The Rise and Rise of Marine Serre

Marine Sarah has done what no other modern designer has been able to do perfected the art of the desirable monogram that's commercially very successful while still feeling exclusive so how did she get to the top of the industry at such a young age Marine sir as a company was technically founded in 2017 by Marine Ser herself with her boyfriend pippenfant Eden who would later go on to be CEO and with help from Marine says sister but to tell you the full story let's start with her University collections plural technically her first collection was in 2015 and was her fourth year presentation at University The Collection is good it's just not really Marine share good yet and we don't see any brand signifiers in the collection the early stages are there like this silhouette comes back in Future collections as do the pleating and of course stretch undergarments but it's not developed fully quite yet I know I'm being a bit harsh on this collection even though it is a very good collection it's just the comparison between this collection and the following collection is so extreme that it makes this collection seem a little bit Half Baked this following collection Autumn winter 17 was called radical call for love and is said to fuse 19th century European garments with Arabic luxurious garments with sportswear cuts and sportswear Aesthetics it's just a ridiculously strong collection and still looks fashionable I'm relevant now almost five and a half years later featuring motifs and identifiers that are now completely synonymous with the brand like skin tight undershirts the moon print and sporty Couture Silhouettes I don't quite know how to express these sheer impact this collection had in comparison to most graduate collections but I think the fact that it was internationally stocked is very telling especially because they got stocked by extremely well respected stores like Dover Street Market Essence Nordstrom and in Paris a very well respected store named a broken arm where the collection sold out completely The Collection was shortlisted for the year first of all and nominated for both the undone prize for emerging designers and the lvmh price for young designers the latter of which she actually won for her graduate collection beating out influential nominees Martine Rose Yunnan Ambush and Molly Goddard naturally this setup Marine have an outstanding career in fashion easily scoring internships with Sarah Burton Alexander McQueen Machi blasia Maison marciela and Ralph Simmons at Dior which then ultimately led her to secure a position as a junior designer at Balenciaga which would go on to fund her debut collection as a solo designer in Auto winter 18 but just to backtrack a little bit she did actually have a capsule collection for spring summer 18 while doing her internships which mostly comprised of retail pieces and does feature all of the brand identifiers mentioned before though importantly it was the first inclusion of bags for the brand it's just that the Autumn winter 18 collection is often considered to be the debut so that's what I will be respecting in this video the Autumn winter 18 collection doubled down on the moon logo print for the brand in a way that really increased desirability while allowing the brand to stay cool in the eyes of fashion enthusiasts the moon symbol is inspired simply because it's one of the oldest symbols in history introduced to her through her Islamic background resonating and staying with Maureen through her interest in fashion due to its timelessness and ability to evolve with the time that it exists in in fact much like the moon print being introduced from harrisonic background a common source of inspiration is often her own daily life which has persisted in her work through the years of Designing allowing a political Edge to her work Marine frequently and persistently is seen making statements on topics that influence her directly like practicality and safety as seen with these biker masks inspired by herself cycling around Paris while being dissatisfied with the air quality or with her views on over consumption and sustainability which she is probably best known for within the industry these statements on over consumption and sustainability are seen as early as this Autumn winter 18 collection where she introduces four different lines all under the mainline brand none of which diffusion wines they were named named the green line which was dedicated to being solidly from recycled materials the red line which was for Red Carpet Demi Couture the Gold Line which was for everyday Demi Couture and the white line which is pretty Porter all ready to wear there is also technically borderline which is underwear but it is a little bit different because it's underwear and I don't know when it was officially started it wasn't in this collection so I'm not covering it for this video but it does sell really well even to this day and arguably is the Brand's main cash cow of a product these four lines have gone on to evolve into being slightly different now for example by spring summer 2020 the green line was absorbed completely by the other three lines furthermore in any and all of these lines from the brand you can actually tell which pieces are 100 recycled as they feature a special regenerated tag which is on over 50 