This Xbox Series X HDMI port is destroyed, here's how to fix it

welcome back today I'm working on an Xbox series X with the damaged HDMI port this one was likely moved around while the cables were still connected I'll show you how to disassemble the device and replace the HDMI port using a heat gun and soldering iron the side of the HDMI port has been blown out the pins are ripped and bent and the tray itself is missing plastic this one probably won't work even at weird angles and I wouldn't recommend trying the console has two Torx screws that hold the rear panel in place one is hidden under this rounded sticker at the very bottom the other is behind the informational sticker it seems counterintuitive that you have to break the information sticker in order to open the console but here we are a thin pry tool can be slipped into the bottom of the back panel and lift it up to remove it it has plastic Clips at the top that hold it in place a small plastic clip on the inside keeps the base plate from detaching you'll need to shim something under it to release the plate and it should spin off easily three green screws at the bottom hold the main internals of the console followed by one black screw to your right foreign back to the top we've got two more black Torx screws holding the fan shroud in then a very large wide topped screw in the center which holds the fan to the main board after some encouragement the four pin fan connector should release and the entire assembly can be pulled out of the housing towards the bottom is the disk drive shroud this keeps the vibrations down while your Call of Duty disc revolves around the central Hub at speeds that a small Honda Civic can only dream of achieving just kidding it's only a few thousand RPM the disk drive has two connectors one Sata cable and one power connector that both need to be removed then the drive can be pulled out of the housing the main board has two data ribbons and latching connectors that need to be disconnected before we lift this gaming engine out the first step to getting the PCB filling out of this aluminum sandwich is taking off the seat belt this acts like a gasket for the main fan and forces air to only travel through the enormous heatsink fins foreign [Music] three more Torx screws holding the Wi-Fi and Bluetooth board in place this needs to come out so the connector isn't violently sheared off when we open the sandwich up to what I'm going to be calling the top the side with the power supply we need to remove the three screws that hold the AC plug to the frame next all the black screws below the power supply need to be removed additionally all longer silver screws need to be removed the power supply cable is routed in a clip that needs to be opened the black screws that hold the power supply can be left where they are finally the Silver Shield can be pulled away and set to the side under there we find the main ribbon which is the first sign of this being a new revision of the series X instead of being a sort of zif connector style they've switched to a reinforced version with a plastic guide this is firmly connected [Music] now the entire top half of this aluminum sandwich can be pulled off and set to the side revealing that sweet PCB filling on the inside and take a look at that repair techs will really enjoy this revision when they find that the silly metal clip is now completely absent though all the solder points are still tinned four large screws hold this massive x-shaped tension bar against the board forcing a very tight contact between the CPU and copper heatsink plate be careful removing the first two or three as they are under a fair amount of pressure now the main board can be removed from the heatsink though it may still be a bit stuck thanks to a large amount of thermal transmissive Play-Doh underneath as well as a pretty crunchy pile of thermal paste first I'll flip the board over to the underside of the HDMI port and inject a few drops of flux and I'll use the soldering iron to melt some leaded solder into the feet of the port which is currently filled with the factory standard unleaded solder I do this because unleaded solder has a much higher melting temperature and by mixing the two I can lower the overall melting point when I go to remove it next I'll take some nice Yellow Cap on tape and cover this tiny component behind the HDMI port I haven't had one fly away yet but it's better to be safer than sorry some flux will be added to the pins the last thing I want to do is rip some pads off the board and make more work for myself with hot air flowing out of the nozzle at 453 Celsius this can still take a measure so of heating Microsoft has worked hard to make this board super efficient at spreading heat even the drilled holes in the ground lines are reminiscent of drill brake rotors on a sports car it's important to keep heat moving and not concentrate it in one spot to avoid damaging the layers of the PCB too much can cause thermal shock and cause the board to split internally at that point the repair is over and not in a good way finally with the sobbing in a liquid state the port can be pulled off the board using some soldering Wick I'll soak up all the old solder off the data pads and this is where things can get fun removing the solder from the feet can be a real pain of course you could leave it just heat gun it until it melts and RAM the port into the spot pressing the wick against it just isn't working at this point it's personal using a short length cut at a sharp angle I'll heat gun the feet until they melt and insert the wick directly into the hole perfect now insert the replacement HDMI port into the open spot on the board and cover the pins with some flux there are a couple ways to do this you could always add solder to the pads before putting the port in then press the pins down to the pads and stick them together with the solder acting like glue I prefer to press the pin down to the empty pad then feed solder into it this allows the solder to stick to the pad and completely envelop the pin fusing them together very tightly like wrapping a nice cozy metal blanket around the PIN I'll do this for each pin one by one bridging is always a risk but with WIC nearby I'm feeling pretty invincible using a pair of super pointy tweezers I'll poke and push each pin to make sure it's fully seated to the board satisfy that everything is connected I'll flip the board over and press my iron against the feet then feed solder into the hole to secure it to the board I'll usually use a bit more than necessary just to increase the strength of the port the next issue at hand is this disgusting thermal paste from the factory it is somehow already completely dry and crusty and nowhere near as efficient as it could be I'll vacuum the old chunks out of the way then using some isopropyl alcohol I'll clean the rest some fresh moist thermal paste will get centered over the contact plate [Music] now for some mild reassembly I'll need to replace and connect only the essentials to power this on and test I need to make sure that the HDMI port is working before going all out rebuilding this Xbox sure enough we have display this one is working well now I can continue the process of reassembly replacing Parts in the reverse order that I removed them from a repair standpoint I think this revision of the console is a great Improvement even though only two small things have changed it's still a solid step towards repairability this console isn't really any harder or easier to repair than its predecessor but definitely seems more intimidating because of the strange shapes inside if you followed this as a guide made it this far I hope your repair went well if you're just watching this for fun or maybe it's your first time here consider hitting that subscribe button down below or let me know what you thought in the comments thanks a ton for watching come check out some of the weirder stuff I do over on Instagram and Tick Tock and I'll see you in the next one foreign

Channel: Taptic Digital

Views: 76,994

Keywords: xbox, series x, xbox one, hdmi port, port replacement, board repair, microsoldering, soldering, xbox hdmi fix, xbox no display, console repair, english, guide, teardown, walkthrough, howto

Id: wuz5YKXay0A

Length: 8min 15sec (495 seconds)

Published: Mon Nov 21 2022