out there people tried to repair the boards but it's it's a nightmare so if you're looking to buy one of these things and there aren't pictures of the inside be very wary ask for a high resolution clear picture of the back of the case where the ports are and the screws there's one here and one here and also maybe the bottom of the case because the battery leakage often causes a bunch of corrosion and rust on the ports and it can leak into the bottom as well so it's often EV EV from the outside but not always so it is quite possible that you have a really pristine looking machine that has severe destruction on the inside but then from a capacitor standpoint all we have is these axial caps here and they're really good quality this thing was made in the 80s and they don't generally leak the date codes on some of these chips 1988 21st week 1988 31st week 1988 33rd week so you kind of get the picture that this thing is from the80s and uh that means that the parts on here are just really good quality things dusty but overall in really really good shape now with regards to the battery it is just a lithium battery it means it does not charge so you can actually just install a CR 2032 holder and you can say stick it onto one of these chips over here just put wires there to those pins it's a really simple job actually and those crer 232s last quite a while in here and the good thing is they're very very very unlikely to leak I'm I've heard they can leak but as much looking as I've done I've never found a picture with any kind of leakage from a 2032 that caused actual destruction I've seen pictures of some that have kind of bulged and had a little bit of crust around them but nothing like the cylinder battery that was in this machine which can totally destroy things so I'm going to say that there's really nothing more to do for this particular board there's a good chance that this just works perfectly and the only upgrade I might want to do is replace this crappy 1 Meg Ram here with 1 Meg Sim so we get a total of 4 megab and yeah I mean this thing should work so let's turn our attention over to the chassis let's see how that thing looks okay so looking at the chassis here we can see right away that we are dealing with the Sony version of the power supply I've never had any issues with Reas or anything inside of these or leaky caps I do know people who have had to recap them and or said they needed to be recapped but I've had lots of sees come through the basement and I have never had a single issue with these power supplies so your mileage may vary but that's just my experience you can see the date code though here 9th week of 1988 now right here is the floppy drive for the computer it's a little bit of dust there there is a single screw on the bottom side that that pops out and then you can slide this whole thing out I have some videos on my channel which I'll link to down below about how to service these disc drives there are other people who also show you how to service them they're pretty reliable the biggest issue with them is the automated ejector mechanism causes them to get a bit gummed up so there's a bunch of lubrication in them that starts to become solid and it just doesn't really work that well when you stick a disc in there and then on top of that there's a plastic eject gear that also generally degrades and falls apart so then they won't eject anymore and that means you have to use a paperclip to get the floppy disc out of there luckily there are sellers on eBay now that sell those jet gears pretty cheaply they're resin printed I think and they work quite well I've used them plenty of times in fact I think I'm all out of them and I need to order another set but they're inexpensive and it's a quick reliable fix for these disc drives so the general gist is if the drive is not working because it's all gummed up you're just going to have to remove it from the computer and clean up all that grease that's in there and potentially fix that gear in fact I'm going to say that 100% of these machines are going to need a new gear if it's working now it's just going to fail very soon now this particular computer seems to be in pretty nice shape and let's take this uh scrap disc here and pop it in here uh it kind of went in with a clunk but not as much of a clunk as I would like so I'm going to say that this drive definitely is going to need the old cleaning of the grease and all that stuff and I'm not going to cover that on this video because uh there's another video about that anyways and the thing is the Mac SE and all these classic Macs can work fine without a disc drive you can even have it unplugged and the Machine will work perfectly and in fact you can plug a floppy drive into the outside or external port on the back of the machine and it will work as well so if you have something like a floppy emu it's an emulator for floppy drives for Macintosh that will work perfectly and you can just use that or the other thing is you could just use a scuzzy disc emulator and skip the floppy Drive stuff Al together because writing these 800k floppy discs is a bit of a pain on these machines and you need special stuff to even do that so what I'm going to do is I'm going to use this paperclip here to try to extricate this disc there we go oh dear so what just happened is it actually the disc is sort of half out of the drive it ejected and then it tried to take it back in while the drive wasn't fully out the disc wasn't out I mean so there it is you just have to kind of rep push the paperclip in the hole so there's one other issue that does crop up on these machines and also Macintosh