The Ultimate Guide to PETG 3D Printing #PETG #3dPrinting

i recently started using petg in my 3d printing with my prusa mark 3s and initially i ran into a lot of problems that i'm sure some of you have experienced yourselves i wanted to kind of go through the steps i went through to resolve those problems and where i'm at now in the printing process i started off i was designing these what i think are pretty cool orchid pots and when i first started printing them i was using pla which is poly polylactic acid i believe it's cornstarch-based material it's super easy to work with it's one of the more more common things that you use in 3d printing you can do a bunch of different cool materials like wood in fills metal in fills carbon fiber things like that so it's really flexible the downsides to it are that it has a fairly low melting point so if you have stuff that's going to be out in the sun or needs to be inside of a hot car for example it might melt or warp it also discolors over time in the sun for my specific use case since i'm building orchid pots that need to be in warm places moisture sun things like that i wanted something that would hold its shape and not degrade over time as much as possible so in comes petg which stands for polyethylene [Music] pterophalate with a glycol modifier yeah i don't know why i don't remember that it just rolls off the tongue so pet g is often used in water bottles plastic bottles for stuff so it's cool because it's usually food safe it can be semi-transparent which can't really get out of pla it also has a much higher melting point and it's typically less brittle also typically less brutal than pla and we'll talk about why that last part is kind of important here so i started printing with it and it's a little bit different you have higher printing temperatures 230 to 250 degrees celsius you have a higher bed temp usually you know 70 to i've seen people go up to 110 degrees celsius it also sticks a lot more so if you have a brass nozzle on your printer the pet g can actually stick to the nozzle and it causes globbing i'll show you how to get up get over that the first layer is typically a little bit thicker so you need to go a little bit higher on your z-axis to get that nice first layer and just a few other random things like that and if you don't get all of that right what ends up happening is what you see over here this big pile of mistakes a pile of sadness as i like to call it uh this is an example of one so this is one of the water bases actually this is the orchid pot itself i can't even tell because it's so mangled you can see this this bottom infill piece there wasn't very good adhesion there on this bridge and also it's super brittle like i could probably yeah check that out i just popped through it and i better this will just rip right off so it's just shattering and you can tell like the layer adhesion is just awful and so when my first couple prints came out like this here's another example i did with a transparent pet g and again it just i mean it's super brittle it just falls apart and crumbles so when i did this i was like what the heck i thought petg was supposed to be this more flexible durable thing that i was gonna have all these magical properties that would help with my orchid pots if it didn't seem to be the case these are the the water trays after manufacturing i was like all right cool so i'll do a couple flex tests because customers are gonna you know there you go they'll pop things and test it out but um just how brittle that is is insane and these rings these outer rings just snapped right off and they just shatter there's almost no flex to them they're just brittle brittle brittle that sucks so i i was on a mission you can see these imperfections in the first layer and then on the top infill layers it was actually this is with three layers of infill and you can still see the hopefully you can see that on the camera but you can still see the infill underneath with three layers on top of it so that was garbage i hated it so how do we get from that to this this has a little bit of water in it still because i was testing it you can see this this first layer flawless i mean this is this is literally the best first layer i've printed out of any material also the top layer i mean it's just completely absolutely flawless it's also see i'm flexing it like pretty hard and it's flexible this is what i want so how did i get from that brittle crap to this the first thing i did is really spend some time tuning the z-axis on the machine typically i was at 1.04 for pla so it was pretty close to the bed i had to i had it moved down quite a bit so it smushed that first layer and so i moved this down to well actually let's check it let's see what the live z is oh actually it won't do it since we're not on the first layer anymore but i think it's it's around point eight so it's significantly higher than it was before and i'll show you some stuff in slicer that made all of the difference in the world all right let's take a look at these slicer settings now the first thing i should mention is that i'm using amazon basics pet g for my pla i was using proof cement which i think is absolutely fantastic and i had heard some good things about amazon basics pet g and after getting it tuned and set up right i think i'm pretty happy with it so the first thing i did is in slicer i went and i selected generic p-e-t that says my my base profile that i used for this whole thing and then i went in and i turned on for configuration preferences i turned on advanced modes so that i could go in and modify