percent of everything that the whole brand produces but this is all getting ahead of ourselves as of this point in the timeline they have only just started with the four different categories of product offering as a way to express her opinions about over consumption so I'm going to take us back in the timeline to spring summer 19 and Autumn winter 19 which continue literally all of the themes I've mentioned so far the moon print skin tie tops sporty Couture recycled materials masks they're now also introducing menswear and children's wear in spring summer 19 and puffer materials in Autumn winter 19 which means that her core offering is really quite significant by this point and it's already one of the hottest and most respected new brands in the world from a young designer then spring summer 2020 is the first slight shift in martine's offering but it is expertly navigated the brand built a foundation that's very solid on which they can experiment with in a way that doesn't alienate their key audience which is blatant when looking at have ridiculously long stockist list for spring summer 2020 even after they did this shift which is most obvious in the reduction of the Moon print all the way back to the 24th look and after far back in the collection putting more emphasis on the recycled materials and silhouettes of the collection and interestingly this collection with all of the reduced key elements was one of Marine's most successful proving she could design expertly around a changing climate without relying on a logo or monogram to move product also interestingly about this collection is the addition of this Hood name The Sisterhood by Marine which returned in The Following season for Autumn winter 2020 as shown by Louis vision and Marine Ser here and something I find interesting that Mr prizon said is that truly obsessed designers self-reference without even realizing it he was actually referring to the jacket underneath as you can see but I think with the hands lowered it 2 visually is the moon symbol in the denim Fabric and it must have been in the puffer before it was deconstructed to two garments I think this speaks to the evolution of the Moon as a symbol AS mentioned by Marine earlier and evidence is how right she was about its pervasive malleability The Collection is absolutely fabulous and as I mentioned before it's the real absorption of the green line into making almost everything from the brand recycled so to have been able to incorporate that while not needing to compromise on the aesthetic is really commendably achieved here so much so that Marine finally won the andam prize which you may remember she was a finalist for for her graduation collection she said that the prize more so than helping grow the brand just helped them stay in business we all know that kovid was tough on hundreds and thousands of small Brands so it made me consider how relieving it must have been for her trying to run a company to have that boost right when they probably needed it most following that exceptional win spring summer 21 once again takes the brand for a trip the video for the show is truly the best she has ever produced and the collection itself pairs down the brand to their version of minimality that almost Harkens back to that spring summer 18 collection she did the one that quote unquote wasn't her debut the only one not to have watched on a catwalk which is such an interesting reference because this collection was her first since the debut collection that also wasn't on the catwalk due to the global crisis at the time it's so beautifully self-referential in a way that we've come to know from Irene and perfectly continues the business in spite of the pandemic meaning that the brand was extremely popular amongst fashionable people and had caught the eye of Zarina Akers who asked Maureen Sarah to make several custom pieces for her client Beyonce which she wore in her black is King documentary in the already music video obviously everything Beyonce does is news all over but black is King was huge and when it came out so was this video so the music video push Marine says brand to new heights of Fame and even saw searches rise 400 percent meaning that the moon print became the most popular design of the year although to be fair I'm referencing this article that was only written four days after the music video was released so I doubt the validity of the article even though I know that the print really was everywhere on social media at the time however in the midst of all of this success boyfriend turned CEO Pippin Van Eden decides to leave the company in September 2020 leaving Marine as the sole head of the company then in December 2020 just before the automated 21 show she debuted her only collaboration still to this date I believe with ASAP Rocky this collection in the promo shots I don't think looks too strong to be honest to me it feels more like ASAP than Marine but looking at the retail pieces themselves my initial reaction is definitely wrong and it's definitely definitely very clearly Marine Autumn winter 21 and spring summer 22 also released to huge audiences online they were easily accessible and really well received beautiful videos that included fashions that one would immediately be recognized by any Marine fan so Marine was now being watched by the whole world with this