pluses and I made a video about a Mac plus repair in the past where the only thing that was wrong with it is what I'm about to say is probably going to need fixing on this machine what happens on the analog board which is the part here that does the driving of the CRT is you get bad solder joints and bad connections on things like the deflection yoke which is this part right here and that's this rainbow cable that goes onto the board that can often have issues and you can also have issues on this main cable here that comes from the motherboard and goes up to the board so you get crack solder joints there as well so reflowing those can generally fix most issues with Macintosh SE now when I was growing up we actually had a Macintosh SE and it was like the family computer and that thing I still have that exact machine it's the only retro computer I still have and that had these exact issues I'd be using the machine and like the image would kind of get wavy and get Squishy and move around and and if you like jiggled cables inside you know it would change and stuff and I think the deflection yolk connection that went onto the board here was overheating because it had a really bad connection and it was sort of melting and so I reflo all those solder joints and that fixed all the problems and to this day that machine now works perfectly again no issues whatsoever I've not replaced a single component there well other than the hard drive which did die cuz those original 20 meg hard drives like the one that's was in this machine at 20 SC super unreliable drives but other than that all the other components are original and totally work so that's actually the one thing I'm going to actually do to this machine other than just plug everything back in and turn it on and what we need to do is we have to gain access to the backside of this plastic cover right here now what Apple did is they used these little I don't know pushin things here to hold this thing down so you can't just lift this up very easily on older macintoshes they actually use like double-sided tape and you just peel it up but on the Mac SE it's nice because they use these black things here and you can pop them out now the issue is with these and here's one right here is to pop it out you have to push a tool into it on this side that's fine for this one but there are some that are like way in here and they're just not really reachable not without removing this entire board so I'm going to use this little pick tool here and I'm going to pop this one out just to demonstrate the way they work so you push like that and you see there it kind of pushed out and then you can just pull the whole thing out now it looks like there's another one right here which you can actually get to from this side as well I know you can't really see it but there it is and actually the one that's down here you can also get to and the reason why I'm doing it this way is I'm just trying to show that you don't really have to take this board out so that one is out there and I think now I can actually just peel this all back yeah we can actually access all the solder joints so we can do the work here without actually having to remove this entire thing now removing it is not that hard there's a couple screws right here and then it just pops out but you're going to need to unplug the connections from the CRT like the high voltage anode and all that stuff and if you're not so sure about doing that then this is a good alternative so looking at the board here I'm going to say that most of this looks like it's great but these four wires here that's the connection that goes to the the deflection yolk these often have issues they carry a lot of current so they get hot and they can crack and the other issue or place that you have an issue is right here which is the connector that goes to the motherboard this one here is another connector and this one goes to the neck board so it's probably worth flowing this one this one these four pins and this goes to the hard drive is the Molex connector for the hard drive I think that's going to be fine and actually this is another connector here this is what goes to the Sony power supply which is on the other side of this PCB right here it's in a metal box so probably just doing all of these connectors is probably a good idea this right here is actually a chip it's not a connector so it's nothing to do there and then right here is a flyback Transformer and it's worth doing these joints as well I'm just going to use some vice grips attached to the plastic here to just bend it out of the way here so it's it gives me a clear working space wh the vice grip was just shifting there have my soldering iron warmed up and let's just get to work oh and I can see there's a crack right there on that one so yep just sort of heat it all up Reflow it and you just go down the line it's not harmful to do this work in other words it's not going to hurt anything so it's not like you need to validate that it is cracked before you try to Reflow it I just recommend you do this Reflow work uh whenever you have one of these machines out because it only takes you a minute and it's just going to help Ensure long-term reliability this one is being a bit more difficult because there's a giant ground plane on it this one here has a crack on it as well now when these have cracks what can happen is you can just get intermittent things intermittent low voltage or high voltage low voltage you know geometry issues on the CRT you can lose your video signal I mean there just all sorts of things like that that can happen and this just happens because