some of the really advanced settings for each thing so i'm printing at 0.3 millimeter which is the draft mark iii profile by default but i have modified something so for the first print layer i do that at 0.3 millimeters as well and i think just laying down a slightly thicker layer of pet g across the bottom on the first layer it really just helps with not only adhesion but getting down a nice base layer that everything else can stick to over the the quality which slows down the speed of your slicing but really that doesn't matter much to me i selected a few things avoid crossing perimeters this just helps to prevent some of the oozing and stringing that you see sometimes with some of the pet g detect thin walls detect bridging perimeters this just helps with the flow when you're doing an overhang and it allows it to enable the fan appropriately one of the big things though is i did enable under seam position by default its nearest which what that means is it takes the the seam and it puts it to the nearest starting point to where the original seam was and so you end up with this line and let me kind of show you what i mean here's my first couple prints that had seaming set to nearest and you can see there's this seam that's kind of jagged across the top of here and then you can also see it vertically on here now what i did is i changed it from nearest over to random and if you look at this one there's absolutely no seam anywhere and the reason for that is that every time it lays down a new layer it picks a random starting point and so you get that that one kind of uniform line scattered throughout the entire print on every single layer so you don't really get that same look for what i'm building here this works the best but you need to check out some some different things here like if you have something that has a sharp corner or an inner corner it can hide the seam inside of there depending on the setting you use for infill i selected infill only where needed i don't think i really changed anything else here other than i'm using grid for the fill pattern and then speed so for the the first layer speed i dropped that down to 20 although i think i might be able to bump that back up a little bit the acceleration i stuck it's still at a thousand millimeters per second so that hasn't really changed but given how perfect my first layer is maybe i'll just stick with this but i think i could bump this back up to like 25 30 maybe even higher i don't know under filament setting so here's where i made a few different changes so for the first layer i'm doing 230 degrees celsius and then for the bed i'm doing 95 pet g likes to stick to the bed and so if you have a hotter bed it's going to stick even better so for that adhesion i bump it up to 95 and then for all the other layers i drop it down to 90 and i raise the extrusion temperature to 235 like i said so far that seems to work really well for cooling i actually made quite a few changes here that i think helped so keep fan always on i unchecked so i left that off i enabled the auto cooling and this is where the system kind of automatically depending on how long a layer is going to take or if it's a bridging layer etc etc it will change the fan speed and then on the fan speed settings i had this at 30 percent minimum and 50 maximum but i dropped the minimum down to zero because there are some cases where you just don't need to run the fan and if it doesn't need to be run it doesn't need to run for bridges i put that at fifty percent but that seems to be fine and then i disable the fan for the first three layers i don't think i changed anything on here but for the filament overrides and honestly i think this probably had the biggest impact on how this whole thing works is i did retract on layer change and wipe while retracting with petg what typically happens when you're printing is it goes back and forth across all the lines and it's continuously extruding what ends up happening is you get globs that attract to the brass nozzle gets stuck there and then you get these every few layers or every once in a while you get this big glob of pet g that just sticks to the middle of a layer your next layer goes over it and you've got these weird lumps and bumps and it's just an ugly mess so by retracting between layers what it does is it sucks the filament up retracts it out of the nozzle slightly between layers and then it pushes it back down that's so you don't get oozing between those two layers and then the wipe just again it's another setting that helps with that to prevent that oozing and those globs when you're doing the additional layers as you can see this just finished printing while we were over there talking about the settings so i'm going to pop this off and again there are no globs and it's pretty darn perfect i mean it's a great looking model is good flexibility it doesn't feel like the whole thing's just gonna fall apart anytime there's an issue and that's really what we're after right

Channel: ALL YOUR TECH 3D Printing

Views: 92,184

Keywords: prusa mk3s printing, prusa mk3s first layer calibration, how to 3d print petg, petg filament vs pla, petg filament strength test, petg filament settings, petg filament stringing, petg filament temperature resistance, petg filament drying temperature, petg filament ender 3 pro, how to 3d print with petg, prusa slicer settings petg, prusaslicer, prusa slicer tutorial, prusaslicer 2.1, 3d printing, prusa, Prusa MK3S PETG filament settings, 3d printing petg filament settings

Id: suhtzLzg42I

Length: 11min 50sec (710 seconds)

Published: Mon Dec 09 2019