new fame meaning that her Autumn winter 22 collection was the most watched and highly anticipated collection the brand put out so far you probably don't need reminding but the last three collections were all in Corona days so that's why they've all been presented in video form but now Paris fashion week is pretty much all returned this collection automated 22 is the only show so far with almost none of the things that a customer would have come to think of from Marine Ser even the Monograms mentioned before are simply not there that I can see the logo was there in this diamond Jacquard just not the monogram that we've come to know instead though we have developments on Silhouettes and specific garments this skirt made of scarves was originally shown in Autumn winter 21 it's a bit hard to see on the catwalk but here is Marine holding it so it's definitely from this collection the Raglan sleeve jumper she's wearing is also from the Autumn winter 21 collection and returns as a silhouette in automated 22 as does The Sisterhood that I mentioned before from spring summer 21. so I would say this is probably the real separation for a new era for marine one very much with recycling at its core however that doesn't mean they are leaving behind the core offering by any means instead they've set up a base for retail that hopefully will bring in consistent sales with the undershure being the Cash Cow of course from which allows funding for development of her vision and time to produce the more intricate Red Line pieces for for the catwalk which she said in 2020 to not actually sell but are just great promotion for the brand and for what can be done with repurposed materials The Collection was well received overall though critics seem to say that it's removed from the Marine World as I mentioned before especially critics missed elements like denim especially because just a few months later she would release what I can only describe to be a process documentary with Dover Street Market that specifically focuses on denim for a whole section of the documentary critics also thought that they had seen this aesthetic from the brand before it was a bit similar to what they had seen so they would like something new which personally I disagree with but perhaps if it was in another textile or in another color it would have felt fresher and both myself and these critics who I'm directly referencing Callum Knight and Hetty Malik of show Studio would be satisfied and the criticism didn't quite end there because the general public also had some complaints Marine Ser had decided with all of this new exposure to invite the public to a weekend-long Exhibition at Lafayette anticipation that would show the process of how the team turned bulk purchased second-hand clothing into Couture but despite the venue being absolutely massive apparently there were cues outside of people that just couldn't get in which probably wouldn't have been a problem if Maureen hadn't literally just invited the public this criticism was clearly taken to Heart by the brand because upon their return in menswear week spring summer 23 the venue once again opened to the public was a huge expansive sporting venue as Vogue puts it it was in the spirit of her Brand's long established strives for inclusivity to want everyone to be able to see and experience the show as well as the clothes I don't really understand how that relates to the show being shown in menswear week to be honest even Vogue pointed out the strangeness of it being held on the menswear week instead of the women's wear week personally I think it may have been because more people would be able to attend a show that was at this distance to the other shows in the menswear week as opposed to the truly crammed women's wear week though it's not really a criticism I really loved this collection and I love this setting in regards to the setting I know truly nothing about sports but I can see that the collection was heavily inspired by the venue due to a good portion of the garments being sportswear or being paired with sporting accessories we also see The Return of denim we see The Return of the monogram although they do keep the diamond monogram much more at least until the final four looks which are all clad in the monogram I am happy to see all three present also interestingly she seems in this collection to have returned to the previous tonal color palette away from the brown tones into a much more welcoming palette of greens pinks blues and of course black and white this all basically lands us to today I'm really excited to see what is next for the brand and I'm not really sure when we're gonna see the next collection from her Marine Sarah has quite the following these days so she can really afford to show off season maybe in another menswear week like she did before thank you so much for watching this video make sure you subscribe and turn on the Bell to be notified of future videos or check out the videos on your screen or the full playlist of videos here for further viewing

Channel: understitch,

Views: 26,538

Keywords: marine serre, marine serre top, marine serre fashion show, moon print, beyonce, asap rocky fashion, beyonce black is king bodysuits, lvmh prize winner, fashion week, haute couture

Id: GKvmvwifGWY

Length: 16min 17sec (977 seconds)

Published: Sun Nov 06 2022