over time the solder connections warm up and they cool off and warm up and cool off and it can cause this exact cracking issue just make sure while you're doing this that you don't cause any kind of shorts like you don't Bridge anything okay so I've done the reflowing on all the nectar now I'm just going to give this a once over and just look with my eyes just to see if I see anything out of the ordinary any kind of cracks or anything this machine is in such good shape I mean it's dirty but it has obviously low hours on it so I really don't think there's any issues on there so I'm just making sure that it all looks good and um yep there's a little blob aad there I must have caused that so just clean that stuff off with my finger I think we're all good to go on this this looks good now you could also think about reflowing these solder joints right here I have had some machines usually on the Mac pluses where there are some cracks this is the connector that goes to the analog board you know what it's out let's Heat this up again I'll just do it while we're here I don't see any issues these these connections look really good all right that is done and now I would say the only thing left to do is just give it a little inspection just look for anything that's out of the ordinary like you want to make sure nothing's bent and shorting itself no traces look like they're ripped or cut again this machine is in super good shape I don't know what this line is right here is this like hot glue or something I don't know some kind of glue doesn't easily come off though so I'm just going to leave it it doesn't look like it's going to cause any kind of issues yeah everything looks good on this for getting the motherboard back in you just have to connect the speaker up I you don't have to but you can connect the speaker up like so and then notice these notches are on this side here those are the ones that have to kind of slide past these things so this is the side here that edges in to the side of the chassis kind of like a hinge like that and then it just sort of Pops in you can see those notches went right through there and the motherboard slides down and we don't need to reconnect this floppy drive we can just leave that out of the way but I definitely need to connect up the power supply and the video cable here to the motherboard we will need to put this neck board back on and the neck board looks like it's in really good shape so we just sort of Wiggle that on just like that so that's in place and believe it or not this machine is actually ready for some testing at this point so I'm going to do a little prep work here I'm just going to get this plugged into the mains let's make sure this is in the off position plug that in like so before I turn it on though I'm going to take this hard drive connector and I'm going to connect my multimeter up because I want to just see if we getting some good voltage rails on this thing the one that's really important is the 5volt rail and that's because that's what drives all the digital electronics on the board here 12 volts is used for the floppy drive and the CRT stuff we want to make sure 5 volts is good and not like at 10 volts or something because that would surely end everything on this motherboard now one way to power this thing up without the motherboard is you have to put a load on the power supply so you need to connect up some kind of load resistors to simulate having the motherboard there and then that would kind of give you a good indication if you were getting a good solid by vol the thing is a lot of people aren't just going to have a bunch of load resistors or electronic load sitting around for testing so if you're trying to work on one of these at home this is probably the best thing you can do you need to get yourself a multimeter and just connect that up to the 5vt rail here which I think is the red wire and then you turn this thing on here we go 5.07 volts that looks good we heard the the chime which was the right sound I think high voltage is running so let's uh get that out of here and just turning the machine around and look at that it's dirty but it's working so reliable so so reliable so it does appear that this thing even though it doesn't look like it's been used that much because it's very clean on the inside dirty on the outside I think the CRT pretty worn out now things do look very sharp and that's cool so let's try tweak on some settings and see if we can improve how things look here a little bit so on the side of the machine here we have four controls that are adjustable you have a width coil and you're going to need a special tool like a plastic tool like this to do that adjustment it's a metal slug inside of a coil and you don't want to stick something metal in there to turn it this is the correct tool for that so that's width height is just a normal potentiometer so a little insulated flat blade screwdriver works there we have sub brightness which we can hopefully correct this dim screen with that and we have a focus control the width actually looks okay so I'm not even really going to touch that for making adjustments on the other things I'm going to use this which is a little ceramic flat blade screwdriver I got a set of these from AliExpress for a few dollars years ago and I like them because it's ceramic which means it's completely non-conductive and means I can stick it in things here and even if there's potentially some high voltages there it keeps my hands away from it so first let's do the brightness control I obviously turned it down a little bit and you can see that there is some adjustability it's