They wanted 100 dollars. I 3D printed it for 9 cents.

this is a vintage time clock it works but it has one major problem we did our first punch in here we kept punching up this card went through a second card went through a third card and look at the difference between the first punch and the last punch the ink faded so much between the first punch and the last punch i figured out why it's doing this so let's open this thing up so i can show you so here's how this thing works you insert the card into the slot and where the last hole was punched that triggers a little switch that switch pulls this solenoid down and that causes a bunch of mechanical things to happen at once so the first thing that happens is this plate gets pushed forward at the same time this little hole punch gets pushed forward which punches the next hole in your card in fact if i pull this down hard enough i can probably do it manually there we go got one there see if i can do it again so those things happen this plate is what actually stamps and that plate hits against the stamp here's the stamp here and it runs against an ink ribbon now there's another thing that happens when that solenoid gets triggered and it's right here so the solenoid gets triggered i'm pushing it down with my finger and this lever here is what's supposed to advance the tape ribbon but as you can see each time i push down the solenoid nothing happens the tape ribbon is staying exactly where it is it looks like there's something that's supposed to be advancing the tape but it's not there we can actually take out this whole tape cartridge assembly this whole thing comes out so you can see right there where we stamped like 30 or 40 times i'm sure if you kept doing that you could damage this ink tape this knob is the manual tape advancement it pulls the tape through what i'm assuming is an ink reservoir and recharges the same tape over and over and over but the mechanism inside the time clock doesn't touch this it's this thing that gets triggered when the solenoid is switched on and as you can see there's nothing that interacts between this lever and the actual cartridge itself this whole cartridge comes out this thing is replaceable you can buy these and this is part of the time clock now if we look here you can almost see a shadow like there's something circular that used to be here but isn't anymore full disclosure i emailed the company that made this time clock to see if they could help me figure out why my ink ribbon wasn't advancing the response was that this piece was missing components and that i could buy a new one from them for 95 now i would rather not spend 95 on something that i'm pretty sure i can fix so i went back and watched the single video i could find on youtube about the inner workings of this time clock it's by curious mark i'll link it in the description and i found three seconds in a 20 minute video where you can see the piece that's supposed to go in here and i'm pretty sure i can 3d print it so when the solenoid is triggered it clicks this lever forward and then it immediately goes back so i'm pretty sure what we need is a gear that goes here fits into these two teeth and interfaces with this hole in the ink ribbon cartridge we need to take some measurements so i'm going to use my dial calipers and try to get the diameter of this shadow 1.175 inches now our gear is going to seat inside this hole right here so we need to know the diameter of that hole one really important thing for our design is that the teeth need to be oriented so that this gear spins counterclockwise and there's an arrow on the cartridge here to remind us of that we also need to know the depth of this slot and the depth finder on our calipers are a really great way to figure that out we just know the diameter of this hole and then there are four little teeth in here that we need to grab onto so we need to figure out the thickness of those notches 0.021 inches so i'm in fusion360 and i'm going to start by importing all of my dimensions as user parameters so i'll start with the shadow diameter as i wrote it down the diameter of that shadow circle we saw 1.175 inches then we have the diameter of the mounting hole i'm going to make a parameter called tooth depth and this is just a guess for right now but we'll start with 0.05 inches we have that as a parameter so we can change it easily later on the depth of the slot slot diameter tab thickness and finally the gear thickness click ok so we'll make a new sketch on the x y plane and let's start just by making the circle that represents our gear so we'll make that the shadow diameter which is kind of a ridiculous name for a parameter but we're rolling with it right click extrude by gear thickness then we can make a new sketch on top of that so this will be slot diameter we can extrude that by slot depth and then while we're working on this piece we can also make the slots that will go into those teeth so a new sketch on top of there and i'll just draw some lines across the quadrants now i'll take one line and offset it to the left by tab thickness divided by two and then i'll offset it the other way minus tab thickness divided by two so i'll select all the areas that i wanna cut out i'm just holding shift so i can select multiple areas right click extrude all right so that will interface with the ink ribbon cartridge and then we can make the piece in the bottom that will slot into the metal piece so we'll extrude this all right and the only thing left to do is the trickiest part which i conveniently saved for last which is actually making the gear so let's create a new sketch on top of our major circle and the biggest unknown we're flying with right now is how many teeth we actually have to put in here and i don't think it matters too much because the swing of this gear isn't defined by the number of teeth it's defined by the distance that