The Ultimate Guide to Bias Binding - Part 1

[Music] hi everyone thanks for children hope you know well whenever you are aunt whatever you're up to and this video which is part one of a two-part series I want to give you the full lowdown on by spending and applying onto your handmade garments so this first video is gonna be like an introduction and then I'm also just gonna explain to you how you would make your own and then part two is gonna be about how to actually apply it onto your clothes so bias binding gets used most commonly or necklines and arm holes of your handmade garments and as important at those of those curved edges those parts of your garments that you prevent structure and stability to them because they're curved they can stretch out so if you were to just simply hem the neckline of a garment or hand that at the armhole if it was a sleeveless sleeveless top see and just like you had the you know the bottom of a dress or a top it would basically just straight shape because the shape of the fabric is cut into a curve so I should put it on and take off and wash it and weight it and moving it it would stretch out and it can sag and a flop forward and not look very good so you put bias binding on it together bit of structure and stability and to hold it in place or if your garment if your pattern does see to use by expanding you gotta do it you can't sneak out without once I'm afraid to put to put it simply bias binding as just the strip of fabric that is cut out on the base now the bias means that as a 45 degree angle to the direction of threads that have woven the fabric so once you find yourself in the fabric you know that the threads run parallel to that and they run at 90 degrees so the bias is at 45 degree angle and cutting the fabric and this way it means that it has pliability and stretch I sort of got two definite strips of fabric here to just show you the difference less multi-coloured flour one is cut on straight green and when I just put tension on it you can see I mean it's got a little bit of again but it doesn't really stretch that much because it's cutting the street green and it's all the fabric we have this one here that's pink flow anyone this as bias pending its then will forward bias binding and you can see when I pull on it that it's got much more dense and much more stretch so it's more pliable and you can manipulate it around the curves of your garment so you can either buy bias binding ready-made or you can make your own so I've got a few examples of ready-made bias binding here quite commonly you can get it and it's made from poly cotton so that's what we used two ones here are made from and I think that I don't know whether they just put some sort of like coating on it to make it a little better Steph just saw holds that folded shape but it can be a little bit stiffer than you know see bending that you make on your door that's made from cotton more and like this one and it does soften once you once you wash it and you know you use it and you don't need to pre wash it so I've put some on this garment here and the watches are double gauze and I put just the sort of normal ready-made to poly cotton by expanding on it and I've worn less talk Lourdes and washed it and it has softened out a lot over time so it does kind of soften a bit and but there may just be some instances where you actually want to make your own and that that's that's gonna be a lot more beneficial to the look of your garment so on these other tops that I've got here so unless one then the bending is exposed and you can see that if I had made use ready-made by expanding in that one it just wouldn't really look that good and because it's quite up quite a wide strip then you end up seeing and on this one because it's just like a nice really nice sort of pattern to Cottle on and it may be that you can't get a color to match it sort then it's nice to make your own and or it may just be that the fabrics are that more special and it just deserves that but of a extra care and attention so and this one here as a laboratory cotton one and I just wanted to do the beautiful fabric justice then we just wanted to make my own FS of lightweight fabric like of aeschylus or ariane then it's good to have back bending this and the same type of fabric as that because the the ready-made poly cotton one can just be a little bit too stiff for that that kind of fabric and so you can buy buy spendin single folders or double folded so the two that I've got here are single fold it and that just means that they're they're another two folds there which is a bit confusing but it's just folded like once they either say to come together it makes you know it makes the stretch double folded it's just that exactly that but folded in half again so you would buy it and it would look like that if you bought it and it looks like that you press it open you'd have single fold it so they gain a viola same thing really and in the shop we have two to Commonwealth so we've got an 18 millimeter which is this one and the 18 millimeters is the distance between these two folds here so it's not that's not when it's opened out that's not where there the measurement comes from is when it's folded and this one is 25 I most commonly used they're 18 millimeters for garments just because I think it works better and better but you know make depend on the context recently we have gotten stock of Italia Brunei double fold bias binding means out of the Oh vesicles fabric which is just amazing it's sorta nice to be able to have that because when a fabric is really lightweight like vesicles and reona sort of seen before it's good to have been thing that matches that so and these ones are absolutely beautiful and obviously if you were using their seam Italianate fabric perfect but you could use it with other like you know fabrics that are similar to that you could use that bending with other fabrics that aren't Italian fabrics on Tennessee and so so yeah it's great to finally have them and because before by Spain has just always been caught and really their loner or the poly cotton as I was showing you before but if you just say that that you don't want to make your own and then there's two sort of main ways that you could do that so your pattern may come with a pattern piece that's for a bias trip and that may tell you the wet so it's supposed to be and the length as well and because it's just the the long narrow strapping is supposed to be cut on there but it's to be cut on the bias as I was seen before the way that the mark the green line now is probably gonna mean that the green line symbol and the patterns really quite short which makes it hard to line up with the selvage when you've got such a short length so and even if my pattern does come with a specific bias strip I will usually always use my own method offending the bias myself so I've got one of these quilting rulers here and I don't actually do that much clothing but I do use that free little hook for Jess making claiming this but it's got the 45 degree angle laid on it so what you need to do is just laying that and 45 degree and enter keep it on the ruler up with the selvage on your fabric and then I like to use this Chico Lehner clover Chico later pin and pin marker because it's a little we all that