quite a lot of adjustability actually now the screen is maxed out right now so that's as bright as it gets I'm going to turn it down from Max to say there and I'm going to turn this up until that looks like a good amount of brightness for you know not fully turned up but still more Headroom is available and that's good because it can get brighter but of course it blooms a little bit when you turn it up more but at a normal level like that it's actually quite good now definitely we need some more height so I'm going to go into the height control here and look around and there we go now we have some additional height that doesn't look so bad now and then the last control to adjust is focus and it's actually nice to have this checkerboard dot pattern here at the boot screen because you want to get the focus set up where it's as sharp as possible so it's kind of fuzzy now you won't be able to see that in the camera maybe if I zoom in a little bit here you can see it a bit better but you just want to get it set where the middle and the edges are about as sharp as you can get now unfortunately you can get to a point where it's sharper here than it is in the middle and vice versa so you have to sort of balance the difference a little bit now I can tell this CRT I think is a little worn out h no you know it's not so bad actually I was going to say it's blooming a little bit which means it's fuzzier than it should be but that looks quite good it really it really does so I think this this computer has proved that it's reliable and it deserves a little bit of cleaning so I'm just going to get it with some Windex here just to I mean I could have done this I could have done this sooner to make it a little easier to do the focus adjustment but underneath the grime is a really good looking CRT yeah that looks awesome that looks that looks really great I'll just hit the rest of this here as well while I'm at it it is so grimy I don't know what happened to this thing it has a little bit of a damp musty smell to it too so even though it doesn't look like it has any corrosion on the inside obviously was stored in a a wet and damp environment now this video series is not going to be about making these computers look perfect because there are plenty of other videos out there for that type of restoration work I just wanted to get these computers actually working and well this Mac SC has sort of proved oops I just turned that up while while I was cleaning there the Mac SE has proved that as I suspected you don't really have to do much to make these computers work in fact I might not have had to do anything in fact I might not have had to do anything the stuff that I fixed which was reflowing those solder joints Mainely removing the battery might not have even been an issue with this machine that's amazing it just it looks freaking great and if we bump the computer right here just to see if there's any kind of like cutting out or geometry changes nothing it looks freaking fantastic let's power this off and I'm just going to power back on in a moment here let it cool down for a sec there we go that's completely normal for Macintosh SC we saw a line there then the vertical starts a little bit of garbage on the screen it clears the memory and then you get here to the flashing disc Mark so I am quite confident now that I don't need to do any further work on the analog board so I'm going to put these little plastic plugs back in probably recommend unplugging the power before you do that but all you have to do is keep it the little plug pulled out hold it like that push it through the hole and then once it's in the hole then you just push the clip in and that sort of spreads the plastic on the other side and that holds this plastic on for good I'm just reassembling this and the little bag that was inside with the screws actually has the four case screws which is excellent so I've reinstalled the hard drive bracket I reconnected the floppy drive I'm just going to take this little bag with these two extra screws which I think were from the hard drive and I'm just going to tuck them in here that way whoever goes to put another hard drive in this thing in the future if they ever do well they'll actually have the original screws so a little plastic Shield back on o and I just noticed there is a little break in the case right here I bet you when someone put the back cover on they kind of wedged it into this corner here and it looks like has actually caused a little bit of damage there it would be fixable but it would take a bit more time than I have here for this video so for now I think I'm just going to put a little piece of tape over this the tape is mainly just to hold that little piece in place so that it doesn't break off and uh go and get missing because it would be easy to repair in the future if you had that piece but not if it's missing I gave the back cover a little bit of a just a quick and dirty clean just so it wasn't so filthy and look at that that just slid on there without any issue when I got this thing the back cover wouldn't really go on all the way it had a gap and stuff and I assume that was just cuz something was out of position inside or whatever but now it just went right back on for reinstalling the screws I have my unreasonably long screwdriver here which is good because I can get down in there for the ones in the handle so these black screws here these are the fine metal screws these ones go in the back here through the motherboard ears and the other two screws they're silver they go down into the two holes that are right up here and it's good to do that thing where you