this travels so i'm just going to try something that looks okay and that seems 3d printable might as well just get to that minimum viable product as quickly as possible i guessed a tooth depth of 0.05 i've no idea if that's correct or not but we'll find out very shortly so i'm going to make a second circle to our tooth depth this thing needs to rotate counterclockwise so that means our teeth need to be oriented this way we've done really well with parameters so far and i want to make my teeth spacing a parameter as well so i'm going to make a new parameter called tooth angle set it to something random like 5 degrees for now and i'll change my unit to degrees so i'll draw a line from the center to the outer circle hit tab to lock that in and change that to tooth angle but because of the way the angles work i need to change it to 90 minus tooth angle hit enter and then i can draw a line from here to here and now if we go and modify that parameter change the tooth angle to something like 10 degrees for example it updates automatically and i think 10 degrees will be better anyway so we'll leave that so i'm going to select this line as well as this line and create a circular pattern center point will be the center of our circle and i don't really know how many will fill up the circle completely so i'm just going to keep pumping the quantity up until we have the full circle or at least close to it maybe 30 looking more like 40 40 is too many i think it's 35 we'll hit it that looks pretty good hit ok and finally we can just extrude out everything we don't want hold shift and just select all these profiles it's steps like these that end up taking the most amount of time in fusion and then i'm going to right click extrude and extrude through to the back which will cut out all of those areas click ok and there we go we have the first prototype of our piece let's go to 3d print see what it looks like so we had to print this with support material because we have the little interface piece on the bottom all right moment of truth let's see if this works so step one does the pin fit in the hole the diameter looks right but that definitely needs to be made deeper and then does our ratcheting mechanism work let's see oh that's working i think we need to make those teeth more dramatic i think the tips of the teeth should come out further and the valley should go in further because it's it's slipping a little bit on the backstroke so we need more engagement but that is functional and then final thing to check does this piece fit into our ink cartridge now since those slots are so small the printer was barely able to print them the pla just kind of melted into it a bit so i know we have to make those slots wider i think it's just too tight of a fit so if we set up our model correctly we should be able to make all of those changes just by editing our parameters so the first one we want to change is that mounting hole thickness so let's just double that to 0.1 that change happened instantly so we're good there next thing we want to change is the width of these slots so if we change the tab thickness parameter let's up that to 0.03 you can see those get bigger instantly you know what let's put those up to 0.04 all right the other thing we want to change is the depth of the teeth so let's make the teeth come out further and for that we can change the shadow diameter we just need to bring it out by hair so let's increase that by 10 000 of an inch we also want to increase the tooth depth that was 0.05 before let's maybe change it to 0.07 all right there we go there is our v2 prusa slicer does this cool thing where if you input the cost of a spool of filament it tells you the cost of your finished piece this is nine cents to print compared to a 95 dollar replacement piece if this works i'm going to be so stoked all right our v2 is printed all right let's see that is pretty perfect look at that that looks pretty perfect see how it fits in the cartridge these slots look a lot more reasonable in this one oh right in there no problem it's engaging the mechanism and does it all work together let's go that is perfect all right let's put in the clock and see if it all works together so we can put this back in here so there's our 3d printed gear let's put a punch card in and see if it works [Music] happened so fast did it work oh yep it's going i can see it yes there we go it's it happened so fast it's hard to see all right so there's the ribbon from this angle you should be able to see it move [Music] yeah look at that you can see that black part moving to the left lovely and look at this all of our stamps look perfect they're all dark we have no fading over time anymore let's go i cannot believe they wanted to charge me 95 for something that i could 3d print for 9 cents if you want to see what i'm going to do with this clock make sure to subscribe to this channel i have a really fun idea for this and if you would like to directly support this channel with the added benefit of some exclusive behind the scenes content check out my patreon page which i will link in the description one of the benefits i'm doing is a private instagram account just for patrons but for everyone thank you so much for watching and i will see you in the next video

Channel: Morley Kert

Views: 2,273,511

Keywords: fusion 360, modelling, modeling, 3D, 3D printing, make, maker, making, functional, print, autodesk, diy, digital fabrication, prusa, follow, do it yourself, Fusion360, organization, 3D printed, design, fusion, morely, kurt, morly, morelykert, morleykert, designer, workshop, mechanism, clock, gizmo, mechanical, one, hundred, dollars, expensive, frugal, gear, ratchet, rack, teeth, pawl, click, gadget, clever, solution, fabricate, satisfying, clicky, analog, analogue, time, hack, save, money

Id: CbMun0C1DBQ

Length: 13min 27sec (807 seconds)

Published: Wed Apr 20 2022