dispenses the chalks almost gotten a sharp Blaine and then I just draw on my 45-degree angle so then I'd match my my bias strap up with that and so that's that's that's that's one way that you can get if you don't have one of those rulers the other thing that you can do is just cut a large square of paper and then fold it in half diagonally and that will give you the 45-degree angle to that gives you that sort of fresh length of your your bias strip and then depending on what you want the finished weather to be once it's all sort of sawn on then you can decide how wide you want this directive you just remembered and include your seam allowance as well so if you're gonna then meet your bias strip and to bias binding like those ready-made ones that I assured you then you can use this by spending maker and on the back of this packet it tells you the length to cut it out so if you're using lightweight fabric custody at 40 F medium weight fabric cut at 35 if you're not sure what wheat your fabric has or how it's going to work out antsy just cut it at 40 you can easily just trim a little bit office if it's to wait when it comes to it and then you've not cut it too narrow basically and so so yeah then you would know how wide your straps got to be and then I use my ruler what I have to translate it dentures because the ruler centers and then I just use my ruler to line up and it's that fresh line that I've drawn and then I'll draw my columns of my bias tape on to the fabric and then you can just cut that out if you need to join straps together to get the desired length that you need for your projects then you have to square the straps off so it's like they're a rectangle at the top get two of them put them right sides together and overlap them so we make a right angle and then just stitch diagonally across like this snap the seam allowance press open and then you've got your long base trip and it's important to do it this way because it means that seams on the diagonal and then the single stretch as well after you cut a few if you were to just seem a straight Lane like that that seam wouldn't get which make them cause problems when you're actually applying it so it's good to have the seam to be able to stretch as well so that's kind of the quicker way to make your own and then the other way that you can make it as to sort of build up a little bit of a store cover and use this continuous loop method so I'm going to talk you through how to do that now I usually start off by making a 50 centimeter square because it just generally it's you know a decent amount of bending so you get your 50 centimeter square of fabric and cuts in half diagonally so you've got these two sections and then you want to place one triangle on top of the other with rate saves facing and the two shorter its edges marching and then just offset the edges by one centimeter because this is going to be your seam allowance so then stitch them together press the seam open and open out and you have now got a rhomboid shape so what you're going to do on this shape know as to mark there this width of the strips that you want to have your of your binding and again I use my ruler unless Chico liner pin so you just draw all of them or and you can draw on to both sides of the fabric just so that you can always see it it makes it a little bit easier what you may find is that once you've drawn your worth you're all you're worth sore and you've got a bet at the end that doesn't fit into the denomination that you're doing it it was just like about extra that's either you know two smaller ends up into Becker whatever so you can just cut that off and then the other two diagonal edges here you're gonna press back one centimeter watches your seam allowance for the next stage so then what you're going to do is place the fabric gray st. facing up and bring the folded and pressed diagonal edges towards each other and you'll notice that the lanes that you marked on the fabric now line up vertically like this and then in the seam allowance you can see them going horizontally and it sort of forms columns next you have to move one pressed edge along by one column so you're offsetting it and let's make sure that you've got a continuous spiral or when you start cutting the fabric out so just make sure that the length on the seam allowances match up so next you're going to join the new seam so you pen this edge together and then you've got a statue long where that where that fool does here that seam allowance that you place that one centimeter so you stitch all the way along there and then you're ready to cut your spiral so you just follow their chalk markers that you put on and you'll just go around and round and round and round annually that with a back long length of base painting so you'll faint in some sections that there's a few seams close together that's just the way that it sort of times eight when you do it but if you want to make a lot of base bendin then it's a good way to do it rather than joy in individual strips but and it's kind of personal preference what to do and so once you've actually got your strip then to turn the end to the bending that's got folds at the side and you're going to use the bias binding maker that I showed you before you can do it just by pressing the edges back yourself but it can be harder to get that totally accurate so the base the base main dimitra's good for that so what you do is just feed the fabric with the wrong side facing up and you just feed that into the weight part at the back of the bias tandem maker sometimes you need a pen or a bit of scissors just sort of help it through and you'll see that as it comes through the bias plain to me car and it sort of folds back on itself and they needs to get your iron ready so I usually set up quite a long sort of run often on my ironing board it's okay bending light or flat and then get my iron ready so then you're just gonna cool this by Spain to Meeker along the land and lots of steam with nice hot iron as you go just to hold those forms in place you just do that all the way along and then you've got your single fold bias binding and if you are making a lot of stock of and you're not going to use it right away I would highly recommend then wrapping this Rome something because what you'll find is that if you just sort of leave it in a big bundle at a local kind of peel open and the creases won't steal and you've spent each is an iron and all and then all come though how come to me once which is why I'm telling you so just wrap it round something I've got some of these balls caught in real sweat your name quite nice and you just use a bit of a card or something it doesn't really matter what it's just you use something to wrap it around so that it holds those forms in place so I hope that's demystified some aspects of it and video too I'm gonna show you how to actually sort on to your garments so I shall see you for that next day and if you haven't subscribed to this video just remember is that subscribe so you don't ever miss out in the next one and alright I'll see you soon guys thanks bye [Music]

Channel: Lauren Guthrie

Views: 29,346

Rating: 4.9445472 out of 5

Keywords: sewing, dressmaking, tutorial

Id: hn077MsVhNI

Length: 14min 26sec (866 seconds)

Published: Wed May 23 2018