go backwards with the screwdriver until you hear a click once you do it sort of seed into the old threads and then you turn it and get it into position and unfortunately this standoff must be broken because this just turns forever and doesn't actually tighten down but you know what that's actually not that big of a deal the one screw in the top is plenty strong you don't really need both of them up there all right the computer is all back together so it's time for some testing we already know this thing works I did plug in a mouse and keyboard off to the side here and for the lack of hard drive inside I'm going to be using this this is the miniature version of the Blue scuzzy version two so it's got a Raspberry Pi Pico inside the difference between this one and the regular one is this connects to the computer or whatever computer you're testing through a 25 pin scuzzy connector it is self- powerered directly from the scuzi bus almost all computers provide 5volt termination power over the scuzi bus the only one that doesn't I think is a Mac plus but every other computer I've ever used that had a 25 pain connector like this including the Amiga will just power something like this directly up right off the bus on the side here it has a Micro SD card slot so I have an SD card in there that I've already prepared it has one of my images that I've been using for a long time for scuzi emulators and it does have a USB connection on the side just in case it does not power up off the bus you can power it up off the USB connecting it to a macse is as easy as just connecting this right to the scuzzy connector and that's it you're done you don't have to plug any power into this thing it will just work right off the machine I want to give a shout out to to Joe over at Joe's computer museum for setting this into the basement just turning the machine on he sent in both the miniature version there and the fullsize version and I've used that full-size version on a couple videos already uh depends on when this one comes out if you've already seen those or not but this is the first time I'm using the mini one in a video I did already prepare it off camera though and tested it on another machine just to make sure that it works I didn't want to have that be a big failure point right now I wanted to make sure the scuzzy works on this thing and not figure out if the blue scuzzy works and and there we go it's booting up I configured this with system 6 which is a perfect system to run on a Mac SE like this in fact is my personal opinion that system 6 is the best OS to run on the Macintosh SE or really any of the 8 MHz or 7.8 megahertz macintoshes later versions of the systems do work on this but they are slow this machine's already slow enough you don't want to slow it down with like a over complex system with multitasking all sorts of stuff that just makes the computer chug I remember back in the day when I was a kid using a macse that when I had System 7 on there I used to get frustrated actually with how slow it was and system 6 is slow like just moving this window here it's pretty sluggish but if you drag this off here and then bring it back watch how slowly it redraws everything it's it's not fast and if we open up the control panel kind of chugs yeah anyways let's see if things are are working here yeah sound we already know the Sound Works actually we heard it beep when we turned it on let's hear some of those digitized sounds this thing supports monkey boing yeah there we go I brought up scuzzy probe here and there it is it's configured as dis one and it says awesome blue scuzzy I edited the inii file on the blue scuzzy so that it would change the vendor and product ID to something that I wanted now let's check out the system here see how much me memory wow we only have 2 megabytes of ram that is surprising that is a supported Ram configuration for the macse but you get it by putting two one Meg Sims in there there were four memory modules in this computer which means that we have a problem I guess those are 1meg memory modules in there so someone did try to update this computer or upgrade it to four Megs but one of them has a bad contact or is bad that or one or two of them that is resulting in it only seeing half the memory so I guess I'm going to have have to crack this open to try to fix that problem but it's actually not all bad because I realized I forgot to put the scuzzy cable back inside and I'd like to keep this in there with the hard drive bracket which is inside the computer for when a hard drive gets installed this thing you don't have to go looking around for a scuzzy cable so let's shut this thing down and crack it open again with the motherboard out absolutely without a doubt these are 1 Megabyte memory modules I just looked at these and assume they were 256k each so I luckily have a bunch of other 1 megab memory modules so I'm just going to swap all four of the out and I'll just put them in the untested pile for future testing with the ram tester now I mentioned earlier in the video that these slots are very fragile so you have to be very careful getting these out and I can see that this one's already bent over here so this one is not really held in properly if you put too much stress on these slots it will break them and then the memory modules won't be held into the me the motherboard properly you only want to bend the tab as far as necessary to release the memory module so I actually kind of recommend that you use a tool like this so you can actually see it when you're using your thumbs you can't really look at the clips that you're pushing on so you can't see if you're pushing them too far so with the little tool you can just push it the right amount this one was also only held in with one clip the clip's not broken on the other side here it just was bent over to the side and it's still bent cuz it's been like that for who knows how many years but with the tool you can kind of Bend one side first like that and then do the other side and there we go no clips were harmed in the removal of those memory modules okay well I think I might actually see the problem here with what was going on there looks like the jumper was set incorrectly there's a 2/4 setting and a 1 Megabyte setting and it was set to the 1 Megabyte setting I don't exactly know what happens if you install four Megs and then you have it on the wrong setting but perhaps it does that where you only see 2 megabytes either way I don't fully test these kind of memory modules I don't really like these so I'm just going to put some new ones in of the lower profile variety and we'll go from there now in case you're asking or wondering why 4 megabytes is the maximum memory configuration on these Macs because this 68,000 actually supports 16 megab of memory for whatever reason Apple's memory map that they picked on the original Macintosh only allocate 4 megab of ram throughout the entire memory map the rest of the map is used up for like IO and ROMs and other things and unfortunately with the glue Logic on the motherboard which is in this IC on this particular one or on the older Max was a bunch of discrete logic it only can map 4 megabytes of memory so you cannot install larger memory modules in here and try to get additional RAM 4 megabytes is the hard limit and if you install four Meg Sims into here it will ignore them and it will use them strictly as 1 Megabyte modules question of getting these back in here without breaking anything there we go that was good good you want to make sure that the modules oh I just realized these are four mag modules I just noticed the four written on there so that would be a waste if I accidentally left these in here so now I got to get these out of here and put extra stress on these very fragile connectors all right try number two these are all tested and they are 1 Megabyte modules they are not 4 megabyte modules it would be absolutely silly to leave 4 modules in here because they won't be used a and it's not like they're the most common memory modules around so that would be a big waste this should work at four Megs now oh and also once I switch the jumper over to 4 megabytes the machine is back together I didn't even test it I'm just believing in my knowledge of the way this works that this computer should work and should have 4 megabytes okay system is booted up are we going to have four Megs fingers are crossed two Meg EGS again really all right I bet you there were people who are screaming at the screen who know the Macintosh better than me I looked up this article here and it says it's going to be hard to read to upgrade to 4 megabytes remove the Sims The 256k Sims install one Meg Sims if you have a resistor motherboard set the resistors if you have the jumper remove the jumper do not set the jumper because if you do you get two megabytes H that's super unintuitive I knowledge my knowledge failed me okay all right we are back and third time's a charm because we now have four Megs of ram I did actually end up putting back two of these larger sticks in there but I realized the reason why those little Clips were bent these are actually too tall to be put in these machines the fact that these are regular through hold ships means that they don't stack close enough together and two of the slots hold these fine but when you try to stack the next one in it actually pushes up against the other module and you can't can't clip it in properly and that is exactly the way these were installed in this machine which was improper so I put two of these in there and then I put two of those low profile ones in there which are much thinner and they clip in perfectly and as we can see that little combo of RAM and removing the jumper results in the four mags of ram let's oh no no no no boy oh boy I was about to run a game and the Machine crashed okay well that pretty much tells me that the two sticks that I did put in there which were the SK hyx ones are not compatible with this machine so here we go a fourth time luckily I didn't put the screws back in this time so it'll be quicker to take it apart fourth times a charm fifth times a charm I actually don't really remember at this point I put four identical memory modules totally different ones into here I just took out all that original memory that in here and as you can see we're running the crystal Quest demo here this is my stress test for these types of macintoshes seems to be working without any issues it's not crashing any longer it's just seemingly working so my assumption is my assumption what happened was that some of this memory was bad because even when I was swapping out the other modules the other two it was still crashing it was hard to know whether it was this memory that was the problem or it was the memory I put in that was the problem but since the ram I put in was tested it is my assumption that it is this memory that has an issue and maybe that's why it was set to 2 megabytes perhaps that was the problem here is this thing was crashing and they set that jumper to two Megs and then that made the whole system work I don't know either way I'm not throwing this memory out I'm just going to put it in my two test memory bag and we'll find out at some point in the future if the problem EX exist here or was with one of those other sticks all right so this computer does seem to be working now so I'm going to put it back together for the hopeful final time finally incidentally there are no broken standoffs at the front here it's just that one of these is stripped out I don't remember which one it is now but if you put the screw in there it just sort of turns forever so with a little JB Weld or epoxy or whatever that would be fixable at some point in the future but for now it's fine with just three screws holding the case on and just like that the Macintosh SE is fully reassembled and fully working with the maximum RAM configuration the only thing left to do on this machine would be a little bit of cleaning a little bit of retr Brite and a service on this floppy drive plus perhaps an internal scuzzy drive although using this awesome mini external one is a really good solution because it's transportable to other machines so doesn't get locked inside here and it works really really well as I predicted at the beginning of this episode this machine I said it was most likely to work and yeah sure enough it pretty much Works other than the weird Ram thing that was going on that maybe was just the jumper and perhaps the ram was bad I don't know I think this thing would have worked even without me reflowing those solder joints that was just sort of insurance for future longevity of this machine well I think before I end this episode why don't we grab the Macintosh classic next put that on the bench and let's just survey what that thing looks like on the inside I'm convinced it's probably going to look pretty ugly but maybe I'm wrong and the thing will just work let me grab it next all right just a quick look at the classic it's yellow it's a little beat up it's not as dirty as the SE was at the beginning of the episode on the left side of the machine there's actually a built-in reset and interrupt switch interrupt is sort of like the non-maskable interrupt button hitting control restore on the commodor 64 it's kind of like that equivalent this is optional on the SE there's a little button that you stick on the side of the machine those always get broken and lost it's nice it's just buil built into the case here although one of the buttons is missing I'm not sure which one it is one works the other one you can't really push so this got hit at some point and broken other side of the machine it's just yellow and a little dingy all a little bit of white stuff at the top I don't know what that is the back of the machine not a whole lot to report the one difference on this of course is it doesn't have any expandability like on the Macintosh se but it does have this trap door here you might think that's some kind of expansion slot but it's not if I pop that off whoa it went flying there these are controls for the analog board so you can actually make adjustments to the CRT on the outside of the case without having to open it so that's that's kind of a nicity actually it would have been nice if Apple labeled these but they didn't so you have to do a little bit of Google searching online then I think someone has a diagram that you can follow to make those adjustments but it's going to have very similar adjustments to what we did on the SE with a width coil a height control there's also a sub brightness and a focus control one difference on the classic versus the SE is instead of having a brightness knob on the front of the machine the classic actually has software control brightness which is kind of cool in that a screen saver can actually turn the brightness down as a way to save the screen but you can also move a slider inside the control panel to turn the brightness up or down I don't really know why they did away with the old knob on the front there was really nothing wrong with that but to that end they actually added an extra control here which is kind of like a a sub brightness bias for that automatic brightness control now if we look at the ports on this classic they are essentially identical to what's on the Macintosh SE except it only has one apple desktop bus Port but it does have floppy scuzzy printer modem and apple talk and audio but you might be noticing that something is very wrong here the motherboard is all completely out of whack and just sort of wedged in there now almost certainly this thing had its hard drive taken out and I guess when the back cover got put on it was just slammed on there and that happened that's not great it also does have the screws on there so I guess the person who took the hard drive out sort of slammed the cover on and then just forc the screws back on even if the motherboard was all out of whack like that it's pretty horrible actually when you think about it look as soon as I took the bottom screws out the Gap appeared here because it relieved the pressure on the poor motherboard oh dear there's also loose pieces on the inside undoubtedly plastic bits are broken from when the cover got forced on now one thing about the classic is to get the back cover off it can be a little tricky because it often gets very stuck on the top side here so even though the screws are out of the top it is just not giving up and you can kind of pull on it and make a little bit of Headway but you just have to kind of put this thing down and just kind of work it shake it even that doesn't really come away cuz you see what's happening here it's just hinging up looks like someone just actually used a screwdriver in there which is not ideal now one thing I sometimes try to do is you just sort of do this it's a little violent but you kind of hit it like that and there we go that that released it I'm just going to pull the neck board off like I we did on the SE so we can take all this stuff out of here and on the Macintosh classic it can have this optional Ram Board here so this expands it's a 2 me of Ram with the onboard memory and then you can add two additional memory modules for a total of four Megs just like on the Macintosh Plus and SE let's see here's the motherboard I don't think it's ruined or anything it's just um yeah it's just a little bit curved a little bit bent it has a battery that has not leaked and just like I thought definitely lots of evidence of leaking caps so all these surface mount caps have leaked it kind of has this wet look on the motherboard you can kind of see around the Caps that's just yeah you can see the leakage also what's really weird is what is this do that come out across in the camera there's this little part here is this metal uh it looks like metal that was actually stuck in between a couple of pins on the on the motherboard it wasn't soldered down this is almost like a piece of solder or something I don't know very weird so I can tell right off the bat though the motherboard is going to need to have a recap full cleaning and inspection to make sure that we don't have any traces that have been eaten Away by the leaking electrolyte from the Caps besides this I'm going to say the computer inside is in pretty good shape it's nice that the Ram Board is here because we can get up to 4 megabytes of memory with that I don't see a lot of problems in here I don't think this computer was used a whole lot hard drive was removed D and we don't have the hard drive bracket anymore so that's kind of annoying the hard drive slots in on top of the floppy drive just like it did on the Macintosh SE with two screws to hold it in here luckily if you're putting a blue scuzzy in this thing just use some double-sided tape or velcro to hold the blue scuzzy in right there and it did have the scuzzy cable that was left behind inside so that's nice now when it comes to Leaky caps on this board they're down in this area right here and when it leaks and if the machine is sitting on its feet like as normal you actually start to see the electrolyte kind of a sticky Brown substance all along the bottom edge here and around this area all the way around to the speaker now if the machine were stored on a its side or in some other configuration it you know could leak in a different way but I'm going to say this one doesn't show any signs of leakage one difference as well I didn't really mention this uh the SE had a multiv voltage power supply this one does not it is currently set for 120 volts I'm not sure if there's a jumper to move to switch to 240 but just keep that in mind if you're trying to buy one of these from the US to import into a country that's 240 volts that could be a problem for you this was a little piece of plastic that was floating around in there definitely something broke off the case when it was forced back together well just for fun I put the motherboard back in I've reconnected the power supply let's power this thing up and see what happens I think people want to know what happens with a leaky cap Macintosh classic will it power on or will it not the reason why I want to show this powered on is hey we're going to be able to figure out if the power SP is working properly and the motherboard is working before we recap it but also I want to show that just because you have a picture of one of these working on say an eBay listing doesn't mean that it doesn't need to have its caps done because this motherboard 100% does need that done power supply board that's a little bit debatable because it's not leaking right now but unfortunately I see that the brown nion caps on there are the ones that seem to leak on all the other ones so it's probably going to leak on these as well let's see what happens here we go hey well yep it works but there's no audio so I heard the disc drive seek we obviously have picture but there we go it's actually working but there was no chime now that's because those caps are part of the audio circuitry as well and the fact that they are leaking means that they're basically open and for the audio circuitry it passes the audio through the capacitors and when they're open well it's as if they're removed from the board so you get no sound the fact that geometry is bad that's just an adjustment we can fix on there but it's working so I'm going to end this episode here and we know now that in the second episode this machine at the minimum is going to need a recap on the motherboard but the fact is it's booting up so that means it's good none of the traces are eaten under those caps so we should quickly be able to recap that and maybe what I'll do in the second episode is we'll remove a couple of those leak prone nions on this analog board here and we'll see if they're leaking underneath they just haven't like dumped their guts on the board might be a good test and then because this is going to be a pretty quick repair for this particular computer I'm going to try to get to the Mac classic 2 in that second episode as well so I hope you enjoyed this episode getting that Mac SE working and then poking around in this classic a little bit if you did thumbs up but if you didn't you know what to do huge thanks to my patrons their names are scrolling side the screen they get early access to videos other cool behind the scenes stuff and yeah yeah subscribe all the usual YouTube junk and I guess that's going to be that so stay healthy stay safe and I will see you next time [Music] bye-bye
